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2011 Reserator

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January 7, 2013 7:13:55 PM

Hi

I'm actually NOT interested in Overclocking, but this is the water cooling forum :)  I want to try to make my PC as quiet as possible, and still have decent temps.

I have a dual LGA2011 motherboard, but I'm only using 1 CPU at the moment

I have a LARGE server case with room for 2 120mm case fans; no hole on the top/side though.

I have an old Zahlman reserator 1 cooler, with a (mostly) blown pump.

I have a large Eheim pump I can attach externally. The PC will almost always stay on in 'sleep' mode so I really don't mind the pump going all day.

The only water block I have is the zm-wb2 ... I'm not sure if the die is large enough to cover the 2011 socket and I'd need to order new hold downs (I think I have a775 hold down though).

My aim here is for low noise, not so much overclocking.

Yea, I know, I do have an air cooler as a backup.

I've noticed new waterblocks are about 50-90 bucks, and Fry's has an H100 for sale for around 90. Seems like a no brainer to forget the Reserator (or use it on my HTPC which gets warm), and just go air or H100, maybe cutting a hole in the Au panel for a 220mm fan too.

Thoughts?

Again, the main goal is to keep everything quiet. I've been around since the first IBM PC and want to protect my hearing :) 

== John ==

More about : 2011 reserator

a c 324 K Overclocking
January 7, 2013 8:38:07 PM

I don't think there is socket 2011 support for the Reserator...nor would I recommend it. It was a pretty poor product and while I know it's something you currently have and want to use however one of the biggest issues is the pump (which you already are aware of) and the fact that it's aluminum design which is a big no-no in watercooling loops.
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a b K Overclocking
January 8, 2013 4:31:03 AM

I googled "Reserator" and it looks dangerous, you should just stick with a radiator. Also rubix_1011 said it contains aluminum which I'm not completely sure but I think it's very bad when you have anything copper in the loop.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
January 8, 2013 10:45:33 PM

The sticky mentions the ill effects of alchemy pertaining to copper and aluminium. The Reserator wasn't a poor product, it was a fail in the long line of horrible products that were invented by companies. Even if you found a hold down plate for the cpu/mobo, the loop would fall apart in a few cycles.

You really want silent?
1| check out the big coolers from aquacomputer - dubbed gigant
2| over rad and stick some low rpm fans on them
3| the setup I have now is far quieter compared to my last watercooling tryout. So your perception of silent will differ accordingly.
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January 8, 2013 11:18:10 PM

Thanks Lutfij

I did read the sticky. I ran the thing for several years, but I was using the Aluminum VGA blocks that came with it, which might explain my success.

RIght, I was looking at the H100, it's got a double radiator but I see the link you gave shows some quads.

The Gigant shows Aluminum fins? Ah - copper tubes. You'll still get electrolysis. My brother is an art conservator and goes through this all the time.

I always think these prices are funny as they are a lot more expensive than just going to an autoparts store and buying a full size radiator - got my Toyota's replaced for 100 bucks. If it'll cool a 3.0 liter V6 it should cool a Sandy Bridge E :)  (just kidding ... hose sizes would be interesting, and man would that thing be ugly).

Anyway, I'm building with an air breather right now, I figured this was a long shot.

== John ==
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a c 78 K Overclocking
January 9, 2013 12:21:19 AM

:)  joke noted, the aluminium fins are only stuck onto the copper tubes via smaller inner dia restriction, not soldering like conventional rads. I own an Aquacomputer Rad, the AMS - you'll also note the AMS build log in my sig. There are pictures of it that show no sign of soldering or any contact electrically or if were talking about liquid coming in to contact, non whatsoever. Similar to the heatpipes and fins assemble on a tower cooler.

True for that price you could get probably 7~8 rads :)  but they must be worth it? :sarcastic:  ... :/ 

If you're aiming at the H100 - save the cash and spend another $70 more and get an entry level watercooling kit :) 
* I've migrated over to the *real* deal and I'm really happy!!! The AMS build log will tell you why.
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