First time Building

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: I am actually going to link Monitors and things as well.
PARTS PREFERENCES: First time building so no idea.
OVERCLOCKING: Possibly, if I learn how. SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Possibly Crossfire.
MONITOR RESOLUTION: Monitors most likely will be around 20-22".
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Any information on building, rather it is using gloves, videos showing how to do place parts. Recommendations for any parts. I am hoping to build a good computer that could last 3+ years. Such as crossfire cards, etc. Also if I forget anything please tell me. The Cheaper it is the happier I will be.
Case: Antec Twelve Hundred - First build so want a big tower so that I can maneuver.
CPU: Intel Core i7 Processor i7-930 2.80GHz
RAM: Corsair 6GB (3 x 2GB) 1600
Blu-Ray / DVD Burner: LG Electronics 8X Blu-ray SATA Writer Drive
Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB
Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D Premium X58 or EVGA 141-BL-E760-A1 X58 Classified
PSU: Corsair 1000HX 1000-Watt HX
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro and Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound
GPU/Graphics Card: Diamond Radeon 5870 ( Possibly Two for Crossfire Later On. ) OR Radeon 5970 if possible.
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
(I would use the OEM for the builders Pack, however, not sure if I need an existing OS to do that.)
Mouse: Logitech MX 518 OR Razer Salmosa
Keyboard: Logitech Access Keyboard 600 OR Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard
Speakers: Logitech S-220
Monitor: Please suggest any.
Note: Please suggest anything. Tips on building, how to guides, anything please. I am hoping to make a Gaming PC that will last. I thought about the Crossfire thing. Also, is all the parts compatible?
41 answers Last reply
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  1. Obsdian, That would save a good amount of money. =D
    Also, I am planning if the computer lasts, maybe to upgrade, or do the Crossfire. I plan to play MMORPG's, such as Tera Online. Then other games, Battlefield Bad Company 2 may be one.
  2. Pardon me for the double post. Is all the parts that I listed, even the different motherboards, etc, compatible?
  3. looks good but have a look round here for a good heatsink

    the cooler master hypr 212+ current best for buck prformance

    the asus board has sata 6gb/s and usb 3.0 which the other lacks
  4. Thanks so much for replying. I never even thought about using the Cooler Master Heat sink. As I was mainly looking at New Egg to get an idea on the reviews there. So is this the correct one?

    Also, what do you recommend as far as the Graphics card? It seems the 5870 is really popular. It would save me a good amount as well. Just what about upgrading later on? Plus, I read some where that they are planning to make a 5890 or something of the sort. What about the brands? Diamond, XFX, Sapphire

    Oh! What about the Solid State Drive, what exactly is it for?
  5. the 5870 is a good card it should hold a yr bout before it will be even really pushed i like xfx and asus and msi just cuz their warranty covers overvolt clocking sapphire always have rules the special series cards from ati the also good

    thats the right heat sink

    ssd's are like hard drives just super super fast its mostly used for faster boot times
  6. +1 for SSD
  7. Stick to the PSU, It's the flat out best you can get at any price.

    (But a massive overkill, but overkill is good)

    And get a hyper 212+, and a Haf-922.
  8. Builder Bob, why a Haf 922? I looked it up, it is also a Full Tower case.

    Cory, Seems you like SSD's. =D

    Obsidian, as for the SSD thing, it seems it has smaller space. I read some other thread where people were discussing it. I believe they mainly use a small SSD to put the OS on. If that is the case, when building a computer and installing the OS, exactly how would one go about that? Do you choose which Hard drive / SSD to install it on or will the computer automatically choose?
  9. Uh, the Haf-922 is cheaper, and higher quality than the 1200.

    And I belive the HAF-922 is even larger as well.

    Just a better all round case.

    Personally, I would not recoemnd an SSD, (misuse of funds on a gaming build) but if you do get one, just click Intsall to C/D/ whatever SSD is when loading the OS.
  10. It is actually a smart idea to have a smaller C drive and a larger D drive for all your files. If anything ever happens and windows goes corrupt all your files on your D drive should still be safe.

    Your bios will see 2 hard drives you just select which one you want to boot from then install windows.

    SSD's have an access time of .01ms while HDDs have an access time of 8-10ms.
  11. I apologize, the HAF-922 is a Mid Tower, I got it confused. Thought it was a 932.

    Cory, You also have to have an adapter or converter as well? I mean for the SSD.

    Also, in general should I just do Crossfire 5870's? Or just one 5870 and later down the road like Obsidian said.
  12. the 922 is "mid tower" but in reality it is larger than many full tower cases, such as the antec 1200.

    It's realy a full tower advertised as a mid tower so noobs buy the HAF-932 instead, thinking the HAF-922 os to small for them.

    And starting the build with Xfire si bad idea, Zero upgrade path.

    Buy a HAF-922, and a 5970, and a Hyper 212+.
  13. the cp1000 doesn fit in other cases but big antec's get the hx1000 with the haf 922 or even hx850
  14. Yep, Get a Hyper 212 and a 5970, but the CP-1000 is only usable with the 902 and 1200 from Antec.

    And the HX seris>Cp seris any day.
  15. For the record, the HX seris are the flat out best 10/10 PSUs in the world.
  16. PSU is way oversized for that build....two 5870's only needs 600 watts. Would recommend a CP-850

    Consider newegg, I'm thinking you will save money.

    For example:

    Antec 1200 w/ CP-850 $244...saves $26 (even if amazon throws in free shipping, still cheaper)

    Other possibilities:

    Pick a HS from the top 3 or 4 here:

    pick a TIM from the top few here:

    Note about AS5

    Here is the Arctic Silver 5 recommended cure time instruction from the manufacturers web site:

    Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

    So by my estimation of this statement it would take almost a year of normal use to properly cure the AC5 compound, or almost nine days of continuous power cycles to meet their recommendation.

    For performance and ease of installation, the Prolimatech Megahalems I find fits both criteria. Here's what I'm putting in new builds Mega w/ IC Diamond TIM and twin Scythe PWMfans (make sure ya MoBo can handle the fan wattage). ($65 for the HS, $7 for TIM, $11 each for two PWM fans and $7 for a Y cable splitter).

    Hard Drives - Check out the performance charts and pick whatever 500 GB per platter drive performs best under your usage patterns. The 2 TB WD Black and XT from Seagate are good choice but at smaller capacities, you are limited to the Seagate 7200.12 or the Spinpoint F3. The 7200.12 excels in gaming, multimedia and pictures whereas the F3 wins at music and movie maker. See the comparisons here (copy past link in manually, link won't work in forum):


    There's new 1 TB HD out from WD but I haven't seen it rev'd yet.

    No need for a 5870 w/ a 20" monitor....suggest 1920 x 1200 $279
  17. Would recomend HX-1000 anyday, 1kw unit for only 200$.
  18. By the way, as for the OS will it matter if I get the OEM one? I will not be upgrading from this computer, as I do not have the XP disc or anything of the sort.

    Would a Intel 40 GB SSD make the general performance of loading things faster? Like surfing the web, turning the computer on/off.
  19. OEM is fine.

    Yes about the SSD. Windows will load faster and as soon as your in windows your applications installed on it respond instantly.
  20. Cory, What I meant for the OEM thing is will I need anything else, like an Old Windows XP install disc, or will it just install Windows 7, just does not come with all the packaging, etc. Also the SSD I mentioned was around $130.00, my other question about it is rather if it is really worth it? I mean as for faster OS and the OS Applications that is awesome. Still the space seems small, plus what of the cache thing?

    $84..great deal won't last long
    Same as the Intel Drive w/o TRIM support although you can flash it to the Intel firmware with TRIM.
    In my personal experience I would highly recommend a SSD.

    OEM discs are fine. You won't need an old XP disc. It is the same as retail w/o tech support and a flashy box.
  22. Gyro said:
    By the way, as for the OS will it matter if I get the OEM one? I will not be upgrading from this computer, as I do not have the XP disc or anything of the sort.

    Would a Intel 40 GB SSD make the general performance of loading things faster? Like surfing the web, turning the computer on/off.

    If you're going to get an SSD, at least egt a fast one.

    Get an 80GB X25-M or faster or just stay away from SSDs.
  23. builderbobftw said:
    If you're going to get an SSD, at least egt a fast one.

    Get an 80GB X25-M or faster or just stay away from SSDs.

    Nonsense. The 40gb Intel/Kingston drive is still much faster than a regular hard drive. The 80gb Intel drive is nice if you can find it for $200.
  24. Right, But why pay 125$ for a slow 40gb ssd, when you can get a fster one for same price per gig?

    Paying same price per gig for slow ssd compared to fast one=Nonsense.
  25. Sorry for asking so many questions. I believe some one mentioned this in another thread.

    Would that be better then the Western Digital? Also, how does one go about formatting a drive? Or does it do it automatically?

    Seeing as Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound takes so long and looking on the list that was posted. Would this be just as good, I believe it is the same type.
  26. Uh, THe HDD is a good buy.
  27. Is there a difference in the quality of the Hard Drives?
  28. Spinpoint is better.

    And buy of Newegg, cheaper.
  29. I never ordered off New egg, although I read/hear about them a lot. Just some what skeptical.
  30. Why?

    Better, Cheaper.
  31. I know, I just have not ordered anything from them. Plus, with all the components I would be ordering, it would be a pretty good amount of money.

    On another note, which case would be best? Antec 1200 or HAF 932? I read that the Antec does not have the extension for the motherboard to get to the PSU and the HAF does.
  32. Niether the HAF-922 is the best buy out there.
  33. Should I get a 8-Pin + 12v Extension thing? Being my first time building I do not want to pull to hard on the wires connecting to the motherboard. Just thinking like that makes me nervous.
  34. Just get an HX-1000 and a HAF-922 and you will be fine.
  35. Okay, anything else a person needs? Such as extra cables? to connect the Graphics cards? Also, which brand of graphic cards should I go with. The five I actually know of is:

  36. Whatever s cheapest, If the same price XFX.
  37. Thanks Bob. =D

    Okay, let's see. It is so hard to decide which would be the best Case. I even looked up some more. XD

    Cooler Master ACTS 840
    Antec P193
    Thermaltake Armor+

    Any suggestions on a monitor? Should I get a HD one? I think it is called 1080p. Plus, which resolution? 20,21, or 23 inch
  38. Builder Bob,

    If I understand the HAF-922 is slightly smaller then the HAF-932. If I choose to get a 5970, I am worried it would fit in it.
  39. Sorry for the double post, hoping to bring this up and see if anyone knows about Latency on ram? I mean it goes from like 6-9. For example, I could get some two G.Skill single 3 GB ram at 7 Latency for roughly 10-15 off the Corsair pack.
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