$1,000ish Gaming Machine

Please forgive me if anything is done wrong. This is my first post here.

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: It has all been mostly purchased

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming and more Gaming, surfing the web, youtube, some music storage for itunes, average PC stuff

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: Already got most of it from Microcenter


OVERCLOCKING: Maybe / Maybe SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Probably not

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1680x1050, Using a 22in Samsung

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Performance, Price, and Longevity are key to me

So, I am in the market for a new gaming machine. I have an old P4 and it just won't cut it. I have put this off for a while but I feel now is the time. I did a little bit of research then went to MC and bought everything. After I bought it all I was doing some more research and found this great site. I am waiting to put anything together until after Monday, because MC is going to test and install the CPU, mobo, RAM, extra CPU Cooler, and thermal paste. Here is a list of what I have bought so far.

Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz

Kinda figured this was a good bang for the buck. Use the cheaper 1156 Socket, save $$ on the mobo, and still have the Hyper- Threading if some games start to use it more in the future.

ASUS P7P55-M LGA 1156 Intel P55 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard

I know the reviews on newegg say the board wouldn't POST I'm not worried as MC will be testing it before I take it home. It is a Micro but I won't have too many more things going on the board besides a sound card someday. I got this board for $90 so if I decide to SLI in the future I won't feel to bad about just getting a new board.

CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

I have read that the mobo says it will not support CORSAIR but people have said that it works. Looks like good cheap RAM.

BFG Tech BFGEGTX260MC896OCDE GeForce GTX 260 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support

Got this for $160. I always think SLI is neat but have never done it. If the price of this card drops low I might pick another one up, but I will have to get a new mobo.

Western Digital Caviar Black WD7501AALS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive -Bare Drive

More room than I will ever probably need but it is good to have I guess. The speed looks good.

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm

If I decide to do any OC at all it will be average. This one seems good for me.


Not much to this guy.

Antec TWO HUNDRED S Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Don't need anything flashy. I'm hoping to tuck it away and hide it :P. Picked the "Gaming" case over the other cheap Antec because this one does regular mobos and Micro. Picked up some extra fans for this guy also.

CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS

I'm still not very sure about this one. I got it for $100 at MC, which isn't too bad. I know I can get an 860 or 750 from the Egg for just a little more but I'm not sure if I want to wait any longer because I already have everything else. The 650 will probably be okay for now but if I want to upgrade to a new video card in the future I'd like to not have to buy a whole new PSU to get one.

I can get the 850 and 750 at MC for $150. The 850 is $130, after rebate, from the Egg. The 750 is $100 after rebate and free shipping, from the Egg but again I'm not sure how long I would have to wait for it. So if I decided to buy one from MC I would keep the one I have and wing it or get the 850 as the difference is less between the Egg and MC.

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM

My friend said to get the OEM as it is cheaper and is the same. Didn't see much advantages for the $$$ to get the bigger ones.

I would really appreciate any input for my build. This seems like a great site and I am very happy I have found it. I look forward to discussing this thread and many other topics with you all. Thank you very much.

21 answers Last reply
More about 000ish gaming machine
  1. So I'm assuming that since you asking for input, you're willing to make a few changes? First of all, the HD 5770 is often recommended over the GTX 260, for various reasons: it performs and costs about the same, but it also supports DX11, Eyefinity, and HD audio bitstreaming, none of which the 260 does. And while the 260 offers Physx and CUDA support, these features are not particularly enticing for most gamers. In addition, the 5770 runs cooler and more efficiently, sipping power in comparison to the 260.
    Secondly, WD is falling behind in the HDD industry. Samsung's Spinpoint F3 series and Seagate's 7200.12 series both use a 500GB/platter design; the higher areal density (in comparison to most WD drives, like the WD Black 750GB) means they run faster and more efficiently.
    I'm a bit skeptical of your case choice, because the CM Hyper 212+ barely fits in my 8"-wide case, and I know the A200 is a bit narrower than that.
    Lastly, a 650W will probably struggle with two 260s in SLI, so you might want to consider getting the 750W from Newegg. On the other hand, two 5770s in CF wouldn't probably be okay with a 650W PSU. Sorry if I sound like I'm advertising. :lol:
    The rest looks just fine. Good luck with the build.
  2. First off try a Cas7 ram. This is what I got but if you prefer corsair keep searching.

    I'm more a fan of ATI so I would recommend you the 5770 series but really I would like to see you get a 5850 or higher. The 5770 will handle your 1680x1050 resolution just fine but what if you were to upgrade the monitor down the line?

    Don't get the WD, if this will be your primary drive then get a spinpoint or 7200.12
    And certainly both of them come in smaller sizes.

    And agreed how about a corsair 750w instead?

    OEM windows is just fine it's a disc and a serial number, what do you need the fancy packaging for anyway?
  3. I have always stuck with Nvidia, so I didn't even consider ATI. Some games I used to play had problems with ATI so I never looked at them. I don't know if ATI still has problems with some games but I play MANY different kinds of games and I'll take the hit not having ATI if that means more games will work,

    I will have MC check to make sure the H212 fits the case before I take it home. The other Antecs I was looking didn't do Micro boards, which mine is. :(

    I will look at the Samsung and Seagate drives for sure.

    I doubt I will do SLI. Just depends on how cheap those 260s will get. I would only SLI if I could get a 2nd card for really cheap and I see them selling off the last of stock now to get ready for the next gen.

    Might get the 750w Corsair PSU from the Egg. Still might get the 850w, possibly from MC.

    Will I notice a difference with the RAM? The names look the same. Is it the timings that make the difference?

    Thanks for the input so far.
  4. This PC is much much better in overall gaming.

    AMD + Ati is the best bang for the buck period under $1.2k

    I would never, ever, ever, EVER buy a gtx 260 at this point in the game. Nvidia is behind the race in this category at the moment.

    You won't notice any difference in the 860 between the 955. They perform in games almost the same.

  5. I am going to look at ATI for sure. I think switching everything I have to an AMD system might be a little much so I doubt I will do that.

    In the HD charts on this site the WD Caviar Black does ok in the PCMark Gaming one. Am I missing something?
  6. If you go for intel your PC won't be able to play games nearly as well.

    You won't have any problems at all with AMD, They are just as solid as intel. Same with ATI.

    I wouldn't think twice about it, go amd :P
  7. 5770, always look to maximize your graphics for gaming (within reason based on your monitor resolution)
  8. This chart doesn't show much difference in the HD I got and the other HDs you mentioned. Am I missing something? This is a gaming chart.

  9. Picked up the Asus 5770. I noticed some people havng driver problems with this card. That is one of reasons I have always steered away from Ati but this seems to be an asus and ati problem. I picked up the asus cause people say the can OC well with built in tools but now I'm not sure. Might look at the MSI hawk 5770.

  10. Make sure you get the latest drivers. This sounds obvious but it's amazing how many people don't do this. I *believe* it's Catalyst 10.3. Fire it up and see what happens. I doubt you'll have a problem, but every situation is different.
  11. I can get a 5850 for $300 shipped. Think is worth the upgrade? I game on a 22in samsung so I will always use the 16 x 10 res.
  12. Personally, yes yes I do. A 5850 would set you up nicely at that res. But it's your money.
  13. One concern about getting an OEM copy of Windows 7 is that it's tied to the motherboard you install it on. If you end up getting a new motherboard, you're legally obligated to buy a new copy of Windows 7.

    It used to be that 2 OEM copies were cheaper than the full version, but right now, newegg has Home Premium OEM for $100 and the full version for $180. If you think there's a high likelihood that you will get a new motherboard within the next few years, it might save you money in the long run to buy a retail version. Normally I don't recommend going with the retail copy, but it seems like it might work out better for you.

    Whatever you decide, make sure to get 64-bit.
  14. Why is this the first I have heard about this?

    So if I change the mobo in a year or two then I have to buy windows again?

    What if my mobo dies?

    Even the guys at MC said I could install windows as much as I want.
  15. If your motherboard dies, you can call Microsoft and have them provide a new key. In my experience, they're good about providing keys for boards that have been lost to physical damage.

    If you google "windows oem vs retail" you'll see a lot of answers. Here's one: http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7install/thread/fae7b2ab-c530-45e6-aeb3-cc55cf7b9231

    With a retail copy you can install it on as many different (consecutive) machines as you want.

    This simply isn't brought up frequently because the general assumption is that people are buying a motherboard to last through a couple of processors, and technology will have advanced enough that it's time to do a full new build before they consider replacing the motherboard.
  16. So the entire OS is tied $90 mobo?

  17. Tom's Best Gaming CPU for the Money March 2010 edition still has the i7s under the "Past the Point of Reason" category well for a reason lol Utter complete waste of $$ for non encoding/rendering rig to go i7 these days @@
  18. I would have only saved $50 if I had gotten the i3. Since that's all I would have saved over the build I'll take that any day. I'd rather pay a tad more now to keep from having to rebuild in a year. Got the i7 860 for $199.00.
  19. I'm going to get the ASUS 5850 for $290 shipped.

    Or I could get the ASUS 5770 for $160 shipped.

    I only game at 1680 x 1050. Is the 5850 a waste?
  20. Odium said:
    I'm going to get the ASUS 5850 for $290 shipped.

    Or I could get the ASUS 5770 for $160 shipped.

    I only game at 1680 x 1050. Is the 5850 a waste?

    Depends. 5850 is currently overkill for that resolution, but not by a huge amount. The 5870 would be ridiculous.

    If you buy the 5850, and assuming you don't replace the monitor any time soon, the 5850 will keep you current for a little longer than the 5770, maybe 6 months to a year. In other words, you're more likely to have to CrossFire the 5770 sooner or replace it altogether.

    If you upgrade to a larger monitor, the 5770 would probably be a little underpowered right now, and its performance would drop off even more as new games are released.

    In short, the 5850 has more longevity, but whether or not it's worth the price premium most likely depends on how close you are to your budget ceiling. If you have room, I say go for it.
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