Baking your 8800gtx main board
Last response: in Graphics & Displays
Ok so it turns out that XFX "Double Lifetime Warranty" is not worth anything in the UK!!! We get a mere 2 years! Grrrrr!!!!
My card is out of warranty, XFX have suggested helping me in selecting and buying another, cheeky sods, so there is really no where to go. Like I want to spend another £500 with them on a card that lasts a couple of years.
Anyway, I have read of a number of people having exactly the same issue, () with corrupt characters pre-post and in BIOS setup, and lines appearing on the Windows boot up screen.
They have suggested stripping the card down and baking the mainboard at 195 degrees C for 9 minutes, to cause the solder connection to re-fuse.
Has anyone else tried this with any success?
Obviously last resort, but that is where I am.
My card is out of warranty, XFX have suggested helping me in selecting and buying another, cheeky sods, so there is really no where to go. Like I want to spend another £500 with them on a card that lasts a couple of years.
Anyway, I have read of a number of people having exactly the same issue, () with corrupt characters pre-post and in BIOS setup, and lines appearing on the Windows boot up screen.
They have suggested stripping the card down and baking the mainboard at 195 degrees C for 9 minutes, to cause the solder connection to re-fuse.
Has anyone else tried this with any success?
Obviously last resort, but that is where I am.
More about : baking 8800gtx main board
the method works in some cases, namely when the solder interconnections have cracked. But 195C is too low*, cranck it up to 240-250C to melt the solder joints properly. If you like you can 'preheat' the card up to 195C for couple of minutes and then increase the temp to 240C for few minutes, depending how fast the oven reaches that temperature. And if possible use the convection fans in full blast to make the heat transfer faster. Typical components used in electronics can withstand temperatures up to 260C, so dont overheat the thing. It would be advisable to have some sort of temperature meter in there as well.
*if the card is pre-RoHS, ie contains tin-lead solder with melting temperature 183C, 195 would be enough. But lead-free RoHS compatible solders have melting temperatures around 220C.
and there are lots of threads about succesfull repairs over the net.
And dont worry, I know what I'm talkin about, MSc in electronics production
*if the card is pre-RoHS, ie contains tin-lead solder with melting temperature 183C, 195 would be enough. But lead-free RoHS compatible solders have melting temperatures around 220C.
and there are lots of threads about succesfull repairs over the net.
And dont worry, I know what I'm talkin about, MSc in electronics production
I am still absolutely amazed.
Thanks to all the author of articles I read over various forums, and to Kari for the reply, I bucked up the courage as the warranty is out, so it either kill or cure, and I am ecstatic cos it cured.
I put my apron on, got out my screwdriver and stripped the cooling off the card, and baked in a pre-heated oven at 235 degrees C for 8-8.5 minutes.
My card is working again.
Saved me a packet.
Thanks again from a very happy gamer.
If your warranty is in get it replaced by the reseller or the manufacturer, else I would highly recommend baking your card. :-)
RESULT!!!!!!
Thanks to all the author of articles I read over various forums, and to Kari for the reply, I bucked up the courage as the warranty is out, so it either kill or cure, and I am ecstatic cos it cured.
I put my apron on, got out my screwdriver and stripped the cooling off the card, and baked in a pre-heated oven at 235 degrees C for 8-8.5 minutes.
My card is working again.
Saved me a packet.
Thanks again from a very happy gamer.
If your warranty is in get it replaced by the reseller or the manufacturer, else I would highly recommend baking your card. :-)
RESULT!!!!!!
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soundefx said:
I hope that you are saving for your new card because when it is time to go, it will, and no amount of baking will help.Yes am already planning and saving for the next build, had this machine for 3.5 years, but its still doing all I want it too and playing all the games I currently play so no need at this precise moment.
flyinfinni said:
but still- just shows that those cards were not manufactured properly if their solder joints are cracking.anyways... it's likely the card wont last for long as mentioned already by others, there are plenty of other failure mechanisms going on in there, and even if this repair method fixes some, it will likely worsen some others.
But I'm glad to hear it worked again, even if it is only a temporary fix.
I understand the physics of the solder joints- I'm an electrical engineer after all:-) However- the 8800 series boards are the only ones I've heard of to have this particular failure and fix, and it seems to me there is some problem either with manufacturing process or design that causes this type of failure before it really should. I'm sure there are other cards that fail this way, but not, seemingly, in the same quantities and time frame as the 8800 series. Plenty of people have and use their cards much longer than the 2-3 years that these 8800's fail in. Maybe its just something thats been found on the 8800s and other fail the same and just haven't been fixed the same way. But yeah- anyway- thats just how I see it from what I've seen and read.
flyinfinni said:
I understand the physics of the solder joints- I'm an electrical engineer after all:-) However- the 8800 series boards are the only ones I've heard of to have this particular failure and fix, and it seems to me there is some problem either with manufacturing process or design that causes this type of failure before it really should. I'm sure there are other cards that fail this way, but not, seemingly, in the same quantities and time frame as the 8800 series. Plenty of people have and use their cards much longer than the 2-3 years that these 8800's fail in. Maybe its just something thats been found on the 8800s and other fail the same and just haven't been fixed the same way. But yeah- anyway- thats just how I see it from what I've seen and read.I agree, my 8800 GTS died just under 2 years into its life and it seems to be happening to quite a few people.
Nice Scrag-Meister. I still love that baking a board can make it work again, especially when we are all so worried about our hardware overheating:-)
Dark- exactly too many of them failing the same way right around the 2 year mark for it not to be something inherent in the design or build of the board.
Dark- exactly too many of them failing the same way right around the 2 year mark for it not to be something inherent in the design or build of the board.
Any one still remember when most ICs were made at or close to M spec or better?
They could have done better with this generation as with most and as usual they skimped on cooling allowing for hot spots in the VRM to even the core it's self. For some who come into the profession/hobby of PC repair still come across hardware that is decades old and yet functions as the day it was taken out of the box.
They could have done better with this generation as with most and as usual they skimped on cooling allowing for hot spots in the VRM to even the core it's self. For some who come into the profession/hobby of PC repair still come across hardware that is decades old and yet functions as the day it was taken out of the box.
flyinfinni said:
Yup- there are plenty of electronics that work consistently forever. Part of the problem is that today, manufacturers want you to upgrade and spend more money, so they don't focus so much on making things last.Correct, not to many have seen a working TV from the 50s with all original parts except for a few caps. I miss the quality American and European electronic manufacturing every thing even the cheap crappy stuff is quality by today's standards. Just like cars every thing else is just the bottom line sigh.
builderbobftw said:
Well, THey could have an all black decor and a wood pannled fridge...But still a waste.
My cousin is ugly, but we didn't throw her out whne she was born....
OMG
........Wants to throw out government due to it being fool of bottom feeding scum sucking criminals and stink to high heaven when rest of country might as well be botanical garden.
My friend baked his 8800 gtx 5 months ago and it still works strong. That artifact problem is a case of weak or not enough solder just heating up and then cooling causing it to crack. I just bake mine yesterday for 10 mins and the card is working like brand new. I also have an 8800 gtx. Nvidia forever thats all i have to say.
Ah.. I now understand why nvidia makes their cards run hot. It is so that it 'bakes' itself, hence, fixes itself.
Nvidia, you sly company you.....
All this time we are trying to keep our cards cool while they should be run hot, with dust bunnies surrounding them to keep all the heat in. This might make the card run for years to come.
Nvidia, you sly company you.....
All this time we are trying to keep our cards cool while they should be run hot, with dust bunnies surrounding them to keep all the heat in. This might make the card run for years to come.
Since when is 250w max TPD too much for an enthusiast, even 750w x 3 only requires a really good PSU.
If it really mattered, no one would overclock their CPUs, RAM, or GPUs and no one would ever dare do anything demanding on their PCs because it would simply use too much power.
Sure the GTX 480 would be a much better product if it used less power, but common I don't even look twice at 250w.
If it really mattered, no one would overclock their CPUs, RAM, or GPUs and no one would ever dare do anything demanding on their PCs because it would simply use too much power.
Sure the GTX 480 would be a much better product if it used less power, but common I don't even look twice at 250w.
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yeah it might have something to do with the physical size/design or material choices...or something else



