Haf x setup with pictures

Hey guys, a quick question what you guys think about my current setup.

My equipment

I7 3770k Oc'ed to 4.5Ghz with offset voltage to +95
Max temp around 85 with Prime95 testing.

Gainward Gtx 680 SLI

Cooler Master Silent pro 1200W

Low profile Corsair 1600MHZ 16GB (4x4)

Asus P8z77-Deluxe

SSD- Samsung 830 series x2 128 GB in raid

Western digital-Cavier green 2TB
-Cavier black 1Tb
Seagate barracuda- 1TB

Windows 7

Cooling setup

-Top- a 140mm fan in the drive bays, that came with the Case (intake)
-Bottom 230mm fan that was standard with the case (intake)

Top- 2xMegaflow 200mm Red led (exhaust)

Side fan- Megaflow 200mm Red led (intake)

Back fan-Noctua Nf-P14 Flx case fan 140mm (exhaust)

Cpu cooler- Noctua D-14 with 3 fans.

Fan controller
Nzxt sentry mesh

2x NZXT Sleeved LED Kit Cable 2M Red

Logitech g510

Razer Naga molten edition.

Monitor stand
Xfx tripple monitor stand

3x Benq 60Hz monitors "24"

Asus Vulcan Pro

Using the Asus Ea-N66 as wireless card.

Here are some pictures (updated)
inside my case (1) the fan cable that is hanging down is no longer visible.

inside my case (2)

inside my case(3)

inside my case (4)

The front fans

top fans

Side panel on

No grills

My setup

Anyhing you guys want improved?
24 answers Last reply
More about setup pictures
  1. Hi,

    Looks excellent mate, nice to see you've given thought to cable management, the HAF X isn't to my taste but it looks like a clean build none-the-less.

    Powerful Rig too :D I bet that SSD raid array will be insanely quick when you have it setup :)
  2. I like to have the cables in order :)
  3. You have a HAF-X, fix those cables.
  4. Allright, i'll do some fixing! i'll upload new pics!
  5. Looks nice, what i've read. Putting on a 3'rd fan on the heatsink didn't make more then 1-2 degrees lower temps, compared to more fan noise. I'll might remove the rear grill, i can hide the wires a bit more, I'm going to start on it any minute now, i won't make any changes on the side panel. the 200mm fan that blows there is great for my gtx 680 sli, which causes some heat.
  6. but are you talking about to put on a 3'rd fan on the heatsink + having a fan in the rear? it stands in my spec setup how many fans i got :)
  7. removed the rear grill

    (updated) Inside case

    Removed all the grills.
  8. it's a bit cleaner in the case now.
  9. amuffin said:
    You have a HAF-X, fix those cables.

    good enogh? :bounce:
  10. Quote:
    Put that rear 140mm noctua fan on your heatsink instead of on the back fan grill. Just email Noctua, they'll send you a third fan clip for free from Austria. I just put a third on mine :)

    Then cut a hole in your rear fan grill. If you don't want to, you'll have to do some testing to see if your temps are better with no fan there, or whatever fan there. I've seen tests showing even a high quality fan on the back causes temps to go higher than if you have nothing.

    Put your 24pin cable in the slot higher up. Ew.

    Is that an NZXT Sleeved LED controller on the bottom slot there by the pci slot on the bottom? Unmount your power suppply (no need to rip apart cables or anything), pull it away just an inche or two, and thread the power cord to your NZXT LED controller through that little hole below the PSU clip. It'll look a million times better than seeing the cable out in the open like that.

    That molex cable you have laying out, directly behind your CD bay. Disgusting. Hide it behind the CD bay, or stuff it in if you can't do that.

    Those red/white fan cables or whatever they are at the top, hide them behind the motherboard or motherboard panel.

    Your NH-D14 fans - 'turn them' (put the clips on different sides of the fan from where it is now) so that the cables come out the top, so that you can't see them. Then stuff them under the heatsink so you can't see them, and then plugged into the mobo.

    Cut a hole in your side panel for a proper cast acrylic window. You can cut it so you keep the side intake fan, or not. I chose to throw my side intake fan out, because I felt a larger window looked better. The cheap plastic window the Haf-X has looks terrible, I'd prefer if the case didn't have a window, honestly.

    Sleeve your psu cables and 24pin cable, at the very least. With paracord, preferably.

    Here's my case:



    I've replaced the 3rd fan on the noctua with another nh-d14 140mm. I can't sleeve my PSU because it's being RMA'd. I made a huge mistake buying a CX series psu.

    The back:

    I couldn't cram the wires behind the HDD bay like everyone else does because I removed my HDD bays. A lot harder to route cables when you don't have a huge HDD drive to hide behind.

    +1, thnx for the information btw :)
  11. Quote:
    If not report the last file that loads at the bottom of the screen before it stops.http://www.***/1.jpg

  12. i ordered a new fan to attach on the heatsink, after some testing the 200mm fan does actaully reduce my Gpu temps by 4-5 degrees, which is OK imo.
    sendt a mail to Noctua about getting the attaching clips.
    If i'd really want a 100% side window, i'll just order this one.
  13. :o $110 for a side panel !

    Just do it yourself for next to nothing :sol:
  14. :O yeah, that's what i thought too, quite expensive. but i'll just stick with my current side panel. just got a text that my SSD just arrived :D so i'm going to set up my raid today!
    btw guys, what do you guys see at the right of my CPU cooler in the 2'nd picture i uploaded?

    Uploading a 3dmark extreme result also.

    and a closer picture of how i managed the Gpu cables

    i used some cable ties which i fastend on the Graphic card, and since the cable was struggling to keep inside, i used some duct tape over it.
  15. that price is actaully the same ammount i used on buying the case itself!
  16. I approve of the tidying work,
    Fabric taxidermist's tape is good for covering cables btw, matt finish looks a touch better than Duct tape but overall a very good effort
    next time you take it to bits, drill some holes near the panel sockets inside the mobo perimeter, that way you can feed them through from behine and it keeps them neater, and 'sleeve' the 20+4 and Pcie lines with fabric tape if you Cba actually sleeving them
  17. Quote:
    Yea that side panel from frozen is way overpriced. You realize the cost of a side window is less than $20 at the most and free usually besides 20 minutes of time, you can get a free sample of clear cast acrylic from a local plasticier (I have never heard of a plasticier who didn't do that).

    Plus it looks terrible imo, I hate bolt on window mods. Just not very smooth looking. I guess it really depends on the case, though.

    But also the problem with the frozencpu window is that it's extruded acrylic, the cheap acrylic you can find at lowes or homedepot. It looks a lot worse than a window made of glass or cast acrylic.

    You gotta be infinitely rich or just plain dumb to buy that window from frozencpu lol. I've seen window kits cost not too much, but they literally are just sending you a piece of acrylic and some trim and overcharging, slightly, for it and a set of instructions you could google (usually said instructions are hosted online, even).

    Don't use duct tape on computer components lol. It'll leave a sticky residue on everything. You should use mailing tape, electrical tape, painters tape, masking tape, or some other tape that doesnt leave a sticky residue behind. It does look good though. 3M sells some great doublesided tape that's very strong, clear, easily available.

    Mount the SSDs behind the case!

    oy belial, any of these Tapes u suggest?
  18. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wiring-Loom-Harness-Adhesive-Cloth-Fabric-tape-19mm-25m-/180637405593 this kind of tape
    Its known as fabric tape, taxidermist tape or wire loom tape and I find it the best stuff for cables, it doesn't reflect light so no awkard shine from your wires like you get with electrical tape and it doesn't set rock solid either
    the only thing I would mention is the adhesive can be low tack so if theres any pull on it, then set the end with superglue to seal it
  19. Is it possible to buy some sort of Molex power resistor?
    i bought 2 of the Akasa Ak178 Cold catodes, but when i turned them on, the light was so bright that it became Pink instead of red, but i read, if u reduce the power on them, it becomes red.
    so any suggestions?

    maybe i'll just try to add some red Celophane
  20. You can wire a resistor onto the 12v line to make it a 7 or 5 volt line, there probably are a million adaptors out there for sale though,
    or a variable potentiometer like a fan controller can reduce current to the cathodes inverter,
    I googled 7v fan adaptor but alter search terms and see what you find
  21. Belial strikes again! so basicly remove the yellow wire?
  22. http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137
    followed this guide, managed to get the 7v, however it made my cathode not light trough the whole bar. + the colour was stil pinky, i'll just try with wrapping some red celophane. as a last shot, if it doesn't work. well... i'll trow those stupid cathodes out.
  23. Heres what you have found out about, when you reduce voltage to cathodes, it shortens the 'beam'
    I used a fancontroller on mine to soften the glare
  24. here's som updated pictures.

    the fan cable is no longer hanging down as in the picture.

    i painted all the Psu cables black.
    added a 3'rd fan to the Heatsink, added 2 cold cathodes which i wrapped in red celophane, added 1 NZXT Sleeved LED Kit Cable 2M Red
    (got 2 of them in my computer now)
    got the ssd- samsung 830 128 GB in raid0 now.
    also bought a new mouse.

    just when i was about to finish, i managed to slip my finger into my rear exhaust fan. which made 1 of the blades fall off.
    just ordered a new one yesterday, so i'm probably getting it tomorrow.

    so basicly i'm finished, your opinions?
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