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New Build/Builder, need your OK

First time builder! Learning hard lessons. Would like community to verify my parts selection and advise me before I make purchase. Do my selections look okay?

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: This week BUDGET RANGE: $250-$400 before rebates

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming(mostly online), and word processing :P

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Mouse, Keyboard, Speakers, HDD, DVD, PSU, Case, Video Card, Monitor, Operating System

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: newegg.com COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: US

PARTS PREFERENCES: AMD CPU, Gigabyte Motherboard, G.Skill RAM

OVERCLOCKING: No/Maybe SLI OR CROSSFIRE: No/Maybe

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1600 x 900

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Need wireless adapter sooner or later, just wondering if there is a 'value' one on newegg.

As this is my first build, have been having problems. Have already wasted $100. Posted thread earlier, asking for help, and subsequently decided to return motherboard and ram, and set aside AM2 CPU: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/282407-31-system-fails-boot-shuts-fraction-second

My biggest concern at this point is compatibility(I'm newb), especially with the power supply.


STILL NEED(any better suggestions?):
CPU - AMD Phenom II X3 720 Black Edition Heka 2.8GHz 3 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 95W Triple-Core Processor - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103652


Motherboard - GIGABYTE GA-MA790GPT-UD3H AM3 AMD 790GX HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128398


RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-4GBRH - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231276

Wireless Adapter?


ALREADY PURCHASED(just waiting for the CPU, Mobo, RAM):
CPU Cooler - Rocketfish Gaming RF-UPCUWR
http://www.hawkee.com/shop/prod/8553056/

Video Card(planning on upgrading next year) - Recertified: EVGA 512P3N802DX GeForce 8800 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130545

PSU - Thermaltake TR2 TRX-650M 650W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 Modular Active PFC Power Supply – Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153116

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218

Operating System - Windows 7 Home Premium – OEM

DVD - LG Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD Burner - Bulk – OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136177

Case - Broadway Com Corp Sonic Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case – Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811162045

Monitor - Recertified: Acer P205Hbmd 20" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 20000:1 (ACM) Built-in Speakers
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009226

I feel like I've thrown away a lot of money for an average system. :( Never expected to be spending $1000 total.
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  1. Best answer
    Check out these deals:

    CPU/Mobo: X4 955 and Gigabyte GA-790XTA-UD4 $265 after rebate
    RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2 GB 1600 mhz CAS Latency 7 $115

    Total: $380.

    That gives you the best AMD CPU, a very future proof board and the best/cheapest RAM out there.

    I will pont out that most of the rest of the build is crap. I wouldn't let that cooler anywhere near a CPU. Nor would I let that PSU touch anything I spent money on...
  2. Academic but should have gone with an Antec, Corsair, etc PSU...and CM 212+ HSF
  3. Yes. Thermaltakes are decidedly average PSU's.
  4. MadAdmiral said:
    Check out these deals:

    CPU/Mobo: X4 955 and Gigabyte GA-790XTA-UD4 $265 after rebate
    RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2 GB 1600 mhz CAS Latency 7 $115

    Total: $380.

    That gives you the best AMD CPU, a very future proof board and the best/cheapest RAM out there.

    I will pont out that most of the rest of the build is crap. I wouldn't let that cooler anywhere near a CPU. Nor would I let that PSU touch anything I spent money on...


    Okay, I'm definitely doing that, even some people are trying to talk me into an i5 build. I just don't have the money for an i5.

    I'm also going to return my PSU and go with:
    CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005&cm_re=cmpsu_650-_-17-139-005-_-Product

    All that leaves that is bad is the video card, right? Not doing anything about that. I'm fine with it for now.

    Thanks for your help.

    gl hf
  5. Can you return any of the other stuff....
  6. That and a slower HDD and low quality case...
  7. +1^, but it's to late now Admiral.

    Next time post a thread first.
  8. MadAdmiral said:
    That and a slower HDD and low quality case...


    How is that HDD slow? I thought 7200 was fast... and isn't 16mb cache decent? Or does that matter for speed?

    As for the case... yeah. Some of the screw holes don't align. Power supply could only take 3 screws, one was out of alignment. But what else is wrong with buying a cheap case? Not as good cooling? Not really going to affect the performance of my parts is it?

    I was just trying to cut costs where I could. I got the HDD because of many reviews attesting to it's reliability.
  9. builderbobftw said:
    Can you return any of the other stuff....


    What else would I want to return?

    A DVD is a DVD. Not much room for upgrade is there?

    Satisfied with monitor for the $110 price.

    And I'm switching the heatsink for:

    CPU Cooler - Sunbeam CR-CCTF 120 mm Core-Contact Freezer CPU Cooler W/TX-2 - Retail
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835207004

    But yeah, I've learned my lesson. Ask the experts before you buy.
  10. A cheaper HSF http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065&Tpk=212

    Every one here always suggests it over most every thing else. I don't know much about HSF's but I think this is the cheapest 120MM direct Heat pipe hsf you can buy.
  11. whitefang said:
    A cheaper HSF http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065&Tpk=212

    Every one here always suggests it over most every thing else. I don't know much about HSF's but I think this is the cheapest 120MM direct Heat pipe hsf you can buy.



    I originally had this HSF selected, but was going to opt for the Sunbeam based on a few reviews I'd read, and the fact that shipping on it at Newegg was free(which, when combined with the mail-in-rebate, actually makes it cheaper).

    But I'll switch to this. Seems like everyone adores it.

    I'm getting close to final selections.

    Thanks very much. I appreciate your help. Everyone starts with knowing nothing, and learning is expensive. I'm glad there are people out there who are willing to teach an amateur. I probably would have wasted a lot more money and time without the advice of the experts on Tom's Hardware.
  12. Best answer selected by listenmylove.
  13. listenmylove said:
    How is that HDD slow? I thought 7200 was fast... and isn't 16mb cache decent? Or does that matter for speed?

    As for the case... yeah. Some of the screw holes don't align. Power supply could only take 3 screws, one was out of alignment. But what else is wrong with buying a cheap case? Not as good cooling? Not really going to affect the performance of my parts is it?

    I was just trying to cut costs where I could. I got the HDD because of many reviews attesting to it's reliability.


    The reason the HDD is slow is that it uses smaller platters. The platter is the actually disc that data is stored on. Current HDDs use a 500 GB platter, meaning that each disc can store 500 GB of data. The large the platter, the higher the data density. The higher the data density, the faster the drive can read/write the data. RPMs are very misleading, as all current WD drives spin at 7200 RPM, but their Blue and Green series are slower than their Caviar Black series. Currently, the fastest drives are the Samsung Spinpoint F3 (500 GB or 1 TB), Seagate 7200.12 (500 GB or 1 TB), WD Caviar Black (1 TB 6 GBps version and 2 TB0.

    There are two types of cheap case: quality one without features and poor quality ones. The cheap case you bought is cheap quality. Screws not aligning is one problem. As is the case easily bending, denting and scratching. Other problems with low quality cases are louder fans, poor cable management systems, poor air flow, and such. The performance effects could be as bad as shorting out the board, but more likely just a louder computer and higher component temperatures.

    Here's the thing about HDDs: they're all reliable. If a manufacturer made an unreliable drive, that could very likely put them out of business. As long as you stick with the name brands, you're going to get a reliable drive.
  14. MadAdmiral said:
    The reason the HDD is slow is that it uses smaller platters. The platter is the actually disc that data is stored on. Current HDDs use a 500 GB platter, meaning that each disc can store 500 GB of data. The large the platter, the higher the data density. The higher the data density, the faster the drive can read/write the data. RPMs are very misleading, as all current WD drives spin at 7200 RPM, but their Blue and Green series are slower than their Caviar Black series. Currently, the fastest drives are the Samsung Spinpoint F3 (500 GB or 1 TB), Seagate 7200.12 (500 GB or 1 TB), WD Caviar Black (1 TB 6 GBps version and 2 TB0.

    There are two types of cheap case: quality one without features and poor quality ones. The cheap case you bought is cheap quality. Screws not aligning is one problem. As is the case easily bending, denting and scratching. Other problems with low quality cases are louder fans, poor cable management systems, poor air flow, and such. The performance effects could be as bad as shorting out the board, but more likely just a louder computer and higher component temperatures.

    Here's the thing about HDDs: they're all reliable. If a manufacturer made an unreliable drive, that could very likely put them out of business. As long as you stick with the name brands, you're going to get a reliable drive.


    Well. :( I did actually think about platter size. I just thought that this one was larger platters because of the 640GB. Will platter speed really affect my performance? Or rather, what does it affect?
  15. Yes, two 320gb platters will generate more heat, power, lowwer spped than a single 50gb platter.
  16. Platter size affects everything about the drive. Just because a drive's capacity is large doesn't mean it's platters are. I'm amazed it's not listed in the specs on Newegg and other retailers.
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