Pretty much got bitten big time going back into Water cooling with a crash
So bar NONE what are the best fittings and by best I mean less likely to leak what is the best tubing to use less likly to burst the best radi I am in need of 2 3x120MM I used to use TC120.3's but I hear good stuff about the black ice and the best PUMP lowest noise
I am leaning towards all copper blocks no Nickel (see I can read a sticky) a copper radi and acrylic res pump that caught my eye is the D5
BitsPower is usually known for compression fitting quality. Barbs are barbs.
Fittings typically don't leak unless they are damaged or not installed correctly.
So bar NONE what are the best fittings and by best I mean less likely to leak what is the best tubing to use less likly to burst the best radi
Do you mean:
So bar NONE what are the best fittings? And by best I mean less likely to leak. What is the best tubing to use; less likly to burst? The best radi (ator)?
Just trying to understand so I can answer. Tubing doesn't burst. If there are leaks, they come where it contacts the fittings and G1/4 ports where the fittings connect the components.
I hear good stuff about the black ice
The only good Black Ice rads would be the SR1's, but technically, I don't know that they are considered to be in that line, necessarily.
the best PUMP lowest noise
This depends whether you want the best pump or the best pump with low noise. Iwaki is usually considered the highest performing pump used for watercooling, but very expensive. Other than that, D5 and DDC are probably what you are looking for unless you need something more budget-friendly.
Fittings I am leaning towards compression fittings the barb md clamp ones don't look as neat
tubbing yes it can burst because it happened to my last WC system and pretty much fried everything at the time I was using a UV reactive tubing and after a bit over a year the line goes to the CPU block burst amnd sprayed coolent everywhere
total budget for all the gear is 1k if Iwaki is the best then I will get one I am not cutting corners and shorting out my new system the TC1203 I used was very nice all copper and if my memory servers me correct could disapate 550Watts if the Black Ice isn't good what is a good one
How did tubing burst? As in, the tubing split open in the middle and sprayed? Never heard of that. I could easily see a fitting came loose and popped off, but I can't see how tubing would split open.
Barbs can easily look neat if you use slightly smaller tubing than the barb size...it is a very tight fit and essentially has a 'no show' look to it.
I have only seen a handful of people that actually use Iwaki and they typically are on more advanced forums. D5 or DDC pumps are more than enough for the majority of users. If you don't know what Iwaki you are getting, you might be getting into more trouble than it's really worth. The 'best' is different for everyone...it's very subjective based on price, performance expectations, size and noise levels. It's similar to asking 'what is the best car'....best car for...what? Speed? Gas mileage? Budget?
Where are you from and what sites are you considering? Have you looked up radiator benchmarks for comparison? And depending on what Black Ice rad you are referring to depends on my opinion.
Fittings can leak in my First WC system I had a small leak even with dual Hose Clamps over a Hose barb not enough to drip the air movement just from the case fans would evap the drip before it even got large enough to fall the only reason I even knew it was there was because I swapped out a DIMM and noticed a spot of green on my finger, I know I was tightening the clamps enough because I cracked a plastic hose barb once so when I say Best fitting I want one with an inner and outer seal less likely to leak i.e. the koolance Compressions are the ones I am leaning towards
I was using a UV green tubing after about a year it split and sprayed about 1 gallon of RO/DI water inside the case basically frying everything this wasn’t a hole, it wasn’t in a spot where it was rubbed through it wasn’t near a sharp object it was a split along a seam about 1.5 inches long (and I openly admit it was mostly my fault because I used one of my old Aquarium pumps 1150 GPH with a 14+ HH it was most likely too much for the tubing. So I want seamless tubing with a good bend radius not known to degrade under UV light,
I used a no name, an Eheim and a Mag Drive in different systems my last WC system was a pump from Danger Den (moment of silence for a falling leader in the WC world) my big pump had the inlet and outlet reduced from 2 and 1.5 Inch to ½ for my WC system I want a Pump that will be quiet last for a few years of 24/7 use I never turn off my computer.
I used THX blocks from DD never had an issue with them I know you can’t mix block metals without risking issues seeing DD is gone I need a good block for cpu 2011 Socket and Video cards (I won’t use the SLI adapters I have found too many people saying they leak, in a different thread I asked which 7970 was best for WC so whatever blocks I get would have to fix those cards.
I was considering the Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360, Coolgate Triple 120mm Ultimate Heat Exchanger Radiator - Copper Edition or EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 360 XTX
My budget is about 1k for the cooling stuff so I really don’t think I have to skim on anything and I don’t want to because I don’t want a repeat of last time lost my computer and had to pay to replace the carpet in my apartment UV dye stains.
All parts are from Frozencpu.com
2 Coolgate triple 120MM ultimate heat enchanger radiator Copper
2 Aquacomputer FX HD 7970 Full coverage GPU Block
EK MOuntable Dual Loop Dual 200MM Reservoir dual D5 Pumps
Heat Killer Rev 3 CPU Block Cooper
All Fittings are Koolance compression style
Tubing I was leaning toward Tygon Anti Mic
Fittings will only leak if you don't secure them properly, and this is also why leak testing is considered mandatory prior to putting the loop in the case. Pretty much any compression fittings out there will work just fine for the job (Bitspower, EK, Koolance, etc.). I used Enzotech fittings and had no issues. Just make sure the O-rings are installed (barbs and comps) on each fitting before you assemble the loop.
As far as tubing goes, I've only used Primochill LRT and was extremely pleased with it. I used a 1/4" wall vs. some with a 1/8" wall and it was incredibly thick. It was almost too tough to work with if you didn't warm it up in water first.
Given the number of components you've got in the loop, I'd go with the MCP35X since it will give you better pressures to get through the components.
There are a ton of good blocks out there. At some point, it comes down to aesthetics and price rather than performance.
Rads and fans go hand in hand, and are very dependent on how much heat your PC is going to be producing. Work this out first, and the rads and fans will follow naturally.