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Can I just start over!?!? Too many problems!

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April 10, 2010 9:03:16 PM

I'm seriously depressed over my first try at building a new system! Don't get me wrong, I'm glad I did it, and it looks great, BUT things are not running the way I had planned and hoped they would. A custom paint job that didn't go too well the first try, defective GPU I had to send back, SSD problems that I haven't ...been able to figure out yet, forced to use a different configuration that I didn't want, and still getting blue screen crashes several times a day! I have a reputation for biting off more than I can (seemingly) handle but I am determined to do this and learn from it.

I think at this point I'd like to clear the slate, so to speak, and start over fresh if possible. I still don't have my HD5870 back yet but I have a GT240 to use for now and I can "upgrade" to the other when it comes. For a better picture of all that has transpired during this, my first build adventure, see my other threads.

This is now a plea for help from any sympathetic, experienced builders with the patience and knowledge to guide a newbie through the tasks necessary to bring my dream machine to life. All I can offer is my undying gratitude and promise that I will pass along the lessons learned to those who will come after me. (I hope that was a convincing enough humble plea!)

More about : start problems

April 10, 2010 9:14:53 PM

Post system specs and what the problems are.

I would like you to read 2 things

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274745-31-step-step-g...

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...

We need to make sure you have all the lastest drivers for your system, all updates for your OS, and maybe even update your BIOs < plz try to read about it ( it can help out alot )

If need be take it all apart and start over

Also we need to check for heat problems ( so dload some programes )realtemps CPU-Z HWMonitor Prime95 also memetest V 4.0

Did you set your ram up in the bios ? speed volts timings ?


Anyways we can try to get it worked out


Also it not good to go from a ATI GPU to a Nvdiia unless you use Driver sweep to clean the other drivers out


Ok post spec so we can get going
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April 11, 2010 12:56:00 AM

Niklas_13 said:
Post system specs and what the problems are.

I would like you to read 2 things

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274745-31-step-step-g...

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...

We need to make sure you have all the lastest drivers for your system, all updates for your OS, and maybe even update your BIOs < plz try to read about it ( it can help out alot )

If need be take it all apart and start over

Also we need to check for heat problems ( so dload some programes )realtemps CPU-Z HWMonitor Prime95 also memetest V 4.0

Did you set your ram up in the bios ? speed volts timings ?


Anyways we can try to get it worked out



Also it not good to go from a ATI GPU to a Nvdiia unless you use Driver sweep to clean the other drivers out


Ok post spec so we can get going



Thank you sooooooooo much for the reply. I've just about given up on the human race, or at least having anyone try to help me out.

As for as the GPUs, the ATI card never got off the ground at all. Good news is, the replacement just now! It was delivered after I made my post. I'm not touching though, until I know everything else is in order and all other problems and potential problems are solved.

I read through the links you provided (thanks). I did everything and more that is suggested in these with the exception of "Did you set your ram up in the bios ? speed volts timings ? " I will admit I'm not sure about this but since it did boot ok and is running fairly well (execpt for the crashes) I'm not sure if this is the problem. Again, I'm thinking it might be best to start all over. Is it possible to wipe everything "clean" and start over as if it were the first time, new again?

To start the history of my problems, here is a copy of my original GPU problem (that I hope is now solved by the replacement), with the original specs:


"I finished putting together my first complete build and tried to start up for the first time last night. Everything started running (fans, lights, temp/fan controller) AND a very loud (and annoying) continuous beep. :mmmfff:  It was NOT the usual BIOS code beep. I turned it off, rechecked all connections, memory cards and all other expansion cards and still had the same results. Also, in addition to the very loud beep, it sounded like I had my old house box fan running in there! Some fan was running very loudly! I finally took out the GPU and plugged in an old (and I mean OLD) graphics card I had laying around and, voila, it booted right up! I left it at that (it was 4am, too tired) and have not begun any OS or other installations.

Should I just go ahead with the installations and then try to reinstall the GPU as if it were an upgrade? This GPU is one of the major reasons for this new build. I really want to get this thing up and blazing NOW!!! :hot:  :gun: 

Here's a more complete system list:
MOBO - ASUS P6T
PSU - 660w Kingwin Premium Series
CPU - Intel Core i7 920
CPU Cooler - Dark Knight
RAM - 6GB OCZ DDR3 Gold
HDD - 1TB WD Caviar Black
SSD - 60GB OCZ
GPU - ATI Radeon HD5870 1GB **
HDTV Card - Hauppuage Win TV-HVR 1600
Lian Li 3.5 LCD Thermometer & Fan Controller
Optical Drive - SAMSUNG Super-WriteMaster SH-S223
(will soon be adding a Blu-ray Disc writter)
System is housed in a Thermaltake XaserVI case that I have done some modding to.
Also have external 640GB WD MyBook Storage, LG Super-Multi DVD writter and
my HP w2408 24 inch LCD Monitor.

**This card was defective. :pfff:  Temporarily using NVIDIA GeForce GT 240


Now on to the SSD problems. Here is what my original question was and the problems I ran into after trying to install OS (Note that this was after unanimous agreement that the HD5870 was defective and I installed the GT240. The system was able to post and I was able to check BIOS):

"I've put together my first complete build and am ready to begin installation of the OS (Windows 7 Pro). I have a 60Gb SSD and a 1Tb HDD and I would like the OS to go on the SSD. How do I designate the drives for this?

Also, it was suggested to me, that, since I have some peripherals and needed programs that may have compatibility issues with the new Windows 7, I should consider partitioning so that I can also install Windows XP for these. I have no idea how to do this either."


Then I proceeded to start up and install Windows 7. Here's what came next.:

"Ok, I've run into a road block. I've started the Windows install and I'm at the point at choosing the disk to install to. When I choose the my SSD it says "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. (Show details)".
Details are: "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support booting to this disk. Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the computer's BIOS menu."


I went into the BIOS and checked this and here's what came next:

Ok, I did this and now I'm back to choosing and it says the same thing, so I clicked the "advance" button and I'm guessing this is where it will format and/or partition the drive? It shows a "size" bar with a value of 61057 MB (my SSD is 60GB) with option to change the value and "Apply" or "Cancel". Do I leave this full value or change it?

As you can see, I was a little apprehensive as I stepped into what was new territory for me. I did this, (clicked "Apply") and then,...

DANG IT!!! GOT AN ERROR MESSAGE!!! AAHHHHAHHHAHHAHHAHHHHHAAAAAAAHHH!!!! :cry: 


Ok, I feel a little better now.


Here's the message: "Failed to create a new partition on the selected unused space. [Error: 0x80042556]." Please interpret?


Here is a reply that I got from "Shadow 703793". I did follow his instructions and even posted to the OCZ forum (with only one very short, unhelpful response), and here was my reply:

I already tried everything you suggested above with no luck. There are no jumpers on the SSD.

I have disconnected the SSD and have successfully installed Windows on the HDD for now. I wanted to use the SSD for the OS and to run Photoshop and the HDD for other programs and storage. External drive will be for business storage and I plan to subscribe to an online backup system too.

Is it possible for me to accomplish this, EVER?


Also,...

I did try unplugging the other (HDD) drive but then Windows did not recognize it {SSD) at all; there was no drive listed in the "choose drive" list.

I think I found the problem. I just switched out the SATA cable and the drive is showing up in the BIOS menu now (must have been a faulty cable?). In Windows, under "Computer" it lists "Hard Disk Drives (1)" showing my HDD only. Under the "Device Manager" / My computer/ Disk Drives, it list both the OCZ SSD and the WDC HDD, and it says that "This device is working properly".

I REALLY want to go back to my original configuration plans. How can I do this now?


"Shadow" replied again and he continued to try to help me in a private thread we started for this purpose. Here is a link to the rest. I'm not sure if it will work for you so let me know.



Basically, I did update all the updates I was told to do by my "guidance counselors" and I ran the Prive95 stress test too.
I'm sure this is probably more info than you expected to get but I'm serious about getting this mess straightened out and I will provided you or anyone else with everything necessary to help you help me. Thanks!
:hello: 
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Related resources
April 11, 2010 1:29:35 AM

A flaky PSU can cause all kinds of problems. And Kingwin has a reputation for producing, umm, less than adequate PSU's - "one step above junk" would be more accurate.

Try to borrow a good PSU - something like a Corsair 550VX or larger.
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April 11, 2010 2:17:59 AM

i agree with jsc about the PSU

a need model #s of your parts ( OCZ DDR3 1600 ) wont cut it,

post your bios # also

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April 11, 2010 3:11:57 AM

jsc said:
A flaky PSU can cause all kinds of problems. And Kingwin has a reputation for producing, umm, less than adequate PSU's - "one step above junk" would be more accurate.

Try to borrow a good PSU - something like a Corsair 550VX or larger.



Ok, I've tolerated more than enough bashing on my choice of PSU brand, however, I believe the majority is based on either not knowing much about it to make an informed opinion or loyalties to "brand name" PSUs. I was looking for over all value. I'm all for brand recognition but we all know how there is a definite premium to pay for the "designer" label. I don't have a problem going with less recognized names if there is performance to back it. It did first catch my eye for it's looks and price so I went looking for reviews on it. The one I bought is not really the one I had originally planned on getting (Lazer 850w). The guy at Micro Center, where I bought most of the components, convinced me that I did not need the higher one. I am thinking that I will get it later anyway and use this one in another build for my daughter.
Here are some reviews on the 850. Read them and then tell me if you really think it deserves all the bashing.

http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=906&page=1

http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1786&pageID=8412

http://overclockershq.com/hardware-reviews/kingwin-laze...

http://www.techaddicts.net/reviews/lz850/lz850.html
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April 11, 2010 3:25:45 AM

@OP: PSUs can cause all sorts of problems, may very well be a PSU issue. As for the reviews, non of them did any hot box testing like over at jonnyguru.

Here is the PM thread:

Quote:
Thanks, for your help anyway. Know anyone else that might be of help in this way? I'm pretty new to the "community" so I'm not that familiar with others on the forums.

In the mean time, here is the info you asked me about before.

In the "Disk Management" window, the top section (that has the columns that include the "Status" bar) only lists the HDD in it's partitions ("C:", and "System Reserved"). The next section lists the HDD as "Disk 0" / Basic / 931.51 / Online", the OCZ SDD as "Disk 1 / Basic / 59.63 / Online", and of course my CD-ROM/DVD drive.


Quote:
^ Ok, in Disk Management:

Right Click on the OCZ drive > Click on “New Simple Volume”. Then follow the Wizard. Once this is done, you should see the OCZ SSD in “My Computer”.

Like I said, the best way is to sign up for an account on the OCZ Forums.


Quote:
I do have an account on OCZ, but I've only had one very vague response. I did join a Facebook group of PC builders and found one chap that was willing to go on live chat and he was very helpful. Hopefully I'll find more people like him to lend their expertise, patience and a little time and I will get this system straightened out and running the way I designed it to be.

I appreciate all your help. I hope to share what I've learned (and am still learning) through all this with future "newbies". Maybe I'll be able to post something showing the finished product soon! :wahoo: 


Quote:
Mind linking to the OCZ post?

Anyways, good luck! Hope you get it fixed soon.


Quote:
Here is the link to my post on OCZ forum. I'm not sure if it is viewable without an OCZ account (maybe you have one,?).

http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?...

I've had a couple of "blue screen" crashes since installing Windows, even after updating the BIOS, Chipset and LAN.
I'm still looking for guidance on reconfiguring the system to use the SSD for the OS and HDD for storage and gaming.
Is this still possible to achieve?


Quote:
Quote:
I've had a couple of "blue screen" crashes since installing Windows, even after updating the BIOS, Chipset and LAN.

That is not a good sign. Download Prime 95 x64 (or 32 bit if OS is 32 bit) here: http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/browse.php?c=18

Then go to:
Advanced> click "Round Off Checking"
Then go to Options>Torture Test> Select "Small FFT".

Run this for 6hrs or so. If it crashes, you have some serious issues. Also, download CoreTemp: http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/

and tell me the CPU temps at idle and at full load with Prime95.

Before you run this, disconnect the SSD. Imo, you shouldn't have this much trouble with the SSD. I recommend you RMA it.


Quote:
Reading the description of this utility, it seems geared toward those systems being overclocked. I haven't done this. Should I still run it?

The SSD is connected now but isn't being used for anything. Haven't tried doing anything with it. Is there a way to test it while it is still installed for problems? If I ask for a RMA request now, what do I say is the problem? When I used a different SATA cord, it seemed to make a difference. Should I just test that cord with something else, say the optical drive, to see if it was bad?

I REALLY hate the way it seems that I've been dealing with a high percentage of defective parts! GPU, SSD, SATA cable, even the case came slightly damaged (noncritical plastic "fin" on back of sliding hood was broke). Had a buggered of a time with my paint job too. If I wasn't suck an optimistic person, I'd think I was jinxed or something! :ouch:  But, it just serves to make me more determined to get this done, and done right! :kaola: 


Quote:
Quote:
Reading the description of this utility, it seems geared toward those systems being overclocked. I haven't done this. Should I still run it?

Yes, because you are BSODing, this will eliminate the CPU,etc as source of the problem.

Where did you buy the parts from?


Quote:
Bought everything from Micro Center except for the case that I got from Newegg.


Quote:
I'm running the "Stress Test" now and CoreTemp. I have an appointment to go to so I guess it will be a good time to let it just run. I won't be back for about 5-6 hours so I hope it will be ok to leave it going unattended.

I did not disconnect the SSD. As I said before, I haven't tried accessing it; it's just there. I would still like to know if there is a way to test it for problems.

***Just got back and realized I should have disabled the "Sleep" mode. =[ Oh well, it did run about 1 1/2 hours (it's running again now) and temps seem to be running in the low to mid 60's. Does that seem ok? I am planning to add about 3 more fans (2 intake and 1 exhaust) around the time I get my replacement GPU.

Do you want me to send you the entire CoreTemp log and if so, how should I send it (it's loooooooong, lol)?


Quote:
Your temps seem fine. Looks like your BSODs were caused by drivers.


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April 11, 2010 3:30:43 AM

Imo, return everything (except case,CPU,HDD,Tuner, DVD RW) and get everything else from Newegg and start over. That would be the easiest thing to do.

HOWEVER, do try a new PSU first.
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April 11, 2010 3:46:43 AM



need model #s of your parts ( OCZ DDR3 1600 ) wont cut it,

post your bios # also[/quotemsg said:


Here's a link to the SSD on Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Is this enough info? If not let me know.

OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
Version 6.1.7600 Build 7600
Other OS Description Not Available
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Name MINE
System Manufacturer System manufacturer
System Model System Product Name
System Type x64-based PC
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 920 @ 2.67GHz, 2668 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. 1303, 3/8/2010
SMBIOS Version 2.5
Windows Directory C:\Windows
System Directory C:\Windows\system32
Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1
Locale United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7600.16385"
User Name Mine\Me
Time Zone Central Daylight Time
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 6.00 GB
Total Physical Memory 5.99 GB
Available Physical Memory 4.90 GB
Total Virtual Memory 12.0 GB
Available Virtual Memory 10.3 GB
Page File Space 5.99 GB
Page File C:\pagefile.sys



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April 11, 2010 4:00:28 AM

Shadow703793 said:
Imo, return everything (except case,CPU,HDD,Tuner, DVD RW) and get everything else from Newegg and start over. That would be the easiest thing to do.

HOWEVER, do try a new PSU first.



Well, if my money tree would just go ahead and bloom already I would just go right out and buy everything all over again. Unfortunately though, the "tree" has withered away and I'm passed the return policy dates on every. So let's see if all you super knowledgeable geeks can handle the slightly more complicated task of guiding me through what ever it might take to get what I do have working, PLEASE!

I'm sure I've mentioned the fact that I did try another "name brand" PSU with the very same results (Corsair 750w).
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April 11, 2010 6:04:23 AM

Okay just looking through the information you posted, trying to figure out where you're at right now. You have all the hardware but have Windows 7 installed to your HDD (which you wanted to use for data storage or whatever) and have the SSD as an extra drive right now (you want the OS installed on this drive)?

I created a media PC last year with an SSD with Vista and didn't have any problems so I haven't seen that issue offhand. A quick search brings this up:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/250864-32-install-win...

"Physically remove connections to ALL disks on your computer EXCEPT your SSD so it's the only disk connected. Then Windows install WILL see the SSD and you can install Windows 7 to it (and I assume Vista)."

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=182884

"I had the very same issue with my rig (But with 6 samsung's installed as well as my OCZ)

It all worked beautiful once I pulled all but the SSD from the machine. Get Win7 on, and then plug in the other drives.

Been 100% perfect ever since."

"Plus the SSD in on its own and also try IDE mode as well as ACHI." - Change can be made in BIOS.

Dunno if you've tried just booting with the SSD only but it's worth a shot. Try that to get Windows 7 installed and completely updated and then add the 2nd hard drive. I wouldn't worry about BSOD's with your current setup, just concentrate on troubleshooting getting Windows to install on that SSD. You currently know that Windows 7 will install on a hard drive, we just need to figure out how to get it onto the SSD. Deal with that problem first and then move onto any problems that come up afterwards.
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April 11, 2010 6:42:32 AM

2097170,11,91085 said:
Okay just looking through the information you posted, trying to figure out where you're at right now. You have all the hardware but have Windows 7 installed to your HDD (which you wanted to use for data storage or whatever) and have the SSD as an extra drive right now (you want the OS installed on this drive)?

I created a media PC last year with an SSD with Vista and didn't have any problems so I haven't seen that issue offhand. A quick search brings this up:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/250864-32-install-win...

"Physically remove connections to ALL disks on your computer EXCEPT your SSD so it's the only disk connected. Then Windows install WILL see the SSD and you can install Windows 7 to it (and I assume Vista)."

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=182884

"I had the very same issue with my rig (But with 6 samsung's installed as well as my OCZ)

It all worked beautiful once I pulled all but the SSD from the machine. Get Win7 on, and then plug in the other drives.

Been 100% perfect ever since."

"Plus the SSD in on its own and also try IDE mode as well as ACHI." - Change can be made in BIOS.

Dunno if you've tried just booting with the SSD only but it's worth a shot. Try that to get Windows 7 installed and completely updated and then add the 2nd hard drive. I wouldn't worry about BSOD's with your current setup, just concentrate on troubleshooting getting Windows to install on that SSD. You currently know that Windows 7 will install on a hard drive, we just need to figure out how to get it onto the SSD. Deal with that problem first and then move onto any problems that come up afterwards.[/quotems

I tried unplugging the other drive before but I will try it again since I'm not sure now in what order of attempts I did that last. Since it is past 1:30 am here, I think I will wait to try that at least until tomorrow sometime after my church duties. Thanks for the help and PLEASE stay tuned for updates. :D 
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April 11, 2010 4:35:35 PM

+1 jsc and Shadow703793, when researching reviews for psu's, always check johnnyguru.com. Hard core testing and real evaluations are presented. For a crossfire configuration with your current set up, you should have a Corsair 750TX psu. The reviews on newegg aren't too many for the Kingwin unit. You usually get what you pay for with the better built units. Your doing well with the trouble shooting and everything will come together soon. You need to slow your pace a bit and achieve a clearer overall view of things. You will have a great system and enjoy it for a long term. Have fun as you learn and good luck.
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April 11, 2010 4:46:43 PM

why do put "quotes" on pretty much "everything" "randomly" throughout "sentences"
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April 11, 2010 4:49:44 PM

@eikone: Can you exchange every component to new ones then? (aka RMA?)
(You DO NOT need to exchange, case,CPU,HDD,Tuner, DVD RW, RAM; DO exchange SSD, and motherboard.)

That way, you are pretty much starting fresh. Also what are the chances of selling parts?
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April 11, 2010 4:51:10 PM

neoletrix said:
why do put "quotes" on pretty much "everything" "randomly" throughout "sentences"

Because those are quotes.

@OP: next time:
use this code tag:
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April 11, 2010 5:10:42 PM

eikone said:

I still don't have my HD5870 back yet but I have a GT240 to use for now and I can "upgrade" to the other when it comes.


eikone said:

Is it possible to wipe everything "clean" and start over as if it were the first time, new again?

Ok, I did this and now I'm back to choosing and it says the same thing, so I clicked the "advance" button and I'm guessing this is where it will format and/or partition the drive? It shows a "size" bar with a value of 61057 MB (my SSD is 60GB) with option to change the value and "Apply" or "Cancel". Do I leave this full value or change it?

Here is a reply that I got from "Shadow 703793".

I did try unplugging the other (HDD) drive but then Windows did not recognize it {SSD) at all; there was no drive listed in the "choose drive" list.

[I just switched out the SATA cable and the drive is showing up in the BIOS menu now (must have been a faulty cable?). In Windows, under "Computer" it lists "Hard Disk Drives (1)" showing my HDD only. Under the "Device Manager" / My computer/ Disk Drives, it list both the OCZ SSD and the WDC HDD, and it says that "This device is working properly".

"Shadow" replied again and he continued to try to help me in a private thread we started for this purpose.

Basically, I did update all the updates I was told to do by my "guidance counselors" and I ran the Prive95 stress test too.


eikone said:
Ok, I've tolerated more than enough bashing on my choice of PSU brand, however, I believe the majority is based on either not knowing much about it to make an informed opinion or loyalties to "brand name" PSUs. I was looking for over all value. I'm all for brand recognition but we all know how there is a definite premium to pay for the "designer" label.


eikone said:
Unfortunately though, the "tree" has withered away and I'm passed the return policy dates on every.

I'm sure I've mentioned the fact that I did try another "name brand" PSU with the very same results (Corsair 750w).



See "BOLD". Dude you've got "some" chronic "quoting" "isssues". You should get that "checked out"
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April 11, 2010 5:57:56 PM

Shadow703793 said:
^ It's a She :lol: 


:o  misleading profile pic is misleading
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April 11, 2010 6:16:25 PM

neoletrix said:
why do put "quotes" on pretty much "everything" "randomly" throughout "sentences"



Sorry if my proper use of the English language offends you. I pride myself on being pretty good at writing and use of proper grammar, both of which seem to be a lost art these days. With test messaging, instant messaging, chat rooms, and such our language has literally been butchered.

Here is an explanation of the use of quotation marks as I have used them in most of the instances you are referring to.

(And I quote) "Another common use of quotation marks is to indicate or call attention to ironic or apologetic words:

He shared his “wisdom” with me.
The lunch lady plopped a glob of “food” onto my tray.

Quotes indicating irony, or other special use, are sometimes called scare, sneer, shock, distance, or horror quotes. They are sometimes gestured in oral speech using air quotes."

Just a thought, but I was under the impression this was a forum on pc building and not a literary discussion board. :non: 

Now back to the real subject at hand. :sarcastic: 
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April 11, 2010 6:19:01 PM

After researching your case, not sure if it's the mid or full tower version, but they seem to have issues with inadequate airflow according to some system builder reviews. You also may be having issues with the external hard drives and cables. I tend to agree with you on starting over, but not to an extreme. You now have a great psu and now maybe get a better case for airflow. Do you sit your PC on the floor? If so, that's a major source of dust, lint and animal hair if you have pets. All of these can make the PC heat build rather quickly. I keep my system on my work station with the best possible air movement around it. I've got a couple of cats, so I open my case and blow out the dust bunnies with compressed air about once a month. If I may suggest you take a look at some Cooler Master or Antec cases and see if there is one you may like. You can see video reviews for some cases on you tube. Some cases will be a complete build being shown on you tube which gives you a better idea of how congested a certain build may become. If there are connection problems, you may want to build it with internal hard drive(s). Think about it and do some research, it will all work out for you. Good luck.
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April 11, 2010 6:56:54 PM

janxta said:
After researching your case, not sure if it's the mid or full tower version, but they seem to have issues with inadequate airflow according to some system builder reviews. You also may be having issues with the external hard drives and cables. I tend to agree with you on starting over, but not to an extreme. You now have a great psu and now maybe get a better case for airflow. Do you sit your PC on the floor? If so, that's a major source of dust, lint and animal hair if you have pets. All of these can make the PC heat build rather quickly. I keep my system on my work station with the best possible air movement around it. I've got a couple of cats, so I open my case and blow out the dust bunnies with compressed air about once a month. If I may suggest you take a look at some Cooler Master or Antec cases and see if there is one you may like. You can see video reviews for some cases on you tube. Some cases will be a complete build being shown on you tube which gives you a better idea of how congested a certain build may become. If there are connection problems, you may want to build it with internal hard drive(s). Think about it and do some research, it will all work out for you. Good luck.



[SIGH] I thought I covered that already. My case is the full size model and it is ginormous ! It has great airflow and if you read back on my post you will see that a Prime95 stress test was run with good results.

Quote:
'm running the "Stress Test" now and CoreTemp. I have an appointment to go to so I guess it will be a good time to let it just run. I won't be back for about 5-6 hours so I hope it will be ok to leave it going unattended.


I did not disconnect the SSD. As I said before, I haven't tried accessing it; it's just there. I would still like to know if there is a way to test it for problems.


***Just got back and realized I should have disabled the "Sleep" mode. =[ Oh well, it did run about 1 1/2 hours (it's running again now) and temps seem to be running in the low to mid 60's. Does that seem ok? I am planning to add about 3 more fans (2 intake and 1 exhaust) around the time I get my replacement GPU.


Do you want me to send you the entire CoreTemp log and if so, how should I send it (it's loooooooong, lol)?


I have purposely stuck to the bare minimum on peripheral connections, installs, programs and whatever else until I get the system configured correctly and running stable. The external storage drive is not connected nor has it ever been to this pc.

The case is on my equally ginormous desk and I would never put my work of art on the ground. I worked too hard and spent too much time and money on this case to treat it so or to replace it with some lesser model. I LOVE MY CASE!!! :love: 

I am meticulous about a clean case both in and out. With a previous PC, I had to take it to a shop for something and the guys could not believe how clean it was (and no, I cannot take this one to that shop, it's closed).

I have also done a very clean and unobtrusive job of cable management. I really need to post some photos of it some how but I really have never done that except on Facebook and only family pics. Any guidance on the best way for me to do this would be great too. :??: 
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April 11, 2010 9:37:22 PM

eikone said:
Sorry if my proper use of the English language offends you. I pride myself on being pretty good at writing and use of proper grammar, both of which seem to be a lost art these days. With test messaging, instant messaging, chat rooms, and such our language has literally been butchered.

Here is an explanation of the use of quotation marks as I have used them in most of the instances you are referring to.

(And I quote) "Another common use of quotation marks is to indicate or call attention to ironic or apologetic words:

He shared his “wisdom” with me.
The lunch lady plopped a glob of “food” onto my tray.

Quotes indicating irony, or other special use, are sometimes called scare, sneer, shock, distance, or horror quotes. They are sometimes gestured in oral speech using air quotes."

Just a thought, but I was under the impression this was a forum on pc building and not a literary discussion board. :non: 

Now back to the real subject at hand. :sarcastic: 


thats "fine", you should "get back" to the "subject" at "hand", which is "replacing" all of the "defective" "parts" of your "computer"

"edit:" and by "that" i "meant" blaming "the manufacturers" for all the "stuff" you "broke" while "putting" "together" your "build". fact is that "unless" you are the "most" unlucky "person" on the "planet", there "shouldn't" be "this" many "things" wrong "with" your "computer"
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April 11, 2010 10:24:03 PM

^ Seriously. Stop bashing the OP. The OP's post is 10x more understandable than some of the cr@p some people post here.

As for breaking things: I had a very good friend who managed to receive a completely bad set of parts from a local PC store. We later found out that the store "accidentally" sold us customer returned parts. And yes, he did know WTF he was doing. That was his ~7th build.
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April 11, 2010 11:05:25 PM

@OP... my two cents

In reading through this post, you have provided good info and received good info. The two things that haven't seem to have been reviewed or addressed is your RAM settings (timings, voltage & speed) and PSU. You have pretty much verified everything except those two. I would look to swap PSU's with a Corsair, Antec or OCZ to rule that issue out. When it comes to PSU, don't trust EE's at Microcenter. My first build they recommended me a TAGAN PSU that died twice and the final one took my CPU & MOBO. The PSU is the last componenet you want to buy cheap on, plus it is one of the few that can go from build to build, if a good brand.

Have you tried running MemTest86 to verify no defective RAM or stability issues (sorry if I missed you saying you did). This would be my next step in the process. After you finally figure out the issue, you get to have fun of restarting the process by doing a fresh install on your SSD, so it is your boot drive.

Hang in there... You figure out the issue eventually (which typically ends up being the simpliest thing that was overlooked)
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April 12, 2010 12:05:23 AM

Tecmo34 the OP has already said very early in this thread that she swapped PSU's with a corsair....same issue.As for Tagan PSU's i have a ancient 380 that still works and is powering my media PC with no issues....I guess its really just bad luck on your Tagan PSU.Anyways I agrree with Tecmo34 when it comes to testing the memory ,sometimes a bad ram chip can cause a whole lot of issues.And here's my 3 cents , from what i read , you have done a great job problem solving and checking the issues, and here's my suggestions.1. make sure your bios is up to date (I know a stretch but hey why not eh) 2.Like Tecmo34 suggested , test the memory and replace any bad chips 3.Do what Shadow suggests and RMA the Mobo and SSD and see if that solves it.

Now I'm still worried that the BSOD are just signs of more issues that need to be solved , but for the short term get that SSD goin...........and for sh-t's and giggles try installing Windows 7 on that SSD on a friends PC and see if it goes.........also do a open bench build.Lemme explain:take you Mobo , take it out of the case , leave the cpu in the mobo with the cooler , install the ram and video card , and then try to install win 7 on that SSD.My thought is that you may have some grounding issues , a stretch again but why not......other then that i'm not sure without being there to brainstorm with you.


Good luck
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April 12, 2010 1:58:12 AM

Shadow703793 said:
^ Seriously. Stop bashing the OP. The OP's post is 10x more understandable than some of the cr@p some people post here.

As for breaking things: I had a very good friend who managed to receive a completely bad set of parts from a local PC store. We later found out that the store "accidentally" sold us customer returned parts. And yes, he did know WTF he was doing. That was his ~7th build.




I agree 100% about the bashing ( help the OP out or get lost!!! )

I am getting lost in this post myself

1. We are trying to get your OS and programs on the SSD ?

2. You are still getting BOSD ?

3. Did your new ati HD 5870 work now ?

Also i need your ram Specs DDR3 1600 6 gigs don't help i need to know ( 1600 1.6v 8-8-8-24 ) So we can get your ram setup in the bios, this might help the BSOD, if your still having them.
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April 12, 2010 4:05:55 AM

Wow, quite a lot of conversing going on here while I've been working! Thanks for the anti-bashing support too. I believe that the better I can communicate my problems the better they can be understood and hopefully solved. I'll have to admit that understanding some people's posts is harder than trying to figure out how to solve the problem. :pt1cable: 

Ok, here's where I am now. I decided to use the good brain God gave me and stop second guessing everything I know how to do already. More often than not, I am really looking for others to verify what I'm pretty sure I should be doing anyway. I've never had an over abundance of self confidence (unlike "some" around here, :lol:  ).

I first tested the original SATA cable that I first used to connect the SSD when I couldn't get it running correctly. I used it to connect the CD/DVD drive and I popped in a movie DVD. It began loading and then froze up on the beginning "Warning, copyrighted" screen. Tried twice with same results. switched cables back, retried and it played fine, so I know the SATA cable is defective.

Next, I disconnected the HDD completely and used it's SATA cable to connect the SSD. I swapped out the GT240 card for the replacement HD5870 that arrived yesterday. I removed and reseated each of the memory cards and installed an additional front intake fan. I also cleared the CMOS RTC RAM by removing the cell battery and moving the jumper

As I said yesterday, the new card did arrive, but I'm thinking now that it may not have been defective after all. I will chalk this one up to having never owned a GPU requiring addition power supply AND the terrible generic and vague installation instructions provided with the card. The card came packaged with a 6-pin Y-adapter that I of course used on it. All the time I kept wondering why there were two 6-pin plugs on the card but only the one adapter. The instructions showed only an illustration of a card with one 6-pin plug and a notice "Important: Both ends of equipped Y-cable adapter must be plugged into power unit". I did try internet searches and both ATI and VisionTek support sites for any specific instructions for this particular card. My initial conclusion was that the second plug was for use when more than one card was installed. Yeah, go ahead and laugh at my ignorance, I know I will someday, but truthfully, I had very little by way of instructions to go on.

This time I tried connecting the same way again and when I powered up, the same lack of sufficient power alarm. This time I knew it could not be the card again so I went by my own common sense and ditched the Y-adapter and used the two PCIe cables provided with my PSU. It started up just fine! :D 

Now I am back to square one in setting the systems and installing the OS. :sol: 
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April 12, 2010 4:22:29 AM

Ok now we are going to try to setup the SSD for the OS and programs right ? If so leave the HDD out for now and plug in the SSD

Go into bios set it to optimal defaults, set your ram speed / volts/ and timings / now set AHCI / save and go back to bios, set your DVD to boot first / put in the OS and see if it will install, if not you might need to hit F6 and install drivers for the AHCI

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April 12, 2010 4:39:55 AM

eikone said:
Wow, quite a lot of conversing going on here while I've been working! Thanks for the anti-bashing support too. I believe that the better I can communicate my problems the better they can be understood and hopefully solved. I'll have to admit that understanding some people's posts is harder than trying to figure out how to solve the problem. :pt1cable: 

Ok, here's where I am now. I decided to use the good brain God gave me and stop second guessing everything I know how to do already. More often than not, I am really looking for others to verify what I'm pretty sure I should be doing anyway. I've never had an over abundance of self confidence (unlike "some" around here, :lol:  ).

I first tested the original SATA cable that I first used to connect the SSD when I couldn't get it running correctly. I used it to connect the CD/DVD drive and I popped in a movie DVD. It began loading and then froze up on the beginning "Warning, copyrighted" screen. Tried twice with same results. switched cables back, retried and it played fine, so I know the SATA cable is defective.

Next, I disconnected the HDD completely and used it's SATA cable to connect the SSD. I swapped out the GT240 card for the replacement HD5870 that arrived yesterday. I removed and reseated each of the memory cards and installed an additional front intake fan. I also cleared the CMOS RTC RAM by removing the cell battery and moving the jumper

As I said yesterday, the new card did arrive, but I'm thinking now that it may not have been defective after all. I will chalk this one up to having never owned a GPU requiring addition power supply AND the terrible generic and vague installation instructions provided with the card. The card came packaged with a 6-pin Y-adapter that I of course used on it. All the time I kept wondering why there were two 6-pin plugs on the card but only the one adapter. The instructions showed only an illustration of a card with one 6-pin plug and a notice "Important: Both ends of equipped Y-cable adapter must be plugged into power unit". I did try internet searches and both ATI and VisionTek support sites for any specific instructions for this particular card. My initial conclusion was that the second plug was for use when more than one card was installed. Yeah, go ahead and laugh at my ignorance, I know I will someday, but truthfully, I had very little by way of instructions to go on.

This time I tried connecting the same way again and when I powered up, the same lack of sufficient power alarm. This time I knew it could not be the card again so I went by my own common sense and ditched the Y-adapter and used the two PCIe cables provided with my PSU. It started up just fine! :D 

Now I am back to square one in setting the systems and installing the OS. :sol: 


Great, I knew that was a power alarm from the old card :)  Unfortunately I never saw your first post :(  Anyway, when you start getting IRQL Not Less Than Or Equal error screens, you can get different RAM as well :)  I can't believe anyone still buys "Gold Series"...
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April 12, 2010 5:20:54 AM

Niklas_13 said:
Ok now we are going to try to setup the SSD for the OS and programs right ? If so leave the HDD out for now and plug in the SSD

Go into bios set it to optimal defaults, set your ram speed / volts/ and timings / now set AHCI / save and go back to bios, set your DVD to boot first / put in the OS and see if it will install, if not you might need to hit F6 and install drivers for the AHCI



Well, I hope I didn't jump the gun too fast, but I've just finished the Windows install. I used previous instructions given on this forum and my own good sense again and everything seems to be working fine so far.

I left most BIOS settings at their default settings, changing only the boot priority (for CD/DVD drive) and enabling the CPU Q-Fan Control and setting it to the Standard setting. Let me know if this sounds alright.

As for as the ram speed / volts/ and timings, I'm not sure about how to do this but I think it is on an auto detect setting (again, you can let me know if this is OK).

Now that it is running, I don't mind being guided through the best steps in getting everything else updated, setup and whatever else needs to be done to get it running at optimum performance, and of course, setting up the HDD like I wanted it to begin with. I'm assuming I will need to reformat it but I've never done this inthis type of setup.

I've got a lot of work to catch up on and I'm soooooooooo far behind on my gaming! It's been way too long since I've felt the pleasures of blasting the brains out of some bad guys and destroying what ever stands between me and my objectives! :hot:  :gun:  I've had to resort to shooting coons that I catch in the trash cans outside (and one I shot that got in the house through the dog door)! :evil: 
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April 12, 2010 5:52:35 AM

I've got a lot of work to catch up on and I'm soooooooooo far behind on my gaming! It's been way too long since I've felt the pleasures of blasting the brains out of some bad guys and destroying what ever stands between me and my objectives! :hot:  :gun:  I've had to resort to shooting coons that I catch in the trash cans outside (and one I shot that got in the house through the dog door)! :evil: 

lol :) 


Well, now that the OS is on the SSD you can go ahead and install the HDD reformat it and use it for a storage drive.

1. I would make sure you setup the ram ( So you don't run into any BSOD problems ) or freezes

Maybe someone that has that bios can help you out ( if not i can look it up )

2. Run a memetest over night to make sure your rams stable

3. make sure you have all the new drivers for your mobo GPU and updates for your OS ( even the newest bios ) < should of done this first :) 

4. run Prime95 for a few hours on each test to make sure its stable ( some will run it for 12 hours )

5. Monitor temps to make sure your GPU and CPU are staying cool


Last have fun with it ( and kill a lot of the bad guys in games ) not me tho :p 
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April 12, 2010 7:11:07 AM

I installed all the updates and drivers using the program on the CD provided with the MOBO. Also installed AVGfree and FireFox. Don't want to do anything else tonight cause the brain is now tired (it's 2am) but relieved and satisfied. :sleep: 

I think I will tackle the rest of the set up and stuff tomorrow (or at this time, a little later this morning, LOL). Now I know I will be able to sleep contently knowing that I have finally conquered and succeeded. :sol:  Now if I can just get those darn taxes filed before the 15th! :cry: 
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April 12, 2010 5:59:45 PM

ok post back if you need anything else.
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April 12, 2010 6:07:22 PM

I have the same ram as you do, and it sucks. I had to RMA it and between 6 sticks I managed to find 3 that worked. I also have the same motherboard as you do. It will not correctly detect the ram. You have to set the timings manually. I would contact OCZ and ask for the correct settings including the command rate. I know my are 9-9-9-20 2N, but without a model number I can't tell you what yours should be. Also you should manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.64v.
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April 12, 2010 7:06:49 PM

jsrudd said:
I have the same ram as you do, and it sucks. I had to RMA it and between 6 sticks I managed to find 3 that worked. I also have the same motherboard as you do. It will not correctly detect the ram. You have to set the timings manually. I would contact OCZ and ask for the correct settings including the command rate. I know my are 9-9-9-20 2N, but without a model number I can't tell you what yours should be. Also you should manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.64v.


Nah, the board detects the RAM exactly the way OCZ programmed it to be detected. You can't blame the board for RAM that doesn't have a proper profile programed into it.
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April 12, 2010 7:31:10 PM

jsrudd said:
I have the same ram as you do, and it sucks. I had to RMA it and between 6 sticks I managed to find 3 that worked. I also have the same motherboard as you do. It will not correctly detect the ram. You have to set the timings manually. I would contact OCZ and ask for the correct settings including the command rate. I know my are 9-9-9-20 2N, but without a model number I can't tell you what yours should be. Also you should manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.64v.



Yeah, I think I got in too big of hurry to just get everything I needed to get started on building that I settled for componants that were not really the ones I had planned on getting. That was the biggest drawback to shopping in the Micro Center retail store. The temptation to compromise for something you could actually put your hands on and take home with you was too great. This RAM was the only DDR3 they had to choose from. Red flag did pop up in the back of my head (along with a few others) but I stupidly ignored it. I was afraid that real life demands would end up sucking up the money I had manged to set aside for my new build before I could make up my mind on exactly where and what to order. I fell trap to compulsory shopping that forced me to compromise my choices. Another lesson learned in the School of Hard Knocks! :oops: 

Without actually pulling out one of the memory sticks right now, here is the info off the package they came in:
OCZ 3G 1600LVGK; what I can see on the label that is on the sticks (again without removing them) is: PC3 12800.

Got take my daughter to work, but when I get back I will search for info on them.

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April 12, 2010 9:08:36 PM

OK, now I am confused! I really do need detailed, dumbed down instructions on how to set the RAM timing and voltage. I went into the BIOS and I think I found where to set it but I'm not sure and there's way to many choices so I really have no idea which ones to mess with. Obviously I do not have experience in working in BIOS. I don't want to screw up anything!

If someone has my same MOBO and/or knows the BIOS menu layout for it and how to check and change the setting for RAM (and anything else I should do in there) please help.
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April 12, 2010 9:59:42 PM

^ Can you post a pic of the BIOS screen?
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April 12, 2010 10:35:24 PM

eikone said:
OK, now I am confused! I really do need detailed, dumbed down instructions on how to set the RAM timing and voltage. I went into the BIOS and I think I found where to set it but I'm not sure and there's way to many choices so I really have no idea which ones to mess with. Obviously I do not have experience in working in BIOS. I don't want to screw up anything!

If someone has my same MOBO and/or knows the BIOS menu layout for it and how to check and change the setting for RAM (and anything else I should do in there) please help.

If this is your memory:
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/ocz_ddr3_p...

Set DRAM Frequency to 1600 MHz
Click DRAM Timing Control and set the first four settings to 8-8-8-24
Hit "Esc" to go back to the main menu
Set QPI/DRAM Core Voltage to 1.35V
Set DRAM Bus Voltage to 1.65V

Hit F10, enter
Cross your fingers and hope it reboots
keep your fingers crossed and hope it loads windows
Start a program, and feel free to use explicatives when you get a BSOD.
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April 12, 2010 11:41:15 PM

Crashman said:
If this is your memory:
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/memory/ocz_ddr3_p...

Set DRAM Frequency to 1600 MHz
Click DRAM Timing Control and set the first four settings to 8-8-8-24
Hit "Esc" to go back to the main menu
Set QPI/DRAM Core Voltage to 1.35V
Set DRAM Bus Voltage to 1.65V

Hit F10, enter
Cross your fingers and hope it reboots
keep your fingers crossed and hope it loads windows
Start a program, and feel free to use explicatives when you get a BSOD.


Wow, that's really reassuring! :ouch: 

I saw all that when in the BIOS and I figured out most of that. The main confusion is " the first four settings". There are three "Information" heading (1st, 2nd, 3rd) with 10, 4, and 12 sub-headings respectively. By "the first four settings", do you mean the first four settings under the "1st Instruction: 6-6-6-15-4-36-6-5-16-0"? I'm assuming it is the "6-6-6-15" portion of this section? I'm just being (over) cautious.

I'm also trying to install the HDD now. Since I used it before I got the SSD running I know I need to reformat it. I've already deleted the partitions and am ready to format it. My question before I do this is, can I partition this drive so that it acts like two HDDs and can I choose which drive to install certain programs and files to? What I would like to be able to do is keep my gaming and business programs and files completely separated. I ask this because someone suggested that it was not possible to load programs on a drive other than the C: drive. I don't believe this is the case because I'm quiet sure that I have used my external drive that way before. Please correct and educate me as necessary.
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April 13, 2010 12:19:19 AM

"Set QPI/DRAM Core Voltage to 1.35V
Set DRAM Bus Voltage to 1.65V "

I'm in BIOS now (using 2nd PC for forum) and have set the timing (8-8-8-24) and the QPI/DRAM Core voltage (1.35) but when I try to set the DRAM Bus voltage to 1.65, it reverts to 1.66 and gives me a warning "According to Intel CPU SPEC, DIMMs with voltage setting over 1.65v may damage CPU permanently!!". I set it to 1.64 and it accepts that. Apparently it will not register odd number entries. Does this sound right?
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April 13, 2010 12:27:58 AM

eikone said:
My question before I do this is, can I partition this drive so that it acts like two HDDs and can I choose which drive to install certain programs and files to? What I would like to be able to do is keep my gaming and business programs and files completely separated. I ask this because someone suggested that it was not possible to load programs on a drive other than the C: drive. I don't believe this is the case because I'm quiet sure that I have used my external drive that way before. Please correct and educate me as necessary.


Yes, you can do that pretty easily. Whoever told you that you can't install on drives other than C: was wrong. When you're installing a new program, just choose the advanced install options and select a different drive.

In case you need a quick run-through on formatting & partitioning, you can do it all in Windows.

Go to My Computer (right click) -> Manage -> select Disk Management (under Storage)

From there, you can select your HDD and format/partition/whatever.
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April 13, 2010 12:39:32 AM

eikone said:
"Set QPI/DRAM Core Voltage to 1.35V
Set DRAM Bus Voltage to 1.65V "

I'm in BIOS now (using 2nd PC for forum) and have set the timing (8-8-8-24) and the QPI/DRAM Core voltage (1.35) but when I try to set the DRAM Bus voltage to 1.65, it reverts to 1.66 and gives me a warning "According to Intel CPU SPEC, DIMMs with voltage setting over 1.65v may damage CPU permanently!!". I set it to 1.64 and it accepts that. Apparently it will not register odd number entries. Does this sound right?


Yes. If 1.64 works OK, great. If it's not stable at 1.64V, 1.66 won't hurt the CPU because you raised the memory controller voltage to 1.35V :) 
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April 13, 2010 12:58:50 AM

Ok, that was rather unnerving! As soon as selected "SAVE" everything shut off completely! It has rebooted now, but as if it crashed (which it did). Is this normal?!?

Is there a way to check the BIOS settings in Windows?

Also, what system test (and where do I get them) can I run to see if everything is running as it should? I don't want to starting loading stuff on here until I know it's stable and safe. I really don't want to have to keep recovering and reinstalling all my programs and stuff.

Eventually I'm going to need to transfer data from this old borrowed PC to the new one and also organize my external HDD. The latter was used to recover data lost on my previous PC (the fried one) that my husband "accidentally" did a complete System Recovery on. I was able to recover most of my images but they are totally disorganized and fragmented.
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April 13, 2010 1:08:01 AM

I use

Memetest+ ver 4.0
Prime95
Intelburn test
Real Temps
HWMonitor
CPU-Z
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April 13, 2010 1:52:05 AM

eikone said:
Ok, that was rather unnerving! As soon as selected "SAVE" everything shut off completely! It has rebooted now, but as if it crashed (which it did). Is this normal?!?

Is there a way to check the BIOS settings in Windows?

Also, what system test (and where do I get them) can I run to see if everything is running as it should? I don't want to starting loading stuff on here until I know it's stable and safe. I really don't want to have to keep recovering and reinstalling all my programs and stuff.

Eventually I'm going to need to transfer data from this old borrowed PC to the new one and also organize my external HDD. The latter was used to recover data lost on my previous PC (the fried one) that my husband "accidentally" did a complete System Recovery on. I was able to recover most of my images but they are totally disorganized and fragmented.


It's common on several motherboards, that when you make a major change in BIOS it will power off completely before restarting with the new settings. Now, on to the stability test!
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April 13, 2010 4:18:14 AM

Crashman said:
It's common on several motherboards, that when you make a major change in BIOS it will power off completely before restarting with the new settings. Now, on to the stability test!



It didn't just power down, it was like I had pulled the plug! Anyhow, I went back in the BIOS and changed the DRAM Bus voltage to 1.66 and it seems to be doing better now.

Now I can't stay up all night working on this thing and running tests. I have to go to work in the morning. What would be the best test to set to run over night, where do I get the "Test" from and is there any other pretest adjustments or updates and such that I need to do before running the tests?
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April 13, 2010 4:28:11 AM

eikone said:
Now I can't stay up all night working on this thing and running tests. I have to go to work in the morning. What would be the best test to set to run over night, where do I get the "Test" from and is there any other pretest adjustments or updates and such that I need to do before running the tests?


Memtest 86+. http://www.memtest.org

All you should need to do is burn the CD and let it run. (Go to the free download link and grab the Windows ISO file.)
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April 14, 2010 12:31:11 AM

coldsleep said:
Memtest 86+. http://www.memtest.org

All you should need to do is burn the CD and let it run. (Go to the free download link and grab the Windows ISO file.)



I let the Memtest 86+ run last night and this morning it was frozen. I started it again and left it running while I went to work and asked my husband to check in on it before he went to bed (over night truck driver). He called me around noon and said it had froze up again. When I got home I ran it again and it almost immediately seemed have detected errors (duh!). Since I have never used this utility before, I'm not really sure how to interpret the results. Again, this is obviously geared toward more experienced users. I did look for directions on the website and, as best as I can figure, the test does not have the ability to distinguish which module has errors, just that there are errors. I am now running the test again with only one stick installed at a time to try and determine which one(s) has errors.

Anyone experience in this please feel free to chime in and let me know if I'm off track here or not. I'm just trying to learn to trust my own powers of reasoning. :??: 
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!