AMD Phenom ii x2 550 BE 3.4ghz (???) Not overclocked

[azriul]

So, I've been having some heat issues with my old PC since the water cooler broke down, but that's already another topic, however, I have NOT over clocked it, it was bought from PC world (I'd doubt they would OC it) and I was doing some digging around and I could not find the 550 version to go higher than 3.1ghz.

Also, I reset the bios last night, but nothing helped with the heat issue. Anyway, what I'm asking is, did they ever make a Phenom ii x2 550 Black edition at 3.4ghz? If not, why is mine?

Thanks

 

[azriul]

Here is some full details

http://i49.tinypic.com/e6bzv4.jpg

 

[Rustyy117]

Hi

Does CPU-Z actually report the core speed as 3.4Ghz under load?

 

[azriul]

Yes, I believe so actually, it's only on 800 due to the power settings.

As I said, the water cooler died, and I replaced it and while it no longer overheats on idle, it will if I'm playing a game or something. I made another topic about it but no one seemed to help, so I'm trying to narrow down as to why it's still doing it, and I can not for the life of me see any 550 chip that goes faster than 3.1, either on wiki full list of AMD chips of amd's site itself.

 

[Rustyy117]

Yes, I believe so actually, it's only on 800 due to the power settings.

As I said, the water cooler died, and I replaced it and while it no longer overheats on idle, it will if I'm playing a game or something. I made another topic about it but no one seemed to help, so I'm trying to narrow down as to why it's still doing it, and I can not for the life of me see any 550 chip that goes faster than 3.1, either on wiki full list of AMD chips of amd's site itself.

So was the cooler not replaced after it failed?

If not then that should be done ASAP.

Check in the BIOS to make sure the CPU multi is 15.5 and the BUS speed is 200 which would give a speed of 3.1Ghz.

 

[azriul]

So was the cooler not replaced after it failed?

If not then that should be done ASAP.

Check in the BIOS to make sure the CPU multi is 15.5 and the BUS speed is 200 which would give a speed of 3.1Ghz.

Yes of course it was. I can't actually find the other thread, but no one helped me, probably because I gave a wall of text with as much details as possible. The only reply I got was "try telling us your specs first" which, were all in the opening line. So I gave up on it.

It was water cooled.

One day, I was playing. it shut down. I started it up, got to windows, shut down. Assumed it was the PSU over heating because when I had got to windows that few times, it was on 25c or something around that. Next day, turned it on, worked fine. All day, fine temps. Following day, started to shut down again. Quicker and quicker each time. I checked bios, watched temps raise up to 75c rapidly so I shut it off and waited a bit before buying a fan as I just got a new computer.

Got round to buying

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Rev-2-Cooler/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360674496&sr=8-1

Fitted it. Now temps were/are fine when idle. However, playing a game or something it will rise slowly up to dangerous temps. I tried a light indie game waves which would take my temps up to around 80 in about 3 mins. (got a bluescreen, can't remember what stop number now, had wrote it in other thread) Tried skyrim, it took a lot longer to raise temps, but probably due to being more GPU optimised I'd guess.

Added a back case fan

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerocool-Shark-Black-Dynamic-Bearing/dp/B00432T2PK/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1360674662&sr=1-4

Used artic silver on the Freezer-rev

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-3-5g-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0002VFXFE/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1360674681&sr=1-1

Made sure I cleaned it properly

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306/ref=pd_bxgy_computers_img_y

I did have to buy a generic bracket to fit it however, since the original stock watercooler seemed to remove it and have it's own. Bought a generic AM2+/AM3

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generic-Replacement-retention-Bracket-AMD/dp/B006KC5MEG/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1360674788&sr=1-1

I have reset the bios, unlike every other machine however, I couldn't see a reset to factory settings button, so I just removed the battery while I fit the fan and had a cup of coffee (15+ mins)

I'm lost what to do now. The ONLY thing I can think of, since I spread the thermal nice and evenly across the copper plate with an old Credit card from a little over pea size lump (the pre-applied got stuck to the manual, but I would have cleaned it off anyway and used my own) is one thing:

The copper plate to the artic freezer pro is quite a lot smaller than the AMD chip. Since it is seated correctly, and I didn't apply thermal to the CPU, just the copper plate, it could have been that (but, it has been on and off a few times so it's hard its chance to harden)

Still, That was (still is!) the problem to my other thread.

My problem in this one is though, why the hell is it a 3.4ghz? They've never made that chip, I've never OC'd i t, and I've reset the bios (if that resets OC'ing, i don't know, I've never wanted to OC the CPU before)

 

[Rustyy117]

It sounds like the heatsink isn't making good contact with the CPU.

What you can do as an experiment to test this is to turn off the PC, remove the cooler and check the thermal paste footprint on the CPU (providing I read your post correctly and you only applied thermal paste to the cooler and not the CPU), if there isn't a imprint of thermal paste on the CPU that is the same shape as the copper base on the cooler then that suggests there wasn't good contact between the CPU and the cooler.

Did you go into the BIOS and check the Bus speed and Multi?

 

[azriul]

I was doing that just now.

This bios is so different to any I've seen before, I've been fiddling with them for 20 years, but never too much

Anyway, I haven't changed it yet, but I did see that the multiplier was set to auto, but since I reset the bios (and it's always been 3.4ghz AFAIK, I even have a "vision" of it being 3.6ghz but I could have just been dreaming). I also see that 15.5 is 3100ghz.

I couldn't find the bus speed though, I do see "CPU Clock [200]" is that the same thing?

Anyway, in the Fox intelligent stepping page I have

CPU Clock [200]
memory speed mode [Auto]
GFX Engine clock override [Disabled]
PCI Express clock [100]
CPU multiplier Adjust [Auto] (You want me to change to 15.5)
Spread spectrum [Enabled]

But since the bios has been reset, shouldn't it actually already be on 3.1ghz? I mean what gives if it's always been 3.4ghz (I know it shouldn't be, I didn't change it, and AMD never made one)

I get a little worried with playing with the bios, so double checking.

Also in the voltage page it has the CPU voltage control disabled, should it be? A whole different matter, I'm getting BSOD on this brand new (albeit, very sadly stock built from PC world, long story as to why) which are x101s which most seem to think it's Vcore, and despite not being able to find Vcore in my new computers bios, there's PPL or something, but I'm scared to change that, yet my computers in tip top shape (only games installed, norton 360, CCleaner...in fact I keep it so unbelievably clean, and it's new, it just annoys me I'm getting these issues, it makes me wonder if PC world OC their systems, since the old one is from there too! (I should go back to building my own)..sorry, went off topic

 

[Rustyy117]

I was doing that just now.

This bios is so different to any I've seen before, I've been fiddling with them for 20 years, but never too much

Anyway, I haven't changed it yet, but I did see that the multiplier was set to auto, but since I reset the bios (and it's always been 3.4ghz AFAIK, I even have a "vision" of it being 3.6ghz but I could have just been dreaming). I also see that 15.5 is 3100ghz.

I couldn't find the bus speed though, I do see "CPU Clock [200]" is that the same thing?

Anyway, in the Fox intelligent stepping page I have

CPU Clock [200]
memory speed mode [Auto]
GFX Engine clock override [Disabled]
PCI Express clock [100]
CPU multiplier Adjust [Auto] (You want me to change to 15.5)
Spread spectrum [Enabled]

But since the bios has been reset, shouldn't it actually already be on 3.1ghz? I mean what gives if it's always been 3.4ghz (I know it shouldn't be, I didn't change it, and AMD never made one)

I get a little worried with playing with the bios, so double checking.

Also in the voltage page it has the CPU voltage control disabled, should it be? A whole different matter, I'm getting BSOD on this brand new (albeit, very sadly stock built from PC world, long story as to why) which are x101s which most seem to think it's Vcore, and despite not being able to find Vcore in my new computers bios, there's PPL or something, but I'm scared to change that, yet my computers in tip top shape (only games installed, norton 360, CCleaner...in fact I keep it so unbelievably clean, and it's new, it just annoys me I'm getting these issues, it makes me wonder if PC world OC their systems, since the old one is from there too! (I should go back to building my own)..sorry, went off topic

Yup, change the CPU Multiplier Adjust to 15.5

And yes you are correct, the CPU Clock is the same as BUS speed, leave it at 200.

I would have thought that the default settings would give a core clock of 3.1Ghz, but perhaps it's using optimized defaults or something similar.

Yup, usually BBCode 0x101 refers to not enough Vcore (Core voltage), PPL is not the same as Vcore.

PC world makes me physically sick.

 

[azriul]

Okay I changed it to 15.5 in the settings, it shows up as 3.10ghz in the system file

However, everything I try to load, goes unresponsive, and explorer crashes and restarts. I can't even load CPUz or core temps

 

[azriul]

Yup, change the CPU Multiplier Adjust to 15.5

And yes you are correct, the CPU Clock is the same as BUS speed, leave it at 200.

I would have thought that the default settings would give a core clock of 3.1Ghz, but perhaps it's using optimized defaults or something similar.

Yup, usually BBCode 0x101 refers to not enough Vcore (Core voltage), PPL is not the same as Vcore.

PC world makes me physically sick.

I just replied, but yours came after it. So see above please

Also, I had NO option with PC world, I really didn't. Won't go into details here but it is what it is. I regret it, I knew I would regret it when I did it, but as said, couldn't do anything about it sadly.

Just restarted system to give it another go, but think I will have to set it back to auto if it keeps crashing :S

 

[azriul]

Okay, restarted, core temps loaded, it's now actually hotter on idle and not really dropping at 40c.

Then CCC crashed (the AMD graphics program)

BTW you say it's using optimised defaults. I can not find ANYWHERE reset to factory settings, but ONLY (reset?) to optimised defaults

Okay...since doing that, it's all gone fucked up now. Restarts to a black screen once windows loaded, even after setting it back to auto

 

[Rustyy117]

Okay I changed it to 15.5 in the settings, it shows up as 3.10ghz in the system file

However, everything I try to load, goes unresponsive, and explorer crashes and restarts. I can't even load CPUz or core temps

Ok well that is just odd, lowering the frequency doesn't usually cause instability, is the multi the only option you changed?

If it is then change it back to auto providing 3.4Ghz was stable before.

Maybe someone else will be able to tell us why 3.1Ghz isn't stable but 3.4Ghz is....

 

[azriul]

Ok well that is just odd, lowering the frequency doesn't usually cause instability, is the multi the only option you changed?

If it is then change it back to auto providing 3.4Ghz was stable before.

Maybe someone else will be able to tell us why 3.1Ghz isn't stable but 3.4Ghz is....

Yes, it was the ONLY thing I changed.

But even after changing it back to auto, on restart it loaded something like "dwm.exe" couldn't be loaded (I'm GUESSING it was that, since I only got a quick glimps) and would explain the black screen. After shutting it down, and running it again it (so far) seems to have stablilized. Will have to see.

Here's the thing, Both from PC world (Again, no choice, also, live on an island, they destroyed every local shop here, then stopped selling gaming machines (last time I went in they had SIX desktops!) I got the best. I have had very very bad experiences with buying components online (times have changed I guess) but when you need a new PC FAST, it was my only option.

Old one x2 core 3.4 (3.1!!?)ghz
4gig ram
ATI 5750

New one
i5 2320 x4 3.0ghz
8 gig ram
ATI 6670

Yes, that was LITERALLY the best they had 3 months ago. Both same price, 2 years difference. My old one got better FPS for "some" games, and similar for others. I am unable to change ANY graphics settings via the CCC panel on this new one (No idea why, could on old, made a thread about it, got told silly answers like "just change settings in game"...wasn't my question, I do, I just want the CHOICE, and don't know why changing the AA on the card on this one doesn't do anything, but does on that). The new one, despite being a very PC clean freak and keeping every single thing up to date, clean, registry, having good protection etc, never visiting dodgy sites etc etc...I still get blue screen within 1 week of purchase. I hate PC world too.

Another thing I don't get, I rigged up the old computer to my new 47 inch HD 3d smart TV. I tried to play skyrim to test the temps, and it felt quite jerky when moving. Yet the game was smooth as butter before. I've seen someone mention before to someone it's down to refresh rates, my monitor is 60hz but my TV is 100/400hz. (Actually, did NOT get this from PC world, but the very same TV (used their model number) said 100/600hz on the plaque thing. But amazon says 400hz

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-42LM620T-42-inch-Widescreen-Freeview/dp/B007IYW3HO/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1360679254&sr=1-2-catcorr

Edit - I know it might seem like im fibbing due to the red action flags and norton, but THAT one is out of date, and I won't renew it until I can fix the heating, and it's making me a little OCD seeing them despite not being connected to the net, which I want it to be also (yeah yeah, free AV/s etc...I like norton, despite its CPU hog)

 

[azriul]

Ok well that is just odd, lowering the frequency doesn't usually cause instability, is the multi the only option you changed?

If it is then change it back to auto providing 3.4Ghz was stable before.

Maybe someone else will be able to tell us why 3.1Ghz isn't stable but 3.4Ghz is....

Okay, let's get back to the original problem.

If I were to rip out the cooler again (which, I hate doing, since it puts so much pressure on the mobo, it's a fiddly thing to fit this one and already scratched a bit of the bracket) and covered the CPU in thermal do you think that would fix the issue?

The copper plate, I would say is between 2/3rds or 3/4ths (closer to 2/3rds I'd guess) smaller than the chip. So I'm quite sure, positive really that not all of the CPU is covered in paste.

Or would it be better to buy a different cooler?

I was looking at

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-A30-Cooler/dp/B006TCSH4Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=4OZ5Y8VX08AB&coliid=IFG88OMQBE98Z

and in this case, I don't see a copper plate, just copper tubes, do you just whack the paste on that and it goes over the chip as is? shouldn't there be a plate?

 

[Rustyy117]

Yes, it was the ONLY thing I changed.

But even after changing it back to auto, on restart it loaded something like "dwm.exe" couldn't be loaded (I'm GUESSING it was that, since I only got a quick glimps) and would explain the black screen. After shutting it down, and running it again it (so far) seems to have stablilized. Will have to see.

Here's the thing, Both from PC world (Again, no choice, also, live on an island, they destroyed every local shop here, then stopped selling gaming machines (last time I went in they had SIX desktops!) I got the best. I have had very very bad experiences with buying components online (times have changed I guess) but when you need a new PC FAST, it was my only option.

Old one x2 core 3.4 (3.1!!?)ghz
4gig ram
ATI 5750

New one
i5 2320 x4 3.0ghz
8 gig ram
ATI 6670

Yes, that was LITERALLY the best they had 3 months ago. Both same price, 2 years difference. My old one got better FPS for "some" games, and similar for others. I am unable to change ANY graphics settings via the CCC panel on this new one (No idea why, could on old, made a thread about it, got told silly answers like "just change settings in game"...wasn't my question, I do, I just want the CHOICE, and don't know why changing the AA on the card on this one doesn't do anything, but does on that). The new one, despite being a very PC clean freak and keeping every single thing up to date, clean, registry, having good protection etc, never visiting dodgy sites etc etc...I still get blue screen within 1 week of purchase. I hate PC world too.

Another thing I don't get, I rigged up the old computer to my new 47 inch HD 3d smart TV. I tried to play skyrim to test the temps, and it felt quite jerky when moving. Yet the game was smooth as butter before. I've seen someone mention before to someone it's down to refresh rates, my monitor is 60hz but my TV is 100/400hz. (Actually, did NOT get this from PC world, but the very same TV (used their model number) said 100/600hz on the plaque thing. But amazon says 400hz

http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-42LM620T-42-inch-Widescreen-Freeview/dp/B007IYW3HO/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1360679254&sr=1-2-catcorr

Edit - I know it might seem like im fibbing due to the red action flags and norton, but THAT one is out of date, and I won't renew it until I can fix the heating, and it's making me a little OCD seeing them despite not being connected to the net, which I want it to be also (yeah yeah, free AV/s etc...I like norton, despite its CPU hog)

Well it should be stable now if it's back to what it was and it was stable before...

Yeah sometimes you just have to buy from PC world, I had to once as I needed a graphics card for a LAN event and mine died the day before.

Did you check the frame rate with fraps?

It's also possible that your TV has a higher native resolution than your PC monitor which would reduce the performance, the refresh rate of the TV shouldn't be a problem, sometimes the framerate and the refresh rate are in sync (Vsync) so the frame rate cannot go any higher than the refresh rate, however anything over 30 FPS is generally considered smooth so even if your TV is only 100Hz (still pretty high) it would still be more than enough.

 

[Rustyy117]

Okay, let's get back to the original problem.

If I were to rip out the cooler again (which, I hate doing, since it puts so much pressure on the mobo, it's a fiddly thing to fit this one and already scratched a bit of the bracket) and covered the CPU in thermal do you think that would fix the issue?

The copper plate, I would say is between 2/3rds or 3/4ths (closer to 2/3rds I'd guess) smaller than the chip. So I'm quite sure, positive really that not all of the CPU is covered in paste.

Or would it be better to buy a different cooler?

I was looking at

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-A30-Cooler/dp/B006TCSH4Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=4OZ5Y8VX08AB&coliid=IFG88OMQBE98Z

and in this case, I don't see a copper plate, just copper tubes, do you just whack the paste on that and it goes over the chip as is? shouldn't there be a plate?

Yes the cooler should make contact with the entire surface of the CPU for maximum efficiency, What I was saying before was by removing the cooler you would be able to see if the cooler was actually making contact properly with the CPU (in the area where the cooler makes contact with the CPU) by looking at the thermal paste on the CPU. Some of the thermal paste should have been transferred onto the CPU.

It would be best to buy a cooler that covers the entire CPU surface, the one you linked too is called a direct heatpipe touch cooler because the heatpipes of the cooler make direct contact with the CPU, although you still have to apply thermal paste.
I haven't read any reviews of that cooler though so you may want to do that before buying to see if its any good.

 

[mouse24]

Well since its overheating with an aftermarket cooler its either you improperly/putting to much or to little thermal paste. Remember only the side of about a pea in the middle, less is more, seriously. You don't need to cover the CPU in thermal paste just the area around the middle. It might help to be its not absolutely necessary. What you are putting the heatsink on is actually an integrated heat spreader and the cpu cores are in the middle of it.

It could also be voltage, what do you have your CPU voltage set to? (might be called Vcore or something different depending on mobo)

If you still can't find it you can try disabling C'n'Q (cool and quiet) and checking voltage with GPU-z or something.

 

[azriul]

Yes the cooler should make contact with the entire surface of the CPU for maximum efficiency, What I was saying before was by removing the cooler you would be able to see if the cooler was actually making contact properly with the CPU (in the area where the cooler makes contact with the CPU) by looking at the thermal paste on the CPU. Some of the thermal paste should have been transferred onto the CPU.

It would be best to buy a cooler that covers the entire CPU surface, the one you linked too is called a direct heatpipe touch cooler because the heatpipes of the cooler make direct contact with the CPU, although you still have to apply thermal paste.
I haven't read any reviews of that cooler though so you may want to do that before buying to see if its any good.

Yeah, I will have to do it later now, I am out of energy and so sick I think I could end up transferring a virus to my computer.

I've been fiddling for weeks now buying new things one after the other, bracket, case fan, exhaust fan etc..by the time it all comes I can barely even move, so I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy it anyway rather than wait until I'm better only to find out I still need to. I don't know :S

How are those types do you know? Reason I didn't get another watercooler was due to all the comments everyone was complaining about them leaking over the whole system and I didn't want to splash out on an expensive one, but in hindsight, after all that I bought, it would have been cheaper anyway.

 

[azriul]

Well since its overheating with an aftermarket cooler its either you improperly/putting to much or to little thermal paste. Remember only the side of about a pea in the middle, less is more, seriously. You don't need to cover the CPU in thermal paste just the area around the middle. It might help to be its not absolutely necessary. What you are putting the heatsink on is actually an integrated heat spreader and the cpu cores are in the middle of it.

It could also be voltage, what do you have your CPU voltage set to? (might be called Vcore or something different depending on mobo)

If you still can't find it you can try disabling C'n'Q (cool and quiet) and checking voltage with GPU-z or something.

It should say the voltage in the top image I linked with cpuz and all the other programs.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=e6bzv4&s=6

Also, I thought cool n quiet only reduced voltage while idle etc, which is actually very good temps.

 

[mouse24]

It should say the voltage in the top image I linked with cpuz and all the other programs.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=e6bzv4&s=6

Also, I thought cool n quiet only reduced voltage while idle etc, which is actually very good temps.

Nope it reduces multiplier + voltage to whatever is currently required. Thats why I was asking for a voltage reading with it off as that should give us a proper reading.

Also go into your bios and make sure its the most recent version: http://www.foxconnchannel.com/ProductDetail.aspx?T=motherboard&U=en-us0000373

Possible that they updated the auto settings with one of the updates.

Also I noticed that your ram wasn't set properly, they should be both set to the lowest value out of the two. In your case you have one at 400mhz and one at 333mhz, they are 800mhz sticks so put them both at 400. (might be 800 in the bios, but in CPUz its 400, because well... ddr is ddr) and have the timings set to 5-5-5-18.

The copper plate to the artic freezer pro is quite a lot smaller than the AMD chip. Since it is seated correctly, and I didn't apply thermal to the CPU, just the copper plate, it could have been that (but, it has been on and off a few times so it's hard its chance to harden)

Still, That was (still is!) the problem to my other thread.

This worries me, did you take off the heatsink and put it back on a couple times without removing and reapplying the thermal paste? If so, redo the thermal paste and don't spread it with a credit card, let it do its own thing and spread it naturally. Theres many debates about doing it this way vs credit card but I don't feel like getting into one of those. Just note that doing it with a credit card creates air bubbles and traps heat in the air pockets, blah blah blah.

 

[azriul]

Nope it reduces multiplier + voltage to whatever is currently required. Thats why I was asking for a voltage reading with it off as that should give us a proper reading.

Also go into your bios and make sure its the most recent version: http://www.foxconnchannel.com/ProductDetail.aspx?T=motherboard&U=en-us0000373

Possible that they updated the auto settings with one of the updates.

Also I noticed that your ram wasn't set properly, they should be both set to the lowest value out of the two. In your case you have one at 400mhz and one at 333mhz, they are 800mhz sticks so put them both at 400. (might be 800 in the bios, but in CPUz its 400, because well... ddr is ddr) and have the timings set to 5-5-5-18.

The copper plate to the artic freezer pro is quite a lot smaller than the AMD chip. Since it is seated correctly, and I didn't apply thermal to the CPU, just the copper plate, it could have been that (but, it has been on and off a few times so it's hard its chance to harden)

Still, That was (still is!) the problem to my other thread.

This worries me, did you take off the heatsink and put it back on a couple times without removing and reapplying the thermal paste? If so, redo the thermal paste and don't spread it with a credit card, let it do its own thing and spread it naturally. Theres many debates about doing it this way vs credit card but I don't feel like getting into one of those. Just note that doing it with a credit card creates air bubbles and traps heat in the air pockets, blah blah blah.

I will check, but not right now, I honestly feel I am dying, I struggled to even bother with all that earlier (Had operation couple weeks ago and the day I stopped anti-biotics, a nice family member decided to give me some virus crap)

I have no idea why the ram is like that, it wasn't changed from stock (in fact, the water cooler going was the first issue I had in 2 years of it) and I had never changed the bios, until last night when I pulled out the battery. Not sure I'm happy with changing it after seeing what happened when I changed the multiplier earlier, there was no mistake, 15.5 and it said 3.1ghz but it was totally screwed. Though I will (not now, just replying) check the bios for it.

but what do you mean about the heatsink? I cleaned off the preapplied because the packaging was borked from the post, so it wasn't very well done up and kinda just fell out the plastic holder thing getting all over everything, so I cleaned it (lint free, microfibre), fit the bracket on, cleaned the CPU also from the old thermal left on from the water cooler, spread it over the copper plate as smoothly as I could, and put it on, screwed it in, put the fan on plugged it into the mobo, turned on the computer and that was that

Edit - I see what you mean now, I think...the off and on thing was regarding, turning my computer on. I've heard numerous times that the first time you've turned on a computer after setting TP it won't work because it hasn't properly hardened. I didn't mean the heatsink was off and on.

 

[mouse24]

I will check, but not right now, I honestly feel I am dying, I struggled to even bother with all that earlier (Had operation couple weeks ago and the day I stopped anti-biotics, a nice family member decided to give me some crap)

I have no idea why the ram is like that, it wasn't changed from stock (in fact, the water cooler going was the first issue I had in 2 years of it) and I had never changed the bios, until last night when I pulled out the battery. Not sure I'm happy with changing it after seeing what happened when I changed the multiplier earlier, there was no mistake, 15.5 and it said 3.1ghz but it was totally screwed. Though I will (not now, just replying) check the bios for it.

but what do you mean about the heatsink? I cleaned off the preapplied because the packaging was borked from the post, so it wasn't very well done up and kinda just fell out the plastic holder thing getting all over everything, so I cleaned it (lint free, microfibre), fit the bracket on, cleaned the CPU also from the old thermal left on from the water cooler, spread it over the copper plate as smoothly as I could, and put it on, screwed it in, put the fan on plugged it into the mobo, turned on the computer and that was that

Edit - I see what you mean now, I think...the off and on thing was regarding, turning my computer on. I've heard numerous times that the first time you've turned on a computer after setting TP it won't work because it hasn't properly hardened. I didn't mean the heatsink was off and on.

Ahhhhh, I see what you were saying now with the on/off thing. I reread some of the thread trying to find any new leads and I noticed you reset the bios before trying to make changes to it. While this isn't a problem usually I have found on cheap motherboards that the auto settings don't properly detect things. (or rather they just set them weirdly for whatever reason) On my particular motherboard when I reset the bios it changes the Vcore to the max my processor allows before damage occurs. It also changes my ram speed to literally half of what its rated for.

So its entirely possible that the bios reset caused a few settings to get defaulted to the wrong settings.

Edit: regardless, get well soon and try it out once you feel better

 

[azriul]

Ahhhhh, I see what you were saying now with the on/off thing. I reread some of the thread trying to find any new leads and I noticed you reset the bios before trying to make changes to it. While this isn't a problem usually I have found on cheap motherboards that the auto settings don't properly detect things. (or rather they just set them weirdly for whatever reason) On my particular motherboard when I reset the bios it changes the Vcore to the max my processor allows before damage occurs. It also changes my ram speed to literally half of what its rated for.

So its entirely possible that the bios reset caused a few settings to get defaulted to the wrong settings.

Edit: regardless, get well soon and try it out once you feel better

Actually, again, not quite true

I left parts out again, due to being ignored completely in the last.

Assume I did all as above, except 2 things, reset the bios, and fit a case fan.

I had the CPU heatsink+fan working etc, but there was no rear case fan. Due to my newer computer not having one as stock, I didn't think it was needed.

What I did was everything as before, with fine idle temps, dangerous high load temps.

Then I installed the case fan (due to it arriving later anyway) and reset the bios as I did this, in hopes that it would do something to the heat sink.

So in short, I installed Artic cooler, turned on the computer, still issues, but not like when the watercooler started dying (didn't auto shut down and get far too hot doing nothing but loading windows)

tried next day a couple times, still too high on games/high loads.

Installed case fan + reset bios.

Where we are today. I also have an exhuast fan to go in a PCI slot, but really, don't think that's much point as of yet until I refit the heatsink to at least see what omgitzfatal says about the paste applying to the cpu or not.

Here's a strange thing btw. I loaded waves (cheap indie game, which as I said, seemed to increase the speed faster than something like skyrim. I'd try BF3 but not connecting until I get it working so I can renew norton) both at the same time on both computers.

It got hotter a lot faster on my intel, but naturally peaked at around 54c. (Planetside 2, a very badly optimised game, and very heavy CPU will peak at 59-60) but took longer to get to 54c on my AMD, the only problem, it didn't peak but continues to keep going. I turn it off at around 70-74 as I don't want to damage it / get a BSOD.

IF and this is a BIG if, I can recalled, the BSOD was 124 last time when it over heated, but that's a big shot in the dark at trying to remember the number

 

[azriul]

Well it should be stable now if it's back to what it was and it was stable before...

So, I thought I'd have another go and cleaned off the paste. This time I'll just put a tiny stripe along the CPU and mount it.

It did seem as though it was fitting correctly, and it did leave an imprint of thermal on the CPU as you asked.

However, something I noticed...I don't have the metal thing (don't know what it's called) going around the CPU

I took a photo

http://i46.tinypic.com/34z0fu0.jpg

I mean something like this (ignore the red ring, it's just a google image)

http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/2491/cpube.jpg

Is that important? ;p