High CPU and GPU temps w/ no overclocking

I have a i7 920 @ 2.8 ghz, ati 4870 1gb, with 6 gigs of ram and I play skyrim with enbs and texture packs at around 30 fps, but I checked the temps of my cpu at 70-75 C and my video card at 70 to high 80's while under load. I have stock heatsinks and decent airflow I think, opened up my side panel under load and blew air into my system, video card temp dropped by like 10c from around 95c with the panel off but cpu temps didnt budge. As far as I know it's been playing like this for about a year or so.

Would getting a h100 corsair watercooler help drop my temps down to be able to overclock my cpu? I feel like the system is being bottle necked or otherwise restricted in performance due to this problem. What are some other solutions to get ride of these temps? I cleaned the cpu heatsink and case out about 3 weeks ago with compressed air btw.

(sorry if posted in wrong forum but I would really like to be able to overclock)
4 answers Last reply
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  1. from the processor alone yes, but you still need to deal with the video card. i do not like the H100 because it limits your ability to upgrade, try looking at the XSPC RX360 kit, it is a little more but, you can add a video card block to the loop with ease.
  2. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16894/ex-wat-222/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RX360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_w_Free_Dead-Water.html

    would this work in my computer (screenshots attached)? im really in need of lower gpu temps it seems, i dont even want to play games now because it goes up to 102c. im pretty novice at this sort of stuff so a less complicated solution is gonna be best for me, but i wanna get something ordered thats gonna help get the comp running normally.

  3. and if that is a reference design adding a block like this to that will complete the loop, minus fittings or barbs i don't like barbs but do what you like.


    if not reference get a universal GPU block and stick on ram sinks for the video card it works verry well with good case flow.
  4. Let's stop and look at this as this is an issue larger than upgrading your cooler options.

    Sounds like the issue doesn't have to do with the need for watercooling it has to do with case airflow (or lack thereof) or the CPU cooler and GPU card/cooler itself.

    Before you do anything, follow these steps to determine where the issue lies:

    1. Clean your case, blow out dust, dirt, etc from your CPU heatsink and remove the GPU and thoroughly blow it out with canned or compressed air. Removing it will allow you to blow air into and around the entire card and shroud.

    2. With the card installed and the side of the case off, run some benchmarks, or otherwise load the CPU and GPU by running Prime95, Intel Burn Test or other CPU load tests as well as 3dMark etc for GPU loading. Make a note of temps via logging of temp monitoring software such as RealTemp, CoreTemp, SpeedFan, etc.

    3. With the side of the case still off, get a large fan and blow on HIGH into the case. Rerun all benchmarks from before, noting temps. This will simulate a best case scenario that will determine if case airflow is an issue.

    If your temps remain relatively the same and are still high (70's C for CPU and 85C+ for GPU) then you might consider better cooling options.

    If your temps drop something like 10C difference or so, then you have a case airflow issue and that should be addressed as case airflow still impacts liquid/watercooling. Radiators need cool air to function, too.

    Depending on budget, there are some options you might want to consider, so maybe that's worth exploring. A Hyper 212+/Evo will run you less than $30-$40 for a CPU cooler that will perform very, very well for the cost. You can also remove the stock GPU cooler, clean it, clean the stock thermal paste and replace with new and thenreinstall the stock cooler and also see a decent temp decrease from that. There are many videos on YouTube on how to remove a video card heatsink and it's very simple to do.

    I'm all for watercooling, but let's stop and determine what is actually broken here before we assume using a bigger hammer is the best fix.
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