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TEC/Peltier CPU Chilled Water Cooling - Page 6

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a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
July 4, 2014 1:56:00 AM

cmptrgydv said:
Hi Ryan,

I have been working on an idea for a while now, like you I started thinking about lowering water temp, but my idea is a different angle then yours, I was looking at cooling the water first then pumping it through the loop, I found two GPU coolers with a flat surface, I attached them together, and put the peltiers on both sides of block, with heat sink and fan on the out side, I had read that a CPU block only raises the water temp by maybe 3 or 4 degrees, so I figured if you lower the temp by maybe 6 to 8 degrees, then the water would get very cold as it circulates around the loop, thus no need for radiator, so less water to cool, like you also thought of the tubing and res sweating, I thought just put res out side of case, problem solved, insulate tubing, but then also thought well just keep water above 50 degrees and below room temp, and turn up peltier as you overclock to keep water at an ideal temp,

I have never used a peltier before so was not to sure on their properties, but I knew I did not need one that gets -50 so I picked up two 60 watt peltiers, I figure I will make mistakes, and learn as I go, this is the first time I had read of anybody trying anything like what I have in mind, so I could use some insight if you don't mind,

first do you think the two 60 watt peltiers will cool the water enough, or will I need bigger ones,


Hi cmptrgydv,

Since you already have the 2 60w peltiers and the GPU blocks, you may as well experiment with those to start out?

Spec wise the 60w peltiers have to be supplied the power they need and the most important thing is the amperage draw they pull, your power supply has to be able to handle the combined amperage load, because it is a constant load!

If you use a PC type power supply it needs to be a single 12v rail, not a multi 12v rail, and do not get your power from the 18g Molex 4 Pin or SATA cabling, use either the 4 or 8 pin motherboard connector, or 6 or 8 pin PCI-E, those are 14g wires.

You can snag some cable extenders for those wires, and not have to actually cut the power supply wires.

You want a 2nd power supply dedicated to powering the peltiers, do not attempt to run the same power supply you power the computer with!

The power supply powering peltiers is very important, this is not the situation of just barely getting by, you want at least 1/3rd power supply load handling capability over the actual amperage draw of the combined peltier load, to keep the power supply running cool.

I'll be honored to help you as much as I can, this thread covers a 100% operational cooling solution but there are other possibilities, you've already taken your first step, so lets see what you learn from your experimentation, so please share what you discover, and provide some pictures as well.
a b à CPUs
July 18, 2014 6:36:00 PM

Wow that is very cool. No pun intended :)  I thought I had a good idea but this is really neat. When I was checking the official site for the Delta fans I came across this thing (Thermo Electric Cooler) Check this thing out!

http://www.deltaww.com/Products/CategoryListT1.aspx?CID...

If you could find a way to stick inside the case to lower ambient temps real low to cool the rad and everything. Not sure how much one of these guys would cost though or where to find it other than calling Delta. It's not all that big either.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
July 19, 2014 6:12:43 AM

Memhorder said:
Wow that is very cool. No pun intended :)  I thought I had a good idea but this is really neat. When I was checking the official site for the Delta fans I came across this thing (Thermo Electric Cooler) Check this thing out!

http://www.deltaww.com/Products/CategoryListT1.aspx?CID...

If you could find a way to stick inside the case to lower ambient temps real low to cool the rad and everything. Not sure how much one of these guys would cost though or where to find it other than calling Delta. It's not all that big either.


Hey Welcome to the thread! :) 

The problem with that assembly when it comes to computer related cooling is the heat it exhausts, to gain any useable cooling the heat has to go somewhere outside of the case.

You'd get about the same results if you ducted a room air conditioner to supply direct cold air into the case.

(Been there done that!, and it didn't work either.) :) 

Mainly because of the compressor cycling in the AC unit, did not deliver a constant dependable useable cold, the temperature fluctuated.

You would get a constant cold with what you discovered but I think the end cooling results still relying on air would be seriously disappointing vs what that thing probably costs.

The cooling this thread covers is 100% in operation right now and has been in operation well over 18 months.

It is not the kind of cooling for everyone, that's for sure!

Mostly for those just flat sick of the one size fits all water cooling of today, that is adequate for most that have invested a chunk of dough in traditional radiator water cooling and basically settling for their end results.

When it came to their water cooling investment overclocking results, it really did not bring home the prom queen!

There's nothing worse that investing a serious chunk of money into computer cooling then finding out it does not reach the overclocking goals you had. (That's a serious gut punch!)

(Also been there done that!)

This cooling falls into the unknown category, because it was discovered outside the major brand named water cooling companies and most fear the unknown, that's why I've been running it, to prove it can stand the test of time.

ArthurH is running this cooling as well, but he never comments on it's capabilities.

Once again welcome to the thread and I hope I didn't just run you off.

So My 2 cents! Ryan
Related resources
a b à CPUs
July 23, 2014 9:56:36 AM

no no can't run me off. I can appreciate an honest opinion and someone who has hooked an AC to their computer is not someone to be reckoned with ;)  I only posted that because I was looking at that thing before and not knowing any of this and it in essence is the same technology except yours is a Hydra TEC. I can totally see how it is a better solution than cooling ambient. Your CPU-Z tag is just evidence of your success. I think this bridges the gap between Radiators and Liquid Nitrogen. How much and where on earth did you get those TEC plates?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
July 23, 2014 10:17:18 AM

These are the actual peltiers I am running, bought them from FrozenCPU.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2408/exp-01/245W_Potted_Peltier.html

I made my aluminum cold plate adapters out of 1/4" thick x 2" wide, flat aluminum stock I snagged from a local hardware store.

The heat sinks are Thermalright TRUE and the modified flow water blocks are Swiftech Apogee XTL. (Not sure if those XTL blocks are still attainable but if you decide you want to undertake this type of cooling I'll track down a good recommendation for you, just let me know?)

Some of the Swiftech water blocks are great for a 50mm X 50mm peltier as they do not need an adapter plate and get full coverage across the entire peltier face.

You can actually buy a 2" X 2" X 1/4" aluminum cold plate today already machined, as there is a lot more available today than was available when I started my project.

http://customthermoelectric.com/accessories.html#coldplates

The thickness of the cold plate used on the hot side of the peltier can actually be a thermal control factor when it comes to the balance of the heat sinks fan speed vs the peak temperature the peltier is allowed to reach. (That statement will make zero sense to you until you actually have an assembly to start testing with as fan speed on the heat sink can and will affect the peltiers cold side output.)

Meaning it will allow you to manipulate the > 68c Delta Tmax window, which at 12v DC supplied voltage is more like a 50c ~ 55c Delta Tmax window, because the 245watt peltier is designed to run at 15.4v DC.

I chose to power my peltiers from a single 12v rail PC power supply mainly for the sheer convenience of, I already had one on hand! :) 

So the peltier is undervolted at 12v DC, meaning the 245w peltier I am using is only actually 200w (Measured from wall current draw) and instead of the peltier drawing it's spec'd 26a at 15.4v DC it is more like a 20a draw.

Now that you are thoroughly confused, have a great day! :) 
September 4, 2014 9:15:42 PM

# hi guys just picked up the tread here dont know whats been said yet, so have you consider cooling the mobo from the other side also like using a cooling plate or rack cooler! I have had some ideas on chilled water cooling if you removed all your air and moisture out of your case and had a sealed sistem you wouldn't get bottle sweat i think?
September 4, 2014 9:17:39 PM

Also look at the design of industrial cooling systems designing your pipes properly can increase cooling efficiency,
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 7, 2014 8:00:24 AM

Baconhashtags said:
# hi guys just picked up the tread here dont know whats been said yet, so have you consider cooling the mobo from the other side also like using a cooling plate or rack cooler! I have had some ideas on chilled water cooling if you removed all your air and moisture out of your case and had a sealed sistem you wouldn't get bottle sweat i think?


Baconhashtags said:
Also look at the design of industrial cooling systems designing your pipes properly can increase cooling efficiency,


So what have you actually done or are you in the idea phase?
September 8, 2014 12:13:02 PM

4Ryan6 said:
Baconhashtags said:
# hi guys just picked up the tread here dont know whats been said yet, so have you consider cooling the mobo from the other side also like using a cooling plate or rack cooler! I have had some ideas on chilled water cooling if you removed all your air and moisture out of your case and had a sealed sistem you wouldn't get bottle sweat i think?


Baconhashtags said:
Also look at the design of industrial cooling systems designing your pipes properly can increase cooling efficiency,


So what have you actually done or are you in the idea phase?


# cool its that you machine are you using a solid .999 fine silver Heatsink plate, Ok so I'm think of adding an instrument cooler to the bottom of my mobo i currently gonna build my own if i can be bothered, but my point is about increasing surface area in pipes on pipes increasing the heat exchange efficiency, so basically improving you radiator pipes and stuff, in industry for exampl you can buy something call a spot cooler, it runs on an air compressor and can maintain/produce temperatures of -15c but generally buy most industrial equipment isn't suitable for home computer use, increase the available surface area allows cooling quicker cooling,

But I'm talking if you using metal pipes, if you could find. A way of adding a heat sink to your pipes and then some way of cooling them, it would reduce your temp, lol i have been looking at Silver and 9ct gold Tubing.

I suppose it you wrapped pure copper wire around your pipes and put a fan blowing on them you liquid will be colder for longer.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 8, 2014 12:59:14 PM

Baconhashtags said:
4Ryan6 said:
Baconhashtags said:
# hi guys just picked up the tread here dont know whats been said yet, so have you consider cooling the mobo from the other side also like using a cooling plate or rack cooler! I have had some ideas on chilled water cooling if you removed all your air and moisture out of your case and had a sealed sistem you wouldn't get bottle sweat i think?


Baconhashtags said:
Also look at the design of industrial cooling systems designing your pipes properly can increase cooling efficiency,


So what have you actually done or are you in the idea phase?


# cool its that you machine are you using a solid .999 fine silver Heatsink plate, Ok so I'm think of adding an instrument cooler to the bottom of my mobo i currently gonna build my own if i can be bothered, but my point is about increasing surface area in pipes on pipes increasing the heat exchange efficiency, so basically improving you radiator pipes and stuff, in industry for exampl you can buy something call a spot cooler, it runs on an air compressor and can maintain/produce temperatures of -15c but generally buy most industrial equipment isn't suitable for home computer use, increase the available surface area allows cooling quicker cooling,

But I'm talking if you using metal pipes, if you could find. A way of adding a heat sink to your pipes and then some way of cooling them, it would reduce your temp, lol i have been looking at Silver and 9ct gold Tubing.

I suppose it you wrapped pure copper wire around your pipes and put a fan blowing on them you liquid will be colder for longer.


I run clear flexible vinyl tubing that is also run inside 1/2" wall thickness foam pipe insulation, I run the vinyl because it is cheaper and is all I need to get the job done!

I would not even consider running metal tubing, maybe hard acrylic one day, but I do not want anymore metal in the loop than I absolutely have to have.

Quote:
I suppose it you wrapped pure copper wire around your pipes and put a fan blowing on them you liquid will be colder for longer.


Actually without pipe insulation that would warm the water, toward ambient room temperature, basically the same exact effect of putting a radiator in a chilled water loop, it has the complete opposite effect and begins warming the chilled water.



a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 8, 2014 4:06:06 PM

So i haven't ever really been able to follow some aspects of this very well. Are you saying the more you cool the hot side of the peltier, the colder the cool side gets or the hotter the hot side wants to be? I'm confused as to how you regulate how hot or cold either side gets, is it just a function of how much power you put into it? Also am I correct in thinking that what you're doing is basically using the peltiers to cool water in a separate box and then routing that to another loop?
September 8, 2014 4:22:49 PM

4Ryan6 said:
Baconhashtags said:
4Ryan6 said:
Baconhashtags said:
# hi guys just picked up the tread here dont know whats been said yet, so have you consider cooling the mobo from the other side also like using a cooling plate or rack cooler! I have had some ideas on chilled water cooling if you removed all your air and moisture out of your case and had a sealed sistem you wouldn't get bottle sweat i think?


Baconhashtags said:
Also look at the design of industrial cooling systems designing your pipes properly can increase cooling efficiency,


So what have you actually done or are you in the idea phase?


# cool its that you machine are you using a solid .999 fine silver Heatsink plate, Ok so I'm think of adding an instrument cooler to the bottom of my mobo i currently gonna build my own if i can be bothered, but my point is about increasing surface area in pipes on pipes increasing the heat exchange efficiency, so basically improving you radiator pipes and stuff, in industry for exampl you can buy something call a spot cooler, it runs on an air compressor and can maintain/produce temperatures of -15c but generally buy most industrial equipment isn't suitable for home computer use, increase the available surface area allows cooling quicker cooling,

But I'm talking if you using metal pipes, if you could find. A way of adding a heat sink to your pipes and then some way of cooling them, it would reduce your temp, lol i have been looking at Silver and 9ct gold Tubing.

I suppose it you wrapped pure copper wire around your pipes and put a fan blowing on them you liquid will be colder for longer.


I run clear flexible vinyl tubing that is also run inside 1/2" wall thickness foam pipe insulation, I run the vinyl because it is cheaper and is all I need to get the job done!

I would not even consider running metal tubing, maybe hard acrylic one day, but I do not want anymore metal in the loop than I absolutely have to have.

Quote:
I suppose it you wrapped pure copper wire around your pipes and put a fan blowing on them you liquid will be colder for longer.


Actually without pipe insulation that would warm the water, toward ambient room temperature, basically the same exact effect of putting a radiator in a chilled water loop, it has the complete opposite effect and begins warming the chilled water.





# yeah i suppose but when I wrote that I was thinking about fan less systems and external radiators, for example running tubes through the PC out the other side into a chiller box, and not using water as such, but running water thought gallery's adding more surface to chill the water faster, that's why I was on about silver and gold tubing expensive but would be great looking.
September 8, 2014 4:31:07 PM

Davil said:
So i haven't ever really been able to follow some aspects of this very well. Are you saying the more you cool the hot side of the peltier, the colder the cool side gets or the hotter the hot side wants to be? I'm confused as to how you regulate how hot or cold either side gets, is it just a function of how much power you put into it? Also am I correct in thinking that what you're doing is basically using the peltiers to cool water in a separate box and then routing that to another loop?


# well i thought if you cool the rear of you entire motherboard with and instrument cooler then you could bring down motherboard temperature thus the system temp! back in the early days most CPUs did not require a heat sink as heat dissipation into the circuit board was sufficient, later they added heat sinks and fans i have seen old system where they only have a Heatsink no fan at all!

So the comments were slightly off topic but about cooling in general, (motherboard temperature!)

Well they might have had heat sinks but didn't need CPU mounted fan systems

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 9, 2014 3:19:03 AM

Davil said:
So i haven't ever really been able to follow some aspects of this very well. Are you saying the more you cool the hot side of the peltier, the colder the cool side gets or the hotter the hot side wants to be? I'm confused as to how you regulate how hot or cold either side gets, is it just a function of how much power you put into it? Also am I correct in thinking that what you're doing is basically using the peltiers to cool water in a separate box and then routing that to another loop?


I sounds like you don't grasp the common workings of the peltier and it's basic capabilities, so for getting a good foundation of information regarding peltiers read this. (Note: Peltier and TEC means the same thing.)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?38367-The-Ultimate-Guide-to-TECs

The quote below is taken from eweast's guide linked above.

Quote:
When a low voltage DC current is applied to a thermoelectric module, heat can be moved through the TEC from one side to the other. One side is therefore cooled [cold-side] while the opposite side is simultaneously heated [hot-side]. The temperature differences can be upwards 50C in real world application. TECs help enhance your cooling ability by creating a temperature differential that can be more easily moved out of the system. Water-cooling systems can only cool an object to ambient temperatures (room temp), but they still have excess cooling capacity (provided they have sufficient flow-rate and a capable radiator). TECs allow more of the cooling capacity to be utilized and therefore achieve lesser-than-ambient temperatures.


The 50c temperature difference he makes reference to is what I manipulate to get the 10c actual water temperature I run, which the lower temperature is stored in an insulated reservoir, the temperature storage begins immediately after the peltiers or TECs are energized.

My system is looped like this; Insulated Reservoir, > Pump, > CPU, > TEC Assembly 1, > TEC Assembly 2, > Insulated Reservoir. The Insulated Reservoir, Pump, and both TEC Assemblies are housed in an AZZA 1000 case, the insulated water lines are the only water cooling elements entering into my main computer going direct to the CPU water block.

The water in the insulated reservoir after the machine has been shut down for some time actually warms to ambient room temperature because the insulated reservoir cannot hold the cold indefinitely, without the TECs creating the cold temperatures, this has turned out to be a benefit as any cold boot problems that were experienced when I was using ice in a cooler to run below ambient temperatures are completely gone.

The difference between the peltier chilled water cooling and traditional radiator water cooling is when the radiator cooling is powered the water temperature rises above ambient room temperature and eventually reaches a point of temperature equilibrium which will always be above ambient, that water temperature above ambient is your deltaT.

With radiator water cooling the only control over deltaT is more radiator cooling field to drop the deltaT as close to ambient room temperature as possible, but it will still be above ambient.

When the peltier chilled water cooling is powered the water temperature starts dropping below ambient and begins chilling the water mass in the insulated reservoir, which when the TEC assembly is fine tuned and hot and cold balanced, the chilled water system also reaches a point of equilibrium, but it is a negative deltaT and usually around 15c below ambient room temperature.

Regarding the bold underlined above:

It took a lot of trial and error to get the cold output from my TEC assemblies pumping out useable cold to store in the reservoir, however if this cooling setup is duplicated that this thread covers, you will get the exact same results I am getting, it has already been duplicated by another forum member, not an exact duplication in his component layout but the same component duplication, and he gets almost identical cooling results.

Does that help your understanding?

Edit: Your sig download speed results make me sick! :) 
They stomp my results in the dirt as I live out of the city in the country and I have a satellite internet connection and my ping is over 1,000, and I am not joking!
You have some killer download speed! :pfff:  :) 



a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 9, 2014 1:09:46 PM

4Ryan6 said:
14135563,0,672482 said:

Edit: Your sig download speed results make me sick! :) 
They stomp my results in the dirt as I live out of the city in the country and I have a satellite internet connection and my ping is over 1,000, and I am not joking!
You have some killer download speed! :pfff:  :) 
said:


Thanks, I actually can get it a little faster if I play with my router settings and firmware, comcast down here in Florida is actually not to bad as far as speed, but service is still awful. Easily worth the $100 in my opinion though.

I was really more questioning how you regulate the temperature of the cold side of the peltier. Like does it have a constant draw regardless of how many volts you plug into it or do you have to adjust that manually? I didn't really follow what you were saying when you mentioned in the original post about using water to cool the hot side and burning your hand on the pump. That gave me the impression that the more you cool the hot side the hotter it will get and by comparison the cold side will get cooler.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 10, 2014 3:10:50 AM

Davil said:
I was really more questioning how you regulate the temperature of the cold side of the peltier. Like does it have a constant draw regardless of how many volts you plug into it or do you have to adjust that manually? I didn't really follow what you were saying when you mentioned in the original post about using water to cool the hot side and burning your hand on the pump. That gave me the impression that the more you cool the hot side the hotter it will get and by comparison the cold side will get cooler.


Quote:
I was really more questioning how you regulate the temperature of the cold side of the peltier.


By controlling the temperature of the hot side.

Quote:
Like does it have a constant draw regardless of how many volts you plug into it or do you have to adjust that manually?


Yes it has a constant voltage, wattage, and amperage, draw unless you add some kind of a voltage regulator.

Quote:
I didn't really follow what you were saying when you mentioned in the original post about using water to cool the hot side and burning your hand on the pump.


That was the radiator was too hot to hold your hand on, and the pump was an inside the reservoir model and burned out.

Quote:
That gave me the impression that the more you cool the hot side the hotter it will get and by comparison the cold side will get cooler.


How could the hot side get hotter the more you cool it?

Wouldn't the hot side get cooler the more you cooled it?

****************************************************************

The peltier itself is a very simple device that can actually do three actions depending on what you use it for, you can cool with it, you can heat with it, or you can get electricity from it.

When power is applied to the peltier one side gets hot and the opposite side gets cold, if you do not control the hot side heat and allow it to overheat past it's specs, the peltier will simply get too hot and burn out. Your Bad!

So somehow you have to control the peltiers hot side heat so it does not get to spec burn out, the hot side can be controlled numerous ways, many told me it flat out could not be done with an air cooler, but they were wrong!

The link below is the peltiers I am running.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2408/exp-01/245W_Potted_Peltier.html

These are the peltiers specs:

Maximum operating temp: 125 C
Imax: 26 Amps
Qmax: 243.5 Watts
Vmax: 15.4 Volts
Delta Tmax: >68 (C)
Size: 50mm X 50mm X 3.10mm

The maximum peltier operating temperature is 125 C that is basically the peltiers burn out point if it is allowed to reach that temperature, so you probably think that maybe 100 C would be a safe peltier operating range well away from it's burn out point, Right?

Well there's only one major problem with that thinking and that is 100 C is waters boiling point, so if you plan to cool the hot side of the peltier with water cooling, you will have to operate the peltier below 100 C, because you do not want 100 C even possibly building in your water cooling loop, because the system could build steam and explode as none of the components are designed for that kind of temperatures, pump, tubing, etc.

Is the veil of understanding beginning to lift for you, I would like to know before I spend the rest of the morning typing and you still don't understand?

So please help me, help your understanding?

Edit: I mentioned you could get electricity from the peltier, and if you artificially supply the hot and cold to the peltier, the electrical leads will read a voltage output.

For the Record: This system has been in operation now for 20 months.







a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 12, 2014 5:46:49 PM

I guess where I got lost was you made it sound in your original post as if the water wasn't cooling the hot side effectively enough because it was getting hot enough to burn your pump which seems strange to me because you're doing ok with just a fan. Water should be more efficient as far as moving heat to the air I would think. If the peltier is putting out a consistent amount of heat shouldn't the water cooling cool it better than just a fan? Other wise I just have to accept that it's PFM (pure f'ing magic) and believe a fan cools better than water does which I know can't be true.

Like I get what you're saying about how the water is going to get really hot especially over time, but is that with just a single radiator of a specific size with a fan at a specific speed or did you try different radiators and fans/speeds? It seems like at some point the water should reach a point of equilibrium where it is dissipating as much heat as the peltier is putting in. Also with the fan what is the normal operating temperature of the peltier? I totally understand what you're saying if you have fan that is keeping the peltier at like 110 or something so that it's far enough from the max temperature because yea that makes way more sense than having water that is so hot it breaks components in the loop.

But other than all that yea the rest makes sense now, but just for clarity the cold side will always produce the same amount of cooling and hot side will always produce the same amount of heat right?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 13, 2014 6:13:51 AM

Davil said:
Other wise I just have to accept that it's PFM (pure f'ing magic) and believe a fan cools better than water does which I know can't be true.


I don't respond well when this type of "PFM (pure f'ing magic)", attitude comes across, because obviously you do not realize there are some air coolers that do out perform some water coolers, and magic has nothing to do with it!

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html


a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 13, 2014 11:06:30 AM

No disrespect intended, I'm a submariner and as you might expect we have a lot of complex systems that all work together. There are things that much smarter men than me designed and when it comes to the nuts and bolts of it I just have to assume it's PFM because I just can't understand it without digging into it and actually putting my hands on it. So that's just a regular term in my field of work is all. Plus my demeanor can sometimes come across the wrong way so, I apologize if that's the case.

I understand that some CLC coolers are junk and something like a EVO 212 will certainly beat those but I meant a custom water cooling loop. Have you ever tried that or was the CLC cooler you used the only thing you tried as far as water cooling? I'm willing to experiment on my own, but so far you're the only expert that's been there and done that with this. I just want to know how far you've gone with attempting water cooling for your tec or if you just tried one CLC and decided it was easier to just use a fan cooler.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 14, 2014 1:50:42 AM

Davil said:
No disrespect intended, I'm a submariner and as you might expect we have a lot of complex systems that all work together. There are things that much smarter men than me designed and when it comes to the nuts and bolts of it I just have to assume it's PFM because I just can't understand it without digging into it and actually putting my hands on it. So that's just a regular term in my field of work is all. Plus my demeanor can sometimes come across the wrong way so, I apologize if that's the case.

I understand that some CLC coolers are junk and something like a EVO 212 will certainly beat those but I meant a custom water cooling loop. Have you ever tried that or was the CLC cooler you used the only thing you tried as far as water cooling? I'm willing to experiment on my own, but so far you're the only expert that's been there and done that with this. I just want to know how far you've gone with attempting water cooling for your tec or if you just tried one CLC and decided it was easier to just use a fan cooler.


OK I understand where you're coming from with the comment, I was Navy as well but on a surface ship an old Destroyer the Richard E. Kraus DD849 long since retired from service.

Cooling the hot side with water the very first attempt I made was attempting to cool it with chilled ice water.

All that was covered about 2/3rds the way through to the end of the "Exploring Below Ambient Water Cooling Thread", which has a link to it at the beginning of this thread.

Since I already had a 54qt cooler filled with ice and water I thought it would be the perfect thing to cool the hot side of the peltier because my thinking at the time was keeping the hot side cooler was going to give me much lower cold side.

That was before I learned that for the peltiers Hot/Cold reaction to properly take place the hot side had to be allowed to get hot, the chilled water had the hot side of the peltier too cold and it caused the peltier to stall out.

So cooling the hot side of the peltier with chilled ice water quickly was a discarded idea, that seemed super logical to me to be the perfect way to cool the hot side, but was too aggressive and did not work.

What I am referring to was in the very beginning when I first got my peltier in hand and began experimenting with it, I do not recall if I even wrote about that discovery in the other thread?

Before going any further you need to understand that if a peltiers hot side gets too hot it will affect the cold side being able to get cold enough and the peltier will stall and literally produce nothing useable, in the opposite direction if the cold side gets too cold it will lower the hot side temperature and also stall the peltier.

That's the finicky part of peltier cooling you have to find the sweet spot, where the hot and cold are in a balance and for this type of chilled water cooling the cold side is constantly producing cold, with zero stalling.

Once I discovered that an air cooler could actually do this, it was just a no brainer to continue down that road of testing leading to the results I have today.

Some of this has already been covered in the beginning of this thread.

Quote:
Logically it would seem the best solution would be to keep the hot side as cold as possible, but that's not the case, you have to allow the hot side to get hot for the cold side to get cold, but since we're only talking a approximately 1/8th inch thick plating, that's a very close distance to play the hot/cold balancing act.

Some of what needs to be shared is the peltiers what I call weirdness, I originally thought the cooler I kept the hot side the cooler the cold side would be, however the hot side has to get hot for the cold side to get cold, it is a perfect example of, "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.".

There was quite a bit of testing and fan changing to get the peltier to run at it's optimum cooling side capability, at one point I actually had the hot side too cool and it was not performing as expected, it's been a learning experience that's for sure.

Simple discovery the hot side can override the cold sides effectiveness but news flash the opposite can also happen, the cold side getting too cold, can override the hot sides effectiveness,

So you're after a balancing act of hot and cold to get what you're after, the true key to this things performance is give it the heat range it operates best within or sweetspot, and it will give you the results you're looking for. It needs to be in the mid range of it's capabilities, so it's hot enough to deliver the cooling performance, but far enough away from it's limitations to keep from burning it out.


a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 14, 2014 10:19:07 AM

Oh I see now, so it does have a natural sort of equilibrium that it needs to try and maintain so it's not really about cooling the hot side as much as possible, you just need to cool it enough to prevent it from burning out. That all makes perfect sense now. I think it's time for me to start piecing some things together and see what I can come up with. Is it a particularly bad idea to make a small test loop with only the tec water block and a reservoir in it? And do you have any thumb rules as to how much wattage a single 245w tec should be able to handle?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 14, 2014 12:46:06 PM

Davil said:
Oh I see now, so it does have a natural sort of equilibrium that it needs to try and maintain so it's not really about cooling the hot side as much as possible, you just need to cool it enough to prevent it from burning out. That all makes perfect sense now. I think it's time for me to start piecing some things together and see what I can come up with. Is it a particularly bad idea to make a small test loop with only the tec water block and a reservoir in it? And do you have any thumb rules as to how much wattage a single 245w tec should be able to handle?


Specification wise numbers change regarding the 15.4 Volt DC, 245w TEC, when it is only supplied with 12v DC, the voltage acquired from a single 12v rail PC style power supply.

Imax: 26 Amps changes to approximately 20 Amp.
Qmax: 243.5 Watts changes to 200 Watts actual wall outlet power.
Vmax: 15.4 Volts supplied with 12 Volts from a PC power supply
Delta Tmax: >68 (C) changes to approximately 50 (C)



a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 21, 2014 5:51:21 AM

Hello Davil, I have duplicated Ryans cooling system on my PC and get exactly the same results he says it can do. So a for what it is worth it does work and very well! Been up and running for about 6 or more months now with no problems what so ever. Best home built cooling system for the money as far as I'm concerned.

Good luck to you.
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 23, 2014 9:59:39 AM

Ok so I'm playing with some 6 gauge bare copper wire while I wait for my tec to show up and I was thinking about different ways to use it for cooling. I was considering a different idea as far as how to use the peltier. Instead of cooling the water directly using the peltier via a cold plate, what if I do something that's more like the way heat pipes work on coolers. Except of course it would be more like a cold pipe. I feel like if I coil up a bunch of this wire and run a lead out to the cold side of the peltier it could be possible a more elegant solution drawing to come..

Alright here is a quick 3D mockup i put together to illustrate my idea.
www.davidsirritation.com/Holdplateoff.gif

Pretty much the idea would be to place the peltier on top of the case then route the coil through a tube opening on the back of the case and then coil it on the inside of the reservoir to transmit the heat. I did some experimenting with a similar setup using a glass of ice water in place of the peltier and it did in fact transfer heat along the wire but requires some insulation to extend how far the cold will go along the wire.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 24, 2014 2:16:52 AM

The heat pipe thermal principle works because of fluid inside the heat pipes using a wicking action to constantly transfer the hot/cold temperature exchange.

The hot collected at the base plate wicks toward the end of the pipes where the cooling fins are located, the liquid is cooled and drops back to the base plate to start the hot collection action over, it is a constant transfer action.

I don't think your bare wire idea will yield useable results, but many told me my ideas that are 100% operational wouldn't work either so good luck and best to you, and let us know what happens?
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 24, 2014 6:43:02 AM

Yea I may have to re-watch some bill nye videos since I'm a bit rusty on the physics of heat. But I believe hot and cold aren't really plus or minus energy, just varying degrees of it. So the wire should just want to be at the ambient temperature regardless of hot or cold. It should behave the same way it does with heat, which is not as efficient. The heat goes along the copper in a cooler and radiates as it goes which dissipates it quicker. I want to actually contain the cold on the copper and channel it so that means I need some kind of insulator to wrap around the copper which will prevent condensation and channel the cold. Getting some kind of styrofoam or polystyrene wrap is my next step for testing.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 26, 2014 4:43:54 AM

If you're even considering using a peltier to utilize the cold you can get from it, you need to harness as much as possible and the wire idea will take way too long to reach a useable cold, IMO. Using a water block to collect the cold from the peltier is a very good cold transfer to the water or coolant, using the same chilled water to actually cool the CPU in the same loop. Even though the water block may not be the most efficient use of the peltiers cold collection, it will be far more efficient than using wire for cold transfer, water flowing inside the tubing transferring cold vs solid wire transferring cold? It's kinda a no brainer as to which will yield the best useable results, if you really think about it.

If you take the operation of the traditional radiator water cooling, vs, the active chilled water cooling explained in this thread as a direct example of peltier use.

When a traditional radiator loop is powered up after a time period of being off, the coolant temperature in the loop equalizes to ambient room temperature.
Once powered the coolant starts to flow collecting the CPUs heat and the coolant temperature begins to rise and continues to rise until it reaches a temperature point of equilibrium, above ambient room temperature.

When the chilled water system is powered after a period of being off, it's coolant temperature has also returned to ambient room temperature, the coolant starts to flow collecting the CPUs heat, but unlike the radiator the peltier assemblies are outputting cold, so the chilled water cooling never ever goes above ambient, but steadily drops below ambient until it's cold equilibrium is reached, which normally takes about 30 minutes of operation and which is usually around 15c below ambient room temperature.

Now if you use solid copper wire to transfer the cold to the reservoir, even if you insulate all the wire and reservoir the cold transfer will take much longer to occur and be also IMO be limited, which will allow the CPU to have dumped a significant amount of heat that the impeded cold transfer cannot recover.

Keep in mind the water flowing is constantly transferring heat, (from the CPU) ~ to the coolant ~ cold to the coolant (from the peltier assemblies) ~ cold stored inside the insulated reservoir, ~ pumped back to the CPU to collect it's outputted heat, and the cycle continues.

I would think if you intended to expend the electrical power to run the peltiers in the first place, you would want as much from them as possible.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 26, 2014 5:15:08 AM

arthurh said:
Hello Davil, I have duplicated Ryans cooling system on my PC and get exactly the same results he says it can do. So a for what it is worth it does work and very well! Been up and running for about 6 or more months now with no problems what so ever. Best home built cooling system for the money as far as I'm concerned.

Good luck to you.


Thanks for that confirmation ArthurH, I really appreciate you taking the time to add your input!
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 26, 2014 9:54:35 AM

Well in my estimation what you're really doing is taking a cold side of the peltier putting it through a medium, i.e. the waterblock, and going from the waterblock to the water. What I'm suggesting is actually doing the exact same thing only slightly differently. It goes from the peltier, to the copper wire, and then to the water. And actually I may have more surface area contacting the water in this way because I want to coil the copper wire inside the reservoir in direct contact with the water. I believe another interesting idea I had with this was to use hollow copper tubing and fill it with either water, or a better option is I would think maybe the gel they use in cold packs for lunch boxes since it won't actually freeze. But that should help to maintain the temperature and capture it more effectively even while the peltier is off. Which could lead to potentially not leaving the peltier on the entire time and only cycling it on and off when necessary.

Do you see what I'm saying? What I want to do is make a much smaller version of what you have. I envision a much smaller power supply, possibly just something I could put in a project box and plug into a wall with an on/off switch. I'm actually going to run to home depot today to get some insulating foam and I'm going to do a quick experiment. If it goes according to plan I'll put up a quick video to at least prove the theory.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 27, 2014 1:55:43 AM

Davil said:
Well in my estimation what you're really doing is taking a cold side of the peltier putting it through a medium, i.e. the waterblock, and going from the waterblock to the water. What I'm suggesting is actually doing the exact same thing only slightly differently. It goes from the peltier, to the copper wire, and then to the water. And actually I may have more surface area contacting the water in this way because I want to coil the copper wire inside the reservoir in direct contact with the water. I believe another interesting idea I had with this was to use hollow copper tubing and fill it with either water, or a better option is I would think maybe the gel they use in cold packs for lunch boxes since it won't actually freeze. But that should help to maintain the temperature and capture it more effectively even while the peltier is off. Which could lead to potentially not leaving the peltier on the entire time and only cycling it on and off when necessary.

Do you see what I'm saying? What I want to do is make a much smaller version of what you have. I envision a much smaller power supply, possibly just something I could put in a project box and plug into a wall with an on/off switch. I'm actually going to run to home depot today to get some insulating foam and I'm going to do a quick experiment. If it goes according to plan I'll put up a quick video to at least prove the theory.


Good luck to you, let us know what happens?

a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 27, 2014 2:31:34 AM

Yea sorry I got a bit busy. The experiment did seem to work but I decided it's not a very good demonstration since it's not really representative of what would actually be happening. Plus I picked up a small peltier powered refrigerator for $30 and I'm working on tearing it down to get at the 25w peltier inside. It's actually perfect for what I was thinking of because it's already got the electronics I need plus a working heat sink on the back. I really only need to work on my coil design.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 27, 2014 2:36:56 AM

A 25w peltier might cool a couple of static drinks while you're working all this out, but you can forget it being capable of cooling a computer producing it's own heat.

You have to be capable of overriding the wattage of the CPU.
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 27, 2014 2:46:58 AM

What size peltier do you use to chill your water?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 27, 2014 2:59:06 AM

Davil said:
What I want to do is make a much smaller version of what you have.


That is my goal as well.

What you need to understand is there are ways to shrink it down to a smaller size, BUT, you still have to have the raw capabilities to accomplish handling the heat load produced by the CPU, and that load is increased when you overclock the CPU.

If you do not have the wattage capabilities to handle the CPU without it even being overclocked, what will happen when it is overclocked.

Starting where you are with a 25w peltier, you're going to have to have an extreme love of failure and starting over and a lot of tenacity, or else after a few failed experiments you'll just quit and give up.

I'm not trying to discourage you!

You need to understand simple logic, you are not going to cool a 90w CPU with a 25w peltier.

Now if you can I'll gladly eat my words and start experimenting in that direction myself, but all my past experimentation has led me to this setup I'm running, and I'm running 2 peltiers producing a combined 400w, that is how I can cool the CPU and store cold in the reservoir, I am simply producing more cold than the CPU is producing hot.

But it ain't going to happen with 25w.

a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 27, 2014 3:02:49 AM

Davil said:
What size peltier do you use to chill your water?


I've already linked that to you earlier.

a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 27, 2014 3:10:50 AM

I see your point, I thought I read something about 25w peltiers at the start of the articles but I was probably reading the amps. Guess I'll just have to keep waiting for the 245w one to get here. At least in the mean time I do have something to cool my soda :)  while I wait.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
September 27, 2014 3:44:32 AM

Davil said:
I see your point, I thought I read something about 25w peltiers at the start of the articles but I was probably reading the amps. Guess I'll just have to keep waiting for the 245w one to get here. At least in the mean time I do have something to cool my soda :)  while I wait.


That is an excellent attitude Davil !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I look forward to your discoveries! :)  Ryan

While you are waiting go back up to the opening thread posts and read up on the power supply capability and where you actually get the power to power the peltier, you do not use the 18g 4 pin Molex and SATA cabling as it will not handle the amperage load.



a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
September 27, 2014 9:59:51 PM

I'm considering building my own power supply or seeing what radio shack has available since I'm still in an experiment phase. I just want to power the peltier and a fan to cool it. I'm basically going to just see if I can freeze a small quantity of water in a cup by attaching the cold side to a copper coil and putting the other end in the water. Should that work I think I have a fairly decent method of doing things without all the hassle of using all that other stuff.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
October 6, 2014 3:32:29 AM

Beam me up, Scotty!
October 11, 2014 8:35:30 AM

aye, aye Captain!
October 11, 2014 9:31:06 AM

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.

First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...

My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)

knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....

TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?

If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
October 11, 2014 12:31:25 PM

CustomBuilt said:
Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.

First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...

My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)

knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....

TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?

If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.


Your 12v amperage estimation of 24a looks right to me and the 412w wattage is very close as well.

To power it the power supply you have is plenty capable very close to mine.

Wiring wise to keep from overloading the cabling I used the 8 pin M/B connector which is 14g wire, consisting of 4 12v yellow positive and 4 black 12v ground, I combined 2 of the yellow for the positive lead wire to TEC #1 and 2 of the black for the negative.

I used 12g stranded wire to run from the power supply connections to the peltier connections.

Since I have 2 TECs I used the other 2 yellow and the other 2 black from the 8 pin connector for the positive and negative to the 2nd TEC, they don't even get warm, they have zero problems handling the TECs.

My question to you is, that peltier is huge 62mm x 62mm, how do you plan cooling the hot side and collecting the useable cold from the cold side?

October 11, 2014 5:33:45 PM

4Ryan6 said:
CustomBuilt said:
Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Hello Ryan, I first off want to say congrats to you on your success with this endeavor! I have been following this thread for several months now while slowly buying parts for my very first water cooled build. I have been a system builder for about 15 years now but have never taken the plunge to water cooling till now. I am still in the process of ordering parts and fabricating parts for my first water/chilled system, which leads me to some questions I have for you about the TEG I am considering buying.

First off I have a 1000watt PS with 70amps on the single 12v rail which will be dedicated to the TEG only.
Secondly, this is the TEG I am considering buying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280580259103?_trksid=p2055119.m...

My question to you is: will these two work together in harmony or will one destroy the other? (burnout)

knowing that the theoretical max of the 8pin EPS line is 28amps@336watts, will the TEG rated @ 32amps and 550watts try to draw to much from the power supply and burn it out? or itself?
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....

TEG spec @16 volt is 32amp @ 550watt max.
I will be running 12v to the TEG so I should expect a max of 24amp @ 412watt. Is this correct?
412watt being max dissipation?

If you can enlighten me on this, It would be much appreciated.
Thank You.


Your 12v amperage estimation of 24a looks right to me and the 412w wattage is very close as well.

To power it the power supply you have is plenty capable very close to mine.

Wiring wise to keep from overloading the cabling I used the 8 pin M/B connector which is 14g wire, consisting of 4 12v yellow positive and 4 black 12v ground, I combined 2 of the yellow for the positive lead wire to TEC #1 and 2 of the black for the negative.

I used 12g stranded wire to run from the power supply connections to the peltier connections.

Since I have 2 TECs I used the other 2 yellow and the other 2 black from the 8 pin connector for the positive and negative to the 2nd TEC, they don't even get warm, they have zero problems handling the TECs.

My question to you is, that peltier is huge 62mm x 62mm, how do you plan cooling the hot side and collecting the useable cold from the cold side?



This will be the water block used to pickup cold.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Water-Block-As...;jsessionid=A549EEF2EFE01D7D5E4140D692668E1B.m1plqscsfapp06

This will be the cold/hot plate used.
http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Cold-Plate-w-M...;jsessionid=A549EEF2EFE01D7D5E4140D692668E1B.m1plqscsfapp06

Then I have a Noctua NH-D14 that will sit atop the cold/hot plate.

For the reservoir, I am using dual PVC pipe. one 6 inch and one 4 inch. The 4" will be capped at each end and then wrapped with owens corning insulation and then put inside a painted 6" tube for aesthetic purposes. The 6" tube will then be mounted to the outside of a steel reinforced Lian-LI case. I am planning on this build to be a single case unit which is why I am mounting it to the outside of the case along with the water block assembly. This Lian-Li case also has room for two power supply units. One at the top and one at the bottom. I am a PC builder who is concerned with aesthetics and therefore will not be covering up my acrylic water lines with insulation. Only one line will be insulated and that will be the one from water block to insulated reservoir. Please keep in mind that my goals differ from yours in that, I am only wanting to achieve "better than water alone" temps, Somewhere between ambient watercooling and sub-ambient and I will be happy. If I achieve sub ambient with this setup, then im just that much happier. I believe that with this large of a TEC and this style of "zig zag water flow" water block, my goals are within reason. Your thoughts?

BTW: My GPU's will be on a separate conventional RAD and fan loop.

In progress photo's below.








October 11, 2014 5:55:18 PM

Notice the 6 rivets which are holding a steel plate for reservoir mounting reinforcement.


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a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
October 12, 2014 3:56:48 AM

For the hot side you may need to consider adding a 2" x 2" cold plate extender to the hot side to step the 3" x 3" size closer to the Noctua Base dimension.

The Noctua base is going to get lost in the middle of the 3" x 3" plate, you need something to kinda bridge the outer area that won't be covered to transfer the heat to the Noctua base.

http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Cold-Plate-Extender-Block-20-x-20-x-025-CP-20-20-AL-02.htm

Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you! :) 

Quote:
This Lian-Li case also has room for two power supply units. One at the top and one at the bottom. I am a PC builder who is concerned with aesthetics and therefore will not be covering up my acrylic water lines with insulation. Only one line will be insulated and that will be the one from water block to insulated reservoir. Please keep in mind that my goals differ from yours in that, I am only wanting to achieve "better than water alone" temps, Somewhere between ambient watercooling and sub-ambient and I will be happy. If I achieve sub ambient with this setup, then im just that much happier. I believe that with this large of a TEC and this style of "zig zag water flow" water block, my goals are within reason. Your thoughts?


My next build will be all about aesthetics and getting everything inside one case, including the Watercool MO-RA3 radiator cooling my graphics, but that's not going to happen until after Christmas this year as after that point the system will be crossing the 2nd year of successful operation. Mine may not be the most eye pleasing setup, I know that, but it all started as an experiment and has gone through numerous changes to get to the point it is at now. I think your goals are definitely reachable for the sub ambient water and I am looking forward to seeing your finished results and what it does for you!
October 12, 2014 5:56:02 PM

Thank You for the extender block advice. I have ordered it.

"Nice work so far, I'm getting excited for you! :) "
Me too! I'm like a 10 year old kid on Christmas eve, yet I'm much older than that : )
Speaking of Christmas, this build should be done shortly after that. Once completed, I will post temps, benchmarks and more pics. The complete system specs will be as follows.

CASE: Lian-Li PC-A70F
PSU: Corsair AX1200i
CPU: 3970x
MB: ASUS Sabertooth X79
MEM: 16gb G-Skill Ripjaws 1866 @ 8-9-9-24
SSD: 2x Samsung 256gb 850 pro's in raid 0
HDD: WD Black SATAIII 1TB
SOUND: Creative Sound Blaster Z
GPU's: 2x GTX 690's
DVD-RW: Plextor
Blu-Ray: LG
MONITOR: BenQ XL2420T 120hz.
KEYBOARD: Logitech G510
MOUSE: Logitech G700
SPEAKERS: Logitech Z906 5.1 500 watt
OS: Win7 Pro x64

CPU WB: EK Supremacy EVO plexi
GPU WB's: XSPC Razor
MOSFET WB: Alphacool
RAD: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Dual 140mm Radiator
RES: Alphacool Lighttower
PUMPS: 2x D5's
FANS: Cougar CFD14HBB
TUBING: PETG 3/8x1/2
FITTINGS: Monsoon Economy
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
October 13, 2014 2:11:17 AM

I'm not sure you've planned enough radiator for 2 GTX690s those are dual GPU cards, you might better rethink your radiator cooling field for your GPUs?

When I was running 2 580GTX I was running 2 radiators a Black Ice 240 and a Black Ice 360 and they were sufficient, for the 2 single core cards, but with you running 2 dual core cards?
October 13, 2014 3:26:21 PM

I currently run a stock 690 in my rig. I bought it soon after it released for 999$. I had no plans on getting another because that 4th GPU would be of no use 90% of the time and I can't justify the price/performance ratio. However, I just bought a second 690 from a friend who gave me a deal I COULD NOT RESIST. His 690 was the same model I already have and it is already fitted with a XSPC water block. He offered the card, water block and alphacool rad to me for 350$ (That's not a typo) I told him I would take it but I just need to see it in action first. He launched Furmark which is very heat intensive and ran it for about 15 minutes. Temps never exceeded 40° so I figure I will atleast try both cards on that rad and see how it goes before I go spending more cash.
Keep in mind the lithography of a 580 and 690 are quite different. Fermi 40nm vs. Kepler 28nm. If I remember right, the 580 was known to run quite hot?
a c 249 K Overclocking
a c 110 à CPUs
October 14, 2014 3:14:46 AM

CustomBuilt said:
I currently run a stock 690 in my rig. I bought it soon after it released for 999$. I had no plans on getting another because that 4th GPU would be of no use 90% of the time and I can't justify the price/performance ratio. However, I just bought a second 690 from a friend who gave me a deal I COULD NOT RESIST. His 690 was the same model I already have and it is already fitted with a XSPC water block. He offered the card, water block and alphacool rad to me for 350$ (That's not a typo) I told him I would take it but I just need to see it in action first. He launched Furmark which is very heat intensive and ran it for about 15 minutes. Temps never exceeded 40° so I figure I will atleast try both cards on that rad and see how it goes before I go spending more cash.
Keep in mind the lithography of a 580 and 690 are quite different. Fermi 40nm vs. Kepler 28nm. If I remember right, the 580 was known to run quite hot?


350 bucks! YES! :)  What a deal! :) 

I still think you'll be short on rad space.

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