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Possible damage to mobo or cpu?

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  • Asus
  • Computer
  • CPUs
  • Motherboards
Last response: in Motherboards
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January 18, 2011 3:23:28 AM

Ok, so had my computer working decently fine, but the CPU kept overheating like mad, even at idle, with nothing happening it would hit 80 C, I tried reapplying thermal paste and re-sitting the heatsink and fan, id boot up, its at 32 C, ok, then after about a half hour or so its doubled to 64 C, then it still hits about 70 C on idle, So I get pissed and decide to get a new heatsink and fan, instead went for CPU liquid cooling, I grabbed this (http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/en/eco.html) So I installed it, no leaks or anything like that, went to boot up the computer, and computer wont boot, no POST no BIOS, no nothing, fans are spinning, dvd drive is going, fans on the coolit rad are on, but nothing to screen. I've had a recent problem with a motherboard (its a new one now) ... does it sound possible, that I may have tightened down the cooling unit over the CPU too tightly? thus causing damage to the mobo or even the CPU? is that even possible to overtighten to a point causing damage? specs are:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700
Asus P5KPL-AM EPU
Coolit ECO A.L.C.
4GB RAM
nvidia Geforce 9800 GTX+


I know the graphics card is not the issue, as I have tried swapping it out with a different card to no effect, and also if i try booting up with no card in at all, i dont even get any error beeps from the mobo. Any help would be much appreciated here, I JUST got the computer up and running last month, and now I have this problem again. Sorry if this is a little long winded, but thanks for any help or advice.

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a b Ĉ ASUS
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January 18, 2011 11:52:32 AM

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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January 18, 2011 2:52:34 PM

Thank you very much to the both of you for your replies. So I've tried going thru powering on with just the mobo cpu and cooling installed, and i hear to beeps, case speaker is connected and all. So i guess I'm left to assume that the most likely thing now is that the mobo was damaged, I probably dropped a little screwdriver on the damned thing in the wrong spot or something, or, i guess its the over tightening of the liquid cooling module over the CPU ... so if thats the case, which is more likely to have been damaged, the mobo, or the CPU? right now I'm thinking the mobo, cause it seems to be giving me the same issues it did last month when I just replaced the mobo :(  lol

thanks again guys for your help here
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January 23, 2011 7:47:17 AM

So I replaced the Motherboard .... and still the same thing ... so now I guess it looks like it IS the power supply, based on the suggestions given, because I've swapped graphics cards and had no difference, so looks like I've gotta in myself a new power supply ... this really is a bitch to get taken care of while Living in another country, lol
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January 27, 2011 2:11:57 PM

johnzorz said:
Thank you very much to the both of you for your replies. So I've tried going thru powering on with just the mobo cpu and cooling installed, and i hear to beeps, case speaker is connected and all. So i guess I'm left to assume that the most likely thing now is that the mobo was damaged, I probably dropped a little screwdriver on the damned thing in the wrong spot or something, or, i guess its the over tightening of the liquid cooling module over the CPU ... so if thats the case, which is more likely to have been damaged, the mobo, or the CPU? right now I'm thinking the mobo, cause it seems to be giving me the same issues it did last month when I just replaced the mobo :(  lol

thanks again guys for your help here



Hey firend, Mr. JSC has a good tips.

I jus want give u a new tip: Try chancge your PSU, maybe when yuo power on the system, the real cuerrent it is not appropiated., no good.
YOu explain change mobo, but never change de PSU.

Recently i've check out silimlar porblems whit P4 systems, bue alway found the power supplie not so good works, 'couse electrolitics filter spark leaks.
I prefer change SPU.
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January 30, 2011 1:42:03 AM

thanks all for you help and advice on here, so it turns out that the problem was the PSU, got a new one and im back up and running again! Thanks again for you help, you guys rock!
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February 6, 2011 2:42:33 AM

Best answer selected by johnzorz.
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