Need help with Water cooling :(

this is a pre-built custom PC, I therefore don't know exactly how it was put together. The other day I noted that the reservoir (acrylic) has small cracks around entry points like power for the pump and tube entries. These cracks are small and only visible when light is directed at it from the side. I have fixed a light and took 3 pictures of the back of the reservoir, please have a look:

The system has been running for about 3 months now, no leaks or problems so far.

Please note on picture 2 the blue residue on the walls of the reservoir.
Feser One Blue UV is being used, the system does not run 24/7

Is any of the above something I should worry about? Please advice.

Thank you
17 answers Last reply
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  1. Looks like stress fractures in the acrylic from forcing the tubing on...or from vibration (likely the first). I would say you should contact the manufacturer of the system and have them correct it, but if you've had it for 3 months they might argue that you caused the cracks and not honor any type of RMA.

    Did you fill the system? Feser One? You are brave...I would never consider using that in any system I laid hands on.
  2. Definitely contact your pre-builder depending on who it is they will hopefully offer you some kind of solution, although I have heard service at them can be pretty poor.
  3. Thanks for your comments so far.

    I did not fill the system, they did.

    Like I said Feser One Blue UV

    Obviously a mistake...

    Please advice which proper liquid to get (if not distilled with PT Nuke?)

    I will prob have to flush the stuff out.

    You think flushing distilled water (hotish, around 60c) will be enough to clean it out, considering there dont seem be any blockages just yet?
  4. Rubix is spot on with his post!
    Distilled and silver kill coil +PT nuke or dead water or either will work. Fesr One's tend to be the worst of the pack of dyes to wreak havoc in a loop - you can throw the machine at their face and demand a refund for selling you potentially damaging stuff :) could be a point ...?

    Prebuilts like RedHarbinger even use lights to add color to their units...not dyes, now that is what you may call professional work.
  5. Okay, I read that when using distilled with PT Nuke + Kill Coil, there is the chance of corrosion, since Kill Coils are silver, and the cooling parts are copper?

    Correct me if I'm wrong, I need to figure out the correct liquid to use to avoid future disasters.
  6. watercooling sticky has that covered down at the FAQ section :)
  7. I appreciate your comments Lutfij, I have read the sticky, its very helpful!
    Just a couple things specific to my problems (and hopefully solution)

    since it has only been running for 3 months and I really do not want to make a big job out of it:

    The tubes to the GPU are rather long, long enough for me to remove the card and hold it away from the case and easily remove one tube from it. (I was suggested to remove ALL water cooling components to drain/clean etc, I hope this isnt necessary)

    This would be the tube which I believe is coming out of the reservoir (pumping) into the gpu, then CPU, then radiator, then back to reservoir.

    You think I can do what you told me to by just removing the gpu and leave the rest in place?

    Once it is flushed with vinegar mixed solution (I would still do that with the 'old' pump+reservoir), I would obviously flush the system with distilled, then completely drain the loop (with one tube removed from the gpu), remove the reservoir, reattach the new reservoir, reattach the GPU, fill the reservoir with a proper mixture and let it run.

    Another question I have is:

    In order to do all that I obviously need to have the system off, with just the pump working. my motherboard has the 24pin connector obviously, which I will disconnect, but there also is a another power connection at the top left corner of the motherboard.

    Do I need to disconnect that as well as ALL other components? Like HDDs, Fan Controllers, lighting etc?

    I roughly understand how you jump the 24pin power connection to start the PSU without the motherboard.

    You guys are really helping me out here, so thank you for that!
  8. 3 months and a new flush; would rather be a good idea to tear down the entire loop and inspect each block for damage since the fesers are known to break down to gunky material and block the restrictive parts of block mainly the areas that makeup the cpu and GPU block.

    So my advice is, Tear down loop, carefully open block and if there are damages - there's ketchup and a toothbrush to clean them off the copper parts.

    *are you even allowed to do this as I know it may void your warranty :) :/

    If you only want to flush with distill then I'd say yeah have the GPU off, remove the tube that delivers the liquid to the GPU and have that end at the bucket so you complete a loop. Simple principal really what goes in, comes out the other end :) i.e: one tube goes to bucket and one tube from bucket goes to GPU.

    Regarding power:
    disconnect all the leads to your peripherals, devices and components. have the 24 pin jumpered and only the molex powering your pump should be hooked to the 4pin molex.

    ** Can we have a full system specs please, this thread is turning out to be a lil too vague without knowing what you have to work with.

    Post a pic of the entire case+some inside shots if you're unsure.
  9. Full system specs:

    Asus Sabertooth X79 motherboard
    Water cooled Intel Extreme Edition i7 3960X Hyperthreaded Hex Core
    Water cooled Nvidia GTX 680
    32GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance RAM
    Asus Xonar D2X Sound Card
    250GB Corsair SSD Force 3
    2TB HDD

    Corsair HX1050 1000Watt Power supply
    XSPC 360RS Full Water Cooling system
    Zalman ZM-MFC3 System monitor LCD

    Case images are to follow as soon as I have discussed this with the manufacturer...
    So far I was offered to send this PC (25kg) back via post on (I believe) my own expense, which is around 30-40£. A new reservoir is around 50£
    So far, I am rather disappointed with the assistance I am getting, at the end of the day, good customer service would attempt to defuse the situation asap and offer all possible solutions to the problem instead of making the customer pay for sending this huge package back to them, which in turn might lead to more broken components.

    A bit silly, if they just send me a new reservoir I would happily accept that as a solution to a problem which most likely originated from them in the first place!

    "Fractured acrylic as seen on your photos is most commonly caused by mishandling during setup, i.e. too much force applied when connecting tubes. This is common when customers forget to use hot water to soften tube edges and instead force them to expand against the fragile acrylic

    -XSPC Customer Relations"

    Just to make sure, the tube going into the GPU and THEN into the cpu comes from the lower left part of the XSPC water reservoir

    Sorry for the small picture, can't find anything bigger as there seem to be many versions which have different outlets/connections at different locations on the reservoir.

    I am not 100% which way the water is running actually...
  10. Its not overly complicated to physically dis/assemble a water-cooling loop, most of the difficulty comes from figuring out which parts to get and that already solved for you. Just make sure to read up on how and watch a couple on videos on it. The NCIX Tech Tips Ultimate Water-Cooling guide on Youtube. Its a great series that covers most facets of water-cooling.

    Bad customer service is pretty annoying. I'm currently debating with myself to bother going through the RMA process on a dead memory stick or just buying an identical stick. To RMA it I would have to deliver it to the retailer (only open during weekdays, when I cant drive 2hrs round trip to get to the store), wait between 15-20 working days for them to test it and if they find it to be faulty I will get a replacement. Included I need the receipt, which I had already explained I don't have.
    Now realize that customer service is far more important than a $4 savings. Another retailer I bought stuff from instantly replaced a faulty product and has great customer service. Only getting stuff from them from now on.

    On the X20 750 pump that is included on most XSPC kits, the water flows out of the left hand hole (looking at its front).
  11. Hello folks, think its time to update you on the status of this:

    UKGC, which stands for United Kingdom Gaming Computer obviously failed to maintain a good customer relationship. Their incompetence at building computers is almost laughable.

    The PC arrived back then with the Power Supply being upside down. it was taking air from outside and blowing hot air into the case. I obviously turned it around (even described in the MANUAL) so that it takes air from outside, and blows it out directly through the designed slot at the bottom.

    Funnily, UKGC's Daman Curtis said its impossible to turn it around because "the CPU cable isn't long enough."

    I have no idea what he meant by that,I guess he was just caught out and made something up.

    Long story short, I ordered a new Reservoir, not acrylic !
    Which means I can now start destroying their online reputation :)

    I need your help with something though, please tell me which water and additives to get from this site (both for cleaning it out and then refilling with a mixture for long term use)

  12. **Which means I can now start destroying their online reputation**
    Although its useful to post initially alerting others to the potential downfalls of a vendor, there is no honour in 'destroying' anything or anyone, it only leads to self-destruction
    **UKGC's Daman Curtis said its impossible to turn it around because "the CPU cable isn't long enough**
    by putting the Psu the right way, you have effectively lengthened the Cpu cable as it is slightly closer to the rear/mobo tray, allowing greater not lesser reach,
    bte with it being the way it was when returned it wouldn't be taking air from outside and blowing hot into the case, it would suck air from the cards and exhaust it, still a bad option
    and the Sticky will tell you that distilled water is the way, with or without a killcoil or Ptnuke is your call, but I use UV light and coils on my loop and most here use coils or PTNuke,
    **Edit, on the Xspc res, the fitting with the pump attached on the res is the output from the res, the fitting that just feeds into the res is the input or return line, when planning your tubing route start at the back of the pump where the fitting leaves the res and 'follow' the water route as it will be pumped when its on**
  13. All you need to put in the loop is Distilled Water you can get from any supermarket, and some Anti-Microbial solution.

    The two common options for that are
    -A Killcoil, basically a little strip of .999 Silver that you put somewhere in the loop. Its ionization will kill any bacteria/algae in the loop.
    - A Biocide, which is a chemical (often Copper Sulfate) that kills bacteria/algae in the loop. Gotta re-apply every time you change the water out.
    I use a Killcoil myself, because its as simple as dropping it in the res and forgetting about it.
  14. No they won't. Daman Curtis from UKGC is a useless sod who doesn't even fully understand how to build a computer properly.

    Hence I have taken it over and will replace/change what he mucked up :D

    Ps.: You should see the "cable management" at the back, it is so bad, it actually bulged the entire cover plate and all cables went into a central knot! haha
  15. Dont bother buying premium Distilled water, supermarket Distilled is enough. Once you put it in the loop and all the metals seep into the water its all the same anyway.
  16. If you should go for color in your loop, you can try out Mayhems Dyes/concentrates however they react with almost all sorts of tubing sooner or later. Question is WHEN?

    You should go for distilled as your first option. Its readily available and its easy on your clothes if you're a cluts while working with fluids.

    Speaking of which, the dyes are what they are, they are a staining agent, so they will eventually stain the insides of your loop and latter breakdown to form a goop on the restrictive sections of your loop.
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