I want to use these kinds of compression fittings. monsoon fittings. Will these work or will I have to use tubing if I want to use them. If I do have to use tubing with them. How can I get it to be straight as possible.
I'm thinking that some plumbers tape on the barbs, slide the collar over the acrylic tube and warming the tube over a flame to soften it is a plan,
plumbers tape will ensure the seal is good and if the tubing is soft then the collar will compress it as designed,
you would have to approach it as an experiment to begin with and when you became proficient at sealing them you can look at using it on your loop,
Just because no-ones done it, doesn't mean you can't be the first to
Thanks and I'm going to try that. I just order some cheap compression fitting and acrylic tubing and plumbers tape. We'll see if it works. I want to ask, how much psi should I use. Water cooling a computer is new to me.
My father owns a diesel mechanic shop. So I grew up on building thing so I'm not scared to try something. It just I dont want to ruin my new computer.
I'll be using the SWITFTECH Apogee Drive II with pump with a triple 120mm rad with a dual bay res on a asus maximus v formula. I'm making a special fitting for the barbs on the mobo. (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/49799x532.jpg/) so I can use compression fittings on it. Last I'm using a full EK water block on my graphic cards in sli. For the water cooling system that I'll be using. How much psi do you think that it would be.
I'm not sure the spacers needed but it is cool and shows your ability,
Psi measurement isn't asomething I factor into a loop normally, the pump will provide sufficient pressure throughout and my brain doesn't need to know the math, as long as its flowing 1Gpm or thereabouts it all good,
I hope the EK Gpu blocks aren't Nickel, if they are then Google EK Nickel problems just to read up on the issue,
A cpu and 2xGpu loop is likely to need more than a single 360 rad though, have you read through the sticky to find out how to calculate your TDP?
Sticky is at the top of the section and is full of useful info to check out
I think what OP is trying to achieve is possible via crystal links. They are used with hard piped copper tubing and the crystal links fit the bill perfectly. They also come in kits with acrylic tubing of varying lengths in case you'd want to use them on longer/wider spaced sli/crossfire setups.
The crystal links bite into whatever they are given. Thus if hard copper tubing goes with the links, I don't see any reason the acrylic tubing won't work with them.
I have been working on ways to use all types of fittings for doing a full acrylic cooling loop. The following are things I have found out about doing this.
1. Acrylic tubing can be bent just like glass tubing. You need to make sure that you do not heat it too much or 2 things will happen. First, and most likely, you will kink or deform the tubing when you are trying to bend it. Second, if it gets too hot, the acrylic will be VERY brittle after it cools.
2. It is very difficult to find the right size acrylic tubing to work with the Bitspower multi-link adapters. I am sure it is out there, but I guess I'm just not looking in the right places.
3. Heating/Cooling the acrylic too much/too quickly can cause cracking and/or bubbling.
4. Compression fittings with plumbers tape on them DO seal. There is another problem with this though and that is that due to the properties of the acrylic, you need to heat the end to get it on the fitting. This can be very tricky to do properly and can also cause the acrylic to crack after cooling.
5. Once the acrylic cools on a compression fitting, you CANNOT twist the acrylic AT ALL or it will either crack the tube or cause it to leak 90% of the time. This can make it very difficult to do any hardware swaps or even repairs without fabricating an entire new piece of acrylic for that section. It also makes it difficult to assemble the machine because you have to have all fittings installed and tightened before you attach the acrylic.
Take these things into consideration when trying to use acrylic with compression fittings as you could cause yourself a very expensive repair if you are not careful.
If anyone knows any ways around these problems feel free to let me know.
The deforming of the tubing can be avoided by filling the tube with sand or a similar inert granular material (Nothing flammable like sugar ), this helps keep the tubing in its correct shape under heating
Good to see some solid research on this though man, so thank you for that