(Hopefully) Final Build System ~$1000

HI all,

After posting my first build, I've finally come to what I feel is is close to my final build. In my original post, I was debating whether to reuse some parts from my old system, but I've decided to build a brand new system with the future in mind. The old system will become a linux box I can play with and a memento to my first ever built pc :o .

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Sometimes this week BUDGET RANGE: (e.g.: 600-800) ~$1000 before rebates, Would like to stay below, but won't mind either if I go above a little for better quality/performance.

Casual/Light gaming (Dragon Age, Wow)
Photoshop/Lightroom/Web design - I have one question with this. My build is AMD. Could someone kindly show me an equivalent Intel Build? I'm asking as I've read that Intel > AMD when it comes to intensive photo-editing/video-editing activities. I assume I would only need to swap out the Mobo and CPU from my build below with Intel equivalent?
Watching Blu Ray/streaming netflix

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Peripherals (keyboard, mouse, monitor). Looking to dual-monitor in the near future, but this is not included in the budget right now. I also already have Window 7 64 pro.

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: I need to order from Amazon to take advantage of their Super Saver Shipping. With the system I've put together below, I have a total of $220.34 of savings by ordering from Amazon (Newegg is charging me $150 for shipping T_T as well as some of the parts from Amazon are cheaper and have similar rebates.) On top of that, the money I'm saving with shipping I figure I can use to get more ram or just save it for my dual monitor setup.

PARTS PREFERENCES: My first system was AMD, and so I am sticking to that CPU brand. With that said, I would be very thankful if someone could show me an alternative Intel setup comparable to my build and perhaps persuade me for Intel :) . I've chosen Asus mobo (from great past experience), but if there's one better (and can be found on Amazon and is more affordable), then I'lll definitely look into it.

Mobo: Asus M4A79XTD Evo 790x
Thermal Compound (Do I need this for OC?, will remove if its unneccesary) Arctic Silver 5
Media Card Reader (Need this for easy import of photos) : Sony MRW620
BluRay Player : Lite-On 8x Sata Blu-ray Combo Drive
HSF (Just picked up for OC as well, please let me know if this is overkill) : Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev.2
CPU : AMD Phenom II x4 965 BE 125w (On Amazon, this was about 15 bucks difference from the 955 BE. Is 15 bucks worth it?)
PSU : Corsair 750TX (Again, is this overkill? Just bought it in case my next system down the line is gonna be top of the line, needing more juice)
Case : Cooler Master CM690 II ATX Mid-Tower
HDD : Samsung F3 HD502HJ 500GB (Keep reading great reviews about this particular model)
MISSING : RAM. I can't find any of the better rams suggested on TH, etc on Amazon. I think I might have to buy this from Newegg. At least shipping won't go up to 150 though (just 15). Could someone please suggest memory for me, perhaps one they find on Amazon.

Total: (NewEgg: $1168.01), Amazon : $947.69

OVERCLOCKING: I want to try, but I am a noobie
SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Not now. But I would like to in the future.

MONITOR RESOLUTION: (1680x1050, 1920x1080) - Right now I have a 1280 x 1024,which I'll be using until I save up for my dula-monitor setup. Once I have enough moolah, I'd love to set up 3840 x 1080.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I also chose these parts as I've read one or two reviews praising their noise levels. I still have nightmares of my roomate's VERY loud desktop from college. Also, this new PC will be closer to my bed than my previous desktop and I plan on keeping it on even when I sleep. Of course that will quickly change if this produces too much noise. Also, I did not bother listing anymore case fans. Do I need anymore? Lastly, although my Amazon final is < $1000, adding a pair of RAM will probably get this past $1000. Is there anything I can change to bring this down without significantly losing out on performance?

I've been really addicted to getting my system together, especially in the last couple of days, and this forum has definitely been very helpful, as seen from older posts, so thank you all! I look forward to a reply!
8 answers Last reply Best Answer
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  1. Best answer
    BR: Drop the BluRay. It's pointless to have it in a PC right now. Save yourself a lot and pick up a cheap SATA DVD burner.

    HSF: It's not overkill, but it's not a good one. Grab the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus.

    CPU: Don't pay the extra $15. The 955 is the same chip.

    Mobo: I would get a USB 3/SATA III board right now. Specifically, either the Gigabyte GA-790XTA-UD4 or Gigabyte GA-890GPA-UD3H.

    PSU: 650W would be enough. The 5770 doesn't need a lot of power.

    RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2 GB 1600 mhz CAS Latency 7 $115. Find these are any similarly price 1600 mhz CAS Latency 7 sticks. I'd avoid OCZ though. They have some compatibility problems.
  2. Hi MadAdmiral,

    Thank you for the quick reply. As you suggested, I've gone ahead and changed the Mobo, CPU, and HSF.

    I have a few questions on the rest.

    PSU - If i were to ever upgrade to HD 5850 and above OR decide to crossfire, will 650 still be enough?
    Bluray - REason for picking this up is so I have the convenience to watch bluray from the comfort of my bed. I have a bluray player in my living room, but tv its attached to is being hogged by family members (which is no big deal since I'm on my computer anyways). So buying this is more for the convenience factor If I pick up a 23" 1923 x 1080 monitor, will this justify the purchase? If not, I'll just pick up the Lite-On IHAS424-98 (the cheaper lite-on from newegg is more expensive on Amazon)
    RAM - As for ram, thank you for the suggestions. I will probably pick up the ram from newegg as I can't find any well reviewed CAS Latency 7 on Amazon.

    Again, thank you for your suggestions. I'll be following this thread closely :D
  3. Yes. 650W would be enough power for even Crossfiring 5850s. The problem is that many 650W units don't have the right number of PCIe connectors, so you may have to buy adapters. If you want to try Crossfiring 5870s, then you might start having power issues...

    BR: I wouldn't say never buy a BR drive, I'm just saying wait on it. The prices will come down a lot, and an optical drive is something that is very, very easy to install.

    RAM: It doesn't have to have good user reviews. My opinion of user reviews (and many, many others on these forums) is that they are basically worthless. I fyou find some G.Skill, Mushkin, or Corsair sticks on Amazon, they are going to be good quality.
  4. Hi MadAdmiral,

    Again, thanks for the quick reply. I think I'll go ahead with all of your suggestions. Again, thank you!
  5. To go with admiral's opinion on reviews, check the date on the reviews too. Some products have compatibility issues when first released and get a bad rating but you should really check reviews within the couple months because sometimes the problem that happened 4+ months ago is probably fixed. Also, lots of people give one star or egg (on newegg) because their product was DOA which isnt a reflection of the products quality, the product they received was faulty or broken. But dont ignore them either and check and see how recent the DOAs are too.
    Just look to see how recent the reviews are and those companies Admiral listed are the most trusted RAM products.
  6. Best answer selected by sonnyg95.
  7. Sorry for coming back to this. but It looks like Amazon only has CAS 9 sticks. Is this good enough or should I go for CAS 7 Latency cards? If the latter, then I think I can go with Newegg for them memory sticks
  8. I would go with CL 7 sticks if it's not a big price difference. I would say if the difference is less than $25-30, go with CL 7.
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