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TEC/Peltier CPU Chilled Water Cooling - Page 5

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  • Overclocking
  • Water Cooling
  • Product
  • Below Ambient Cooling
  • CPUs
  • Cooling
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a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
December 19, 2013 9:15:11 AM

Well I starting to get there, I have finished the radiator module upgrades, it now has all metal fitting and strong hoses so that it can withstand the extreme temps of the TEC’s



The only concern I have left with this unit is weather the pump handle the temps, or if I will need to upgrade the pump to a high temp chemical pump. There not too bad on price, only $180 so it is doable, if this pump can’t cut it.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
December 28, 2013 7:06:55 AM

So you intend water cooling the hot side of the peltiers?

It can be done with a really good air cooler, why waste all that hardware attempting to water cool them?

Don't see any peltier assembly, of any kind or configuration, in your picture?

Did you post the wrong picture?
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
December 28, 2013 8:10:03 AM

No that is only a radiator module then there is the case module and the last will be the TEC module

the TEC module uses those little copper rads attached to the TEC's hot side and a CPU water block attached to the cold side the copper rads get hot but the water only gets to 80C I have a big 200mm fan cooling all the little copper rads too. but the system is not ready to connect and show off yet still have some control issues to work out, thinking of using a 3-way parallel system on the CPU blocks to mix the water because at idol I only need one small TEC to cool the entire system while at load I need 3 TEC's to cool the system down, let you know how it turns out, and if this will be the final configuration for this module or back to the drawing board and try something else.
Related resources
December 29, 2013 12:53:07 PM

Oh man, I'm almost giving up setting this up. When I find the required hardware, it's very expensive, when I find it to buy from ebay and such, it's not delivered here or it costs the same as the products. The government has raised the tax on international buys from 0.38% to 6.38%, I have a limit of $50 dollars and if the package is held by the customs for checking, I must pay as much as 60% of it's price in taxes (and believe me, after all that, sometimes it's cheaper by 1/3 than buying it here).

I'm kind of pissed off of living in this shit pound.
December 29, 2013 1:09:37 PM

Just an example... let's say I want to buy one used TRUE heatsink:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermalright-Ultra-120-Extreme-...

It costs 39.99 + 43.05 shipping = $83

Add 6.38% for intl shop = $88.33

Then custom's 60% = $93.63

And convert it to BR Real = $93.63 * 2.35 = 220,05

So, for a $40 piece (roughly R$94) I get to pay R$ 220,05. This, because of our incompetent government wich does not promote science and research, but drives a consumption-based economy of internal products and taxes everything that comes from the foreign or else the local economy would ruin.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
December 30, 2013 3:50:54 AM

@kauedg

Where do you live to face those additional prices?
December 30, 2013 7:05:39 PM

4Ryan6 said:
@kauedg

Where do you live to face those additional prices?


Brazil
December 31, 2013 8:00:11 PM

Ryan I had a thought and wanted to get some opinions on it before I wen't out and spent the cash on it, and being a fan of your thread I thought you might be able to give some advice.

I've been thinking about the buried copper idea(great but alot of work) or the toilet idea(I think I could make it work but pain in the butt) or even making a slush box outta a cold water line and a drain...then I got to thinking-

It's winter time. It doesn't quite freeze where I live(Las Vegas) but it does get into the upper 30's/lower 40's every night. High of mid 60's..meaning the ambient temperature has a great average in the lower 50's or so.

I also have a swimming pool in the back yard, that doesn't freeze. I figure it holds around 10,000 gallons of about 40 degree water. I was thinking of running a supply and return to and from the pool(maybe the deep part?Might take some experimentation) and cycling that through a heat exchanger feeding my cooling loop.

I really can't see the 200-300 watts of heat my computer puts out having much of an effect on that much water. Passing it through a heat exchanger would prevent any contaminates from entering the loop, and of course no heat exchanger is 100 percent efficient so the delta will be a bit higher. Obviously would need something like a pond pump(or maybe 2 in series?) to get enough head.

Sound like a plan or am I wastin my time?(before I waste my money?)
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 1, 2014 2:16:59 AM

kermdawg said:
Ryan I had a thought and wanted to get some opinions on it before I wen't out and spent the cash on it, and being a fan of your thread I thought you might be able to give some advice.

I've been thinking about the buried copper idea(great but alot of work) or the toilet idea(I think I could make it work but pain in the butt) or even making a slush box outta a cold water line and a drain...then I got to thinking-

It's winter time. It doesn't quite freeze where I live(Las Vegas) but it does get into the upper 30's/lower 40's every night. High of mid 60's..meaning the ambient temperature has a great average in the lower 50's or so.

I also have a swimming pool in the back yard, that doesn't freeze. I figure it holds around 10,000 gallons of about 40 degree water. I was thinking of running a supply and return to and from the pool(maybe the deep part?Might take some experimentation) and cycling that through a heat exchanger feeding my cooling loop.

I really can't see the 200-300 watts of heat my computer puts out having much of an effect on that much water. Passing it through a heat exchanger would prevent any contaminates from entering the loop, and of course no heat exchanger is 100 percent efficient so the delta will be a bit higher. Obviously would need something like a pond pump(or maybe 2 in series?) to get enough head.

Sound like a plan or am I wasting my time?(before I waste my money?)


Sounds feasible to me, if you used a high flow round tube radiator as the heat exchanger in the bottom of the pool, the flow restriction would be lessened.

Most of the Watercool brand rads are round tube.

You would need an inline pump to keep all contaminants out of the system, unless I'm misunderstanding your concept?

Whoa, So you want to transfer the cold water from the bottom of the pool to an exchange point closer to the home, is that your intention?

How far is the pool from where you would need the cold water to enter the home?

You would need to insulate the water lines from the pool so daytime sunlight would not effect their cooling.

At first I was imagining just dropping a rad into the deep end of the pool, but I don't think that is your plan, please explain exactly what your concept is so I can get on the same thought page as you?



January 1, 2014 5:58:54 AM

Basically your kinda using the pool like a cooling pond, ala a power plant. You would pump the pool water itself up to your computer where a heat exchanger would transfer the heat from your computer loop to the pool water before the pool water would run back down into the pool(preferably as far away from the intake as possible).

I've seen a couple concepts similar to this but the one's I've seen are MUCH more extravagent.

I live in a 2 story house, but my computer is next to the exterior wall adjacent to the pool(sucks in the summer cause the wall faces west, getting the pull brunt of the hot las vegas sun). I figure it's 20 foot at the most to where my computer sits on my desk, plus the 10 feet to the bottom of the pool...gonna need a pump(or two in series) capable of 30 foot of head.

Yes the exterior lines will definately need to be insulated...its a shame I can't run them underground or up the wall in the house(I COULD but my landlord wouldn't like it)

From the edge of the pool to the exterior wall of the house is less than 10 feet. Again though, I gotta get it UP to the second floor.

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 1, 2014 8:49:58 AM

30' of head lift is definitely a serious pump alone, even 2 is running into some bucks for just a wintertime project, are you sure you want to go this route?

Being on the 2nd floor of your home adds some serious challenge and you'd want quality pumps that will last and they aren't cheap, you could lift from the pool bottom to a staging station box containing the 2nd pump to lift from there to your heat exchange box.

Have you considered what you intend to invest in this possible project?
January 1, 2014 9:34:16 AM

4Ryan6 said:
30' of head lift is definitely a serious pump alone, even 2 is running into some bucks for just a wintertime project, are you sure you want to go this route?

Being on the 2nd floor of your home adds some serious challenge and you'd want quality pumps that will last and they aren't cheap, you could lift from the pool bottom to a staging station box containing the 2nd pump to lift from there to your heat exchange box.

Have you considered what you intend to invest in this possible project?


Ya thats what I'm still considering. Sucks that the pool pumps are on the other side of the yard(probably 50 feet away) But I think I could still route a line around the pool to one of the pumps and tie it in, thus only needing one pump.

I guess it sounds like something I could research further. Ill see if I can figure a cheap way to move water up 30 feet or so...it's windy enough here, maybe a windmill to pump it up to a tank on the roof? lol.

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 5, 2014 4:17:12 AM

kermdawg said:
4Ryan6 said:
30' of head lift is definitely a serious pump alone, even 2 is running into some bucks for just a wintertime project, are you sure you want to go this route?

Being on the 2nd floor of your home adds some serious challenge and you'd want quality pumps that will last and they aren't cheap, you could lift from the pool bottom to a staging station box containing the 2nd pump to lift from there to your heat exchange box.

Have you considered what you intend to invest in this possible project?


Ya thats what I'm still considering. Sucks that the pool pumps are on the other side of the yard(probably 50 feet away) But I think I could still route a line around the pool to one of the pumps and tie it in, thus only needing one pump.

I guess it sounds like something I could research further. Ill see if I can figure a cheap way to move water up 30 feet or so...it's windy enough here, maybe a windmill to pump it up to a tank on the roof? lol.



A windmill?

If you think pumps are expensive an actual water pumping windmill has got to be expensive?

What happens on a still day, with zero wind blowing?

By the time you invest what it will take to put your idea into actual operation you could have built a TEC cooling setup from scratch that is covered in this thread, for less money.

The peltier electrical cost at 12v dc would probably be much less than 2 120v lift pumps running constantly as well, and the peltiers yield below ambient room temperature, even through the summer when the pool trick becomes useless.

Just something for you to ponder.

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 5, 2014 6:37:58 AM

It has come to my attention that the Swiftech Apogee XTL water block is now a discontinued product as far as Swiftech is concerned, which was the perfect water block to modify for a peltier sized 50mm x 50mm.

Swiftech still produces the Apogee HD and this is the cheapest price I could find on it.

The copper base is exactly the same as the XTL, and the top can be modified for flow the same as the XTL as well, it's just more expensive than the XTL was.

The XSPC Rasa can be used on a 50mm x 50mm as well but would be better if a 40mm x 40mm peltier were used on it, but I used a Rasa on a 50mm x 50mm myself in the beginning and it worked well, Performance-PCs still has the Rasa at a great price.

Performance-PCs also still carries the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme heat pipe cooler which is used to cool the hot side of the peltier, and the 110cfm Scythe Slip Stream 120mm fans, at very reasonable prices as well.

I hope all of you are having a wonderful New Year!

The very Best to all of You! Ry
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 5, 2014 7:04:45 AM

Plans for this thread coming in 2014 are posting a detailed parts list with lowest prices available, duplicating this cooling performance solution.

I also have an idea in the brain pan for a new insulated reservoir I am intending to build, it will have much greater cold retention but be the same volume contained, and will have detailed build with pictures to share, of it's entire construction and it's cost.

Since my present peltier setup is now past a year in operation, I will be running some more experimentation testing, along these same successful lines attempting to shrink the size of the cooling setup, and any successful discoveries will be shared.

My goals this year will be more regarding looks and outward appearance, that anyone would be proud to have displayed in their home, I may even house it all in one large case, IDK at this point so we'll see on that one.

But this project is far from over and the best may very well be yet to come!
January 12, 2014 5:12:26 PM

So just a little update on my little project.

I managed to find a shallow-well jet pump, with a pressure tank, at harbor freight for 110 bucks. Good for 95 feet of head, and 22 foot of suction-both overkill :) 

I was thinking of having it pump up to some kind of tank, and just let the water slowly drain out, so that fresh, cold water is constantly being feed into it-kinda like a worm barrel/condenser for making alcohol. Maybe just submerge the radiator itself into the tank, negating the need for an expensive heat exchanger(for now, a more permanent setup would definately require a heat exchanger)

I've seen setups for solar heat exchangers that basically put a big coil of pipe into a similar tank setup...maybe the water in the cpu loop could just be circulated through the loop in the tank? Wouldn't need a radiator at all then.

Edit-Found possibly a better pump for this setup, 12 volt dc with 35 foot max head for 40 dollars.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 12, 2014 10:12:45 PM

kermdawg said:
So just a little update on my little project.

I managed to find a shallow-well jet pump, with a pressure tank, at harbor freight for 110 bucks. Good for 95 feet of head, and 22 foot of suction-both overkill :) 

I was thinking of having it pump up to some kind of tank, and just let the water slowly drain out, so that fresh, cold water is constantly being feed into it-kinda like a worm barrel/condenser for making alcohol. Maybe just submerge the radiator itself into the tank, negating the need for an expensive heat exchanger(for now, a more permanent setup would definately require a heat exchanger)

I've seen setups for solar heat exchangers that basically put a big coil of pipe into a similar tank setup...maybe the water in the cpu loop could just be circulated through the loop in the tank? Wouldn't need a radiator at all then.

Edit-Found possibly a better pump for this setup, 12 volt dc with 35 foot max head for 40 dollars.


Sounds like you are really getting serious about this but I do have one question and that is what happens with this setup mid summer when the pool water is around 85f, if you have high overclocking intentions you may not have the cooling you really would need?

In the winter this idea rocks, what backup provisions are you considering that will allow this to be a year round cooling solution?

Don't take me wrong I am not trying to discourage you.

That said, some of our best ideas as human beings come to us in our planning and exploring ideas, we may stumble on discoveries in our quests we never even considered before, and that was from following a idea path that led to our discoveries.

For myself I had already bought half the parts to build a bong type evaporative cooler, and was on my way to the store to buy the rest when I remembered an alternative cooling solution a friend of mine had experimented with, using a styrofoam cooler and ice and water, which for me led to the exploring below ambient water cooling thread.

Discarding the bong cooler idea, and returning the parts I had bought back to the store, since then it's been one step after another of tried ideas, some worked and some didn't, until I discovered this present peltier chilled water cooling, so any ideas you undertake will lead to some great discoveries I'm sure!

January 13, 2014 3:47:48 PM

Ryan-Thanks for the encouragement! You have no idea what that means to an aspiring tinkerer/wanna be inventor like myself. Everyone else just seems to think I'm crazy! ESPECIALLY the wife! Instead of the "Why?" type of person, I'm really more of the "Why the hell not??" kind of guy. I guess it's just wanting something that I built myself, is unique, and I can take pride in.

As for summer time, since I've been wondering about that myself for the 8 months out of the year its not 40 degrees but closer to 140 degrees outside-I was thinking about adapting something like this. It's ancient technology used in the middle east for thousands of years to cool their homes. Basically a primitive swamp cooler.

Also, the realization has come to me that perhaps a much better(and cheaper) source of cold water is from the house plumbing itself. It's buried about 3 foot deep( I just had to dig up the sewer main to fix it, and low and behold I stumbled across the water main as well) and should remain between 40-60 degrees year round..not quite as cold in the winter, but much cooler than the pool water in the summer. Plus, no pump needed to bring water up the side of the house.

Same concept would apply(I'm a plumber so no problem with the craftwork involved), would just need to figure out the drain...either running a drain outside and down into the pool or back into the bathroom sink drain(they make a Y fitting just for condensate drains...this would be perfect)

Plus side is, anyone with running water and a bit of plumbing experience could potentially install a system like this as well.


a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
January 13, 2014 5:18:00 PM

kermdawg said:
Ryan-Thanks for the encouragement! You have no idea what that means to an aspiring tinkerer/wanna be inventor like myself. Everyone else just seems to think I'm crazy! ESPECIALLY the wife! Instead of the "Why?" type of person, I'm really more of the "Why the hell not??" kind of guy. I guess it's just wanting something that I built myself, is unique, and I can take pride in.

As for summer time, since I've been wondering about that myself for the 8 months out of the year its not 40 degrees but closer to 140 degrees outside-I was thinking about adapting something like this. It's ancient technology used in the middle east for thousands of years to cool their homes. Basically a primitive swamp cooler.

Also, the realization has come to me that perhaps a much better(and cheaper) source of cold water is from the house plumbing itself. It's buried about 3 foot deep( I just had to dig up the sewer main to fix it, and low and behold I stumbled across the water main as well) and should remain between 40-60 degrees year round..not quite as cold in the winter, but much cooler than the pool water in the summer. Plus, no pump needed to bring water up the side of the house.

Same concept would apply(I'm a plumber so no problem with the craftwork involved), would just need to figure out the drain...either running a drain outside and down into the pool or back into the bathroom sink drain(they make a Y fitting just for condensate drains...this would be perfect)

Plus side is, anyone with running water and a bit of plumbing experience could potentially install a system like this as well.




maybe I should have my father( whose also a plumber) run a geo thermal system for my loop haha. free energy basically but idk how well it would work though haha

i may need to venture back into this if I can get my over clock higher
January 13, 2014 6:32:39 PM

Quote:
"maybe I should have my father( whose also a plumber) run a geo thermal system for my loop haha. free energy basically but idk how well it would work though haha

i may need to venture back into this if I can get my over clock higher "


Geothermal systems are WAY beyond plumbing bro. From what I've looked into, true geothermal systems involving drilling a loop several dozen, if not hundreds of feet down into the earth. Not very cost effective at any rate.

From the relatively minute wattage that a processor(or a CPU and a few GPU's) put out, I believe burying your loop 4-5 feet would be pretty sufficient. Remember, the earth is the best insulator known to man, basically because of its mass-it takes ALOT of heat to cause a temperature change in that much mass. Couple that with appropriate insulation and you might be able to make something work...most of your expense would be labor, and you can get that for free....right?!?

You ever dig a hole in the ground?I mean a DEEP one? (I have, lots of grease traps, sewer/water mains...some of these things are 10 feet deep or more). When your down there on a hot day (100degrees plus) the dirt around you is pretty darn cool to the touch.

And lastly, I'm not sure the temperature delta this is capable of yet. Just because we have a good source of cold water doesn't mean your loop will get to that temperature..depends on the efficiency of the water blocks and the heat exchanger. That'll be the true test to determine weather or not this is worth anyone else's time (and money)

I'm thinking the "weak link" so to speak is going to be the CPU water block. Also, since I'm running Ivy Bridge, I'm thinking about doing a couple test runs, first stock, second lapped IHS, third lapped IHS/delidded.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 14, 2014 2:23:12 AM

kermdawg said:
Ryan-Thanks for the encouragement! You have no idea what that means to an aspiring tinkerer/wanna be inventor like myself. Everyone else just seems to think I'm crazy! ESPECIALLY the wife! Instead of the "Why?" type of person, I'm really more of the "Why the hell not??" kind of guy. I guess it's just wanting something that I built myself, is unique, and I can take pride in.

As for summer time, since I've been wondering about that myself for the 8 months out of the year its not 40 degrees but closer to 140 degrees outside-I was thinking about adapting something like this. It's ancient technology used in the middle east for thousands of years to cool their homes. Basically a primitive swamp cooler.

Also, the realization has come to me that perhaps a much better(and cheaper) source of cold water is from the house plumbing itself. It's buried about 3 foot deep( I just had to dig up the sewer main to fix it, and low and behold I stumbled across the water main as well) and should remain between 40-60 degrees year round..not quite as cold in the winter, but much cooler than the pool water in the summer. Plus, no pump needed to bring water up the side of the house.

Same concept would apply(I'm a plumber so no problem with the craftwork involved), would just need to figure out the drain...either running a drain outside and down into the pool or back into the bathroom sink drain(they make a Y fitting just for condensate drains...this would be perfect)

Plus side is, anyone with running water and a bit of plumbing experience could potentially install a system like this as well.




ArthurH ran tap water cooling a long time, he ran his output down the drain, but seeing as how you have a pool that always suffers from sun evaporation you could drain to the pool with zero guilt.

I never ran that cooling because I just couldn't see wasting the water and running it down the drain, but you constantly have to add fresh water to a pool, it's a fact of pool life, so it really wouldn't be wasted directly down the drain and you would get cooling use of it before it got to the pool.

The one problem ArthurH encountered was the effect of his municipal treated water and the effect it had inside his CPU water block, it was actually corroding the copper inside the water block, now that may not even happen with your supply line as the treatment process may be totally different than what they use where he lives.

It's not something to be overly concerned with as you could count the water block as expendable and just keep and eye on it for any type negative water effects, I recommend the XSPC Raystorm water block as it has a copper base plate and an acetal top, the top itself is pretty much resistant to just about anything, and it is an excellent cooling performer water block.

Maybe ArthurH will stop by and give you some tips as he has the most actual experience running tap water cooling here.

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
January 14, 2014 2:59:50 AM

06yfz450ridr said:
maybe I should have my father( whose also a plumber) run a geo thermal system for my loop haha. free energy basically but idk how well it would work though haha

i may need to venture back into this if I can get my over clock higher


It's a lot more involved than you may realize!

That's something I have also considered but I was going to have to go down at least 12' where I live in South Carolina and after working so hard to get a nice yard covered in grass I just couldn't see digging it up to cool my computer.

My wife already thinks I'm totally nuts for the cooling experiments I've already run, so some of them I don't even let her know about, but digging up my back yard first off will not be done by hand, it would take a backhoe, and it would be kinda hard to hide it from her.

"What the hell are you doing?" I'm digging a hole dear, "Obviously!" what's it for?"

Trying to explain the next part would probably get me committed! :lol: 

It would have been nice if I had thought about ground thermal cooling when we first moved out where we are now, as there was a backhoe on site that was used for the septic tank installation, I can run one and could have dug it out myself, but back then, my computer was the last thing on my mind.

There are many options available today to get you cooling lower than any radiators can reach and still be above the condensation point, but sadly it's all in Do It Yourself territory.



February 23, 2014 8:27:09 PM

Hi everyone, I've been reading over the past week over this thread, and registered specifically for this thread.
I have thought about how to do a watercooling TEC setup now, I'm looking to do a below ambient setup like yours (4ryan6) and would like to have some input from you guys. While this is all theoritical so far I'd like to put this experiment into fruition sometime in the future when I have all the parts and numbers set.

So far

This is what I'm looking to do and would like your input on how viable it is
wb = waterblock


fx9590------------Formula Z-------------r90x
CPU----------------Mobo---------------- GPU
WB==>==>==>=WB==>==>==>==WB==>pump/res
TEC 245w
WB==>==2x140-rad==>==1x120-rad==>==2x120mm rad==>pump/res
HS(heatsink for the extra cooling and backup)

The Waterblock will go on the CPU which will have the TEC and another waterblock ontop of that, along with the heatsink.



I'm having a hard time doing the math, but my few questions are
1-is there enough cooling to for the TEC hotside?
2-will the TEC provide enough to cool the CPU/mobo/GPU?
3-would i need another TEC to keep it at a steady 10C~15C?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
February 24, 2014 2:28:46 AM

1) As long as it is a high quality heat pipe air cooler to cool the hot side of the TEC, I tried cooling the hot side with a rad and it did not work and some at overclock.net said I was using too small a radiator to do it, as I was using a 240GTX Black Ice rad, it's much cheaper just to put a heat pipe air cooler on it with a 110cfm cooling fan to cool the hot side.

Heat Pipe Air Cooler

Scythe 120mm 110cfm Cooling Fan

2) No absolutely not! :pfff: 

Cool the CPU with the TEC assembly using an insulated reservoir to store the cold it produces.

Cool the GPU with it's own separate loop using a Traditional Radiator/Pump/Reservoir/Water Block, assembly.

Most don't even worry about water cooling the Mobo but if you do include it into the GPU loop, not the CPU loop.

3) It depends on how far you intend overclocking the CPU, if your overclock target is as high as 5ghz then you will need two peltiers.

For more information of what did and did not work that I experimented with there's a link at the beginning of this thread to the Exploring Below Ambient Cooling thread and about 2/3rds through that thread the peltier experiments begin to show up, check it out as well.
February 24, 2014 12:50:45 PM

Back to more reading, I'm on page 4 of the Below Ambiet Cooling thread. I've been reading more on TEC's in general as well.

"The Waterblock will go on the CPU which will have the TEC and another waterblock ontop of that, along with the heatsink."

i was looking to making a block that consisted of the waterblock/TEC/Heatsink/waterblock all-in-one for the CPU,

What my goals are for this build would be:

1)low noise
i'll add more rad/low rpm fans if I have to

2)low CPU/GPU temps

3)compact~ (fit all into a mid tower)

I'm having some troubles wrapping my head around some of the stuff such as the peltier temperature difference.

here's an example.

cpu temp = 60C

peltier temp difference of 66Cs~

Theoretically cpu would be -6 and the hotside be 126C without all the factors of resistance and what not.
That's how I'm thinking it works, but doesn't seem to be correct.

For the cpu to remain at 15C, what would the temperatures be on the hotside?

I'm also looking at making a voltage regulator to control the peltier temps.
Running 2xTEC's regulated should be enough to cool both CPU/GPU water loop.
Reservoirs would be small on both hotside and cold side to be able fit inside the case.


a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
February 25, 2014 2:46:45 AM

oroboros86 said:
Back to more reading, I'm on page 4 of the Below Ambiet Cooling thread. I've been reading more on TEC's in general as well.

"The Waterblock will go on the CPU which will have the TEC and another waterblock ontop of that, along with the heatsink."

i was looking to making a block that consisted of the waterblock/TEC/Heatsink/waterblock all-in-one for the CPU,

What my goals are for this build would be:

1)low noise
i'll add more rad/low rpm fans if I have to

2)low CPU/GPU temps

3)compact~ (fit all into a mid tower)

I'm having some troubles wrapping my head around some of the stuff such as the peltier temperature difference.

here's an example.

cpu temp = 60C

peltier temp difference of 66Cs~

Theoretically cpu would be -6 and the hotside be 126C without all the factors of resistance and what not.
That's how I'm thinking it works, but doesn't seem to be correct.

For the cpu to remain at 15C, what would the temperatures be on the hotside?

I'm also looking at making a voltage regulator to control the peltier temps.
Running 2xTEC's regulated should be enough to cool both CPU/GPU water loop.
Reservoirs would be small on both hotside and cold side to be able fit inside the case.




You're going to discover that the theoretical and pure logic regarding a peltier does not always work because of the peltiers finickyness of only constantly producing a useable cold temperature if the peltier HOT~COLD stays in the zone.

Meaning if the peltier HOT side gets too hot the peltier stalls, if the peltier COLD side gets too cold the peltier stalls, and that's a bad thing! :pfff: 

The peltier itself is only about an eighth of an inch thick so too much HOT side heat can warm the COLD side temperature so the cold output is not useable and it throws the peltier into a stall and does not produce useable cold, the exact same happens in the opposite direction if the COLD side gets too cold it affects the HOT side, so you have to find a balance so neither side is overridden, then you can get useable cold side output you can store in an insulated reservoir to use to cool the CPU.

There is no getting around that information I just shared with you, so it has to be factored into you setup, which means you will not get an entire peltier cooling setup inside one case, unless you insulate the motherboard and go for a direct mount, and this thread is not about that kind of setup.

I am running a two case setup, one case houses all the computer and only the cooling tubes enter the case, the other houses all the cooling, it is jumped to start up when the computer starts.

Trying to water cool the 245w 26a , peltier HOT side with a water block did not work for me, because all you have to cool it is ambient room air, the radiator got so hot I couldn't lay my hand on it, and that begins releasing heat into the case, get the picture?

The heat actually caused premature pump failure, so if you are determined to go that route Good Luck To You!

Remember this!

What this peltier thread covers works 100% proven and in operation now for 1 year and 2 months, and is also now duplicated by another forum member ArthurH and is working for him with almost identical results as mine.



February 25, 2014 12:20:46 PM

I'm just determined to get everything to fit into a mid tower case.

WELLLL, back to the drawing board, I'm trying to figure out all the calculations for both hot and cold side, figuring the case out, voltage/temperature regulating the TEC voltage, and radiator setup for the case.
I'll be back with pictures and schematics!
February 26, 2014 2:42:39 AM

I'm a retard, reading on further on the other thread, I'm now understanding why the radiator cooling the hotside isn't going to work. Ugh, Stubbornness! Back to the drawing board again...
a c 249 K Overclocking
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February 26, 2014 2:51:52 AM

oroboros86 said:
I'm just determined to get everything to fit into a mid tower case.

WELLLL, back to the drawing board, I'm trying to figure out all the calculations for both hot and cold side, figuring the case out, voltage/temperature regulating the TEC voltage, and radiator setup for the case.
I'll be back with pictures and schematics!


Calculations may not be as satisfying and accurate regarding peltiers because in some respects they defy logic.

Calculation wise I had many at overclock.net informing me that a heat pipe air cooler could not cool the peltier hot side according to their calculations.

It boiled down to, "What about 100% operational do you not understand!", for them to finally back off the, it won't work because of our calculations. :) 

I did do some experimentation using smaller more compact air coolers like the solid copper server style coolers but they retain too much heat and that is bad, and use high speed 60mm cooling fans and that is bad as well, there are very good reasons servers are usually located in sealed rooms as they're extremely LOUD and high pitched irritating!

My next test was going to be low profile heat pipe air coolers like the AMD variants but I did not get to that testing yet, so they may work and save vertical mounting space?

Something like this maybe?

Or one similar? IDK?

I'll eventually test in that area, but I ran short of testing funds as other things were of higher priority, and since the present solution works just fine there wasn't much need for myself.

Just some possibilities for your consideration.

Edit Note: Peltier clamping pressure is very important and also needs to be in your planning, you will not be spring pressure mounting a peltier, as most clamping setups allow for, they will have to be direct screw mounted with about 100psi clamping pressure, something else for you to think about.

Look at the pictures in the beginning of this thread to see how mine are clamped together, clamping pressure is peltier performance critical! :) 

February 26, 2014 10:54:57 AM

Reading through the "exploring below ambient" thread, the statement that made realize that "radiators won't work (besides the fact that you directly told me) was that the pelt would have to remain hot, in order for it to stay cold. Looks like I'll have air cool it in the case with a lot more fan power pushing ask that heat out.

What would your opinion be in regards to voltage controlling the TEC?

I'm thinking it would be voltage/temperature controlled using a relay and a fan controller with a temperature sensor it.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B02MVpxYDgIOTFpwZXh0ZGN...

Something like that.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
February 26, 2014 2:11:01 PM

I'm using voltage straight from a PC single 12v rail power supply,and controlling the peltier with the speed of the cooling fan on the heatsink, no voltage regulation is needed.

The peltier is a 15.6v DC peltier so it is receiving less voltage with 12v being supplied to it, and that means the peltier hot side can be controoled with the cooling fan speed on the heat pipe air cooler.

It really couldn't get much simpler.

I am presently running a 10.4c water temperature in my insulated reservoir and my ambient room temperature is 24.4c, so I'm running a water temperature with zero condensation 14c below ambient.

My cpu idle temperature is 15.5c at a 5ghz 3770K Not Delidded CPU overclock, and just for the heck of it ran Intel burn test for a load temperature of 66c.

What's your idle and load temperatures at a 5ghz overclock?
March 3, 2014 1:10:39 PM

Funny thing really, I'd have to say my current overclock is 0 Ghz because I currently don't have a PC, but I got my brother to send me his old amd x6 1050t, so I'll be doing all my testing on that before I upgrade the cpu, gpu and mobo.

I like said in my first post, it's all theory until I actually get it together.
Once the PC and peltiers arrive, I'll start to do what I can, and start planning on how I'm going to get everything to fit in the case (and running well.)
March 17, 2014 3:18:05 PM

I found this thread and your other while researching if refrigerated PC cooling was possible. I read first and last several pages of the other thread and this thread in its entirety. The work you have done is great. I'm not even at the level of water cooling myself but have begun to overclock some of my old PCs with their existing air cooling. So I was very interested in what is possible.

Some questions came to mind;

Did you consider using waterblocks not specifically made for CPUs? Some of the GPU or even HDD waterblock pictures look like they may allow the greater water flow you need without the modifications your CPU blocks required.

Does having the waterblocks in series not make it more likely for the second one to freeze? The water entering it already having been cooled by the first.

You wrote you tested several size reservoirs, different fan speeds, waterblocks and heatsinks. Was it a matter of tuning (for lack of a better term) the system until you reached desired performance? Aiming for just above dew point and experimentally testing things until you reached it. How much difference would running the reservoir half full make for example? Would it be more likely to freeze? How different would the idle temps be?

@threefingeredjack - Not sure if you'll ever come back to read this but... In the diagram for your twin reservior system you had the coolant loop running out of the radiator and into the cool tank closest to the TEC. Assuming everything else worked as intended I beleive you should consider exiting the radiator and entering the aluminum coil at the bottom and exiting closest to the TEC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countercurrent_exchange).

edit: The pictures of the waterblock before you altered it show a rubber grommet where the water is closest to the CPU die. I don't understand the design principle for that. Any idea why? Surely more flow is better.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
March 18, 2014 3:19:53 AM

Thanks for the interest and questions and Welcome to the thread! :) 

4ntikythera said:
Did you consider using waterblocks not specifically made for CPUs? Some of the GPU or even HDD waterblock pictures look like they may allow the greater water flow you need without the modifications your CPU blocks required.


As for myself No. Some suggested using GPU and Memory coolers but I got no feedback as to whether they actually tried them and were successful or not, I did use a dedicated channeled copper peltier water block at one time, but it was designed to cool the peltier not collect cold from it.

Logically it would seem it wouldn't make any difference if the block was designed to cool it should be able to collect the cool as well, but the problems arise in the thickness of the copper and it's ability to retain heat from the thickness.

The modified CPU water block base plate is only close to 1/8th of an inch thick so it transfers the cold to the water fast, that's why they work so well, the water is in and out quick, it picks up the cold and transfers it to the insulated reservoir.

After the fact I have considered blocks like GPU, however there is a problem of coming up with an adequate clamping pressure, as the clamping together of the CPU water block and the heat pipe air cooler is a perfect match, it is very important to get a good amount of clamping pressure close to 100psi (estimated), to get the full use from the peltier.

4ntikythera said:
Does having the waterblocks in series not make it more likely for the second one to freeze? The water entering it already having been cooled by the first.


It would logically seem that way, but the modifications made to the flow so far have not froze up, keep in mind they are countering the CPUs constantly produced heat, so if the CPU was not involved they would freeze solid, so only the fact they produce more cold than the CPUs produced heat, allows for the cold produced past the CPUs heat temperature to be stored in the insulated reservoir.

4ntikythera said:
You wrote you tested several size reservoirs, different fan speeds, waterblocks and heatsinks. Was it a matter of tuning (for lack of a better term) the system until you reached desired performance? Aiming for just above dew point and experimentally testing things until you reached it. How much difference would running the reservoir half full make for example? Would it be more likely to freeze? How different would the idle temps be?


Tuning is the right word! It all came down to a balance of reservoir volume, cooling fan speed, and pump flow rate, but a lot of testing took place experimenting seeking the right balance to be able to use it all together to reach the results achieved.

Even though the end of the other thread covers a lot of discoveries, it does not include the fine tuning and testing that I did to end up with the recommended cooling results this thread details, and basically guarantees, that if this setup is duplicated you'll get the exact same results as ArthurH has proven with his own setup.

Though his setup loop configuration is different than mine the components of the loop are the same and his results are almost identical to mine, so that proves no matter how you align or mount the individual units, the end result cooling performance is the same results.

4ntikythera said:
edit: The pictures of the waterblock before you altered it show a rubber grommet where the water is closest to the CPU die. I don't understand the design principle for that. Any idea why? Surely more flow is better.


That design is to pinpoint and force the water flow directly over the CPU core area, it is basically a way to force the cold pickup from the center even with high or low flow rate and pressure, it is following in their endeavor to end up with a one size fits all solution.

Earlier water block designs either required a low flow rate or high flow rate, and the internal design of the water block accounted for the needs, but today you don't really see high and low flow rate water blocks anymore because the CPU heat transfer point is now accomplished with super fine copper pins and pin point flow concentration.

The old flow rate water blocks were great in that they would hardly ever get clogged or gunked up, however too high a water flow on a low flow water block seriously lost it's cooling efficiency, the water was not in the block long enough to transfer the heat to the coolant and they were very inefficient.

The new pin point design of water blocks today work great with low or high flow rate, but tend to get fouled with almost any type of trash, dust, floating in the air during the build, or not fully flushed from the radiator, that got into the water loop.

So that's the idea behind the micro O ring, it forces the water to compress into the pickup pins, effectively better transferring the CPU heat to the water.

The new pin point water block design is very effective in a traditional radiator loop, but has to be flow modified to pickup cold as I am using, or it would freeze up. (Unless of course you used some type of anti-freeze coolant additive and most don't like acrylic, and are caustic to computer components if a leak occurs, that's why I use Steam distilled water and stay above the condensation problems.)



March 19, 2014 9:51:01 AM

OK, complete change of tone here. I love the idea of increasing overclocking capability with below ambient water temperatures, been wondering for a while how to take the next "extreme" step in watercooling because radiators can only take you so far. However, aesthetics are really important to me. is it possible at all to avoid using an insulated res and tubing? I realize that's it would make the peltier assembly more inefficient but it would certainly look much better. Is it possible to fit the entire setup in a large case such as the obsidian 900d?
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March 19, 2014 10:26:39 AM

crisptofuring said:
OK, complete change of tone here. I love the idea of increasing overclocking capability with below ambient water temperatures, been wondering for a while how to take the next "extreme" step in watercooling because radiators can only take you so far. However, aesthetics are really important to me. is it possible at all to avoid using an insulated res and tubing? I realize that's it would make the peltier assembly more inefficient but it would certainly look much better. Is it possible to fit the entire setup in a large case such as the obsidian 900d?


No, this cooling approach will not work without an insulated reservoir!

Why?

Because the peltier has to have time to reach it's cooling potential or it gets stalled out by the CPUs heat output.

The insulated reservoir serves two purposes, it is a heat buffer to allow cold buildup, and it is insulated storage for the chilled water.

If it was not insulated at all a major amount of cold would be lost to ambient room temperature.

The insulation holds in the cold allowing the water temperatures to go much lower than without the insulation.

And No, it will not all fit in an Corsair Obsidian 900D, it will however all fit in a Mountain Mods Extended Ascension CYO!

As that case is on my wish list! :) 

March 22, 2014 1:08:41 AM

After seeing what you had done I did some more reading and came across this http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/KS112-the-semic...



it seems to be designed to blow cold air out the centre and cool the hot sides with water. however I'm thinking if you reversed the current to the peltier then you would be blowing hot air and be able to cool the water flowing through both sides.

the specs say its capable of 360w so I'm wondering if it might be worth experimenting with. I'm interested in what you think.
March 22, 2014 2:49:02 AM

To my understanding, it could work, mind you that's 4 TEC's in there. the heatsink won't be able to cool the TEC enough to maintain it at a respectable level to keep the hotside stalling the cold side.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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March 22, 2014 3:38:30 AM

4ntikythera said:
After seeing what you had done I did some more reading and came across this http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/KS112-the-semic...



it seems to be designed to blow cold air out the centre and cool the hot sides with water. however I'm thinking if you reversed the current to the peltier then you would be blowing hot air and be able to cool the water flowing through both sides.

the specs say its capable of 360w so I'm wondering if it might be worth experimenting with. I'm interested in what you think.


Interesting little contraption, I guarantee that fan will be a screamer!

As to whether you could reverse engineer it?

Those are channeled aluminum water blocks and if you mix aluminum and copper in a loop you'll be forced to add some serious additives to stop the reactions of dissimilar metals, but that may be your intentions anyway?

I've seen a lot of tempting items out of that website, but never had the guts to buy from them?

If you do?

Then let us know how it goes?

a c 249 K Overclocking
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March 22, 2014 3:59:50 AM

oroboros86 said:
To my understanding, it could work, mind you that's 4 TEC's in there. the heatsink won't be able to cool the TEC enough to maintain it at a respectable level to keep the hotside stalling the cold side.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


They are claiming 360w so it must be 4 90w peltiers I tried something similar using a 240w peltier with a solid copper finned server heat sink and the copper heat sink retained heat too long and the high speed cooling fan was intolerably loud!







I just don't know how the aluminum heat sink would work, it may work better than the copper?

To keep the hot or cold side from stalling will take trial and error experimentation, there's really no Yes or No?

But more like I don't know, he'll just have to take a chance but with S&H it will be an over $100.00 lost if it doesn't work, but the individual parts themselves may be worth it? IDK



a c 249 K Overclocking
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April 25, 2014 7:39:17 AM

Timeline Update:

First began Peltier/TEC water chilling experimentation July 13th 2012 and not all experimentation was successful, which included a lot of learned the hard way times and various rebuilds and project dead ends leading to.

The present water chilling cooling concept that was adopted on December 1st 2012 (Meaning 2 Peltier/TEC assemblies chilling the water cooling the CPU and the GPU solely cooled by traditional radiator cooling)

The various Peltier/TEC assembly elements have been rehoused in their same setup configurations, but the original setup configuration adopted December 1st 2012 has now been in operation over 16 months.

The GPU radiator cooling has been changed from a RadBox with multiple radiator configuration, to one massive side mounted Watercool MO-RA3, but the Peltier/TEC assemblies have just been relocated into a new case in their same setup configuration.

July 13th this year will be the 2 year point reached since the Peltier/TEC water chilling fist was assembled the first time and actually went into testing operation.

After over 16 months of dependable water chilling produced by these Peltier/TEC assemblies I can honestly say it is successful and continuing to be so.

I run a 5.0ghz 3770K overclock 24/7 and the CPU has not been delidded, my present water temperature cooling the CPU is 10.4c, my CPU present idle temperature 4 core average is 15.75c. :) 
April 29, 2014 4:04:39 PM

First of all, congrats on inventing a coo-well gizmo! [curtsies]

But I'm wondering why you chose to cool the water rather than the CPU directly when it is thermodynamically far less efficient. Also, the way you've done it, condensation is still a scary monster waiting to jump out at you and kill your MB. It's just a matter of your daughter or someone turning off your A/C and opening the window in the summer when you're not there. The humidity soars, and you killed your CPU and MB. I killed them myself doing it your way (trying to balance humidity, temperature, and condensation. That's why I decided to make condensation a non-issue.

I find it's better to make your board waterproof (as an emerg backup) and then insulate the CPU area so it doesn't get cold enough to condense the air no matter what.

This can be done with a surprisingly thin layer of clear silicone sealant:

Around ⅓ inch of silicone is all you need for it to not feel cold to the touch on the outside surface:

I don't really use that thick heat-sink paste; it's just there during the silicone injection so it doesn't stick to the top of the TEC.

Don't ignore the bottom side!
(also good advice in bed)

Then put a normal watercool block on top:

That pic is not of a normal watercool block. it's a pre-built water cooler system with the plastic pump in the water block. I use a 420 Watt TEC (which requires a second PS slaved to the first), and it killed the cooling system you see above when the pump melted. Now I use a 3 x 120mm radiator array to cool the water, a plastic-free waterblock, half-inch I.D. hoses, and I put the radiator BEFORE the pump in the circuit so I don't melt another pump. If I want to make the water colder, I'll just add another pump and radiator array in series.

Also, very hi-pwr TEC devices do not come in 40 mm, so you have to use staggered aluminum plates on the cold side to reduce the width so it fits on the CPU. They must be insulated with silicone too. And my 420-watt TEC takes 24 V. I have a 24V transformer PS, but I don't use it (I use 12v) because I'm scared it will fail and my sys will overheat. But using PC pwr supplies, the sys will shut down if the "pwr good" (orange) wire goes low.

I did get a 120v DC-triggered AC relay to kill the sys pwr if the 24v pwr goes down, but I never hooked it up because it seems too Rube Goldberg. So far, I've only run my 420 W TEC at 12 volts.

Yours looks real cool, though! I don't put my stuff in a case because I'm always fu hacking with it.

If anyone is interested, I'll take pix of v. 2.0 of my cooling system and post them. The pix above are v 1.0, which had only one 120mm fan, a 40mm TEC, and a pump that melted. I also killed 2 CPUs and one MB before getting it right. Per ardua ad astra!

,

-faye kane
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
April 30, 2014 3:34:29 AM

faye__kane said:
First of all, congrats on inventing a coo-well gizmo! [curtsies]

But I'm wondering why you chose to cool the water rather than the CPU directly when it is thermodynamically far less efficient. Also, the way you've done it, condensation is still a scary monster waiting to jump out at you and kill your MB. It's just a matter of your daughter or someone turning off your A/C and opening the window in the summer when you're not there. The humidity soars, and you killed your CPU and MB. I killed them myself doing it your way (trying to balance humidity, temperature, and condensation. That's why I decided to make condensation a non-issue.

I find it's better to make your board waterproof (as an emerg backup) and then insulate the CPU area so it doesn't get cold enough to condense the air no matter what.

This can be done with a surprisingly thin layer of clear silicone sealant:
That pic is not of a normal watercool block. it's a pre-built water cooler system with the plastic pump in the water block. I use a 420 Watt TEC (which requires a second PS slaved to the first), and it killed the cooling system you see above when the pump melted. Now I use a 3 x 120mm radiator array to cool the water, a plastic-free waterblock, half-inch I.D. hoses, and I put the radiator BEFORE the pump in the circuit so I don't melt another pump. If I want to make the water colder, I'll just add another pump and radiator array in series.

Also, very hi-pwr TEC devices do not come in 40 mm, so you have to use staggered aluminum plates on the cold side to reduce the width so it fits on the CPU. They must be insulated with silicone too. And my 420-watt TEC takes 24 V. I have a 24V transformer PS, but I don't use it (I use 12v) because I'm scared it will fail and my sys will overheat. But using PC pwr supplies, the sys will shut down if the "pwr good" (orange) wire goes low.

I did get a 120v DC-triggered AC relay to kill the sys pwr if the 24v pwr goes down, but I never hooked it up because it seems too Rube Goldberg. So far, I've only run my 420 W TEC at 12 volts.

Yours looks real cool, though! I don't put my stuff in a case because I'm always fu hacking with it.

-faye kane


Hi Faye, Thank You for the compliments. :) 

I chose to cool the water as a replacement for the ice cooling I was already doing, as I had already been playing around with below ambient temperatures and knew where I could go down to, (temperature wise), without condensation being a problem at all.

I was seeking a cooling solution to replace the ice I was regularly having to swap out, and had considered many other options the most expensive being aquarium type water chillers, because my experimentation was below ambient not below zero.

There's a lot of overclocking headroom below ambient but still above the condensation forming point as both camps AMD and Intel base their stock cooling on ambient room temperatures being the effectual cooling points the CPU protections are based on, so just a little manipulation in that territory can yield some great results.

It may seem extremely strange but it doesn't matter if my AC gets turned off, because if it does the peltier exhaust heats the room and as the peltiers input cooling air gets warmer the water temperature rises over time, that's how well balanced the heat pipe coolers and fan speed output do their job.

What I am saying is my setup is balanced, at a 23c ambient room temperature my peltiers deliver 10c water temperature, if that 23c ambient increases so does the water temperature, the AC is to maintain a 23c ambient for my personal comfort and in the process also controls my water temperature, so when the room temperature rises to say 25c the water temperature rises to around 12c as well and my condensation does not start until the water temperature begins going below 8c.

One thing I can say for my setup as it has come through a lot of experimentation, I have only lost one thing and that was a XSPC pump inside a reservoir attempting to water cool the hot side of the peltier!

It looks like you've gone through a lot of sacrificial components to arrive where you are now, and I commend you for having the determination to get there, many just give up after destroying something to reach their goals, but you have the tenacity to continue to reach your goal!

So what overclocks and temperatures has your cooling setup allowed you to reach? Ry




May 4, 2014 3:22:13 AM

Great looking thread, I remember reading into peltier and seebeck effect for create electricity out int he wilderness.

I have a question, can't I just put the peltier straight onto the board between the heat sink and CPU or will it short the thing that's trying to power it?
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May 4, 2014 7:03:25 AM

DiabloDoom said:
I have a question, can't I just put the peltier straight onto the board between the heat sink and CPU or will it short the thing that's trying to power it?


Of course you can, many do that at Overclock.net and that was what Faye Kane was just making reference to above.

The cooling described in this thread is another alternative to peltier use.

May 4, 2014 7:47:35 AM

Ok, thanks. Another Q, to my understanding, a peltier will generate electricity if heated at one end and cooled at the other and attached to a power bank So what stops it generating electricity on a mobo? The current you add? or is the surface of the peltiers flipped in regards to whats being cooled and heated?

Sorry, I'm just having a hard time grasping the concept.
a c 249 K Overclocking
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May 4, 2014 8:13:01 AM

DiabloDoom said:
Ok, thanks. Another Q, to my understanding, a peltier will generate electricity if heated at one end and cooled at the other and attached to a power bank So what stops it generating electricity on a mobo? The current you add? or is the surface of the peltiers flipped in regards to whats being cooled and heated?

Sorry, I'm just having a hard time grasping the concept.


Check this out for starters. :) 

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?38367-The-Ultimate-Guide-to-TECs

And yes if you can supply the hot and cold to the peltier itself it will produce electricity, to what degree remains to be tested, but for myself, that is irrelevant to the way I use the peltiers, might be a nice experiment for someone to conduct though? hint, hint. :) 

a c 249 K Overclocking
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May 12, 2014 6:19:45 AM

Today is a reference point I need to document May 12, 2014 changed out coolant in both the CPU loop and GPU loop.

Reason being I am only running steam distilled water period, and I've seen many claims that running 100% pure steam distilled water was bad mostly by reviewers and those that think the reviewers are 100% trustworthy.

So the only way for me to know 100% for sure myself, is to change out what I'm running by flushing the system with fresh steam distilled water, inspect for problems, and refill with fresh!

I used about 3 gallons of water to flush both reservoirs, by siphoning, refilling, running, shutting down, and continuing the process until I had run 3 gallons through the systems.

Everything was crystal clear, no bugs, no critters, no deterioration or buildup! :) 

Note: 100% pure steam distilled water with zero additional additives is getting harder to find, if you buy steam distilled water make sure you read the label and see if it contains additives, you do not want any additives.

a c 249 K Overclocking
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July 2, 2014 3:02:51 AM

This cooling solution is absolutely amazing, the difference between TEC/Peltier controlled water cooling and traditional Radiator water cooling, is like night and day!

They both start out energized at ambient room temperature, the difference is that with Radiator water cooling the water temperature inside the system starts to increase from the CPUs heat output, with Peltier/TEC chilled water cooling water temperature inside the system starts decreasing.

The CPUs heat output continues to increase the internal water temperature with radiator cooling until it reaches an equilibrium point at some temperature above ambient, and that equilibrium point is determined by the amount of radiator cooling field the system has available to it, to use.

The more radiator cooling field in the radiator water cooling system, the closer to actual ambient room temperature the water temperature gets when it reaches it's equilibrium point.

TEC cooling starts to drop the system water temperature shortly after the Peltiers are energized and constantly drops the water temperature below ambient down to it's adjusted control run point, so my system water temperature never reaches an above ambient state, at all.

My controlled run point could also be classed as a below ambient equilibrium point, which for my setup is an actual 10c water temperature, which is usually in relation to my actual ambient room temperature, around 15c below my ambient.

100% Fact:
AMD and Intel both design their systems to run in an above ambient state, all their motherboard design technology requirements controlling the supplied stock air coolers, are designed to operate and boost fan speeds at certain CPU operational temperatures reached, but what if you can operate and not reach those activation point temperatures because the CPU is operating below those points, have any of you even thought about those possibilities?


It sometimes surprises me that more of you are not experimenting with this type of cooling, but trust me if you do, you're going to discover things, very few are even aware of!

Ryan



July 4, 2014 1:32:39 AM

Hi Ryan,

I have been working on an idea for a while now, like you I started thinking about lowering water temp, but my idea is a different angle then yours, I was looking at cooling the water first then pumping it through the loop, I found two GPU coolers with a flat surface, I attached them together, and put the peltiers on both sides of block, with heat sink and fan on the out side, I had read that a CPU block only raises the water temp by maybe 3 or 4 degrees, so I figured if you lower the temp by maybe 6 to 8 degrees, then the water would get very cold as it circulates around the loop, thus no need for radiator, so less water to cool, like you also thought of the tubing and res sweating, I thought just put res out side of case, problem solved, insulate tubing, but then also thought well just keep water above 50 degrees and below room temp, and turn up peltier as you overclock to keep water at an ideal temp,

I have never used a peltier before so was not to sure on their properties, but I knew I did not need one that gets -50 so I picked up two 60 watt peltiers, I figure I will make mistakes, and learn as I go, this is the first time I had read of anybody trying anything like what I have in mind, so I could use some insight if you don't mind,

first do you think the two 60 watt peltiers will cool the water enough, or will I need bigger ones,
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