Neverending bubbles, cavitation?

ahemsa

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I have a water cooling setup as follows, don't laugh too hard.

The system started with a corsair all in one closed loop system. I found a killer deal on a waterblock for my graphics card and I got a good deal on a reservoir so I decided to expand my system. I cut the sealed system apart and adapted to the new components. I configured the system as follows:

1. Reservoir to CPU Waterblock / pump
2. cpu block / pump to GPU block
3. GPU block to radiator
4. radiator back to reservoir

There is a fill port T'd into the line going between the radiator and reservoir. After quite a bit of CPU yoga I got all the air out of the system and it worked OK. Trouble is the water only flowed at a little bit of a trickle and my temps could get higher than I wanted them under some circumstances. A friend had a similar setup in which he ended up with two pumps in the same loop and he had fantastic flow. I decided to try it and see what happened. I found a phobya DC12-400 pump for a good price so I picked it up. To make it fit in my system I plumbed it in after the CPU waterblock / pump, before the graphics card.

The system works GREAT and I'm pleased to report 40 degree F drop in my GPU temps! The only problem is that I now seem to have an endless supply of bubbles in the system. Let me start off by saying there are no leaks in the system. The water level never varies even after running for weeks at a time. The bubbles appear in the line between the CPU pump / waterblock and the new pump. When the bubbles show up they can be trapped by the hose routing, but not in such a way that they prevent or restrict flow. They get sucked through the pump and eventually up to the radiator where they are never seen again. They don't seem to be hurting anything, my temps stay nice and low even after thrashing the CPU and GPU full tilt for 24 hours straight.

I am wondering if maybe what I am seeing as "air bubbles" might actually be steam caused by extremely low pressure in the line between the pumps. My second pump is strong enough to collapse the soft vinyl tubing between them. I made a long coil to put in the hose to keep it from collapsing, which is working great, but the bubbles keep forming. Like I said, it's not hurting anything and my water levels are stable so I'm just curious more than anything. Anybody seen it before? I can only figure my friend didn't have this problem because his pumps were much more evenly sized and thus didn't have a huge pressure differential between them.

I feel like the "fix" is to just eliminate the CPU waterblock / pump altogether and run it as follows:

1. reservoir to pump
2. pump to cpu waterblock (no pump style)
3. cpu waterblock to gpu
4. gpu to radiator
5. radiator to reservoir
 
Solution

ahemsa

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Hey thanks for the reply. Also I appreciate your cooling fan roundup. It helped me select a fan for my next project.

On this one though I really don't believe it is trapped air. When there is air trapped in either pump I can hear it and that is not the case here. I can lay the case on it's side with or without it running and the "bubble" will instantly dislodge and flow through. I can move it shake it rock it power cycle it, etc and get no more bubbles. I set it back where it goes and within an hour it will be back. I have done that 4x today. If you saw the size of the bubbles when I do lay the case over you would see there would be no way for THAT much air to be trapped in it without it overheating and/or burning up the pump. Too see it the thing just screams leak but the water level is perfectly solid and there is no water in the case. It really beats all I ever saw.

I guess I'll just deal with it. It isn't causing me problems and the poor system (q6600 and 8800 ultra) is well beyond its prime, not really worth fussing over. I just picked up an ATCS 840 case that I intend to build an i7 in.

I still welcome any ideas as it really is puzzling, just not worth throwing anymore money at.
 
If water can get out, air can get in, If you have no apparent leaks then you have no air getting in.

Sometimes these air bubbles can be a pain to get out, I've even turned a machine completely upside down to get rid of a stubborn one.

You can always post a picture of your layout to see if there's anything you've done in the loop setup causing problems, but otherwise keep moving and tilting the case until you win.
 

ahemsa

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Remember I said try not to laugh, I make it a point to get the most out of my hardware, including my case. It began life years ago as an INWIN 500. For whatever reason I never got around to painting the feet, I need to do that.

20130313_093130.jpg


20130313_093021.jpg


The water cooler started out as a Corsair closed system, I believe an old school H60, I don't remember the exact number and I don't have the box. I expanded the system with the phobya DC12-400 pump, koolance 8800 water block, and a phobya dual bay reservoir.

Water flows out of the bottom of the reservoir (where there should never be any bubbles) down the left hand line to where it loops back up into the CPU waterblock / pump. If any bubbles did somehow make it into this line, they wouldn't make the turn. From the CPU waterblock / pump it flows to my inline pump. This is the line the bubbles like to appear in. From the inline pump this line loops into the bottom of the video card waterblock. From the video card waterblock it goes straight up to the radiator. From the radiator it returns to the top of the reservoir. There is a T in the line between the radiator and the reservoir for a fill port in the top of the case.

FWIW, the "loops" are in there mainly because I have pieced this together bit by bit and do not have anything but straight barbs. In my new machine when I build a "proper" setup I'll use various angle barbs to eliminate some of the mess and make purging air easier. Also note that I run the reservoir completely full, the only air in the system is the tiny bit trapped in the line between the radiator and the fill port. No air ever hits the top of the radiator so no air can ever leave the bottom. The hoses and valves out the back are connected to an 8 gallon external reservoir.


 

ahemsa

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Not sure how it really applies to the question, but OK.

coolmax 850W PSU
Asus P5WDH Deluxe
Core2Quad Q6600 @ 3 GHz - lapped and mirror polished
Corsair H60 waterblock / pump - lapped and mirror polished
Arctic Silver Thermal Paste
8GB OCZ DDR2 6400 RAM @ 416 MHz
XFX Nvidia 8800 Ultra softmodded to quadro OC'd to 675 GPU / 1152 RAM
Koolance GPU waterblock
boot drive - 2x Seagate 7200 RPM 160GB in raid 0
storage drive - 2TB Seagate 7200 RPM SATA
slush drive - 300GB Seagate 7200 RPM PATA
cd burner - asus 24x lightscribe PATA DVD burner
phobya DC12-400 inline pump
phobya dual 5 1/4" bay reservoir
teac 3 1/2" floppy
Corsair h60 120mm radiator with dual fans push/pull
3/8 & 1/2 inch tubing as the fittings allowed
8 gallon external reservoir with pondmaster submersible continuous duty 120v pump controlled by 1/4 turn ball valves
INWIN 500 case painted black, side panel window added. opposite side panel modified for 2x120mm thermaltake intake fans
dynex card reader
frontx front panel system with USB and firewire ports
office
3br / 2bth
KY
USA
Earth
sector 001 (for the Trek geeks out there)

System is 24+ hour combined prime95 & MSI kombustor stable.

What else would you like to know?
 


First of all, Please do not take offense at the criticism, I'm only doing it to help you, it is the reason I asked you to show a picture of your setup.

#1 All the brass fittings you've used have much smaller IDs than the tubing mostly run in your setup and smaller ID is increased flow restriction anyway you look at it.

The cost invested in those brass fittings could probably have offset the price of completely replacing the tubing 2 times over and eliminated those fittings altogether.

You also have reducers connecting the old Corsair parts that restrict flow even further.

#2 I have also used an external reservoir in the past running 8 gallons of water adding 2 ice blocks for chilling the water, but never used decreased ID tubing to connect it, with the brass valves being even smaller ID and being flow restrictive as well.

#3 I suggest getting a XSPC Raystorm water block and loosing that wimpy Corsair pump, the Phobya pump is more than capable of handling the entire loop, the Corsair pump is actually holding you back and forcing the Phobya to work overtime, adding unnecessary stress.

#4 If you would rethink your setup you could seriously improve the performance but you definitely need a better radiator than that Corsair radiator, what does it have 1/4" tubing?

#5 Is the Brass Tee above a fill or drain port?
If it is you could have used either of the brass valves to the external reservoir as a filling or drain ports and eliminated that restriction.

Note: I've never used a tubing fill port or drain port at all, (Reason Being!, If I am going to drain my system, I am going to replace the tubing anyway, so I cut the tubing at the lowest point and drain the entire system), doesn't your bay reservoir have a fill port

Additional Note: If you did nothing else I suggest, at least get rid of all those brass connection fittings.

#6 What is the coil in the line from the Corsair ~ Phobya pump, were you afraid you didn't have enough flow restriction already?

IMO Bubbles is the least you should be concerned with, your entire tubing nightmare needs to be completely reworked, and once again, I do not mean to offend you!

Edit:

Additionally anytime you use a reducer from larger ID to smaller ID you increase flow pressure out the smaller nozzle, same fluid dynamics used for strip mining.

However when you go in the opposite direction small to larger diameter you decrease the flow pressure and provide a place for bubbles to develop at the transition point of expansion, that may very well be where some of your bubbles are coming from.

Ryan

 
Solution

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
+1 to Ryan, a seasoned watercooler so I wouldn't take a grain of salt with his comments - instead get some ketchup on the side :p

The tubing used on the corsair rads are 8mmID x 10mmOD but the aluminium barbs on that rad is smaller than 8mm so +1 to restriction.
IMG_0464_zpse6ab2580.jpg


Here I thought those two valve on the top left hand of the pic were for a rad outside of case...? If not, the single 120 is yet a very bad combo for a Q6600+8800 bumped to a quadro gpu.

I'd suggest re-working the entire loop - too long a tubing run and unnecessary loopings for a route that could've been much sleeker and ofc aesthetically pleasing.

Another method would be to invest in angled fittings and see less restriction than you're already working with.

Now, the reason I asked for your setup list:
1| That's a corsair H50 and not an H60 - the H60 had a lower profile pump/block than the H50 sans corrugated tubing.
2| I have a soft spot for Core2Quads :p
3| Could get rid of the floppy drives and clean up the wires inside that case mate :)
4| You could also contain a dual 120 rad where the Tt fans are and hopefully have a third rad - 1x120 where the corsair rad is
5| You're running an aluminium rad alongside a copper block(s) and brass fittings? Have you inspected the loop and the fittings for signs of damage via galvanic corrosion or do you use some sort of a corrosion inhibitor?
 

ahemsa

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Ok, let me start off by saying that I certainly do not take offense and my answers here are not intended to be sarcastic, offensive, stuck up, etc. They are simply intended to be explanations of why things were done the way they were. Remember I said not to laugh. If I built this system from scratch for somebody and claimed it to be an ideal system, I should be kicked in the face. It was "built" over time using the cheapest means to an end using stuff I already had. I know it could be better but I also know I won't be using this system very long anyway. For now it works "well enough" to do what I need.

First of all, Please do not take offense at the criticism, I'm only doing it to help you, it is the reason I asked you to show a picture of your setup.

I do not take offense at criticism. I know the system is less than optimal but it was cheap to build because aside from the reservoir and the inline pump, I had everything laying around already.

#1 All the brass fittings you've used have much smaller IDs than the tubing mostly run in your setup and smaller ID is increased flow restriction anyway you look at it.

I had to adapt to the 1/4 tubing of the waterblock somehow. I used brass instead of plastic because I already had it and because the corsair uses the "hard plastic" instead of rubber lines I knew I would have to really tighten the clamps to make it not leak. A plastic fitting may have broken under the stress.

The cost invested in those brass fittings could probably have offset the price of completely replacing the tubing 2 times over and eliminated those fittings altogether.

Replace the tubing yes, but not the waterblock. Since I can't connect half inch tubing directly to the waterblock, I had to adapt it somehow or replace it. Remember this started out using just the waterblock / pump, not an external pump. Had I replaced the waterblock I would have immediately had to buy a new pump as well. That would have cost significantly more than using what I already had.

You also have reducers connecting the old Corsair parts that restrict flow even further.

For the same reason as the waterblock. I cannot connect directly to the radiator with half inch tubing. These are the same hard plastic lines that the waterblock uses so I had to use something sturdy to be sure I could get it tight enough to not leak. Sure I could have replaced the radiator, but that's even more money.

#2 I have also used an external reservoir in the past running 8 gallons of water adding 2 ice blocks for chilling the water, but never used decreased ID tubing to connect it, with the brass valves being even smaller ID and being flow restrictive as well.

The flow rate through the 1/4" tubing is sufficient for my needs. It was simply a proof of concept, again using parts that I already had.

#3 I suggest getting a XSPC Raystorm water block and loosing that wimpy Corsair pump, the Phobya pump is more than capable of handling the entire loop, the Corsair pump is actually holding you back and forcing the Phobya to work overtime, adding unnecessary stress.

#4 If you would rethink your setup you could seriously improve the performance but you definitely need a better radiator than that Corsair radiator, what does it have 1/4" tubing?

Certainly not bad advice, but again at what cost? I've already said I intend to build a new machine from the ground up, why throw more money at this one?

#5 Is the Brass Tee above a fill or drain port?
If it is you could have used either of the brass valves to the external reservoir as a filling or drain ports and eliminated that restriction.

It is a fill port. It was installed before I decided to try the external reservoir. At this point I do use the external for 99% of my filling / draining, however, the fill port does assist in removing air bubbles. Is that T a restriction? Possibly, but considering I have 1/4" tubing on the waterblock and radiator, not really so I leave it in there.

Note: I've never used a tubing fill port or drain port at all, (Reason Being!, If I am going to drain my system, I am going to replace the tubing anyway, so I cut the tubing at the lowest point and drain the entire system), doesn't your bay reservoir have a fill port

Yes my bay reservoir has a fill port but due to the restrictions of my old case there is no way to make it the highest point in the system, therefore it is somewhat useless.

Additional Note: If you did nothing else I suggest, at least get rid of all those brass connection fittings.

And replace them with what exactly? I cannot connect 1/2" tubing to 1/4" tubing using duct tape. Plastic reducers don't have an ID significantly higher than the brass.

#6 What is the coil in the line from the Corsair ~ Phobya pump, were you afraid you didn't have enough flow restriction already?

Well let's see, as I mentioned, the pressure differential between the two pumps was enough that the phobya pump collapses that piece of tubing so I had to prevent that somehow. You tell me, which is less restrictive, a collapsed tube, or one with a coil in it?

IMO Bubbles is the least you should be concerned with, your entire tubing nightmare needs to be completely reworked, and once again, I do not mean to offend you!

Let me assure you that you have not offended me. However, I will point out that I said ahead of time that my setup was not optimal. I know that, you can see that. The fact is I don't care. This whole system was an experiment if you will to see what works and what doesn't using parts that I already had. It was never intended to be the best water cooling system in the world. It was intended to function adequately for a minimum of cost, which it does quite well actually.

Additionally anytime you use a reducer from larger ID to smaller ID you increase flow pressure out the smaller nozzle, same fluid dynamics used for strip mining.

However when you go in the opposite direction small to larger diameter you decrease the flow pressure and provide a place for bubbles to develop at the transition point of expansion, that may very well be where some of your bubbles are coming from.

And finally after all of that we get to the actual question. I did pass fluid mechanics and thermodynamics. I am well aware of how flow restrictions, volume flow rates, pressure, etc works within a fluid system. Hence the reason that I thought that the "bubbles" might actually be steam instead of air. We know that the boiling point depends on the pressure. The exit side of the first pump is at extremely low pressure due to the suction caused by the second pump (remember it's enough to collapse the tubing). Add to that the transition from small to large tubing and I seem to have created my very own expansion valve..... maybe I should just put R134a in the system instead of distilled water....

Lutfij,

It very likely is an H50 corsair instead of an H60. Now that you mention it, that sounds right. I've had that for several years and the box is long gone (I never throw away the box so I have my wife to thank for that) and I've slept since I last saw the box so I simply couldn't remember exactly.

When I looked at the radiator with the hard lines, I wasn't sure exactly how they were connected to the radiator and I wasn't sure I could get the hard lines off without damaging it. As such I decided to adapt rather than risk damaging it. Again what I have works, not optimally, but it does work so I'm not going to spend any more time / money with it.

One final time let me say, no offense taken, nor none intended towards anybody. I had a specific question (or theory really), and I got (eventually :) ) a specific answer or confirmation of the theory. Thanks for that guys.

Now if you want talk about building it right, let's talk about my new system. I don't have the budget to build it all at once so I can't give full details, but I can tell you what I know. Since radiators, pumps, and reservoirs can be used regardless of the CPU waterblocks and such, I'll buy all of that first. Perhaps by the time I get all of that the prices will have come down on the socket 2011 stuff. If not I may go 1155. I certainly won't be going with an AMD until they figure out how to not suck.... Let me say that I used to love AMD. They used to offer performance on par with or superior to intel for less cost. If the performance was not better, the price difference was so much that it was still worthwhile. However, for several years they have not been able to keep up. They may still have low prices but in the majority of the "real world" scenarios they come up seriously short. Add to that the power consumption and thus heat generated, the benefits don't outweigh the costs, at least in my opinion. Personally I think AMD's acquisition of ATI was the beginning of the end, but that's neither here nor there really. On to my plans.

I've already got the ATCS 840, which is pretty big so I have lots of room to work with. Since I would have plenty of room I figured I would do two complete water cooling systems, one for CPU and chipset, a second for video card(s). There is room in the case for a 120x360 radiator in the top and a 120x120 in the back. Plenty of room to do push/pull on both. There is also plenty of room for reservoirs and pumps.

I thought I would use 1/2" tubing all the way with proper angled / 90 fittings for a clean look and to help prevent loops / kinking. I thought I would come out of each reservoir with 90's directly down into each pump. Should be a nice clean straight shot.

From the pumps, for the video cards I would go directly into the bottom of the GPU waterblock. If I have two I will come out of it into the second, then on to the radiator, otherwise I'll come out of the top of one then go to the radiator. I should be able to take a more or less straight shot into the 120x360 radiator at the top of the case. Coming out of the radiator I should have a fairly straight shot back to one of the reservoirs. Some fittings of different angles may help me make this a truly straight shot. I don't know exactly what I'll need until I get my reservoirs and radiators and mock it up.

For the CPU loop I will come out of the pump and likely head for the chipset first. My logic here is that the chipset probably won't be as hot as the CPU and the hose routing would be easier. I feel like if I went to the CPU first, the water could actually serve as a chipset warmer rather than a cooler, and I would have to backtrack, using more tubing and causing more clutter. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I've never used a chipset cooler. Is it really even needed?
Using the proper fittings to make it as straight a shot as possible I would go from chipset to cpu. Then from the CPU I would go to the rear 120x120 radiator using the right fittings to make it as straight a shot as possible. Out of the radiator it would be a nearly perfectly straight shot back to the reservoir.

As for waterblocks I actually like the koolance 380 CPU block. I have read some reviews where it performs very well. I have a koolance on my 8800 now and I really like it so I may stick with them. Unless something much better comes along in the mean time. I intend to lap the CPU. For thermal paste I'm not sure yet. I have traditionally used arctic silver 5 although there are supposed to be things out there that perform better these days. Suggestions on a new favorite? I haven't decided exactly on a video card(s) yet. I would love a 690 or two but the price is just a tad steep, but they are bound to come down. Since I don't know what video card I will have I can't make a decision on a waterblock for this yet.

For fans on the radiator I like the coolermaster 120's from 4Ryan6's review. It has the best CFM / db ratio out there. I will have 6 on the big radiator and 2 on the small one. I will use PWM splitters / controllers to allow me to control their speed (either with a manual fan controller or through the mobo) yet keep them in sync. Having fans running at different speeds in push / pull doesn't sound like a great idea :)

For radiators I am looking at the coolgate "all copper" units. I like their look / price, however, I haven't been able to find too much about their performance. I'm open to suggestions here. Fortunately my friend just ordered a 120x360 for use in his ATCS 840. He also ordered the exact same fans so I'll get to see how effective this combo is before I order.

Since I don't know yet if it'll be 2011 or 1155, I don't have an exact model in mind, but it will most likely be an Asus motherboard of some type. There may be other great boards out there but I've never met an Asus I didn't like so I like to stick with them, even if they cost a little more.

Thoughts, opinions? Since I have the room and I will be building it over time, cost isn't a huge concern. I was thinking with the dual cooling loops I would have an ideal setup for overclocking both the CPU and GPU's because the heat from one system would not directly impact the other. I should (in theory) be able to work them completely independently. Again since radiators, pumps, fans, etc, are all platform independent, I can get all of that first. This will allow time for prices to come down on what is currently top of the line as the new latest and greatest comes out. If all goes according to plan / budget, I'm looking about a 6 month build from start to finish.

 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
There has been a huge leap interms of innovation on the watercooling front as well :) Good news finding your answer. For the thoughts I'd primarily suggest going by the watercooling sticky and stocking up on much needed info and in the mean time head over to the watercooling gallery as well as the watercooling build logs gallery thread(s) for inspiration on a theme and the parts to look out for.

I'm strongly against bends but if they are necessary you can pull them off by getting thicker walled tubing so they don't collapse/kink under some tight bends.

We could move on from there but seeing that this thread was based on an issue with it now resolved - I'm hesitant to suggest opening a new thread or even changing the title of the thread :)

Rubix - help!
 


I thought you may have just used what was on hand at the time instead of buying all those brass connectors, and that explains the reducers as well, I myself have many times used what I had on hand instead of running to the store for an experimental project.

My advice can be taken to your new build so I don't class it as wasted, just shared increased performance knowledge, but I did not realize you had no intentions to further the pictured build, and if you clearly stated those intentions before I posted, I missed it, My Bad.

Good luck on your new build! Ryan