Freezing and boot to black screen

Im having a strange problem with my PC. The computer will freeze completely for long periods of time, then come back. When booting it will take forever to boot, and still do the freezing problem.

I thought it was a virus. I ran a full scan, found some, but the problem still was there. I ran a full defrag of the drive. After that the problem was fixed for a few days.

Later the problem came back! Finally I just reformatted. Unfortunetly it still takes forever to boot, and it boots to a black screen (no windows at all).

I swapped the memory sticks around, and made sure their timing was correct, and it still is happening.

Is this a hard-drive problem? Can anyone help? Thank you in advance :D
9 answers Last reply
More about freezing boot black screen
  1. Go thru this list ... very good chance it may fix or shed usefull light.
  2. The computer was working for 5 months before this happened. Most of the items on that list I checked and do not apply. :(
  3. It was in fact the Hard-drive. I swapped in a spare drive and re-formatted, fixed the problem. Defective/damaged drive was the culprit.
  4. please ... the exact model of your hdd and the approx date purchased?? ... for our stats.

    = thanks for your report ! =
  5. Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

    Link to the product:
  6. I'll bet u the cost of a drive that NObody, here recommended the GREEN.

    = Thanks for your report ! =
  7. Nope they didnt :P It had great reviews on the site though, and I have used Western digital for 3 previous builds in the past. Are the Green series known for faults? I just chalked this up to a random hardware failure.
  8. They're great home file storage drives, but constant spin ups and spin downs as a primary OS drive definitely ups the wear and tear. This isn't to say an early death is normal, but there's more margin for that happening with more use (as with any hard drive). They're also usually a lower RPM drive, which means higher read/write latency.

    It may be that the drive is perfectly fine and you got a nasty boot sector virus, which can stick around through multiple formats, especially if you're using the Windows utility and choosing NTFS (Quick) during your reformat. Something like WipeDrive will do a thorough wipe that should knock out any nasty boot sector issues before you run the Windows install. I'm sure there are free alternatives out there that will work just as well, but most of my experience is with WipeDrive.

    After that, I'd throw the drive in your system as a secondary and run chkdsk on it to see how many (if any) bad sectors are on the drive, and elect to fix them. Drive wiping software should perform this check, and if it does you can skip this step entirely. You can do this by right-clicking the drive in My Computer and going to Properties > Tools. If it checks out, I wouldn't hesitate using it as a media / file storage drive.

    You may also want to run Active@ Disk Monitor to check out SMART drive errors.

    Call me old school, but IMO the best OS drive is going to be lower capacity (80gb - 160gb) and at least 7,200 RPM. You can go SSD if you would like, but it's too rich for my blood and a couple ms difference in reads / writes after initial boot isn't worth the cost at this point. It'll be a different story when costs go down on them.
  9. I don't have enough stats to pass judgement ... I'll just say that there are several drives (lines) that I would prefer to the greens AND that I have seen "some" (a few) recent probs with them.

    I think the REAL issue is that ANY 5400RPM drive is gonna choke (these days), if you ask it to do any "live work" ... They (all 5400s) should be relegated to deep archives and off-site rotating backups, n such.

    = Al =
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