RAM Unstable at stock speeds
Last response: in Memory
Hello again guys!
So, recently I got a new mobo, ram, and gfx card.
The RAM I got was some nice Mushkin DDR3-1600 2x2GB Silverline Stuff.
http://www.advantionline.com/Mushkin-4-GB-2-X-2GB-DDR3-...
Now the problem I have is that the RAM is rated at 1600 Mhz, but at first I noticed in BIOS Post that it runs at only 1333 Mhz. So I ask the guys at the store how to solve this, and they tell me to set the RAM speed at 1600Mhz manually in the BIOS. So I do this, and it works. However, the programs I use most frequently, (Firefox and Just Cause 2) at that moment, seemed to be crashing roundabout every 5 minutes. I had been running in this mode all day, and it was annoying me quite a bit. Now this morning, (it is evening now), I thought, wait a minute, when I first got the RAM, I left it at 1333 for a couple hours, and never had a problem. So you can guess what I did, I turned it back to the AUTO setting, and surprise surprise, it has been running flawlessly all day.
Now I know that you might think, your overclocking it, you need to up voltage etc, but I have checked all bios settings, voltage, timings and frequency, and they are all at the specified stock settings for the RAM dimms. What confuses me is that I am not overclocking, im restoring stock speeds, and then it crashes. I am not getting BSOD's, the programs just freeze up, and I have to use TaskMan to kill the process every 5 minutes.... Once it has happened that I needed to use the reset button.
I am so confused
help please...
Thanks in advance already!
So, recently I got a new mobo, ram, and gfx card.
The RAM I got was some nice Mushkin DDR3-1600 2x2GB Silverline Stuff.
http://www.advantionline.com/Mushkin-4-GB-2-X-2GB-DDR3-...
Now the problem I have is that the RAM is rated at 1600 Mhz, but at first I noticed in BIOS Post that it runs at only 1333 Mhz. So I ask the guys at the store how to solve this, and they tell me to set the RAM speed at 1600Mhz manually in the BIOS. So I do this, and it works. However, the programs I use most frequently, (Firefox and Just Cause 2) at that moment, seemed to be crashing roundabout every 5 minutes. I had been running in this mode all day, and it was annoying me quite a bit. Now this morning, (it is evening now), I thought, wait a minute, when I first got the RAM, I left it at 1333 for a couple hours, and never had a problem. So you can guess what I did, I turned it back to the AUTO setting, and surprise surprise, it has been running flawlessly all day.
Now I know that you might think, your overclocking it, you need to up voltage etc, but I have checked all bios settings, voltage, timings and frequency, and they are all at the specified stock settings for the RAM dimms. What confuses me is that I am not overclocking, im restoring stock speeds, and then it crashes. I am not getting BSOD's, the programs just freeze up, and I have to use TaskMan to kill the process every 5 minutes.... Once it has happened that I needed to use the reset button.
I am so confused
help please...Thanks in advance already!
More about : ram unstable stock speeds
Quote:
when I first got the RAM, I left it at 1333 for a couple hours, and never had a problemAMD Phenom 2 965 @4Ghz
Cooler Master V8
4GB DDR3-1600 ram
Download and install CPUZ. Check the RAM speed when BIOS is overclocked to 4Ghz. and RAM transfer rate set in BIOS at 1600MHz. If the CPU is overclocked to 4GHz the RAM speed is taken along with it. So if the RAM is set at 1600MHz it is being taken up to increased speeds from there. The likelihood of speeds far above 1600Mhz are occuring and the system crashes occur.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
I will have a look once I get back to my main rig. Actually, right now the CPU is not overclocked to 4Ghz, since I got a new board, and haven't bothered upping the clocks yet, and neither bothered to update that part of my signature... probably should. Either way though, I overclock it solely by upping the multiplier and voltage. For the RAM, I have a setting that lets me choose between a bunch of speeds: 1066, 1333 and 1600 MHz.
I actually never overclock through the base clock, because with my old system I never cared about overclocking my RAM and didn't want to affect it's speeds.
Ill have a CPU-Z when I get back to main rig though
I actually never overclock through the base clock, because with my old system I never cared about overclocking my RAM and didn't want to affect it's speeds.
Ill have a CPU-Z when I get back to main rig though
Best solution
First, boot from Memtest let run for 2 passes - http://www.memtest.org/
BIOS, Load Defaults, CPU OverClocking {Auto} -> {DOCP}, and DRAM O.C. Profile -> {DDR3-1600MHz}.
Installation, I tend to recommend A2/B2 vs A1/B1.
Next, I would recommend the 996744 for your ASUS M4A88TD-M/USB3 http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Blackline/996744.aspx or 996657 http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Blackline/996657.aspx
Otherwise, exchange for 996805 http://www.advantionline.com/Mushkin-4-GB-2-X-2GB-DDR3-...
BIOS, Load Defaults, CPU OverClocking {Auto} -> {DOCP}, and DRAM O.C. Profile -> {DDR3-1600MHz}.
Installation, I tend to recommend A2/B2 vs A1/B1.
Next, I would recommend the 996744 for your ASUS M4A88TD-M/USB3 http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Blackline/996744.aspx or 996657 http://www.mushkin.com/Memory/Blackline/996657.aspx
Otherwise, exchange for 996805 http://www.advantionline.com/Mushkin-4-GB-2-X-2GB-DDR3-...
Related ressources
- My stock 2000Mhz Ram unstable on X58 board. WHY? - Forum
- Computer unstable at stock speed ; fine overclocked - Forum
- PC unstable when setting RAM to stock specs! - Forum
- Computer Unstable on Stock Settings - Forum
- 8800 Unstable At Stock Speeds - Forum
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1488077
Theres a CPU-Z for stock CPU, with RAM set to 1600 MHz in BIOS.
@jaquith, what do you mean by "Installation, I tend to recommend A2/B1 vs A1/B1. "
For as far as I am concerned, this all looks fine, however, I could be wrong..
Theres a CPU-Z for stock CPU, with RAM set to 1600 MHz in BIOS.
@jaquith, what do you mean by "Installation, I tend to recommend A2/B1 vs A1/B1. "
For as far as I am concerned, this all looks fine, however, I could be wrong..
Oh and I let the memtest run for 2 passes, no problem at all.
Also, I noticed that Firefox is no longer crashing so much today. I looked up on it, it seems like it might be because the version I have is known to be unstable with flash on certain machines....
Furthermore, the only thing I still have issues with are games.
One session I can run a game for hours without a problem, another moment it'll crash every 5 minutes. Not a BSOD, just a game freeze up, and depending on the game I can either fix it somehow without killing the process, or I have to kill the process. Once I've had to use the reset button for the first time since 4 years...
I ran furmark on my new card for a good 30 minutes, but everything seems fine, no artifacts. Could it be that the Catalyst 10.10 is just bad?
Graphics card is a new Sapphire HD6870: http://www.advantionline.com/SAPPHIRE-Radeon-HD-6870-1G...
Also, I noticed that Firefox is no longer crashing so much today. I looked up on it, it seems like it might be because the version I have is known to be unstable with flash on certain machines....
Furthermore, the only thing I still have issues with are games.
One session I can run a game for hours without a problem, another moment it'll crash every 5 minutes. Not a BSOD, just a game freeze up, and depending on the game I can either fix it somehow without killing the process, or I have to kill the process. Once I've had to use the reset button for the first time since 4 years...
I ran furmark on my new card for a good 30 minutes, but everything seems fine, no artifacts. Could it be that the Catalyst 10.10 is just bad?
Graphics card is a new Sapphire HD6870: http://www.advantionline.com/SAPPHIRE-Radeon-HD-6870-1G...
N.Broekhuijsen said:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1488077Theres a CPU-Z for stock CPU, with RAM set to 1600 MHz in BIOS.
@jaquith, what do you mean by "Installation, I tend to recommend A2/B12 vs A1/B1. "
For as far as I am concerned, this all looks fine, however, I could be wrong..
It was a typo I meant A2/B2 DIMM slots to install the memory.
Reading the 'crashes' - "IF" the game is a 'hacked' version then -- duh, otherwise run MSCONFIG select Diagnostic and try the game again. Also, IF your PC's AMD Chipsets are running hot then you'll get instability.
Also, D/L and install the latest HD 6870 Drivers - http://www.amd.com/us/Pages/AMDHomePage.aspx
D/L HW Monitor - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Also, D/L and install the latest HD 6870 Drivers - http://www.amd.com/us/Pages/AMDHomePage.aspx
D/L HW Monitor - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Also what do you have the voltage for the RAM set at in BIOS -- the modules you have are rated at 1.55v and the default spec for DDR3 is 1.50v so it might be the voltage is not getting set correctly when running at 1600 so it is not stable at 1600 when gaming but the modules may still be stable at 1333 @ 1.50v --- try manually setting the voltage to 1.55v if you have not done so already.
Ok, I don't mean to be asking the obvious question here, but I gotta feeling that it might be my PSU... however, I never had any problems with my GTX460 before, which I had OCed to as far as I could get it, as well as an OC on my CPU to 4GHz when running Just Cause 2.
PSU is also sucking in air like a beast now, very noisy, whilst before it never was..
PSU is also sucking in air like a beast now, very noisy, whilst before it never was..
Alright guys, so im just having a bit of fun now.... Just decided to run Prime95 and Furmark simoultaniously, and seemingly as soon as I ran prime95 whilst furmark was already running, I noticed drops in the 3D performance... and CCC indicated that the GPU wasn't funning at full activity.
As soon as I OC'ed the CPU to 4Ghz, which always went just fine, I got hardware errors, and after about 2 seconds, I got a bunch of fun yippy lines and pretty shapes running through the screen, followed by a BSOD, and a lovely crash....
and now, as im writing this, I am running prime95 alone, with all the OCs off, running everything stock, and after lets see: about 8 minutes and I get hardware failures on each core...
So,
RAM - Check
GPU - Check
CPU - Maybe faulty
PSU - Maybe faulty, or affecting CPU.
I think honestly though that it is the CPU being close to death, since adding the GPU load on top of it does not affect the time until the system breaks sweat.....
lovely guys.. and here in Bahrain, this is gonna be one stupidly expensive repair...
As soon as I OC'ed the CPU to 4Ghz, which always went just fine, I got hardware errors, and after about 2 seconds, I got a bunch of fun yippy lines and pretty shapes running through the screen, followed by a BSOD, and a lovely crash....
and now, as im writing this, I am running prime95 alone, with all the OCs off, running everything stock, and after lets see: about 8 minutes and I get hardware failures on each core...
So,
RAM - Check
GPU - Check
CPU - Maybe faulty
PSU - Maybe faulty, or affecting CPU.
I think honestly though that it is the CPU being close to death, since adding the GPU load on top of it does not affect the time until the system breaks sweat.....
lovely guys.. and here in Bahrain, this is gonna be one stupidly expensive repair...
RAM - Check
GPU - Check
CPU - Maybe faulty <-- 1/10
PSU - Maybe faulty <-- 6/10
OC - Maybe faulty <-8/10
Suggestion, go to a place with a GOOD return Policy and 'try' a new PSU; I recommend Corsair {Japanese capacitor, Single Rail, over/under & fault protection}. IF you have a faulty PSU that's throwing 'dirty power' at your components you do NOT want to be replacing EVERYTHING... Go now!
Calculate the PSU 'proper' size -> http://www.corsair.com/psufinder/default.aspx
GPU - Check
CPU - Maybe faulty <-- 1/10
PSU - Maybe faulty <-- 6/10
OC - Maybe faulty <-8/10
Suggestion, go to a place with a GOOD return Policy and 'try' a new PSU; I recommend Corsair {Japanese capacitor, Single Rail, over/under & fault protection}. IF you have a faulty PSU that's throwing 'dirty power' at your components you do NOT want to be replacing EVERYTHING... Go now!
Calculate the PSU 'proper' size -> http://www.corsair.com/psufinder/default.aspx
Ok. So I tested the CPU twice at 3.4 Ghz, with everything at factory settings, and everytime after about 10 minutes Prime95 tells me I get hardware errors.
HWmonitor is telling me my voltages are all screwed up, but I have always been getting horrible voltage readings with MWmon, don't really know why...
-12v = 6.08 v
VCore = 3.84 V
amongst the few that are off
???
Anyways CPU-Z gives me a nice 1.386 volts for Vcore, so that seems better.
Anyways faulty OC im sure it isn't, since I ran the tests only once with OC, but now without OC it crashes.
as depressing as it seems, im actually hoping the PSU is dead, since that is the most optimistic situation...
Anyways when I get a chance I'll run by the local store and have a go with another PSU there (I am friends with the guys, so they let me use the hardware at the store without paying
).
so your saying, do not at all use the rig until I go to the store or have another PSU?
(im on my lappy now)
HWmonitor is telling me my voltages are all screwed up, but I have always been getting horrible voltage readings with MWmon, don't really know why...
-12v = 6.08 v
VCore = 3.84 V
amongst the few that are off
???
Anyways CPU-Z gives me a nice 1.386 volts for Vcore, so that seems better.
Anyways faulty OC im sure it isn't, since I ran the tests only once with OC, but now without OC it crashes.
as depressing as it seems, im actually hoping the PSU is dead, since that is the most optimistic situation...
Anyways when I get a chance I'll run by the local store and have a go with another PSU there (I am friends with the guys, so they let me use the hardware at the store without paying
). so your saying, do not at all use the rig until I go to the store or have another PSU?
(im on my lappy now)
I am not OCing. I have my CPU since I got it on the stock speeds for 95% of the time. It is just very occasionally that I OC it, and when I do, I use AMD overdrive, or do it in the BIOS. The only OCing tools I ever use are MSI Afterburner, AMD Overdrive, or just plain BIOS. Never any crap utilities from the vendor
But, should I leave my machine untouched until I get to test another PSU?
But, should I leave my machine untouched until I get to test another PSU?
I have loaded defaults on everything. there is no OC, and NO voltage changes at all.
Everything is at stock, as if it just came out of the factory,
now, normally my voltage is at 1.392, whilst when I stress it it plummets to 1.321 volts. (CPU-Z, so reliable), and it still crashes within 10 minutes. My other voltage readings are also screwed up.
Now I've done plenty of OCing before, and I know that 0.08 volts can make the difference.
On saturday im off to the one and only computer store in this country, and gonna test with another PSU, if that doesnt solve, CPU.
I had a look at the receipt of this PSU, and it is about 2 years, 11 months old... and I've put it through absolute hell over the last 3 years by using it in a lot of different machines, for testing and crap...
Everything is at stock, as if it just came out of the factory,
now, normally my voltage is at 1.392, whilst when I stress it it plummets to 1.321 volts. (CPU-Z, so reliable), and it still crashes within 10 minutes. My other voltage readings are also screwed up.
Now I've done plenty of OCing before, and I know that 0.08 volts can make the difference.
On saturday im off to the one and only computer store in this country, and gonna test with another PSU, if that doesnt solve, CPU.
I had a look at the receipt of this PSU, and it is about 2 years, 11 months old... and I've put it through absolute hell over the last 3 years by using it in a lot of different machines, for testing and crap...
I agree [RE: "0.08 volts can make the difference'] only to the extent of outside normal ranges {example DRAM V ±0.3V~±0.2V rarely cause issues with 'good' RAM} depending upon 'which' voltage you're adjusting. Voltage outside of operational parameters is an entirely different matter.
Clearly, 'faulty' or 'dirty' PSU can easily cause either or both voltage spike and/or drops. I am very picky about PSUs and prefer PSUs as I've already stated.
Good Luck on Saturday!
Clearly, 'faulty' or 'dirty' PSU can easily cause either or both voltage spike and/or drops. I am very picky about PSUs and prefer PSUs as I've already stated.
Good Luck on Saturday!
Just one question about saturday then: If with another PSU the problem is resolved, would this be a good PSU to go for?
Cooler Master Silent Pro M700
http://www.advantionline.com/COOLER-MASTER-Silent-Pro-7...
Or just a list of all the PSU's they have
http://www.advantionline.com/Power-Supplies/
I know that the prices will shock you, (see in dollars below the Dinars), but this is unfortunately the only store in this country where I can get this sort of stuff.
Anyways thanks a lot for helping me out with this. Don't know where I'd be without your help, or tomshardware for that matter.
Cooler Master Silent Pro M700
http://www.advantionline.com/COOLER-MASTER-Silent-Pro-7...
Or just a list of all the PSU's they have
http://www.advantionline.com/Power-Supplies/
I know that the prices will shock you, (see in dollars below the Dinars), but this is unfortunately the only store in this country where I can get this sort of stuff.
Anyways thanks a lot for helping me out with this. Don't know where I'd be without your help, or tomshardware for that matter.
What a LIMITED List!!! Then yes the Cooler Master Silent Pro M700. You need 650W with your CPU/(1)GPU + OC. The CM Pro M700 lack fault protection.
My preference is the Corsair lines, but...I cannot justify the Pro 850.
Specs CM Pro M700: {Japanese capacitor, Single Rail, over/under & fault protection} - http://new.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=4202
My preference is the Corsair lines, but...I cannot justify the Pro 850.
Specs CM Pro M700: {Japanese capacitor, Single Rail, over/under & fault protection} - http://new.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=4202
jaquith said:
No big deal - I don't look for BA option topics.Who says you are getting the BA? JK, but just to be sure I'll wait till after saturday, just in case anything comes up or it doesn't solve the problem... don't want mousemonkey to close the thread just yet. (no offence to you mousemonkey, but we all know you do this
).
Alright guys, dropped off my rig at the store 2 days ago, and tested there on the spot with a new more powerful PSU. Didn't solve the problem.
Now it's either the new Mobo being a bad bake, possibly bad VRMs since my vcore drops significantly under stress, or a CPU gone bad.
these issues started exactly at the moment that I got a new mobo (using same old CPU), so my money is on the mobo.
I left it with the guys to test it though, I CBA to do it myself and they only charge about 12 bucks to do it. If the mobo appears dead, then no charge since its warranty covered.
they should give me a call any moment now to tell me what the problem is.
Now it's either the new Mobo being a bad bake, possibly bad VRMs since my vcore drops significantly under stress, or a CPU gone bad.
these issues started exactly at the moment that I got a new mobo (using same old CPU), so my money is on the mobo.
I left it with the guys to test it though, I CBA to do it myself and they only charge about 12 bucks to do it. If the mobo appears dead, then no charge since its warranty covered.
they should give me a call any moment now to tell me what the problem is.
Alright, well I just got a call from the guys, and they said that they replaced the RAM and now it is working.
Strange though, I didn't get any errors, and they did... must be because weve been testing it at the store and RAM deteriorates like that if it is broken.
Anyways im gonna chuck a heavier PSU in their regardless, since when I run both prime95 and furmark at the same time (yes I know it is overkill) 3D performance comes to a crawl. Now Prime95 uses all unused CPU cycles, so you can have it running in the background and you should not notice any performance impact, and furmark gets all the CPU power it needs.
When I do this it seems that there is not enough power in the system, and the gfx card throttles back I think.
Anyways they are replacing the RAM free of charge since I only bought it about 8 days ago.
Strange though im not used to this from mushkin.
Strange though, I didn't get any errors, and they did... must be because weve been testing it at the store and RAM deteriorates like that if it is broken.
Anyways im gonna chuck a heavier PSU in their regardless, since when I run both prime95 and furmark at the same time (yes I know it is overkill) 3D performance comes to a crawl. Now Prime95 uses all unused CPU cycles, so you can have it running in the background and you should not notice any performance impact, and furmark gets all the CPU power it needs.
When I do this it seems that there is not enough power in the system, and the gfx card throttles back I think.
Anyways they are replacing the RAM free of charge since I only bought it about 8 days ago.
Strange though im not used to this from mushkin.
How much do you trust these guys ?? --- I'd definitely ask them to give me back the old ram in any case !! -- Might be they swapped out the MOBO (and will file a warranty repair) but then also want to make some $ from you so are saying it was the ram to sell you some new modules ! (do you have the Serial # from the MOBO written down somewhere so you can check if they replaced it ? )
No I got the ram at the same time as I got the mobo and new gfx card. I got all three at the same time and started getting issues.
They are just replacing the ram with identical new sticks, covered by warranty so no big deal there.
I did keep all the receipts and yes I will check to be sure if the did not replace anything I did not "authorize".
I trust these guys in that aspect, it is just very hard for me to trust someone else with servicing my own computer, but I'll live. Im sure you know the feeling.
anyways I'll keep you updated.
Now time to return my brand new SGS to the store I bought it from... and they have one stupid return policy, refund only in gift coupon form...
WTF am I gonna do with a 730 US Dollar gift voucher that is not exchangeable for cash?
They are just replacing the ram with identical new sticks, covered by warranty so no big deal there.
I did keep all the receipts and yes I will check to be sure if the did not replace anything I did not "authorize".
I trust these guys in that aspect, it is just very hard for me to trust someone else with servicing my own computer, but I'll live. Im sure you know the feeling.
anyways I'll keep you updated.
Now time to return my brand new SGS to the store I bought it from... and they have one stupid return policy, refund only in gift coupon form...
WTF am I gonna do with a 730 US Dollar gift voucher that is not exchangeable for cash?
SGS= Samsung Galaxy S
Yes I know I paid too much for it but welcome to bahrain!
Not to mention,I bough this phone at one of those "noob" stores, which doesn't sell loose parts. Could go for monitors though, have considered eyefinity before, scrapped it because of a broken 5870. With my knew 6870 though, could do so.
this is a nice way to be forced into eyefinity!
Im just thinking of what to buy.... ill need to buy like 3 24 inch screens in order to spend that much here and still have left over.
screens are dirt cheap here, phones and loose pc parts are not.....
Yes I know I paid too much for it but welcome to bahrain!
Not to mention,I bough this phone at one of those "noob" stores, which doesn't sell loose parts. Could go for monitors though, have considered eyefinity before, scrapped it because of a broken 5870. With my knew 6870 though, could do so.
this is a nice way to be forced into eyefinity!
Im just thinking of what to buy.... ill need to buy like 3 24 inch screens in order to spend that much here and still have left over.
screens are dirt cheap here, phones and loose pc parts are not.....
IF you do go the Eyefinity route just remember - To enable support for more than 2 monitors, “active” DisplayPort™ adapters/dongles are required (or monitors with direct DisplayPort™ connectivity must be used). And the Active adapters/dongles run about $100 US. so if buying monitors you might want to get at least one that already has direct displayPort connectivity (while those monitors are more expensive they are usually better quality and the price difference is made up by not needing the active adapter !)
Hmm...I would recommend CF with 2-HD 6870 with 3 screens, otherwise on many games the frame rates drop-off too slow. I have both 2 & 3 screens; 3 for gaming and 2 screens for work. I tried 3 screens and 'to me' is was too distracting. Right now 2 screens: Work @ center + Forum @ right {typically Work screen2}. Tried-> | Email | Work | Server | and drove me nuts. ...Some of my staff likes 3 screens.
I'd love to xfire 2 6870's, but im running a uATX system, in a uATX case. I know tis possible, just need to find the right mobo for it, which I can't find here.
A friend of mine is running it on a single 5850, and he says its fine, but his expectations aren't very high... I need buttersmooth always.
Probably won't do eyefinity though, its just a matter of what happens at the store tomorrow and how much of a bitch the store is gonna be about cash return.
A friend of mine is running it on a single 5850, and he says its fine, but his expectations aren't very high... I need buttersmooth always.
Probably won't do eyefinity though, its just a matter of what happens at the store tomorrow and how much of a bitch the store is gonna be about cash return.
Alright guys,
Just got my rig back yesterday, been installing windows on it.
They tested the RAM and found it to be faulty, so somebody deserves a BA.
Furthermore after they replaced the RAM the system failed to boot properly from a cold boot, a warm boot worked though. They also reinstalled windows to see if the install went bad, but the problem remained. At that point they decided that it was either the SSD that had gone toast, or the Mobo, and basically they could not be bothered to test both, so they just replaced both with new ones.
I checked out all the paper work and it all seems to be up to scratch and legit.
Furthermore just to be sure I bought the Silent Pro M700, and replaced that at home. I did this just to be sure, however, my voltage readings on HWmonitor are still screwed up. My guess is that I just have a 2yr old version of HWmon, so that doesn't really help....
Anyways the whole system is running perfectly stable now, however, they screwed up my sound card. I've now got a really annoying hiss in the background (also in digital mode which I use ALL the time) and it keeps on cutting up the sound, suddenly for .5 second I don't get any sound and then it comes back. My amp also shows no digital input at that time. After half a second it will come back, then go away and on and well its really quite random and very agitating....
What do I do? Bring it back to them? I never bought the card from them...
Just got my rig back yesterday, been installing windows on it.
They tested the RAM and found it to be faulty, so somebody deserves a BA.
Furthermore after they replaced the RAM the system failed to boot properly from a cold boot, a warm boot worked though. They also reinstalled windows to see if the install went bad, but the problem remained. At that point they decided that it was either the SSD that had gone toast, or the Mobo, and basically they could not be bothered to test both, so they just replaced both with new ones.
I checked out all the paper work and it all seems to be up to scratch and legit.
Furthermore just to be sure I bought the Silent Pro M700, and replaced that at home. I did this just to be sure, however, my voltage readings on HWmonitor are still screwed up. My guess is that I just have a 2yr old version of HWmon, so that doesn't really help....
Anyways the whole system is running perfectly stable now, however, they screwed up my sound card. I've now got a really annoying hiss in the background (also in digital mode which I use ALL the time) and it keeps on cutting up the sound, suddenly for .5 second I don't get any sound and then it comes back. My amp also shows no digital input at that time. After half a second it will come back, then go away and on and well its really quite random and very agitating....
What do I do? Bring it back to them? I never bought the card from them...
Since you say they reinstalled windows - the sound problem night be either a codec or driver issue (try updating the driver for the sound card) and then also try downloading and installing the K-lite Codec pack (it is a set of codecs that will playback pretty much any format audio\video file and all have been tested to work together) -- Also while at it check n your sound manager and mute any channels you are not using (ie. if not using a mic and that channel is open it can pick up distortions that get played back as background noise)
Ok. Well I don't know what has been happening lately, but this machine is finally working perfectly again.
First the soundcard issue, then the next day I got the strange "cold boot" issue the guys in the store had. I force turned the machine off, and started it up again and it all worked, including sound card no problems.... strange.
This morning I started up my machine without any problems, and everything works fine. I don't know if I will get any new problems or if these problems will come back, but for now I think it's time to put an end to this thread.
I'll BA on Memory issues!
Hey thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it!
Cheerz
First the soundcard issue, then the next day I got the strange "cold boot" issue the guys in the store had. I force turned the machine off, and started it up again and it all worked, including sound card no problems.... strange.
This morning I started up my machine without any problems, and everything works fine. I don't know if I will get any new problems or if these problems will come back, but for now I think it's time to put an end to this thread.
I'll BA on Memory issues!
Hey thanks a lot for the help guys, I really appreciate it!
Cheerz
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