Beginer wc loop for my cpu

i have already read up all i need to know about water cooling and i found the water cooling kit is it any good
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  1. I'd have a larger rad but yes, they are good kits, I know its hard finding stuff in Oz so check out the W/c sticky for some alternate vendors you may be able to use :)
  2. oh sry i live in australia and shop here sometimes
  3. ** I know its hard finding stuff in Oz **
    I know that, thats why I sympathised with the 'hard to find gear' message :)
    theres a few listed vendors though in the sticky and they are worldwide so worth checking out
    **Edit, my bad, its in the Worldwide list :P
  4. The 2k ones get loud on full whack but yes, I have some on a couple of my rads and on a fancontroller, they are decent enough, I wouldn't recommmend an allinone cooler like the H60 though, you want at least 240 of rad in aus with four fans on it so a H100 with four fans would be a decent enough call
    I don't usually suggest allinone coolers though, I prefer 'real' loops
  5. and i have a h60 now but i want to do a custom loop
  6. If you are set on a single 120 rad then is the best option there, but is the size you really want, that pumps not the best but if this is just for a Cpu then it will suffice
  7. Take a look in the Watercooling gallery, many folks mount rads externally, either on a side or top, hanging off the back even, don't let internal space prevent you from having enough radspace :)
  8. ok so that pump is crap for cooling my cpu
  9. Nope, it will do for just the Cpu, but if you were adding gfx cards and more radiators later, its not going to be up to it,
  10. ok i wil get that frist pump i linked
  11. This one is about five dollars more than your first choice, but is much better and will handle future expansion easily, I run three of the V2's and the V4's should be even better

    The X20 450l you linked is ok, but the 750l is much better
  12. is that a res and a pump in one ?
  13. Yes, the pump is inside the reservoir which when full, helps keep pump noise to a minimum
  14. Some comps to choose from,
    Or you can find 1/2" barb fittings if you prefer
    7/16's of an inch is almost the same as halfinch (8/16") so the tubings a little tight but does fit,
    two fittings per component so two for the block, two for pump/reservoir and two for the radiator means you need six for your loop
    **Edit, if you look elsewhere the important thing to look for is the G1/4 marker, thats the thread size into the radiator and block/reservoir, do not get Bsp sized fittings as they are too small
  15. Thats the tubing you linked earlier which is what I kept in mind when looking for fittings for you,
    I thought you had "read up on W/c and knew all you needed to"? :P
    don't take that the wrong way, I'm just slightly amused by the initial statement and the following questions hehe,
  16. so it wont work
    Yes, You linked this, I found fittings that fit it, nothing to worry about
  18. ok thanks i get to buying the parts very soon thanks for all ur help
  19. No problem :)
  20. Yup, they are perfect, I didn't see those or I'd have linked them as the compression choice :),
    That will go perfectly with the
  21. I'd keep the original copper block, EK's nickel is renowned for corroding
    and I'd stress the 750L pump/res over the 450 but its still acceptable
    Tubing and fittings are fine, click to buy whenever you are ready mate
  22. hey will i see better performce with a custom water loop than my h60
  23. Despite that rad being a single 120, its still a thicker rad than the H60's so thats better, and you will be using distilled water which is better for transferring heat than the premix junk in the H60, again, good,
    you will see much better performance with a larger rad but as mentioned, even a thicker 120 is fine, just have pushpull fans on it for maximum capabilities
  24. well some other person said this 120mm rad like that will probably perform worse then some AiO kits. If that is all you can fit in your case, I would just recommend something like a H80i. If you have the room, get a lot larger rad, like 360mm, otherwise you will be spending quite a bit of cash and probably see no better performance then a air cooler. is that true
  25. I disagree with whomever they are on the first point,
    its a thicker rad, which means more surface area to allow dissipation of heat through fins, physics makes it a better cooling medium, there is no argument to bring
    and I did try several times to persuade you to go for a 240 rad but as you seem less than keen to modify to accomodate a larger rad then a thicker 120 is a comparable substitute, and I am certain you will see at least 3-5'C drop on your temps compared to the H60, possibly more with good fans in pushpull on it
  26. Its spot on and what I would have recommended had you initially been open to a 240 rad,
    I started my own loop with an RX240 kit which is a thicker rad but they don't seem to do those anymore,
    but the Rs240 kit is way better than the H60 especially once you get four fans on it
  27. skitz9417 said:

    I very recently moved from the H60 to the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240. Comes with everything you'll need. When it comes to performance I haven't seen a big change, mostly the difference is more stable temp wise and the option to add additional devices.

    If you have hard bends get 90 degree barbs, they're cheap. The other alternative is to dip the tube in hot water for a minute then bend and hold till it hardens again. Dipping in hot water helps when putting the tube on the barbs as well.
  28. actually i just measure the rad i linked and it wont fit in my case because it going to hit my motherboard
  29. It has aluminium in it so no, google galvanic corrosion for an explanation on that :)
    and you could mount the rad on top of your case as mentioned before, the xspc kit comes with some brackets that work really well as radiator mounts, I used them for just that function myself

    Mod on man, its half of the W/c game :)
    **Edit, ignore the two reservoirs in front of the rad, they're just my touch of class :P
  30. Agreed. Looking at the case that you have posted it has the pass-thru for tube. Go with a 240 external rad

    EDIT: I don't have any close up of the rad but it uses the same brackets that you can see in Motopsychojdn's post. What you see in my picture is exactly what comes with the XSPC 750 RS240 kit.

    Motopsychojdn, love that radiator.
  31. this is my case where do u think i should put it
  32. To avoid any serious modding I would mount it as Mop has, hanging off the rear with the tubing fed through the grommets provided
  33. The included hardware with the kit is a pain when it comes to connecting to the radiator. Get some 90 degree barbs to make the connection easier. You won't have to bend the tube very much.

    Something like this:
  34. **The included hardware with the kit is a pain when it comes to connecting to the radiator**
    That would depend very much on how you wanted to mount it,
    I had no issues with the included fittings but if tight bends were needed then angled fittings would be well advised :)
  35. hey where can i get sum cheap red coolant from
  36. You don't, you buy red tubing instead and that won't gunk up your blocks
    I know the Xspc kit includes clear tubing, but dyes are rarely recommended in W/c circles due to them breaking down eventually so its red tubing or clear, but no dyes if you wish to avoid problems
  37. a another person said this Also, a water loop like that is BRUTAL overkill for an AM3 cpu, even a hexa core.
    I'd reccomend to get a big air cooler like the NZXT Havik 140, Thermalright Silver Arrow, Noctua NH-D14, Thermalright True Spirit 140 or Thermalright HR-02 Macho instead and spend the extra money on a better cpu and motherboard later on. Something like an I5 3570k and an Asrock Z77 Extreme 6, or a Gigabyte z77x-ud3h.
    Either that or an FX-6300 and a Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3. what do u think
  38. With Watercooling there is no such thing as overkill, just a quieter cooler system

    plus once you get bitten by the bug you can look at adding a tec plate into the loop and going for subambient temps, further increasing your clocking headroom,
    an aircooler is not going to cool as well as a W/c loop, both are hit by ambient temps but W/c deals with things better so enabling lower temps but if you are happy with air then yup, grab the updated board and chip, maybe W/c it down the line
  39. well i was going fx 4300 and a new fx supported motherboard but im staying with my cpu and my temps are 38idle-54load so im going change out my h60 for a wc loop
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