Will the H100i be sufficent?

So i want to overclock my I5-3570k and my hyper 212+ is not doing the job, at 90c with 4.4 1.208v I have 100 dollars to spend(more or less) so if you have any idea of any watercolling that can fit in a HAF912 case and will cool my 3570k to at least 70c in intel burntest at 4.6 hopfully then please suggest this
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More about will h100i sufficent
  1. Sufficient?
    1| Head down to the watercooling sticky(in my sig) and perform the TDP calc and the heat dissipation needed. There aren't any specs from corsair as to how much heat the H100's slim rad can dump but as a comparison you have the rads FPI count. The closest thickness to the H100 rad is the XSPC RS240, Alpahacool ST30 but their construction and make are worlds apart from the H100's.

    ^ after some digging you will conclude that the H100 is meh...

    2| FYI - the 3570K is hotheaded with the more voltage you apply thus running up to those temps.

    3| Whats the state of your case? If airflow, dust and cable management aren't taken care of a ~$200 watercooling setup wouldn't even give you a temp drop of 1 C.

    *
    Quote:
    3x120mm intake, 1x120mm 1x200mm out|
    ^in sig

    There's the problem right there, the case isn't designed for positive pressure, you should at least have an airflow of exhaust=intake

    4| For $100 that a really under performing loop which is taken over by a NH D14 for less.
  2. 1| yeah i can see this, do you have any others in mind?

    2|yeah i can see that :P i boost .015 and the temps go flying

    3|Im a little confused what do you recommend i do... because with a double 120mm radiator it would be equal with 3x120mm in(2 front one side) and 3x120mm out(2 top[radiator] and one on back
  3. I would try and put the H100 at the 240mmx120mm intake area. Keep the other intake stock and make sure its focused on your 670.

    Because you are going for a pretty sizable CPU overclock you should make sure your radiator is getting hit with the coldest air possible. I would suggest getting 2 extra fans to run the H100 in a push/pull configuration which will also help provide the rest of your case with more air.

    BTW, I don't recommend getting a H100 or any AIO liquid cooler as they under perform and you will probably move onto a real custom loop after being disappointed by the H100.

    TL;DR: Custom Loop >> H100 (& other AIO's). If you are dead set on the H100, go for the front mount + 2 extra fans for push/pull.
  4. I personally am off the h-100 / h-100i band wagon but at the same time I'd like too challenge the opposition to provide evidence of the existence of the " entry lvl custom water loop at nearly the same price " option that always comes up in these threads ...... fume ..
  5. Meaning the Raystorm/Rasa kits from XSPC? They do exist.
  6. That last post prior to your's seems like deja-vu - eyh Rubix ? :)
    *Google is the magic orb of knowledge...
    @ rufus - you've been a long running member here on Tom's and I respect that but to just call out "most of the watercoolers"advice(aka entry level solution) on being fumes needs more backing just you and newcomers to this side.

    ^ Do you argue with a surgeon when they're operating, by telling them which is the best method to operate, ...or now do you?
  7. I guess it depends on what constitutes the price range and budget of these solutions per individual. Yes, they cost more than an H100/H100i. Is the cooling capability better? Of course. Is it $20-$30 worth of better? I can't 100% say because I've not owned either, but based on reviews and comparisons of each, I can say that I personally would opt for the slightly higher-cost solution, or just go with a good air cooler.

    Heck, I really don't suggest an air cooler other than the Hyper 212 when I build machines for other people...there isn't a need unless you commit to go actual water loop.
  8. Argh ! I hate being wrong ! Ive being searching parts piece·meal and comming up with much higher prices . I respectfully offer my appologies .. Thankyou both for your restrained approach to correcting my oversight ..
  9. @ Rubix - We don't need to own one to find out its prospects. Lowjack had a H100 and he switched to an XSPC RS kit - temp drop on idle was 6C and on load was 11~C which was also on a very good OC on his 965 I think. I spoke with him via PM and he was really glad moving onto WC'ing the right way(while he was active i.e).

    Pumps good to handle more in a loop, rad range and make is far outperfoming than the H100 and the stuff it comes with are great for that price. I even have the Corsair Alu rad to prove that they are nothing but junk.

    There's the other thing, you can't put a price lock on cooling...if you're doing that then the Hyper 212 is the best performer of that price range.

    I look at AIO's like furniture Mclaren designed from a F1 cars ruined engine (and got it up for auction at crazy bidding prices).

    *I don't trust my clients with watercooling, I keep them on air too.

    @ rufus - apology noted, just be careful mate! :)
  10. lol well first off thank you guys very much so for being such a great help and replying :D

    also i am a complete noob at watercooling i literally learned it was possible 2 months ago and started to look it up yesterday :P so when you put out some of your scientific awesomeness please make it so a 3 year old can understand :P

    now to bussines-

    basically I really want to push my CPU as far as absoluteley possible(hopfully at least 4.6-4.7 if my chip can handle it) and what i want is a lot of wiggle room for my temps... So i am completely open to all water loops custom what ever i dont know anything about them... as long as it can fit in my case and will cool my cpu very well, i can always save up a little for a very nice water cooling setup

    Slugger-
    What did you just say?(question) :P so i should put the water cooling loope(with two 120mm) in the front? not on top where i have the 200mm out right now? also yeah im completely fine with getting a push pull configuration and spending the money to get very nice fans for this that can pull as much as possible because really i dont care about noice my 670 screams and i have noise cancelling headphones so noice is no problem just performance.

    rufus-
    its nice to see someone who can finally admit they are wrong(even though i have no idea what you guys are talking about) :P

    rubix-
    I dont want air cooling just because its not a efficent and not as good for eye candy/showing off my build :P)

    lutfiji-
    you can always just quote them(reply to their comment) and yeah i agree with you on just saying things

    well thank you guys very much :D really appreciate the help more than you think [:panicmaster85:3]


    ntoe: just wanted to say that i love this part of toms in the systems section everyone hates each other thats my main area and i get in fights often :P i think i may start posting in this area(though i need to learn a lot more than i know)
  11. Wish they had thiswith a tank res instead of the 5.25 bay res . Best of luck Panic . lots of good input here for you ..:)
  12. yeah really :D hey that watercooling loop looks good(again complete noob) though it is a bit expensive but like i said for great cooling i can save up a little
  13. Quote:
    rubix-
    I dont want air cooling just because its not a efficent and not as good for eye candy/showing off my build )


    Most of us started off with similar feelings, but personally, I continue to do it because it's a lot of fun to plan a future build and work it into plans, etc. Yeah, you could easily get by with your boxed air cooler and call it a day, but your build ends up looking like everyone else with the same case and similar hardware. Watercoolers just have this 'thing' about them that says perfection, attention to detail and patience...and an understanding of something that most others don't often bother to research in the first place.
  14. yeah i complete agree my favorite part of building my build(i came from a core2duo and hd1000 graphics 15fps max in minecraft :P) was the hours and hours taht i needed to spend to find out which parts to get[of course my first build was bad but i upgraded it very well to what i have now]) and yeah i see what you mean i like to think of my build and to feel like it is perfect and i think that if i get a nice water loop that it will make it perfection... also the research for this will be awesome :D
  15. That was a stellar point Rubix [:lutfij:3]

    @ Panic - You may want to think it out well. Perfection isn't achieved via a flash and a bang :) so there's less to panic about and more to talk about.
  16. LOL nice one :na:

    also yeah i see what you mean but I do want a nice cool chip and a nice looking inside of my case... so what water loop do you guys think would be best for me i cant do any research right now but i will tommorow but can you give me a ball park range on how much i will need to pay to get a good cooling loop?
  17. For that you need to stock yourself with inspiration ---> THGF watercooling gallery and the build log thread. See how most of us have done it. Ofc there's Google to help you fine tune those antennas.

    You need to understand your ball park, you could stay well within because you're trying to get your feet wet but I went outside my ball park into another court.

    You sound like you want a custom setup - so I won't suggest any parts (well, not now atleast) and see how your alchemy skills are.

    Have fun!
  18. lol ok i will do some research tommorow(im already giddy :P) and i will keep you guys posted anyways thanks for the help so far, also is water cooling dangerous?
  19. If you take the time to research what your doing its not.
    While there is always the possibility of your parts getting drenched, the vast majority of them involve user error. If you research how to do it right and are vigilant when building the loop, the chances of it failing are minimal.
  20. hmm, i will do much research but would you say it is how likely? because the last thing i need is my 1500 dollar build to go down the drain... literally
  21. The chances of any particular part failing, 1% if that.
    Chances of you doing something wrong, scales with how much research you do, how well you plan out the loop and the vigilance taken when building it.
  22. ugh, well then thats a bit risky :/ I will do as much research as possible tommorow or on sunday but i will be ready :P now the job of finding a loop, is there any advice or where to go to learn about custom water loops and where to get them? a bit not knowing
  23. Watercooling sticky -> you're not following our posts...
  24. The sticky, first place that first time water-coolers are told to go on these forums.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky
  25. im sorry im really tired its 2 am here :P i forgot about that... I will look at that and again thanks for dealing with my ignorance
  26. You do understand that we don't follow prescription techniques round this end of the forums...right? :)

    Patiently read through the sticky and take your time amassing the knowledge and you'll end up having done the job on your own.

    FYI - you'll need more than 20mins to figure out what they are!!! This time I mean it, your answers are there for reading...

    And whats with everyone choosing a BI rad in the first jump!?!?!?!
  27. hahah no i did not know :P sorry still confused a little bit

    yeah sorry i will im just really to tired to read it i daze off every 2 minutes so i just watched a video and looked up some stuff about the "subscription"

    oh i know :P dont worry many many hours will be put into effort before i buy somehting that can indangar my components

    because... it cools the best and most people that just start water cooling have midtower cases and most mid tower cases support only 2rad
  28. Lutfij said:
    You do understand that we don't follow prescription techniques round this end of the forums...right? :)

    Patiently read through the sticky and take your time amassing the knowledge and you'll end up having done the job on your own.

    FYI - you'll need more than 20mins to figure out what they are!!! This time I mean it, your answers are there for reading...

    And whats with everyone choosing a BI rad in the first jump!?!?!?!

    Cause It's a ton easier filling the damn thing up. Assuming you have everything all tightened up, if you mess up the water/fluid will be on the outside of the case, not possibly on your power supply/board.

    @panicmaster Distilled water.
  29. I don't know I would rather spend the little extra money on a solution that in the case it does leak its not 100% sure it will murder my compnents
  30. Non-conductive fluid doesnt stay that way for long once its added in the loop. Gradually metals from the blocks and rads will seep into the water and make it conductive.
    http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/4/
  31. The H100 can still leak...but I'm sure you've already found that out by now along with their horror stories.
  32. Ivy Bridge sucks for overclocking so lets just get that out of the way.
  33. Lutfij said:
    The H100 can still leak...but I'm sure you've already found that out by now along with their horror stories.



    Very rare however at least Corsair will cover damages to your system, there are greater chances of leakage with a custom loop vs an H100.
  34. manofchalk said:
    Non-conductive fluid doesnt stay that way for long once its added in the loop. Gradually metals from the blocks and rads will seep into the water and make it conductive.
    http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/22/distilled-water-shootout-water-purity/4/



    By the time that happens it would be time to change out the fluid in your loop anyway
  35. PanicMaster85 said:
    I don't know I would rather spend the little extra money on a solution that in the case it does leak its not 100% sure it will murder my compnents

    That's why you take out everything except for your PSU, Mobo and CPU...

    Or, you could take everything out and build the loop inside then reinstall your parts back in.
  36. You change your water every month do you?
  37. I haven't yet, dunno why you would in a month though.....
  38. manofchalk said:
    You change your water every month do you?



    It will take many months for metals to leech into your coolant, most change with fliud every 6-8 months. Depending on the quallity of your loops and fluids you use change intervals can be much longer that sometimes a little more than a year!!
  39. If you install the parts and then relocate them into case or even at most times moving the block off the mount during leak testing or flushing - there's a high chance the fittings will unscrew(regardless of compression fittings and barbs) and will leak through the O-ring.

    Leak testing is done with the PSU jumpered not while the entire system is running unless you have a test bench where lateral and longitudinal movement is minimized and I've seen alot of people do this on other forums as well as here. Leaving the block off the mount and leak testing. Once that checks out they mount it on and they later complain of a leak or two.

    @ redeemer - Please don't double(or triple) post you can reply to individuals on a single post. Corsair do cover damages but the amount they'll give you is far more questionable than their performance to say the least. I don't need to spoil this thread by going into ugly details you can find that on your own spare time.

    * Would you call a postage of 5 threads in 1 day from different people about Hxx unit leaks a rarity? Antec and everybody else who outsource their CLC manufacturing also had the same QC issue.
  40. Ok well I just finished reading the sticky.... Wow that was great, but good job rubix but yeah I will test out outside of my case the only issue I am having wit that portion is finding a molex plug tester.. Do any of you know of one? Also I'm a bit confused with the clamps on the plug...
  41. oh yeah and what part of toms do i go to for the build?(subscription)
  42. Read the sticky again :)
  43. NOOOO :P fine :na: it was awesome anyways a lot of really cool info :D never even knew about that FPI thing

    ok so i did the equation
    77(4500/3400)x(1.35/1.15)v2 and i got 140.441732459

    so i think i will try and get my radiors delta down to 5(if i am saying this right) I know it will be expensive but i really want a cool CPU and a lot of wiggle room for overclocking and if my chip cant go that far lets say it cant go past 4.5 or 4.3 then I will have the setup for my next upgrade, anways i have decided to split this into areas to focus on, as of right now i am trying to find a 15-20FPI 240mm radiator(its a bit excessive but i want a 5c delta and possibly may add a 670 to it... possibly) anyways if you can recommend any sites to look at i got
    http://skinneelabs.com/water-cooling-radiators/
    from the sticky but i cant find much on 240mm radiotors the only one i could find was a 9FPI radiator but im looking for 15-20

    ^
    Im learning :P already using fancy words like FPI and Delta
  44. Or ya could wait a few months and pay too much for THIS lol
  45. well thtas not fun, alright lufij i have read through it once again please just tell me which section of tomshardware i need to go for help in finding the parts. [:panicmaster85:2]

    also this is the only water cooling section so shouldnt it be this one :/
  46. What Luftij meant is that despite this being the water-cooling section, most of the time we wont give you a shopping list for you to buy. Instead we will educate you and give links to review sites and such, with the knowledge you gain you should be able to do it on your own.
    Much better if you understand why various components are in your loop, rather than just follow what we say in the matter.

    So here are the links to the big water-cooling review sites!
    http://martinsliquidlab.org/
    http://skinneelabs.com/
  47. thanks
  48. few questions

    do i need a radiator template?
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