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First build boot/POST issue

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March 11, 2010 8:37:39 PM

First of all, yes, I have read the sticky and gone through the points (no. 16 and 21 excluded).

build:

GA-790fxta-UD5 rev1.0
AMD Phenom II x4 955 BE 125W with ARCTIC COOLING FREEZER 7 PRO REV.2 S-775/1156/1366/AM2+/AM3
Asus Radeon HD 5850
DDR3 2x2GB OCZ Gold pc3-10666 9-9-9-20 (originaly in ddr3_3 and _4 slot)
Corsair 650TX
Samsung spinpoint f3 1TB 7200rpm 32MB
Asus 300 with two stock fans installed
unfotunatelly no speaker installed... yet.

Samsung Syncmaster 2250 21,5"
Logitech 350 USB keyboard

Now to my issue. As thread name states, I can't get my new build to boot. I tried to assemble the computer yesterday, using a friend as a guide. (I also read tecmo34's guide and the Tom's Hardware guide beforehand) and everything went smooth until we tried to boot the computer.

Connecting the PSU lit up all the diodes on MB nicely. Pressing power button got all fans started without issues, everything sounded nice and stable. Only screen remained black. We checked the build and tried to start again a few times. After several random turn off/turn on cycles actually resulted in the full logo screen, which was of no joy, since neither of my 2 usb keyboards were responding (the diodes lit up alright, just pressing buttons had no effect at all). By the time we got hold of a ps/2 keyboard that could maybe work, our luck ran out and no post or logo screen appeared.

So now I am pretty much lost.. if I didn't see any logo/post on this build, I would have thought that there is some compatibility issue or something that was damaged.. but the fact that it actually resulted in a boot a few times quite confuses me.

I tried to go through the boot sticky, but neither of the points made any difference. Thinking that screen not receiving any signal might have something to do with my GPU, I tried to google HD 5850 boot issues and came across several threads across the net stating that there might be something up with the bios not recognising the card or whatnot, so I tried connecting a mate's old gpu, an EN 7800 gt, but that had exactly the same result. I tried swapping PCI-E lanes, cables (DVI and DVI-VGA), even swapping monitors, but no luck..

So, this is my cry for help.. anybody encountered similar problems? Or made similar build without issues?

and a few extra questions that bug me atm:

1) USB vs ps2 keyboard in BIOS. Is it actually necessary to have a ps/2 keyboard to start/set bios the first time?
2) how long should I wait for the logo/POST to show on the screen to be sure that seriously nothing is going to happen?
3) Is there a way to find out what causes the problems in my build without having PC speaker? Other than buying every component 2x and then try each if it works..

More about : build boot post issue

March 11, 2010 8:58:31 PM

Have you tried to boot off the onboard graphics?(if it has it)

Also what are u using with the monitor? VGA? DVI? HDMI? Is the pc on even though the monitor isnt showing a display?

infact completely dis-regard that 2nd bit, as i was writing a reply as i was reading.

Check all the cables etc again, unplug them, and plug them back in(inside the case)

And no, you do not need a ps/2 keyboard, a usb should be perfectly fine.
March 11, 2010 9:00:43 PM

lindley010 said:
Have you tried to boot off the onboard graphics?(if it has it)

Also what are u using with the monitor? VGA? DVI? HDMI? Is the pc on even though the monitor isnt showing a display?


there is no onboard graphics on the MB (unless it is invisible to my noob eyes)

I tried using DVI and the DVI-to-VGA cable as that is the only thing that both of my screens can take.
Related resources
March 11, 2010 9:03:58 PM

qurkeburkly said:
there is no onboard graphics on the MB (unless it is invisible to my noob eyes)

I tried using DVI and the DVI-to-VGA cable as that is the only thing that both of my screens can take.



also disconnect all the ram, and take off the cpu heatsink, and replace them, also swap the ram sticks about.

I had a problem once with a 2gb and 1 gb ram stick, if the 2gb stick was in slot #1 it wouldnt boot, however it would if the 1gb was in slot #1 and the 2gb in slot #2.

P.S, if nothing is showing within 10 seconds, then nothing is going to.

PSS after reading it again, it seems like a ram issue. mess about with the ram and see if u can get it to boot.
March 11, 2010 9:09:15 PM

I moved the ram around already, 1 at a time and 2 at a time, didn't do squat.

By disconnecting and replacing the RAM and heatsink, you mean switch for different ones, or just take off and put back in again? Or Disconnect and put new ones in?
March 11, 2010 9:12:13 PM

qurkeburkly said:
I moved the ram around already, 1 at a time and 2 at a time, didn't do squat.

By disconnecting and replacing the RAM and heatsink, you mean switch for different ones, or just take off and put back in again? Or Disconnect and put new ones in?


Meant removing them and putting them back on, just to make sure it isnt loose etc.

Have you got any other DDR3 ram?(at any speed) that u can try?
March 11, 2010 9:17:08 PM

I tried with the RAM several times and the heatsink can't be any more secure than it is now.

Nope, dont have any spare ddr3 on me right now. Will have to try asking around to see if that can solve it. Thanks.
March 11, 2010 9:35:15 PM

qurkeburkly said:
I tried with the RAM several times and the heatsink can't be any more secure than it is now.

Nope, dont have any spare ddr3 on me right now. Will have to try asking around to see if that can solve it. Thanks.


i honestly cant think of anything if the boot screen isnt showing, i would of said change the gfx, but u tried that, u changed the monitor, and uve messed about with the ram, other than trying a completely different stick of ram.

just as a checklist

Youve changed the graphics card with one you know is working 100%.
Youve tried it in pci-e slot 1, 2 and 3.

You tried putting the ram in slot 1 with only 1 stick, then change it with the other stick?

youve changed monitor.

youve changed the cable that goes from gfx to monitor.

maybe the mb is faulty. I honestly cant think of anything else, maybe someone else has a suggestion?

Is the pc staying powered on even though no screen is showing? or does it turn its self off?

P.S you have connected the 6 pin power cable to the gfx as well right? Again, just a random thing.
March 11, 2010 9:56:11 PM

Youve changed the graphics card with one you know is working 100%.
Youve tried it in pci-e slot 1, 2 and 3.
yups. Tried both of them in all 3 slots.

You tried putting the ram in slot 1 with only 1 stick, then change it with the other stick?
Yes. Tried each stick in each of the 4 slots and then tried both of them in both of the dual channel possibilities.

youve changed monitor, youve changed the cable that goes from gfx to monitor.
uh-huh.


The computer stays powered on, everything is running, except that I can't see anything on the screen. and it is plugged in.

And yus, both pci-e 6 pins in there. Tried using 2 pci-e 6pins directly from psu, 1 from psu and one molex-pci-e that came with the graphics card and even 2x molex-to-pcie 6 pin just for the heck of it. It worked and sounded exactly the same each time.
March 11, 2010 9:59:19 PM

qurkeburkly said:
Youve changed the graphics card with one you know is working 100%.
Youve tried it in pci-e slot 1, 2 and 3.
yups. Tried both of them in all 3 slots.

You tried putting the ram in slot 1 with only 1 stick, then change it with the other stick?
Yes. Tried each stick in each of the 4 slots and then tried both of them in both of the dual channel possibilities.

youve changed monitor, youve changed the cable that goes from gfx to monitor.
uh-huh.


The computer stays powered on, everything is running, except that I can't see anything on the screen. and it is plugged in.

And yus, both pci-e 6 pins in there. Tried using 2 pci-e 6pins directly from psu, 1 from psu and one molex-pci-e that came with the graphics card and even 2x molex-to-pcie 6 pin just for the heck of it. It worked and sounded exactly the same each time.


I honestly dont know, my guess would be faulty hardware. Unless someone else has a suggestion, i'd guess its your mobo. You could get that sent back & replaced.

I once had a similar problem, when i got my 9500gt a couple years back, i connected the vga from the gfx to monitor, the comp booted, nothing showed on the screen, i swapped the vga cable wit a different one, worked fine (there was nothing wrong with the cable, it just didnt like the 9500gt)

Although with you using a dvi, this simply doesnt happen. Can you try the DVI cable with a completely different pc?
March 11, 2010 10:04:04 PM

Although with you using a dvi, this simply doesnt happen. Can you try the DVI cable with a completely different pc?

Can give it a go, doubt that it will do the trick though.
March 12, 2010 9:48:39 AM

Hm. I got a pc speaker, tried booting the computer a few times just HSF, PSU, MB and later with RAM out of desperation and didn't get a sound out of it. I found a few sites that state what the different bios sounds should mean, but nothing about total silence. Anybody knows what that could mean? Other than that I am still totally screwed?
a b B Homebuilt system
March 12, 2010 10:42:25 AM

No beeps usually means no cpu or bad cpu.
Did you connect the 8 pin Aux power connector for the CPU? at top of board near cpu fan connector?
March 12, 2010 10:52:04 AM

Yups I did, checked it a few times by now.
March 12, 2010 12:37:19 PM

Unolocogringo said:
No beeps usually means no cpu or bad cpu.
Did you connect the 8 pin Aux power connector for the CPU? at top of board near cpu fan connector?


He said his computer his turning on but no screen is showing, if it was the cpu fan it would still boot, but turn off.

The no beeps again, could be down to a faulty motherboard & I highly doubt u have a spare mobo that ur cpu will fit...

RMA the mobo, if the replacement doesnt fix it. maybe its the cpu. but im leaning towards the mobo still.
March 12, 2010 12:51:45 PM

Seems like I don't have much choice there. I will try to swap the Arctic freezer for the stock cooler to see if that would have any effect as you suggested earlier and if not, I will RMA the MB and see if that was the problem.
a c 122 B Homebuilt system
March 12, 2010 1:25:26 PM

Strip everything out except the CPU, HSF, PSU, and the system speaker. If you still get silence, it's most likely the PSU, motherboard, or CPU.

You can try breadboarding. That would eliminate the case.
Breadboarding
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

If you have or can borrow a multimeter, you can checkout the PSU. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires. This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if
it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer.
March 12, 2010 1:41:14 PM

Thanks jsc, I will give it a shot now that I have the speaker. Luckily the MB has onboard power button (=

But let's suppose that the PSU is good, how do I find out whether it is the CPU or MB that is at fault? So far it seems that the only choice is to find somebody with the right socket supporting my CPU and try if it works there. Any other possibilities?
March 13, 2010 6:38:41 AM

So, breadboarding tried. MB with HSF and PSU on a wooden board, still nothing happens.

I also took out the CPU to check if I maybe screwed up anything the first time I put it in, but it looks fine. Put the stock cooler on it afterwards, no change either.

Going to look now for a multimeter to check out the PSU.
March 13, 2010 9:45:55 AM

So, checked the PSU with the paper clip jumpstart, tested each of the cables at least 3x, my multimeter set at 20v, the error margin being 0,5%.

yellow: 12.12-12.13V
Orange: 3.4V
Red: 5.15V
Violet: 5.06-5.07
Gray: 0 -> 5.15V
Blue: -10.9V

what confused me was the blue wire which showed -10.9V every time I tested it. I tried to look for some fluctuation margin that would tell me how bad that is, but can only find the +-5% on the 3.3V 5V and 12V rails...
!