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New to Water Cooling, requesting help with build

Last response: in Overclocking
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January 6, 2013 5:06:07 PM

I'm currently planning out all the components for my new gaming rig. I'm quite certain I have worked out most of the key components for my build as follows:

Case - Azza Genesis 9000 (Black)
Motherboard - Asus Z77 Sabertooth
CPU - Intel i5-3570k
GPU - MSI HD7970 OC (R7970-2PMD3GD5/OC)
RAM - Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4 x 8GB) 1866 MHz (CMZ32GX3M4A1866C9)
PSU - Corsair AX850
Monitor - Asus PB278Q 27" LED 2560x1440

The SSD, HDD, ODD, Keyboard, Mouse, etc don't really matter at this point since this topic is about water cooling components.

I've been looking at using the XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Water Cooling Kit w/ RX360 Rev 2 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res
Kit includes:
Raystorm CPU Waterblock
Socket 2011, 1366 and 1156(1155, 775 Backplates)
Socket AM2 and AM3 Block Optional
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - w/ D5 Vario Pump
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
RX360 Radiator
Low Noise 120mm Fan x 3
120mm Fan Grill x 3
2M (6.5')' of Tubing, choice of colors/size
Compression Fittings x 6 choice of size/color
Thermal Paste

For CPU only, this kit would be overkill, but I'll be using it for both CPU & GPU. I've been looking at a few options for GPU waterblocks & have my eye on 2 options by Swiftech & 1 by XSPC.

Swiftech MCW82-7900 with 7970-HS (most likely with a SP120 fan on the HS)
or
Swiftech KOMODO-HD7970
or
XSPC Razor 7970 (New)

The cost difference between those options isn't a concern of mine. I'm concerned about cooling performance and compatibility with the rest of the water cooling loop/kit. Any opinions, suggestions, feedback would be appreciated.

Another thing that's been racking my brain is how to setup a drain in this layout. For fill, I'll be using a rotary 90 with a short tube connecting to a fill port coming right off the res, which will be tucked behind a removable 5.25" front panel. For an example of this, check out this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cseLyQzK_7I @ about 3:15.
a b K Overclocking
January 7, 2013 2:23:54 AM

Will you mount the radiator top or bottom.
That case looks very nice for a WC build.
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January 7, 2013 3:21:05 AM

I'll be using the R-ATX setup for the motherboard & mounting the rad at top.
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January 11, 2013 11:39:13 AM

Are you overclocking?

As far as I see....any of those GPU coolers would do you just fine. The differential between them is arguable.

As far as the drain goes, find the lowest spot in the loop, and put the drain there. You can use another 90, just as for the fill, with a short bit of hose and a stopper/plug. That makes it extremely easy to drain the loop when the time comes.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
January 12, 2013 2:04:36 PM

@ OP - seems you've done your research regarding the loop kits however there are some things I'd like to clear up. The Komodo is the same water block offered to EVGA cards dubbed the Hydrocopper editions. They are more restrictive than any other blocks available int eh market today(ofc they were as restrictive as the block were today). Komodo's are for AMD cards while the Hydocoppers are for Nvidia cards. Both also have a made by Swiftech insignia at the corner of the card. Tey are more for aesthetics but their temps seem bad compared to other full cover blocks.

The universal cooling options will mean that only the heatsink is swapped out while you can retain the cooling block. Since the holes of the block align the same for all gpu's its something you'll keep even after GPU revisions. A full cover block will warrant an entire cooling block setup.

For suggestions on full cover blocks, you could also look up:
EK
Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X
Koolance

*they also vary in aesthetics as do their underlying block design

That D5 unit kit will keep you happy for the foreseeable future. You can add more blocks(if you go for a dual/tri sli/crossfire setup) or more raddage as well(or both)

Remember no coolant, only distilled and killcoil/deadwater(which you'll get free with the kit if purchased from frozencpu) or both. Want color in your loop, use LED's/cathodes or colored tubing but not dye's (at least if you'd want to show off the rig for 15mins of fame then be my guest but for 15mins, 32+Hours of loop prepping and flushing[24hr leak test+additional time for flushing and draining] but thas a lil too much to endure).

There is another misconception that you can just bolt a watercooling kit and see amazing overclocking results, there are more factors involved when you're looking at an overclocked package from your rig.

Where you'll mount your rad is another thing to think about as temps will vary upon internal and external setups meaning less PITA for bleeding and hopefully less of a fan buzz since its drawing ambient air.

* for inspiration on your setup, might want to check out the build logs thread and the watercooling gallery...and you can also check out my works in my sig.

Hope these help you :) 

**if you haven't checked out the watercooling sticky, might want to check it before the parts arrive at your doorstep.
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a c 225 K Overclocking
January 12, 2013 3:05:28 PM

Xaero1369 said:
For CPU only, this kit would be overkill


As long as you have no intentions what so ever of overclocking the CPU!

If you'll be overclocking the CPU it is far from overkill and more than likely inadequate, if you have any intentions of stabilizing in the 4.5ghz range!

Xaero1369 said:
I'll be using it for both CPU & GPU. I've been looking at a few options for GPU waterblocks & have my eye on 2 options by Swiftech & 1 by XSPC.


ROFL :lol:  Get ready for a serious disappointing wake up call!

However if you have zero overclocking intentions, then you really do not need to water cool in the first place!

If you do have overclocking intentions, you need to rethink this setup because it is far from adequate, and definitely not overkill!

Most are clueless as to the heat the overclocked Ivy Bridge brings to the table, and just how much additional heat the GPU block adds to the loop.

Since I've been overclocking Sandy Bridge from the first day of ownership and the Ivy Bridge runs even hotter, you might want to rethink your setup intentions, and if not, best of luck to you!

Edit: Heat wise you may get better results staying away from a full coverage GPU block because it adds the heat of the VRs and Memory to the mix.

Also full coverage GPU water blocks are card specific, meaning it will not be transferable to an upgraded card, meaning you're stuck with it for the card application it fits period!

Trust me I have learned that one the hard way!

Nice case choice though!

I almost snagged one of those myself!
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 12, 2013 10:29:37 PM

In my opinion it would be fine for mild CPU overclocking but really depends how much OC and what thermal expectations OP has. Overclocked IB CPU and 7970 would be fine with an RX360 and mostly depending on fans. Suggest more rad space if highly overclocking CPU or GPU.

You'll really need to determine combined TDP at desired clock speeds and voltages to know what you'll need in the way of radiator space.

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