My first build. Core i5?

This will be my first build. I have helped out with a few builds though.

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Over the next 6 months!! :lol:

BUDGET RANGE: Nothing exceeding £800

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Light HD video editing, photoshop and light gaming

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers.

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: Amazon UK, other leading sites and retail stores

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: UK, England

PARTS PREFERENCES: Intel processor. USB3 if its future proof?

OVERCLOCKING: Most likely NO.

SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Probably not.

MONITOR RESOLUTION: Currently 1366x768, but most likely dual 1920x180 in the future

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Here is a list of parts I rustled up. I would like to reduce the price further if possible!


Intel i5 720 2.66 Quad £155
Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD3 mobo £116
CM-690 II Advanced Case £80
4GB DDR3 RAM – Corsair Dominator £123
HD5770 1GB £131
Samsung F3 1TB HDD £60
Corsair TX650w PSU £85
Sony 24x Internal DVDRW £13

TOTAL COST: £763

NOT INCLUDING OS!

So this is a tad out of my price range, although I can upgrade over time if I buy slightly cheaper PSU or GPU etc. But remember I need video editing. Also Cheaper RAM maybe. Thanks very much :D
42 answers Last reply
More about build core
  1. You could look at the Antec 300 Illusion and Antec Earthwatts 650 as cheaper alternatives. Corsair RAM is expensive, take a look at the G.Skill Ripjaw line.
  2. Or go with a cheaper Phenom II 955/AM3 motherboard combo.
  3. Transmaniacon said:
    You could look at the Antec 300 Illusion and Antec Earthwatts 650 as cheaper alternatives. Corsair RAM is expensive, take a look at the G.Skill Ripjaw line.


    So is the performance the same or similar? And what about the heatspread thing? I was looking at the cheap crucial RAM but there are nothing to do with cooling on them.

    I was thinking about the Zalman z7 Plus. Any good?
  4. Also could someone please send me a link to the RIPJAW Ram needed for the i5 on amazon uk? Or any other RAM that you find cheap and suitable? Thanks!
  5. Tom's actually did an article today comparing various brands of 4GB DDR3 RAM kits. G.Skill was their pick for best performance/value, and they are very popular among posters here. I use G.Skill RAM, and always recommend it. The Ripjaw series has heat spredders just like the rest, look for something with CL (Cas Latency) of 7 or 8 (Lower is faster).

    The Zalman has some good reviews on Newegg, but it's always best to take those with a grain of salt. I looks pretty roomy and has enough fans for solid airflow. I would still recommend the Antec 300 Illusion, its got a solid track record, and math tells us it has better air flow.
  6. Ok thanks! :) So how about the PSU? The one I listed seems to be very commonly used and does well in reviews. Should I stick with it or look into a cheaper variation? I couldnt find the earthwatts on amazon. Any other suggestions or is the corsair fine ?
  7. Do I even need 650W with the list of parts I suggested? I have seen similar builds done using 450W psu's? Im no expert though, thats why I'm here!
  8. How would this build compare to this dell? Its cheaper and seems to have better specification.

    Inspiron™ 580 MT(D005827)

    Add to Basket

    Intel® Core™ i5 Processor 750 (2.66GHz, 8MB)
    Genuine Windows® 7 Home Premium 64bit - English
    Display Not Included
    ATI Radeon™ HD 5450 1GB DDR3 graphics
    6144MB Dual Channel DDR3 [3x2048] Memory
    1TB (7200rpm) SATA Hard Drive
    DVD +/- RW Drive (read/write CD & DVD) with DVD Burn software
    1 year of coverage included with your PC

    Price £629

    http://www1.euro.dell.com/uk/en/home/Desktops/inspiron-580/pd.aspx?refid=inspiron-580&s=dhs&cs=ukdhs1&~oid=uk~en~20211~inspiron-580_d005827_beta~~
  9. The graphics card on that Dell is much much worse. It's an HTPC card, and while it might work ok on your current monitor, it won't be capable for gaming on a newer monitor with a higher resolution.

    The real problem with the build is that you don't know who is manufacturing the RAM, the motherboard, the hard drive, the power supply, etc.

    The reason regulars on this forum aren't interested in pre-built computers is because typically those businesses cut corners on some of the less-visible parts, such as the power supply, RAM, and hard drives. This doesn't make them bad people, but it does mean that the parts may not be as good as if you bought them yourself and built the computer on your own.
  10. coldsleep said:
    The graphics card on that Dell is much much worse. It's an HTPC card, and while it might work ok on your current monitor, it won't be capable for gaming on a newer monitor with a higher resolution.

    The real problem with the build is that you don't know who is manufacturing the RAM, the motherboard, the hard drive, the power supply, etc.

    The reason regulars on this forum aren't interested in pre-built computers is because typically those businesses cut corners on some of the less-visible parts, such as the power supply, RAM, and hard drives. This doesn't make them bad people, but it does mean that the parts may not be as good as if you bought them yourself and built the computer on your own.


    I understand, very good point. So would my build be faster then despite less RAM? Or just more upgradable and longer lasting?
  11. I wouldn't get anything under 500 watts, having the 650 watt PSU gives you a little breathing room, should you upgrade to a better GPU down the road.

    DONT buy that Dell, the GPU is not better than what you have, the parts are going to be from less reputable brands, just stay away.

    You can look at PSUs from Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, SilverStone, and PC Power & Cooling. Any of those will make very good PSUs, just look for the 80+ and Active PFC specifications.
  12. For most people, and for gaming, >4GB of RAM is useless. Your RAM is likely going to be much faster, more reliable, and will stay cooler. Don't let those bigger numbers trick you.
  13. Transmaniacon said:
    For most people, and for gaming, >4GB of RAM is useless. Your RAM is likely going to be much faster, more reliable, and will stay cooler. Don't let those bigger numbers trick you.


    Thanks for clarifying!
  14. Transmaniacon is precisely right. Right now, there's no need for more than 4 GB for gaming (or 6 GB if you go with socket 1366 to support triple-channel).

    Actually, I didn't even see that the Dell came with 6 GB. That might actually decrease performance a little, as the memory would be running in single-channel, rather than the dual-channel mode that the i5 prefers.
  15. coldsleep said:
    Transmaniacon is precisely right. Right now, there's no need for more than 4 GB for gaming (or 6 GB if you go with socket 1366 to support triple-channel).

    Actually, I didn't even see that the Dell came with 6 GB. That might actually decrease performance a little, as the memory would be running in single-channel, rather than the dual-channel mode that the i5 prefers.


    Wow, I see how you mean. My current Acer PC is a Phenom quad core, 4gb ram. But acer decided it would be a good idea to install 32bit vista, so it only recognises just over 3gb of the RAM. And the software supplied for blu-ray playback is appalling!
  16. Solid6611 said:
    Wow, I see how you mean. My current Acer PC is a Phenom quad core, 4gb ram. But acer decided it would be a good idea to install 32bit vista, so it only recognises just over 3gb of the RAM. And the software supplied for blu-ray playback is appalling!


    If you bought it about 3 years ago, Vista 64-bit was pretty appalling back then, so most companies were selling machines with 32-bit and the option to upgrade to 64-bit. It was probably a better business decision for them to tell people, well, whatever they chose to in order to get them to accept missing a chunk of memory rather than have a ton of customers experiencing the instability problems that 64-bit Vista was having early on.

    I'm running 4 GB of RAM and Vista 32-bit on a gaming laptop simply because I haven't had (until just this week) a new machine to be my primary. Thank goodness I can wipe it after I get my data transferred.
  17. coldsleep said:
    If you bought it about 3 years ago, Vista 64-bit was pretty appalling back then, so most companies were selling machines with 32-bit and the option to upgrade to 64-bit. It was probably a better business decision for them to tell people, well, whatever they chose to in order to get them to accept missing a chunk of memory rather than have a ton of customers experiencing the instability problems that 64-bit Vista was having early on.

    I'm running 4 GB of RAM and Vista 32-bit on a gaming laptop simply because I haven't had (until just this week) a new machine to be my primary. Thank goodness I can wipe it after I get my data transferred.


    No, It was bought around 1 year ago! Because its small form factor the cooling is terrible and the quad core is weak!
  18. UPDATE!

    Using all of your suggestions, I have created an updated list. :D But I want to go cheaper still! Please take a look and see if I can get a cheaper product. I am still unsure about the graphics card, I have to do HD video editing but is the one I showed too OTT? :lol:

    And remember, I can easily upgrade components over the life of the PC! I want this to last me a few years!


    Intel i5 720 2.66 Quad.................... £155
    Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD3 mobo......... £116
    Antec 300 case............................... £45
    4GB DDR3 RAM – G.Skill Ripjaw....... £107
    HD5770 1GB................................... £131
    Samsung F3 1TB HDD..................... £60
    Corsair TX650w PSU....................... £85
    Sony 24x Internal DVDRW.............. £13

    Total cost: £712
  19. For video editing, the i5 is better suited than the AMD offerings. The main performance comes from your CPU, just about any GPU today will display HD content with ease. You could save a little money dropping down to the HD5670, it would handle light gaming fine, and be more than enough for you're video editing needs.

    There is not much else I would recommend trimming down, you could go with a cheaper PSU, the Corsair 400CX would power your system with the HD5670 fine, and is $34.99 w/ a $15 MIR.
  20. 1) How about the CoolerMaster 335 case? Its cheaper still and I like their cases. Would it be ok for this build?

    2) I found a sapphire hd5670 on amazon for £98, so that has brought the price down a bit. It doesnt look as cool because it has an exposed heatsink and no decorative casing, but function over form right ? :sol:

    3) I'm still very confused around the power supply. How powerful does it need to be? Say if I upgraded to an i7 in the future. What power supply would handle the upgrade? :??:
  21. 4) How about the HDD? I went for the Samsung F3 because of good reviews, however it is not very popular and the common choise seems to be western digital caviar etc. Is there a reason for this? I want a 1TB hard drive but not sure which is good in terms of performance.
  22. 1) Thats a fine case, definitely a good budget choice.

    2) The HD5670 will perform less than the HD5770 obviously, but will still be alright for light gaming. Certain companies might still offer nicer aftermarket coolers on the lower end GPUs, HIS and Saphire may have versions like that. To be honest though, as long as there is some heatsink, you're fine. You won't even see it in the case anyway =P

    3) I would say stick to a good 400 watt PSU, like the Corsair I mentioned in the previous post, or one of the Antec Earthwatt PSUs, like the EA-430. Unless you are doing major overclocking, switch to an i7 would not make much of a different power wise. If you do upgrade the GPU though, you may want to upgrade the PSU as well. For this build though, that Corsair is perfect.
  23. The Samsung Spinpoint F3 is a great choice, it is one of the fastest platter drives out right now, and very silent too. The Caviar black is older, slower, and louder. Stick with the Samsung.
  24. Solid6611 said:
    4) How about the HDD? I went for the Samsung F3 because of good reviews, however it is not very popular and the common choise seems to be western digital caviar etc. Is there a reason for this? I want a 1TB hard drive but not sure which is good in terms of performance.


    WD has brand recognition, that's all.

    The top performing 1 TB drives are (in no specific order):
    Samsung Spinpoint F3
    WD Caviar Black WD1002FAEX model (and only that model - the model ending in FALS is slower)
    Seagate 7200.12

    The WD1002FAEX is SATA III and costs about US$30 more than the other drives. Unfortunately, mechanical hard drives don't reach the SATA II bandwidth limit, so adding SATA III seems to be more of a marketing gimmick, at least in my opinion. There may be a good reason for having it, but I can't figure out what it is.

    EDIT: There is at least one, probably more than one power supply calculator in the system build stickies. I'd suggest checking them out, though they generally tend to give you a slightly higher number than you really need. PSU is primarily determined by the graphics card you have. ATI recommends 450W or more, though it might be possible to get by with a little less, assuming a quality unit. It is likely that ATI's estimates include a little bit of headroom/account for weak power supplies.
  25. coldsleep said:
    WD has brand recognition, that's all.

    The top performing 1 TB drives are (in no specific order):
    Samsung Spinpoint F3
    WD Caviar Black WD1002FAEX model (and only that model - the model ending in FALS is slower)
    Seagate 7200.12

    The WD1002FAEX is SATA III and costs about US$30 more than the other drives. Unfortunately, mechanical hard drives don't reach the SATA II bandwidth limit, so adding SATA III seems to be more of a marketing gimmick, at least in my opinion. There may be a good reason for having it, but I can't figure out what it is.


    Uh, the 7200.12 is the fastes mech drive period for games/media apps.

    IT all depends on useage
  26. builderbobftw said:
    Uh, the 7200.12 is the fastes mech drive period for games/media apps.

    IT all depends on useage


    Congratulations, bob. You fail at reading.

    I said: "The top performing 1 TB drives are (in no specific order):"

    One might grasp from that statement that all three are relatively close in performance, edging each other out in the different benchmarks.

    Or, I guess, you could assume that I was knocking the Seagate drives. Your call.
  27. Will that be OK for my build with the updated specs? It seems very cheap for 600W psu. Will this handle upgrades?
  28. coldsleep said:
    Congratulations, bob. You fail at reading.

    I said: "The top performing 1 TB drives are (in no specific order):"

    One might grasp from that statement that all three are relatively close in performance, edging each other out in the different benchmarks.

    Or, I guess, you could assume that I was knocking the Seagate drives. Your call.


    Sorry Mate.

    But, Jeesh.

    Calm down.

    Deep breaths.

    Honest mistake.
  29. OCZ makes a solid PSU, I have heard lots of good things. The stealthstream would be fine.
  30. Solid6611 said:


    THat is NOT a good PSU.

    I would buck up for maybe a Corsair HX.
  31. I would say its a decent middle-ground PSU. The Modstream line is better, but I do agree, pay more for Corsair, its the best for a reason.
  32. I've heard many bad thigns baout OCZ

    THe 700W PSU is 35$ now, on sale, and you get what you pay for
  33. builderbobftw said:
    I've heard many bad thigns baout OCZ

    THe 700W PSU is 35$ now, on sale, and you get what you pay for


    If you see the rest of the post, I am english. I cant buy from overseas without high expenses. I'm not even sure which PSU you are referencing? I will probably stick with the original corsair then.
  34. I would do a HX from Corsair.

    Not a TX.

    THe HX is better quality+modualrity.
  35. builderbobftw said:
    I would do a HX from Corsair.

    Not a TX.

    THe HX is better quality+modualrity.


    So what does that mean for me and this build? The TX looks fine to me and the other posters, even if a tad pricey. The HX is just for dual graphics cards really ive heard?
  36. Not realy.

    The HX if for people that want a nice PSU that can provide high effeciancy, low rippling, and modularity.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139010&Tpk=hx750

    Not that expensive
  37. Corsair HX is modular (only plug in the cables you need, the rest can sit in a box in your closet); Corsair TX has all the cables sticking out and you need to tie the extras down or hide them somewhere inside the case. Both are very stable PSUs. HX tends ot be more expensive for the wattage because of the more expensive modular cables. If your case has a bottom mounted PSU, then the extra cables can generally sit on the bottom of the case and modularity isnt as big of an issue.
  38. THe HX750 is 110$ after rebate+promo
  39. Still think that I will get the cheaper tx. And $110 dollars means nothing to me, I'm english. :sarcastic:
  40. dndhatcher said:
    Corsair HX is modular (only plug in the cables you need, the rest can sit in a box in your closet); Corsair TX has all the cables sticking out and you need to tie the extras down or hide them somewhere inside the case. Both are very stable PSUs. HX tends ot be more expensive for the wattage because of the more expensive modular cables. If your case has a bottom mounted PSU, then the extra cables can generally sit on the bottom of the case and modularity isnt as big of an issue.


    Much more helpful thanks. Seen as I'm a noob this helped me allot. I am still deciding but will see what I can afford down the line!
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