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ASUS MOBO UPGRADE. Help with windows

Hello,

I just changed my mobo in my HP Pavillion pc. It's an ASUS M4A785-M. Also added Athlon X4 640 Propus. I was told that would need to reinstall windows after changing mobo's. When use my 2 hp recovery disks it says loading windows files, but just sits at far right of the screen. I get no errors or nothing. If no discs in dvd drive, it gives me Windows error. "I have changed hardware" and gives me "Repair" option. But when choosing that screen goes black and nothing happens. Logging onto ASUS website, a few of the forum replies talk about with HP, that you may need to do a fresh full install of windows. I've upgraded all components in the case. New mobo, cpu, psu, ram. Only HDD Western Digital drive is still from when purchased.

This was my first attempt at a mobo change and any help before take to pc repair dealer and pay out the ........

Steve
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  1. I am not real sure but the hp disks are made for the hp system with the differnt mb it wont work i think that you will need a full windows disk anyone please tell me if i am right thanks
  2. thx for the info. So anyone out there, an upgrade windows 7 won't work either then??? I left out, this is windows vista basic 32 bit on the hard drive. I can access my bios only. It shows the quad x4 640, 2gb of kingston hyper x. But won't load windows as described above.
  3. In regards to your first issue...

    The reason why Windows appears to stop loading is because it is searching for the previous build. I am unclear about which board is the ASUS; is it the old or the new; or both? Either way, a fresh install of a non-OEM copy of Windows will certainly do the trick.

    Your second issue...

    Upgrading to 7 from Vista Home Basic is possible; however, you'll need SP2 before upgrading. Hypothetically speaking, if you were able to upgrade and you're using different hardware, you could potentially cause BSOD problems. In order for hardware to work together, the drivers have to be installed. If the mobo you changed to is different than the mobo that came with the prebuilt system, then the drivers that are used for your mobo will conflict with tne new. This causes instability issues.

    In short, install a non-OEM version of Windows 7, or at very least Win Vista Ultimate w/ SP2.
  4. Thanks for the reply. They were both ASUS MOBO. Well according to HP website old board was called ASUS NYSSA. A forum member on ASUS said Newegg has a system builders windows 7, but it says OEM on the website. So no good huh.

    second question: I had Service Pack two on current hdd, that's still in pc case. But again won't boot up.."old windows" vista basic. Again new to this, what is BSOD PROBLEM in noob terms.
  5. my apologies...

    BSOD is an acronym for Blue Screen of Death, what we refer Windows Stop Errors as. Basically, when you have a software/hardware conflict that is large enough to cause memory read/write errors, Windows will stop everything and display a message related to what it thinks caused the problem.

    Because Microsoft is not affiliated or in control of every piece of hardware or software, the Stop Errors, or BSOD won't always be the most accurate reasoning for the Operating System failure. However, since just about everything in the computer uses RAM, it is safe to assume that ~95% of the BSOD are RAM related.

    In your particular scenario, though, RAM is being affected indirectly. The software (drivers) that were installed on the HP prior to the system leaving the factory is telling the RAM what to access. The conflict here is that the RAM is accepting the instruction, but can't find what the drivers are pointing to.

    In essence, it's like having a map for the wrong city. The instructions are legit, but they don't apply. To have a fresh install of Windows, you have two options:

    1. Create a large enough partion to install the OS and to for everything else you need; or
    2. Format the Hard Disk Drive and reinstall Windows.

    Either way, a fresh copy of Windows will only have the drivers that Windows needs. There are some generic drivers installed with Windows, but they generally don't cause conflict when hardware specific drivers are installed.

    The reason for purchasing a non-OEM is to get the support from Microsoft. There are quite a few free services Microsoft offers, but in order to get them, you must validate your OS.
  6. Local computer repair shops are telling me, I must install a "full version" of windows. Due to the new mobo upgrade/change. $150 for 32 bit or 64 bit.

    So question to you. Is this correct upgrade won't work for me?? Sorry I know you addressed above, just want to clarify. Before breaking into daughters college fund.
  7. T_T said:


    Either way, a fresh copy of Windows will only have the drivers that Windows needs. There are some generic drivers installed with Windows, but they generally don't cause conflict when hardware specific drivers are installed.

    The reason for purchasing a non-OEM is to get the support from Microsoft. There are quite a few free services Microsoft offers, but in order to get them, you must validate your OS.


    Couldn't he still get away with just buying a legal "upgrade" version of 7 and install it over the old mess?
  8. stevie44 would have to install a older os first to upgrade to win7
  9. wayneepalmer said:
    Couldn't he still get away with just buying a legal "upgrade" version of 7 and install it over the old mess?


    It all depends on what SP the OP currently has installed on the HDD. If it's not SP2, then the upgrade to 7 isn't possible.
  10. fleakiller said:
    stevie44 would have to install a older os first to upgrade to win7


    Older than Vista? First, there is no upgrade path to 7 from XP; none whatsoever. If the OP were to install XP, he would have to format the HDD, just like he would have to do to install 7. His HP came with Vista Home Basic x86, which was probably before SP1 was released.
  11. stevie44 said:
    Local computer repair shops are telling me, I must install a "full version" of windows. Due to the new mobo upgrade/change. $150 for 32 bit or 64 bit.

    So question to you. Is this correct upgrade won't work for me?? Sorry I know you addressed above, just want to clarify. Before breaking into daughters college fund.


    "Full version" is indeed ambiguous, but I know what the tech is trying to tell you, which is the same as what I was trying to tell you.

    Thanks to wayneepalmer, I realized that you didn't specifically mention which Service Pack (SP) you have. If you have SP2, you can upgrade to 7 and save yourself ~$50 (upgrade version is ~$99); however, if you're uncertain of which, then just cough the "full version" the repair shop tech is telling you about.
  12. well it has service pack 2 on hdd. But my auto update installed it after bought pc. It didn't come preinstalled. But its on the hdd.
  13. If you're sure you have SP2, then you can do an upgrade to Windows 7; however, you may still run into a conflict with the old motherboard drivers trying to communicate with the new motherboard. This is why I recommended a completely new install, in the first place.
  14. Ya, know have SP2 on the hdd. New microsoft progams wouldn't install without having SP2.

    So these driver conflicts may not even let me get booted into windows setup, to be able to remove or update these drivers. So the complete install route would wipe out the driver conflict.
  15. So theres no geek tricks, programs that could burn/iso onto a dvd. To delete this driver conflict or reset the hdd, etc. Grasping at straws, but never hurts to ask..worse you get is no the old would say.

    Would you do the full install win 7 yourself or could there be more issues and let an expert do it. My goal was to learn how to do myself, but wondering if getting to the over my head level.
  16. There are several programs that can create disc images of the current state of your HDD. In fact, that's what HP did before shipping out the computer. The recovery partition on your HDD is the Factory Image, or the way the computer was prior to leaving HP. As far as removing driver conflicts, there may be ways, but there's probably a mortgage payment-cost involved in such recovery.

    Installing Windows is a lot easier now. Create a backup of your document, music, photos, etc. from your HDD before proceeding. Then follow these steps:

    1. Turn on computer and then insert the Windows 7 installation DVD.
    2. Once the installer is loaded, you will be presented with two options: Check compatability; or Install now. I'm sure you can guess which one you want.
    3. Click on "Install now".
    4. The installer will proceed to scan your HDD. You will be given two options again:
    Upgrage or Advanced. Select Advanced.
    5. The installer will find your HDD and show you the current partitions (sections) on your HDD.
    6. Choose the partition that has your OS. Leaving your recovery partition alone is good, just in case something goes wrong with the Win 7 install.
    7. When prompted, format the partition.
    8. Windows installer will/should take it from there.

    Your computer will restart once or twice. After that, your installation should be complete.
  17. So just wondering, what would/could/may happen if....Plugged in the old motherboard, deleted all the drivers with device manager and then tried again with the new asus mobo m4a785-m.
  18. You would be in the same boat you are now because of the licensing issue. Two things happen that 'hinder' your ability to reuse the hard drive in a new system, when you install Windows. Any time you replace the motherboard, Windows sees that as a new system. Consider these scenarios:

    1. You buy the upgrade version, and perform the upgrade successfully. No trouble with driver conflicts. End of story.

    2. You buy the upgrade... but you do have old mobo driver conflicts. Now you'll have to fork over the dough to buy the complete version. Then format the drive and install Windows again.

    3. You buy the complete version. You install as directed above. You are funtional again.
  19. That goes under best answer. Just want my ducks in a row. I don't want to get down there on payday, and be looking for a cheaper option and ending up paying $300. He said for $100 will install windows but don't get the software/disk. But for $50 you get the whole nine yards. Just trying to understand why these disks am booting up don't work. I keep getting weird errors, besides boot errors. Guess they're all related to hdd driver errors. Yesterday was

    File: \Windows\system32\ntkrnlpa.exe
  20. ntkrnlpa.exe is a driver related problem that occurs when the computer's hardware has difficulty recovering from sleep mode. There are several levels of sleep mode:

    1. Sleep
    2. Stand by
    3. Hibernation

    There are a couple of ways to fix that error, but you need to be able to load Windows first. Have you tried using Safe Mode? Turn on the computer, then immediately and repeatedly tap the F8 key. If you hear beeps, then stop.

    Windows Advanced Boot Options (or something like that) should come up. Use the arrow keys to select Safe Mode.
  21. Ya gives me my dvd drive as option 1 and that bloody WD HDD as option 2. Theres no other choices, just those two.
  22. im going down to buy the full version of windows 7 today. I was given link to test the WD hdd, thru their website. It was a boot disk that can test hdd and you can also do this Zero Fill option. Make the hdd like day it was installed, guess also called wiping the drive. Test was zero errors. But didn't do the zero fill option. Bad idea, or would it matter at this point??
  23. This is with Legal copy of windows 7 home premium, just bought today. I get this same error. Any ideas??


    File: \Windows\system32\ntkrnlpa.exe. Kernal is bad or missing!!!
  24. Did you choose the option to reformat the hard drive before installing 7?
  25. dont even get to that point. It says "windows loading files" and windows error screen pops up with that message....

    File: \Windows\system32\ntkrnlpa.exe. Kernal is corrupt or missing!!!

    Another geek gave me link to Western Digital and download for a boot disk for hdd. It showed no errors, and gave me another option to "zero fill" hdd...make like new...which i did.
  26. Ok. Take the hdd out of the computer it is currently in. Then connect it as a slave drive in a different computer. On the keyboard, press the Windows key + E. If the to be formatted hdd is connected properly, you should see a second hard drive next to your C:\ drive.

    If you see it, right click and select format. Follow the on screen instructions. When prompted to, choose the "quick" format option, unless you want to wait 2+ hours.
  27. I have this laptop for emailing and troublshooting my desktop/pc, now a paper weight:). But don't have a second pc to do that. Guess will take down to pc shop and hope he can resolve like your suggesting above.

    So doing that zero fill thing, wouldn't do the trick...I'm guessing.
  28. It is supposed to, but I'm not able to verify if you've done it correctly or not. Honestly though, I don't use the hard drive utility software. That is why I suggested the old school method of connecting the hdd to another computer.
  29. so for understanding reasons on my end of course. Would this resolve the error issue. Doing either method, of formatting the hdd....knock on wood. Kind of like a bare bones hdd you would get online or what's your thinking for doing this.
  30. All right, let's sum it all up...

    Your intial concern was to seek clarification on what was told to by a local tech. When swapping out current mobo to a different model/revision, generally you do need to and should reinstall your OS.

    The reasons for reinstalling your OS is:

    1. To ensure that there are no conflicting registry entries and/or hardware drivers.
    2. Because when you change your mobo, Windows sees this as a new computer, and may not function properly.

    I recommended the full, complete, non-OEM, non-upgrade, etc... because:

    1. There was some ambiguity (initially) about what version of Windows you were using.
    2. Upgrading wouldn't give you the freedom of a fresh install.
    3. Money doesn't grow on trees for you - wasting money on the upgrade only to find out that it didn't work for you would cause you to have shell out the dough for the complete version on top of the cost for the upgrade. In short, it was a cheaper/safer suggestion.

    When you have a blank/formated hdd, you are starting fresh - no conflicts. The ntkrnlpa.exe error is preventing you from overwriting or formatting your hdd. This, along with any other Windows error, can and will be resolved with a clean, fresh install.
  31. tell me again, sorry....on the whole OEM stands for. Someone said you don't get support from microsoft or something along those lines. But i told the pc repair guy must be full version, like you have been telling me.
  32. That is correct. There are several different versions of Windows. The OEM version is a one-time use that gets "locked" to your motherboard. Meaning that if you experience trouble with the mobo, you can replace the mobo for an exact replacement, but not upgrade. Also you will not get the tech support from Microsoft.

    With Retail versions, you can install and reinstall w/o the hassles of having to call Microsoft to tell them the story of why you needed to reinstall. As attractive as this sounds, you are still limited to one computer per retail license key.

    If you own or manage a computer building/repairing/consulting/etc. firm, then you can apply for VLK (Volume License Key), which provides you with a Product Key that can be used to install on multiple systems w/o the threat of piracy.
  33. so somewhere theres a conflict with the hdd. I pulled the box again. This is not an upgrade windows 7. I did the zero fill, thing since don't have second pc. Now it will only boot from a dvd. It wont let me into bios anymore now either. I get the asus screen still, but when hit delete for bios. Just goes to boot option. Before doing that would let me access bios set up. Now it doesnt.
  34. See what happens when you disconnect the HDD and then power on the system. My theory is that the BIOS is trying to access the HDD, but can't find an OS, thus sending you to the boot options. Also because USB keyboards don't power up immediately, you can sometimes miss the small window of time to access your BIOS.
  35. took down to shop and told them to test parts. If can't find in hour am screwed. The money thing. He took a dvd drive, hdd, and gigabyte mobo, with my quad cpu and fired right to windows 7 set up. He says mobo is bad then. He troubled shooted all the parts on my system is what am meaning. So rma the mobo i guess. Price of doing business guess. Would you give asus another chance or who would you recommend. I did the stactic wrist strap, never dropped the mobo or something on it. So not trying to read too much into this issue.
  36. I've built systems with several different manufacturers. I've had an ASUS go bad on me, but for the life of me I can't remember what happened. All I can recall is that I didni't send it in for warranty for some reason. I've also had a Gigabyte board litterally fry and to this day I still don't know what caused that.

    Here's my list, in most preferred to least:

    1. Biostar - built two systems on 790 chipset, neither of them have failed yet
    2. Gigabyte - Although the mobo fried, I built three systems off of one model. Note: there seem to be a lot of Gigabyte mobo failures in the market right now, you may want to consider a different brand.
    3. BFG - I'm not sure if they're still making mobos, but they offer lifetime warranty on their products
    4. ASUS - Still on my list of recommended mobos because I've seen a lot of quality designs come out, such as the Crosshair IV
    5. MSI - I haven't ever built on an MSI, that is why its at the bottom. I know that MSI currently offers very attractive mobos for very attractive prices.

    If/when I upgrade, my mobo choice will likely be between Biostar, ASUS, or MSI.
  37. so with the newegg website, doing rma now. Which mobo would you choose with micro atx, and the ddr2 i have already. thx for your advice and help also during this nightmare...nice to know helps out there for us noobs.
  38. Unfortunately, I cannot browse newegg at my office computer, which is where I am now, so I am unable to provide you links. However, if you can find a TA790GX(E) on "the egg" (newegg), I have only positive remarks for this mobo. Last I checked, a month or so ago, these boards were in stock and in mATX for less than $100.

    I have built two systems w/o problems using the standard ATX version of this motherboard.

    The TA790GX(E) will support:
    1. any AM2/AM2+/AM3 CPU
    2. up to DDR2 1066
  39. so if a mobo website says under specs. That ram on board is 1.8 volts and i've got kingston at 2 volts. Do i need to return/exchange that too, or is that a minimum voltalge and above.
  40. Without seeing what the website states specifically, I can't be sure of what you're interpreting; however, the default DRAM voltage for DDR2 is 1.8V. The RAM I use in my system at home (the build I referred to previously) is using DDR2 800 2x2GB 5-5-4-18 @ 2.1V. I have also overclocked my CPU from stock 3.0 to 3.825GHz and my system is very stable. My point here is that what you read does not mean that the mobo cannot use RAM that requires more than 1.8V to operate properly.
  41. it just showed 667 mhz thru the 1200 over clock and at the end had 1.8 volts. Just wanted to know if had to match that on my ram or can still use this kingston hyper x rated at 2.0 volts.

    On another issue, when I rma this asus board. I have the box came in and cables, manual, i/o panel etc. But don't have every plastic baggie the cables came in for example. How picky is newegg on their rma's.
  42. Not usually very picky; however, if one of the plastic bags you speak of is actually an ESD preventative bag, they might have a bone to pick with you. If you're talking about the plastic bags that cables come in, then that won't be an issue.

    On a side note, the RMA process usually asks for the component in question, and nothing else. So unless the tech at Newegg specifcally asked for the cables and stuff, I'd just send the board.
  43. ya got the static bag, some techie told me to use it to put mobo together, like cpu, ram....etc.

    what about the ram being 2.0 voltage follow up question. Keep ram, should be fine??
  44. The voltage isn't going to be a problem; however, if you'd like to know if your RAM is still good, I suggest using MemTest86+. You can download it here . Download the .zip file that contains the .iso file. Extract/decompress the .iso file and burn it as a bootable disc image. Do not just drag and drop the file or burn a data disc, as these are not the same methods.

    If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable burning the disc, follow the instructions on how to use a USB device.
  45. I will try that one. That was the one component he didn't test come to think of. He used his own repair shop ram.
  46. Any reason??? Just wondering here. When did the asus mobo, (that was bad). I plugged all the components in on the table...video card, wireless internet card, better sound card..etc. All in, before booting up and trying to install windows. Of course none of the drivers would be installed.

    Should i just be installing mobo, plugging in power to hdd, dvd and just installing windows, then doing all those components....or does it matter..far as conflicts...windows errors..etc.
  47. Best answer
    If I'm understanding your question/concern correctly, then no, there is no chronological order to the installation process. That is, although your system needs CPU, RAM, PSU, etc, you can install them in any order you'd like; they just all have to be installed/connected (properly) in order for your system to work.

    The only hardware conflicts you'd run into would fall under two categories:

    1. Physical - Cases are made in a variety of sizes/shapes, as are GPU, RAM, etc. The most common oversight is the installation of the GPU. For example, my case is an Antec Super Lanboy (yes, it's old, but still looks good). I am using a PNY GTS 250 GPU. I built a system for my fiance, similar to mine, except I got her a GTX 260. The GTX 260 will not fit in my case, because the space between the expansion slots and the HDD rack is too narrow.

    2. Incompatability - Unlike physical, incompatible components may fit within the parameters given, but may not be "qualified" to work with your other components. An example would be RAM/mobo set up. A mobo may not work well with RAM that isn't on the Quality Vendor List (QVL). The QVL consists of make/models of (in this example) RAM that have been tested and are successful build candidates for the mobo.

    In regards to a conflict with Windows, this is purely software. Windows, or any OS for that matter, will always be compatible with any HDD. That isn't to say that you will always have a successful installation, but the failure is never a compatability issue.
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