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February 18, 2013 1:03:50 PM

Hey guys, this is my my first build for a while that I'm doing for a buddy of mine and he's wanting to do cpu, both gpus, the mobo, and the ram. I've got his part list planned out, and was wondering what you guys thoughts about it:

Case: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Obsidian-Series-Computer-...
Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/Maximus-EXTREME-Intel-Extended-Mo...
CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-3770K-Quad-Core-Processo...
PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Professional-Series-Modul...
GPU: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-DisplayPort-Graphics... (x2)
RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-Series-1600MHz-PV3...
Storage: http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Technology-2-5-Inch-Warranty-...
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-ST2000DM001-Barracuda-3-5...

All of that seems fine to me, I may add in another WD HDD if he thinks he needs the space. Now is when I get a little mixed up. I'm new to water cooling, and I've read the stickies, but I wanted to get advice on the parts.

Radiators: http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-EX480-Radiator/dp/B006K1DZ3C... (Two of these, one in the top and one in the bottom.)
Then either http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-EX240-Profile-Copper-Radiato... in the bottom with the 480, or http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-EX360-Performance-Radiator-S... in the front if I have the room.

Water Blocks:
CPU: http://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Block-Intel-Socket/... (I've heard this one is good, but it just looks to plastic. Thinking about using http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14214/ex-blc-977/Heat... instead.(
GPU: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16431/ex-blc-1167/HEA... (Two of these, plus their backplates (not shown.)) Connected with http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17559/ex-blc-1369/Hea....
Mobo: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full... (Right not it's between this and MIPS, and MIPS cost almost double with shipping.)
Ram: http://www.amazon.com/EK-Corsair-Dominator-Series-Cooli... with two sets of http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/ram-blocks/ek-ram-domin...

Res/Pump Combo: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16817/ex-res-413/Swif...

We're using http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-PrimoFlex-Advanced-Tub... for the tubing. I'm adding in a split line with http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14596/ex-tub-1035/Bit... on the end to do a drain line. Fans will be the http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10323/fan-674/Scythe_... most likely in just push or pull, not both.

We're using distilled water, with the http://www.amazon.com/Petras-Tech-Nuke-Concentrated-Bio..., with http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15814/ex-tub-1255/Mon... instead of a kill coil. And even though I've advised against anything other than distilled, he wants color he can see in his rad. So I did some looking and it seems a drop of http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Intensifier-Transparen... should do just fine.

Now I need fitting advice. I've currently got XSPC compression fittings, Alphacool and Phobya extenders and rotary pieces, and a swiftech 4-way block that will have the silver bullet on one end, the drain line on the other, and the two ends with line tubing.

Questions:
How does the base computer look?
Are the EX series radiators good, or could I do better?
Is the Heatkiller CPU block a better choice than the Raystorm?
Since mobo and ram and pretty much just aesthetic, are those blocks okay?
Could I get by running all of this one just one 35x pump, or will 2 be necessary?
Does the coolant look good (outside of the dye, which I know people recommend against anyway)?
Will mixing all these different fittings work fine, or should I try to find one name that does it all?
Does anybody see anything I should look over again?

Edit: I forgot to mention I'm looking to use a http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-50W-Aluminum-Throttle-Co... to control the AP15s in a zone using Phobya 3Pin to 4x 3Pin and Phobya 3Pin Y-Splitters. One channel per radiator, with the fourth channel either as any case fans, or the fourth radiator in the unlikely event I use a 240 AND a 360 rather than just one or the other.

More about : question

a c 125 K Overclocking
February 18, 2013 2:06:31 PM

Hi,

That motherboard is excessive unless your going for some really heavy overclocks, seems like silly money for a Z77 board.

The PSU is also overkill, but depends on how nuts you plan on going with the overclocks.

No point in watercooling the RAM and mobo, yes they look nice but they cost quite abit and I think the tubing will look messy.

The Raystorm is actually a really good block, it's not very restrictive and performs well, though I couldn't find a direct comparison between the raystorm and the heatkiller I would personally go for the raystorm.

If you ditched the mobo and RAM blocks you could easily get away with a Laing DDC 355, Mobo blocks tend to be quite restrictive so if you want to include it then consider a D5 vario (365).

I would personally just go for distilled water and PT Nuke and coloured tubing, but if your friend insists on coloured coolant then check out mayhems range.

Not sure about the mix match of fittings as they're not always compatible with eachother, have a search around on google and if you can't find an answer than consider buying all the fittings from the same brand.

EDIT: make sure you check that the GPU waterblocks are compatible with the 4GB versions of the GTX670's!
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February 18, 2013 2:25:33 PM

Rustyy117 said:
Hi,

That motherboard is excessive unless your going for some really heavy overclocks, seems like silly money for a Z77 board.

The PSU is also overkill, but depends on how nuts you plan on going with the overclocks.

No point in watercooling the RAM and mobo, yes they look nice but they cost quite abit and I think the tubing will look messy.

The Raystorm is actually a really good block, it's not very restrictive and performs well, though I couldn't find a direct comparison between the raystorm and the heatkiller I would personally go for the raystorm.

If you ditched the mobo and RAM blocks you could easily get away with a Laing DDC 355, Mobo blocks tend to be quite restrictive so if you want to include it then consider a D5 vario (365).

I would personally just go for distilled water and PT Nuke and coloured tubing, but if your friend insists on coloured coolant then check out mayhems range.

Not sure about the mix match of fittings as they're not always compatible with eachother, have a search around on google and if you can't find an answer than consider buying all the fittings from the same brand.

EDIT: make sure you check that the GPU waterblocks are compatible with the 4GB versions of the GTX670's!


Thanks for the input.
He does plan to OC his CPU to as high as he can and still be stable, and he really wanted to stick to the RoG brand boards. I'd go with a lower board, but hey, it's his money to spend how he wants.

The PSU we got for cheaper than normal, only about $150, so I figured he could use it for future upgrades it he wants. It's going into the 900D, so there is plenty of future upgrade room.

I know he wants to do the mobo and ram. But I might convince him to drop the ram because I really don't see a need for either of the two, but I'm fairly certain he wants the mobo. If I were to get him to drop both of those, would the single 480 rad be enough to move the heat out, or would I still need both 480s? Also, are the XSPC EX series rads a good choice?

I'll look into Mayhems some more, but from what I've read before it seemed it was only designed for short term use, mainly for show casing and photography, not actually long-term cooling. Does anybody here have a good bit of experience with that?

And the 670 FTW+ still uses the 680 reference design, but I'll be sure to double check the board when it arrives just to make sure. I'll also be sure to look into the raystorm and heatkiller comparison a bit more, and I'm going to see if I can find decent fittings all from the same company. It seems like everything I look at either has fittings but no extensions, or extensions and no proper fittings. then there is monsoon, who has both, but their parts are a bit more expensive.

Again, thanks for the input.
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a c 125 K Overclocking
February 18, 2013 2:36:55 PM

Thanks for the input.
Quote:
He does plan to OC his CPU to as high as he can and still be stable, and he really wanted to stick to the RoG brand boards. I'd go with a lower board, but hey, it's his money to spend how he wants.


Ah ok fair enough I guess, what about the Formula instead of the Extreme, the Formula is cheaper (where I live anyway) and will still allow heavy overclocks, but like you said it's his money at the end of the day.

Quote:
The PSU we got for cheaper than normal, only about $150, so I figured he could use it for future upgrades it he wants. It's going into the 900D, so there is plenty of future upgrade room.


Fair enough, good price too. :) 

Quote:
I know he wants to do the mobo and ram. But I might convince him to drop the ram because I really don't see a need for either of the two, but I'm fairly certain he wants the mobo. If I were to get him to drop both of those, would the single 480 rad be enough to move the heat out, or would I still need both 480s? Also, are the XSPC EX series rads a good choice?


The EX 480 is a slim radiator designed for low RPM fans, so for a quiet system it seems, I would want something thicker like the Phobya G-Changer V2 or EK coolstream, though I haven't checked out what thickness radiators you can instill in the 900D so check that out first.
If he's going for heavy overclocks then I'd want more than a 480, consider the 480 with a 240 atleast.

Quote:
I'll look into Mayhems some more, but from what I've read before it seemed it was only designed for short term use, mainly for show casing and photography, not actually long-term cooling. Does anybody here have a good bit of experience with that?


I've been using Mayhems for years (Oil black), I believe the Aurora is mean't for short term use

Quote:
And the 670 FTW+ still uses the 680 reference design, but I'll be sure to double check the board when it arrives just to make sure. I'll also be sure to look into the raystorm and heatkiller comparison a bit more, and I'm going to see if I can find decent fittings all from the same company. It seems like everything I look at either has fittings but no extensions, or extensions and no proper fittings. then there is monsoon, who has both, but their parts are a bit more expensive.


Ah right cool then those blocks should be fine. Have you looked at EK's range of fittings, they do compressions and angles.
Again, thanks for the input.[/quotemsg]
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February 18, 2013 3:05:46 PM

The CES reveal of the case actually has the EK Coolstream XT in the top in full push/pull, so I may be going with those. I'll have to get measurements for the bottom though, cause I don't think there is room for that thick of a rad in the bottom on it's side with the side mounted PSU. I know there is room in the top though, so I'll switch out at least that top rad with an EK one.

I just looked up Mayhem and realized they made more than just the Aurora (duh, :facepalm:) . I see they make a very nice green UV dye, so I'll switch those two out as well. I'll let him run it for a while and then check it out for any gunk. If it ends up gunking, well I told him just distilled. Is the silver bullet a good choice over the silver kill coil in the res?

Nice call on EK fittings, I see 45 and 90 degree, as well as extenders. And their stuff varies between a few cent higher to a few cent lower than other parts I had picked, so it ends up about even and I'll be going with those as well. Just took me a minute to figure out 1/2 x 3/4 was 13mm lol...
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a c 125 K Overclocking
February 18, 2013 3:30:04 PM

xIHexIx said:
The CES reveal of the case actually has the EK Coolstream XT in the top in full push/pull, so I may be going with those. I'll have to get measurements for the bottom though, cause I don't think there is room for that thick of a rad in the bottom on it's side with the side mounted PSU. I know there is room in the top though, so I'll switch out at least that top rad with an EK one.

I just looked up Mayhem and realized they made more than just the Aurora (duh, :facepalm:) . I see they make a very nice green UV dye, so I'll switch those two out as well. I'll let him run it for a while and then check it out for any gunk. If it ends up gunking, well I told him just distilled. Is the silver bullet a good choice over the silver kill coil in the res?

Nice call on EK fittings, I see 45 and 90 degree, as well as extenders. And their stuff varies between a few cent higher to a few cent lower than other parts I had picked, so it ends up about even and I'll be going with those as well. Just took me a minute to figure out 1/2 x 3/4 was 13mm lol...


Oh right well then the EK coolstream would work well especially considering the fans you've chosen have excellent static pressure :) 

Yeah actually mayhems have quite a large range, I can't comment on the UV green but I haven't had any blockage/gunk build up in my loop which has been running for almost two years.
I've never used a silver bullet to be honest so can't say how it compares to a silver kill coil.

Yeah EK make good quality fittings for a good price and I like the sleek look.
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February 18, 2013 5:48:24 PM

Rustyy117 said:
Oh right well then the EK coolstream would work well especially considering the fans you've chosen have excellent static pressure :) 

Yeah actually mayhems have quite a large range, I can't comment on the UV green but I haven't had any blockage/gunk build up in my loop which has been running for almost two years.
I've never used a silver bullet to be honest so can't say how it compares to a silver kill coil.

Yeah EK make good quality fittings for a good price and I like the sleek look.


It's .999 silver in either case, so I assume it would work the same. And thanks for the info on the Mayhem Dye. I figure the worst that can happen is it runs for a month or two and builds up and I have to strip it down and clean it for him.

Thanks for all the help today fatal!
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a c 125 K Overclocking
February 18, 2013 5:50:26 PM

xIHexIx said:
It's .999 silver in either case, so I assume it would work the same. And thanks for the info on the Mayhem Dye. I figure the worst that can happen is it runs for a month or two and builds up and I have to strip it down and clean it for him.

Thanks for all the help today fatal!


No problem :) 

Have fun building it (I know I would) :kaola: 
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February 18, 2013 8:26:53 PM

One more quick question.

Cold Cathods or some form of LED for the UV lighting? Just a personal preference?
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a c 125 K Overclocking
February 19, 2013 8:38:48 AM

xIHexIx said:
One more quick question.

Cold Cathods or some form of LED for the UV lighting? Just a personal preference?


I find cathodes more differcult to conceal easily due to the converter, also you can get flexible LED strips which give more options on how and where you can mount them.
So I would personally opt for LEDs.
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February 19, 2013 7:16:35 PM

Rustyy117 said:
I find cathodes more differcult to conceal easily due to the converter, also you can get flexible LED strips which give more options on how and where you can mount them.
So I would personally opt for LEDs.


I chcked out BitFenix flexible ones, but couldn't find them in UV. I did find some strips from Phobya though, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_... and a two different light bars, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6432/ele-306/FrozenCP... and http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2983/lit-128/Logisys_...

I'll probably go with the Phobya Flexible piece, which also comes in 72 count and 144 count.
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a c 125 K Overclocking
February 19, 2013 7:23:01 PM

xIHexIx said:
I chcked out BitFenix flexible ones, but couldn't find them in UV. I did find some strips from Phobya though, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_... and a two different light bars, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6432/ele-306/FrozenCP... and http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2983/lit-128/Logisys_...

I'll probably go with the Phobya Flexible piece, which also comes in 72 count and 144 count.


They both actually look pretty good I think, but like I said the flexible option should be easier to install and give you more options on where and how to mount it.
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