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Modify sealed liquid cooling system

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February 16, 2013 1:52:57 PM

Hello, I have been using a Asetek 760 for about a month. CPU would still get up to 150 F as it was the second to be cooled in line with the gpu. I have since purchased a separate corsair H100 to cool the cpu yet now I would like to modify the Asetek. I would like to remove the CPU block that is in line and connect the return from the GPU to the radiator. The thing it is a sealed connection and looks like a compression fitting. Any thoughts as to how I make this work?
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
February 16, 2013 2:42:59 PM

You could either leave the Cpu block hanging in space or cut the tubing and somehow join it together to make it the Gpu only loop you're after
a suitable sized sleeve would slide inside the tubing then you clamp the tubing to the sleeve,
Its not recommended and several here have modded H50's and the like with limited joy resulting
Moto
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February 17, 2013 11:37:13 AM

That one out of several would be me :) 

went from here:


to here:


It looks like a very cool project and would be a real conversation piece with your pals but it's a waste of time, money and effort.

* A word of caution, you may want to reconsider before cutting anything up. The TDP's of both CPU and GPU will def mess up your rads heat dissipation and the performance of your loop.
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February 25, 2013 2:52:18 PM

Rather than modify the loop I am going to take the extra CPU block that is not used and place it on the other side of the video card GPU with Thermal Tape. I will post a pic and if it make any difference regarding lower temps.
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a c 328 K Overclocking
February 25, 2013 5:29:48 PM

thechet said:
Rather than modify the loop I am going to take the extra CPU block that is not used and place it on the other side of the video card GPU with Thermal Tape. I will post a pic and if it make any difference regarding lower temps.


Please explain where this will be mounted in more detail...I'm rather concerned based on this post.
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a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
February 25, 2013 6:50:20 PM

Hes going to mount it on the back of the Gpu, so both sides of the gpu will be watercooled,
I like his brand of crazy :p 
Moto
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March 4, 2013 1:11:14 PM

Yes, that is exactly what I am going to do. I do not expect much as there are some caps that will interfere with a firm fit, yet I will not apply alot of pressure when attached with thermal tape and some tye wraps. It won't look pretty but I just need it to stay in place. Would suck to just have the second block hanging not being used.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 4, 2013 1:32:39 PM

Well you've got my attention - so lets see what you're going to do :) 
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a c 328 K Overclocking
March 4, 2013 2:20:45 PM

Not sure how effective it will be with thermal pads between the block and the back, but might help some? Just be certain you don't have any part of the block making contact with the back of the card or you'll have a shorted-out, dead card pretty fast.
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March 4, 2013 3:06:19 PM

I fried my GPU by starving it of airflow :p  lesson learnt about 10 years ago.
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a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
March 4, 2013 4:27:02 PM

Waiting on pics :) 
It may be that a shim is a better plan than a thermal pad, but we can work on that, on another point, cable ties? no,no,no my man, mount the rearside block using the same holes as the front block uses, you may need to McGyver some loger bolts but it would lokk neater and hold the blocks more securely
Moto
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March 4, 2013 5:07:15 PM

This is all for experimentation. If I damage the card then I will get a new card. I appreciate all input positive or negative. Thanks
Motopsychojdn for the shim idea and bolts. I am think making cut outs of the thermal pad so the first layer can sit flush around the 4 larger caps. Then adding a second or 3rd layer. I could then use a copper shim on top of that or not. For initial test I could clamp the block on with a hand clamp to see if it makes any difference.

I am waiting for the thermal pad to arrive that I bought off of ebay.



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a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
March 4, 2013 5:39:32 PM

Loking at the back of your card I'd stick with the pad plan,
it will squish up to accomodate the little black chunks and a shim won't be necessary (Or your cutout idea then as below)
If you were to mount it 'normally' though,
I would just put a little thermal paste on those and mount the block directly on top of them, and be careful tightening up the bolts for the blocks
Moto
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March 11, 2013 2:46:47 PM

My loop for the second block was not long enough. I ended up attaching the original heatsink that was on the GPU to the block and put it in front of the forward case fan that is 240mm fan. It sucks up the heat from the block but I really did not see any difference in temps. It did take it longer to reach 65 celcuis though. I am going to look at some higher speed fans for the GPU radiator to push more air thru it. The radiator is pretty thick compared to the CPU radiator so it will take more to push thru the GPU radiator.
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a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
March 12, 2013 12:19:44 PM

Interesting adaptation man, good job :) 
Shame the original plan was a no-goer but you seem to have recovered it well, and yes, it should raise your equilibruim time but won't affect overall temps I'm afraid,
Pics of the result?
Moto
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March 18, 2013 9:10:13 AM

I will post pics this week. Not very tidy but it all works. I ended up replacing the Antec TrueQuiet 120 120mm that were attached to the GPU radiator setup with Xigmatek AOS F1251 120MM fans. Huge difference. Twice the CFM in a push pull configuration. Temps dropped from 157F to 118F when at full speed of 1500rpm.
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