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Need Help Choosing The Right Motherboard

Last response: in Motherboards
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January 1, 2011 2:04:30 AM

I'll try and explain this as briefly and frankly as possible.

This is what I have for my computer:

http://support.gateway.com/s/emac/1014960R/1014960Rcl2.... (I notice that there are actually multiple things listed in certain categories, but only certain things in these categories is what I have. If it pertains to the problem I will try and figure out exactly what components I have if multiple are listed under a certain category)

Instead of using the integrated graphics I use this video card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

So on another forum unrelated to technology I asked the users what CPU I should get for this PC that would work. I was told this CPU would work:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

However when I put it in that CPU would not work as the monitor would not turn on and I didn't hear the same beeping noises as I did during a normal computer start up. I was told on the unofficial emachines forum that this CPU would not work with my mobo. (I will provide a link to this thread if someone asks)

Now the course of action I want to take is to buy a whole new MOBO, that will fit my case, work with all of my components, and work with this new CPU.

What I ask humbly from this community is to let me know simply what motherboard I should get for around 100 dollars from newegg or another major retail website that meets my needs.

Thank you for considering my problem.

More about : choosing motherboard

January 1, 2011 2:52:20 AM

runswindows95 said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

The only other thing you need to consider is you will need a copy of Windows as well. Your copy that came with the system will only work with that motherboard. You cannot use the recovery CD's at all.


Hey thanks for the simple response and link. I have no problems with getting a copy of genuine windows. Now I've had the misfortune of being given bad advice before. Nothing against you, but it would be so great to get maybe a couple other people to vouch this mobo as being compatible with all of my components and new CPU.

/edit Will I be having any problems with the open slots of my cases lining up with this mobo? Or is it fairly safe to say that all motherboards and cases line up most of the time.

Thank you again.
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January 1, 2011 4:07:59 AM

Looks like a good board to me with pretty positive reviews and is inexpensive.
Here is a link to the site about that board with CPU support
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=...

Be sure to download the memory support list before selecting memory or if you already have compatible spare memory.

You should have no problem with it lining up in your case.

By the way that graphics card you have selected is absolutely completely inadequate for any gaming unless you play solitaire or very old games.
I suggest at least a radeon HD 4650,HD 4670 which is better or a more modern Radeon HD 5550 but check your power supply and video card power consumption.

You might need a beefier reliable power supply too depending upon the graphics card selected amongst other components.
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January 1, 2011 4:24:17 AM

jj463rd said:
Looks like a good board to me with pretty positive reviews and is inexpensive.
Here is a link to the site about that board with CPU support
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=...

Be sure to download the memory support list before selecting memory or if you already have compatible spare memory.

You should have no problem with it lining up in your case.

By the way that graphics card you have selected is absolutely completely inadequate for any gaming unless you play solitaire or very old games.
I suggest at least a radeon HD 4650,HD 4670 which is better or a more modern Radeon HD 5550 but check your power supply and video card power consumption.

You might need a beefier reliable power supply too depending upon the graphics card selected amongst other components.


Well idk about the graphics card. Im sure you know how the can you run it website works. Yeah so on there for games like Sniper Ghost Warrior and Borderlands the graphics section passes. The only thing that does not pass is the CPU section. So Im not sure if I am interpreting that wrong or not.

Also you say to download the memory support list to check for compatibility. So what you're essentially telling me is to check if the 2x memory sticks I have in my computer will work with the new mobo? If thats true then I'll probably want to open up my computer and read what it says on the memory sticks then look at your link. I'll probably feel more comfortable if you also check it too after I edit that info into this post.

One more side note. Should I like clean my hard drive so its like unpartioned then install Windows after I have hooked up CPU and all?

And then one side note question my only mobo only had room for a heatsink/fan to be screwed in. The heatsink/fan that I have with my new CPU has these little snap in things like this one in the picture. Will this new motherboard be able to accommodate these snaps? (The Little Black things around the bottom corners)

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January 1, 2011 2:48:08 PM

This is the information on my Memory Sticks right?

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January 1, 2011 3:29:47 PM

Briefly reading, the reason that your CPU doesn't work is the BIOS lacks the CPUID info. OEM MOBOs are VERY limited and their BIOS even more so, all that matters to GW/Dell/HP etc is that the CPUs sold as {options} are ONLY supported with CPUID info in the BIOS. Other CPUs are looked as 'defective' or at best dummied-down. Whereas consumer MOBO offer a long list of supported CPUs.

Other than adding RAM, GPUs, and some PCI cards you're stuck. I would assume that your I/O is welded to the case, and adding 'current' components probably will over task your OEM PSU.

Therefore, I would encourage you to start from scratch.

If you want to Add RAM then either get more of the Samsung M3 78--- or use Crucial -> http://www.crucial.com/ be VERY careful to match the SAME Speed, CAS, and Voltage DDR2.
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January 1, 2011 4:27:24 PM

Check again the minimum requirements for Sniper Ghost Warrior
Graphics: Nvidia 6800 or ATI X1650, 256 MB RAM, Shader Model 3.0
http://store.steampowered.com/app/34830/

Here are the minimum requirements for Borderlands
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borderlands_(video_game)
It lists any HD3200 model however

This site lists a different minimum requirement
http://www.shacknews.com/onearticle.x/60724
A Radeon X800 or perhaps X850
Ive seen some other sites listing a minimum at the Radeon X850 XT model
so you would need at least something like a Radeon HD 4650 to play both of those games on minimum settings.
Check here
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-car...
Again I would recommend getting a better card than even the HD 4650 like a HD 5550 or perhaps a HD 5570.A HD 4670 would also work too.

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January 1, 2011 5:45:29 PM

jaquith said:
Briefly reading, the reason that your CPU doesn't work is the BIOS lacks the CPUID info. OEM MOBOs are VERY limited and their BIOS even more so, all that matters to GW/Dell/HP etc is that the CPUs sold as {options} are ONLY supported with CPUID info in the BIOS. Other CPUs are looked as 'defective' or at best dummied-down. Whereas consumer MOBO offer a long list of supported CPUs.

Other than adding RAM, GPUs, and some PCI cards you're stuck. I would assume that your I/O is welded to the case, and adding 'current' components probably will over task your OEM PSU.

Therefore, I would encourage you to start from scratch.

If you want to Add RAM then either get more of the Samsung M3 78--- or use Crucial -> http://www.crucial.com/ be VERY careful to match the SAME Speed, CAS, and Voltage DDR2.


What is an I/O? And what do you mean when you say "adding 'current' components probably will over task your OEM PSU."

Are you saying that my motherboard is welded to my case and that if I were to use a new motherboard my power supply would not be able to support it?

In that case lets say my motherboard wasn't welded on and I bought a new power supply I would be good to go?

Also is my current memory going to be good with my new MOBO?

I need to make my decision by tomorrow morning at the latest due to some circumstances. I dont know if anyone would like to help me for a little bit on an instant messenger, that way I could take up a little less time.

jj463rd said:
Check again the minimum requirements for Sniper Ghost Warrior
Graphics: Nvidia 6800 or ATI X1650, 256 MB RAM, Shader Model 3.0
http://store.steampowered.com/app/34830/

Here are the minimum requirements for Borderlands
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borderlands_(video_game)
It lists any HD3200 model however

This site lists a different minimum requirement
http://www.shacknews.com/onearticle.x/60724
A Radeon X800 or perhaps X850
Ive seen some other sites listing a minimum at the Radeon X850 XT model
so you would need at least something like a Radeon HD 4650 to play both of those games on minimum settings.
Check here
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-car...
Again I would recommend getting a better card than even the HD 4650 like a HD 5550 or perhaps a HD 5570.A HD 4670 would also work too.


Idk, I trust Can You Run It for a lot of the games I play and so far its been right. It could be wrong I suppose.

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January 1, 2011 6:02:05 PM

Jaquith means the I/O shield (Input/Output plate) which comes with every new motherboard.

No,the motherboard can be easily removed (just screws) but some cases (not many though) on name brand computers have I/O shield plates which cannot easily be removed unlike custom cases.If you have a problem removing the plate a cheap case can be had for under $25 or so.
Chances are you will be able to remove your old shield and replace it with the one that comes with the new motherboard.

Here is a great reliable power supply on sale and comes with very high ratings too.
Toms Hardware used it on their current $500 budget system marathon build recently.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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January 1, 2011 6:33:37 PM

^+1 Yes, I meant the I/O Shield {metal plate for holes for the USB, Sound, etc} for the MOBO.

Every 'rebuild' ends-up with 90% replacement... I would eBay or re-purpose the old and start from scratch.
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January 1, 2011 6:44:08 PM

Ok that power supply is within my price range, the mobo is within my price range. I'll take the risk of this I/O shield not being able to come out. I have only 100 dollars to spend and I really want to use it to get this CPU to work. I will be able to play a plethora of games which should keep me occupied until I can afford a new build. Maybe I'll save up to match however much the Cheap Build Contest will cost at a later point.

I just need some final questions answered and I will be all set. Thanks by the way for reading and answering all of my questions.

Will my new CPU's heatsink/fan be able to snap into this new motherboard?

Will my RAM be compatible with my new motherboard?

Will that PSU be compatible with my new motherboard/fit?

Will other major components like the hard drive work with the motherboard?

All my insecurities will be put to rest if I could get some answers to these questions. Again thank you very much for taking time out to help. These answers are truly very meaningful to me.
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January 1, 2011 9:33:06 PM

Will my new CPU's heatsink/fan be able to snap into this new motherboard?

Yes,It should

Will my RAM be compatible with my new motherboard?

Your system used DDR2-667 RAM and on the QVL list some DDR2-667 RAM was tested as being compatible so it probably can work off hand.If not be sure to print out the QVL list and obtain compatible tested memory which should be fairly inexpensive for a 2 X 2 GB set (total of 4 GB RAM).

Will that PSU be compatible with my new motherboard/fit?

Compatible Yes.Will it fit well take some measurements and compare to the details of the Power supply at newegg.It's an ATX power Supply

Will other major components like the hard drive work with the motherboard?

Yes,it has both IDE and SATA connections.However if you have a IDE DVD RW optical drive AND a IDE type Hard Drive you will have to change the jumpers on the back of both drives selecting one (likely the hard drive) as master and selecting the other (the DVD RW drive) as the slave.You will have to do this as that Gigabyte Motherboard only has one IDE controller for the IDE ribbon.You could also opt instead to set the jumper for CS or Cable Select too but preferably instead set the hard drive as master and the optical drive as slave.
Your current emachines system probably has the optical drive on one ribbon on one IDE controller and the hard drive on another ribbon on another IDE controller.
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January 1, 2011 11:07:58 PM

jj463rd said:
Will my new CPU's heatsink/fan be able to snap into this new motherboard?

Yes,It should

Will my RAM be compatible with my new motherboard?

Your system used DDR2-667 RAM and on the QVL list some DDR2-667 RAM was tested as being compatible so it probably can work off hand.If not be sure to print out the QVL list and obtain compatible tested memory which should be fairly inexpensive for a 2 X 2 GB set (total of 4 GB RAM).

Will that PSU be compatible with my new motherboard/fit?

Compatible Yes.Will it fit well take some measurements and compare to the details of the Power supply at newegg.It's an ATX power Supply

Will other major components like the hard drive work with the motherboard?

Yes,it has both IDE and SATA connections.However if you have a IDE DVD RW optical drive AND a IDE type Hard Drive you will have to change the jumpers on the back of both drives selecting one (likely the hard drive) as master and selecting the other (the DVD RW drive) as the slave.You will have to do this as that Gigabyte Motherboard only has one IDE controller for the IDE ribbon.You could also opt instead to set the jumper for CS or Cable Select too but preferably instead set the hard drive as master and the optical drive as slave.
Your current emachines system probably has the optical drive on one ribbon on one IDE controller and the hard drive on another ribbon on another IDE controller.


Ok im gonna put what you said into super layman's terms. So what you're saying is I have two drives. These two drives are connected to something else on to seperate ribbons. Then you say I will have to use one singular ribbon with this new motherboard. To do this you say I should set both these drives on the same ribbon track with one being connected before the other. Do I have that right? I think I will be able apply my laymans terms to the actual process.

So what I'll do is order my mobo, psu, maybe a headset in the $10-25 category and then check if I have an optical drive and hard drive that you've stated.
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January 2, 2011 12:01:51 AM

tsingh1992 said:
Ok im gonna put what you said into super layman's terms. So what you're saying is I have two drives. These two drives are connected to something else on to seperate ribbons. Then you say I will have to use one singular ribbon with this new motherboard. To do this you say I should set both these drives on the same ribbon track with one being connected before the other. Do I have that right? I think I will be able apply my laymans terms to the actual process.

So what I'll do is order my mobo, psu, maybe a headset in the $10-25 category and then check if I have an optical drive and hard drive that you've stated.

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Edit: I checked the specifications of your particular emachines you won't have to change any of the jumpers on the drives.

Your hard drive is of the SATA type (just a simple SATA cable connector to your hard drive and then to the motherboard).
You will have to use a plug for power to it though.

Your Optical Drive is IDE but since you have no other IDE drive don't bother changing any jumpers on it.
You will have to connect the ribbon cable to it from your motherboard.
Also needs a power connector from the power supply connected to it too.

You can disregard the following information although it is useful to know
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Disregard this following information but it's good to know.






Yes, you might (probably) will have to connect both the hard drive and the optical drive (the one where you put in CD's and DVD's in) on the same ribbon cable if they are BOTH IDE type drives (they probably are).With SATA drives it's different and they use different connectors both for power and for data.

With IDE (old) type drives it doesn't matter at all on which part of the ribbon cable that they are connected on to, only that if you have 2 drives the jumpers on the back of the drives must be changed on the right pins (2 pins) on each drive so that one is selected as master and another as slave otherwise if you do not have the jumpers selected correctly the drives will not be recognized (nor will Windows load nor will CD's or DVD's be read).

One can also set both drives on what's called CS or Cable Select too.
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Another example if you have a motherboard with 2 IDE controllers on the motherboard and are using 2 separate ribbon cables.

This is probably what your current emachines has (I'm guessing but probably since they generally used IDE drives when other manufacturers were using the later SATA type drives).SATA type drives I think came out in the year 2004 or maybe 2003 (I could be off a bit though).emachines used IDE drives years afterwards probably because they are cheap (inexpensive) and the cheap motherboards had IDE connectors rather than SATA ones.

If you have one Hard drive connected on one ribbon connected to the motherboard and it's the only drive then one would put the jumper on the Master and only one drive pins.

If you have a optical drive connected on a second ribbon connector to the motherboard on another IDE controller on the motherboard
the jumper on those pins on the optical drive would be selected as Master and only one drive pins.

Or instead both drives could be set on the jumper pins as CS or Cable select.

A hard drive will usually have the jumper settings labeled on the top of that hard drive.
A DVD RW drive or DVD drive or CD drive will have the jumper settings listed usually right in the back where the jumper is or on the drive itself on a sticker.
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A new motherboard (like that Gigabyte model) will usually come with a IDE ribbon cable if the motherboard has an IDE controller on the motherboard.If it had two controllers it would usually come with 2 separate ribbon cables.

The Hard Drive will also have a power plug on it and it must be connected up to the right power connector from the power supply.
Without Power the hard drive will not work.

The Optical Drive (Blu-Ray,DVD-RW,DVD or CD drive) also has to have a power connector plugged into it from the power supply also.
Otherwise it would not work either.

The ribbon connecting the drives sends data to your motherboard.

I don't think I can explain it any easier.If a Layman can't understand then the layman shouldn't be building a computer or instead it should be shown how to build one in person or have an experienced builder or friend or computer shop build it for him or her.

You can try these links.
http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGIE_enUS406US406&a...
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January 2, 2011 2:20:41 AM

jj463rd said:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit: I checked the specifications of your particular emachines you won't have to change any of the jumpers on the drives.

Your hard drive is of the SATA type (just a simple SATA cable connector to your hard drive and then to the motherboard).
You will have to use a plug for power to it though.

Your Optical Drive is IDE but since you have no other IDE drive don't bother changing any jumpers on it.
You will have to connect the ribbon cable to it from your motherboard.
Also needs a power connector from the power supply connected to it too.

You can disregard the following information although it is useful to know
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Disregard this following information but it's good to know.






Yes, you might (probably) will have to connect both the hard drive and the optical drive (the one where you put in CD's and DVD's in) on the same ribbon cable if they are BOTH IDE type drives (they probably are).With SATA drives it's different and they use different connectors both for power and for data.

With IDE (old) type drives it doesn't matter at all on which part of the ribbon cable that they are connected on to, only that if you have 2 drives the jumpers on the back of the drives must be changed on the right pins (2 pins) on each drive so that one is selected as master and another as slave otherwise if you do not have the jumpers selected correctly the drives will not be recognized (nor will Windows load nor will CD's or DVD's be read).

One can also set both drives on what's called CS or Cable Select too.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another example if you have a motherboard with 2 IDE controllers on the motherboard and are using 2 separate ribbon cables.

This is probably what your current emachines has (I'm guessing but probably since they generally used IDE drives when other manufacturers were using the later SATA type drives).SATA type drives I think came out in the year 2004 or maybe 2003 (I could be off a bit though).emachines used IDE drives years afterwards probably because they are cheap (inexpensive) and the cheap motherboards had IDE connectors rather than SATA ones.

If you have one Hard drive connected on one ribbon connected to the motherboard and it's the only drive then one would put the jumper on the Master and only one drive pins.

If you have a optical drive connected on a second ribbon connector to the motherboard on another IDE controller on the motherboard
the jumper on those pins on the optical drive would be selected as Master and only one drive pins.

Or instead both drives could be set on the jumper pins as CS or Cable select.

A hard drive will usually have the jumper settings labeled on the top of that hard drive.
A DVD RW drive or DVD drive or CD drive will have the jumper settings listed usually right in the back where the jumper is or on the drive itself on a sticker.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A new motherboard (like that Gigabyte model) will usually come with a IDE ribbon cable if the motherboard has an IDE controller on the motherboard.If it had two controllers it would usually come with 2 separate ribbon cables.

The Hard Drive will also have a power plug on it and it must be connected up to the right power connector from the power supply.
Without Power the hard drive will not work.

The Optical Drive (Blu-Ray,DVD-RW,DVD or CD drive) also has to have a power connector plugged into it from the power supply also.
Otherwise it would not work either.

The ribbon connecting the drives sends data to your motherboard.

I don't think I can explain it any easier.If a Layman can't understand then the layman shouldn't be building a computer or instead it should be shown how to build one in person or have an experienced builder or friend or computer shop build it for him or her.

You can try these links.
http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGIE_enUS406US406&a...


Thank you so very much for going through this with me. WHY IS THERE NO BOW DOWN SMILIE?!?

But in all seriousness thank you and others again for all the help.

I'll probably order this stuff from newegg on Sunday. It'll get here by Wednesday. Then I'll just delete everything off my hard drive so its a unpartioned. Hook everything up properly Wednesday night. Install windows. Install apps. Then I'll post back here about how it went.
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January 2, 2011 4:31:44 PM

It's a great card but doesn't support Direct X 11 but that might not be a problem at all with a very low budget build though.A little bit more powerful than the Radeon HD 5550 in terms of performance not much though.If you need Direct X 11 support here is a HD 5550 for around the same price.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Here is a more powerful Radeon HD 5570 (DDR3) graphics card.It's as powerful as the HD 4670 but with Direct X 11 support.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
This one is a low profile card but has brackets for regular desktop systems too.

Hard to say it's your choice really that HD 4670 card mentioned is a tested well rated card.It's an older one but still good.

The HD 5570 does have Direct X 11 support though with Eyefinity so it has some extra features.Seems to have a few issues though reading through the reviews of it.

Your choice really.If you don't want to have difficult frustrating problems for a novice the HD 4670 is probably better for you.
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By the way if you can build this PC with no problems hardware wise do you know how to configure BIOS on initial setup of the machine after powering it up?
If not you will have to read up about it.Most of the time though you can go with default settings with no problems.However sometimes one has to manually configure some settings so that it runs correctly or be optimized.
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January 2, 2011 7:03:14 PM

jj463rd said:
It's a great card but doesn't support Direct X 11 but that might not be a problem at all with a very low budget build though.A little bit more powerful than the Radeon HD 5550 in terms of performance not much though.If you need Direct X 11 support here is a HD 5550 for around the same price.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Here is a more powerful Radeon HD 5570 (DDR3) graphics card.It's as powerful as the HD 4670 but with Direct X 11 support.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
This one is a low profile card but has brackets for regular desktop systems too.

Hard to say it's your choice really that HD 4670 card mentioned is a tested well rated card.It's an older one but still good.

The HD 5570 does have Direct X 11 support though with Eyefinity so it has some extra features.Seems to have a few issues though reading through the reviews of it.

Your choice really.If you don't want to have difficult frustrating problems for a novice the HD 4670 is probably better for you.
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By the way if you can build this PC with no problems hardware wise do you know how to configure BIOS on initial setup of the machine after powering it up?
If not you will have to read up about it.Most of the time though you can go with default settings with no problems.However sometimes one has to manually configure some settings so that it runs correctly or be optimized.


Im not to keen on like advanced BIOS stuff. But I'd fool around with the PhoenixBios on this emachines. I remember there was a "Load Optimized Settings" button in there and things like that. What sort of things would I need to be changing?
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January 2, 2011 8:03:00 PM

Well let's hope that you can get it up and running.The manual that comes with the Motherboard will most likely describe a bunch of the BIOS settings.Gigabyte is pretty good about that.
As long as you can make it work you will be O.K.
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January 5, 2011 2:30:49 PM

jj463rd said:
Well let's hope that you can get it up and running.The manual that comes with the Motherboard will most likely describe a bunch of the BIOS settings.Gigabyte is pretty good about that.
As long as you can make it work you will be O.K.


K the package came a little early and ended up here on Tuesday. Due to circumstances I actually started at like 1 am on wednesday. So I had a bit of a headache as I tried doing this. Pretty sure the morning that I started I put in everything correctly except these wires that said like power sw and power led. So I figured that they were wired to the power button by the direction they were wired to. So I go to put these wires into a designated area (front panel I think) and realize you can put them in many different ways. I put them in in an organized manner, turned on the computer and it didn't turn on. So I gave up, and went to bed at 4. I woke up at 10:30. I felt the urge to fix a possible problem with the power sw wire. I found a diagram on the internet of how one could place a power sw into all these optional spots. I did so. Turned it on. Then was worried by how quiet the machine was. All seems to be good and im certainly impressed by the hardware and how quiet it is. The power led wire doesn't seem to work when I plug it in, but that doesn't bother me too much.

I'll keep rolling with the installation process and see how it goes.
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