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Is this i7 build ready for me to order?

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June 19, 2010 4:30:45 AM

Hi all,

I am about to order the bits for my first build and I'd like to idiot proof (yes, as a beginner I am the idiot) my list.

I need to order asap as, typically, it looks like my only means of access to the internet (this laptop) is about to die. OS issue I have been told, or maybe the hard drive.

The build:

CPU: Intel Corei7 920 D0 SLBEJ Bloomfield 45nm, 2.66 GHz, QPI 4.8GT/s, 8MB Cache, 20x Ratio, 130W

With Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Rev.2
Scan today deals, Mix it - ₤312
http://www.scan.co.uk/TodayOnly/Index.aspx

RAM:
Patriot Viper Extreme Performance 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C8 1600MHz Triple Channel Kit - ₤141
https://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/Pat...

Or

TR3X6G1600C9 - 6GB (3x2GB) Corsair XMS3, DDR3 PC3-12800 (1600) Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 9-9-9-24, 1.65V - 142
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/plus-6GB-%283x2GB%29-Cor...

Does latency matter in i7 memory?

Also, could you do me the favour/favor of checking the memory compatibility. My laptop now no longer allows me to open the Adobe reader program to check the compatibility list I downloaded from the Asus website. Please.

GPU: HD 5850 – c. ₤260
Haven’t found this yet. Am trying to find a vapor-x version.
If I cannot find an HD5850 vapor-x I will get this HD 5830 at a much cheaper price - ₤165:
http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?ProductId=35791

PSU: Antec TruePower New Blue Modular 750W - ₤83
http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?ProductId=30677

CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900A-LED PWM Socket 1156 1366, 775, AM2+, 754, 939 Tunnel Flower Cooler - ₤46
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/167505

HDD x 2: Samsung Spinpoint F3 (HD103SJ) x 2 - ₤99
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ss1TB-Samsung-HD103SJ-Sp...

Am planning to use RAID to have one back up the other – as told to me by my friend. Would like to learn all about RAID in doing so.

ODD – DVD writer: Samsung Black SH-S223 22X - ₤14
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/145450

or at aria
https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/CD%2FDVD+Dri...

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium OEM 64-bit 1pk - ₤79
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Windows-7-Home-Premium-6...

Case: Lian-Li PC-B25FWB (with window) - ₤171
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/Lian-Li-B25FWB-Black-Mid...

Monitor: 24" Viewsonic VA2413WM Widescreen LCD 1920 x 1080, 16:9, 5MS -₤134
http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?ProductId=28572

Total: ₤1340 :gulp:

Could you please check this over as I would like to purchase in the next few hours.

I am thinking of buying a SSD, but which one? Is it better to buy one now or wait till the pricing is better? Will buying one later make life more difficult?

Any other ideas of things I must get? Or should get?

I really must buy this before my laptop dies.

Thanks ever so much for all your help.

Other items: do I need these?
Thermal compound
Anti-static mat (I have carpeted floors)
Anti-static wrist band

More about : build ready order

June 19, 2010 4:51:25 AM

The latency does matter in the i7, so the patriots are better.
I checked both the Gigabyte and Patriot websites and neither of them say that that memory is supported by the mobo. You might want to try and find some good ol' g.skill or something.

If you're gaming then I think you shouldn't be getting the 5830.

You might want to switch cpu coolers, but I'm not sure about pricing..

If you buy and SSD later for OS, then it would be time consuming to transfer/backup everything. Either get one now or don't bother is my recommendation (unless you don't mind all the work)

If the CPU's retail, then you don't need the thermal compound, since retail cpus come with some. If the CPU's OEM then you'll need thermal paste. You don't really need the anti-static stuff, but you can use it if you want the extra peace of mind. I worked on my pc on thin carpet without any anti static
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June 19, 2010 4:59:04 AM

Woohoo! The CPU says it's retail, so I won't need the thermal compound. I was dreading the idea of trying to be a perfectionist in that department.

Is this a good CPU cooler? Zalman CNPS10X Extreme 47UKP (only a touch more expensive)
https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...

I'm going to get scan's insurance in case I botch up the build so I suppose the anti-static stuff is over the top. However, my carpet is quite thick.

I'll try and find an alternative RAM selection and get back to you. Thanks.

Any ideas on a good SSD?
I'll come back with some of the ones with the best prices for an OCZ Vertex or Intel M-25.
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Related resources
June 19, 2010 5:22:46 AM

As i pointed out in your previous build your cooler choice is old technology check out the sockets it supports.
the newer Zalman's are far superior the Zalman CNPS10X Quiet the best Zalman imo.
Looking at your new supplier link and 1366 build if you don't plan on 4.0GHz.
https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...

And i would consider these over the Zalmans.
https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...
https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...

http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Heatsinks

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June 19, 2010 5:35:19 AM

with the thermal paste though, the stock thermal paste isn't that good. If you're willing to put that on and then put some better stuff on after doing some, then there's a giveaway that applies to the whole world for IC Diamond 24, which is a lot better than stock. Should put temps down a few degrees compared to stock if you're o'cing.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/258835-29-innovation-...
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June 19, 2010 6:08:19 AM

Sorry 'bout that. My laptop crashed!

I tried to find the old thread to quote your name Davcon - but I couldn't find it. Did the thread get closed?

I got my fan choices from quietpc.com as ideally I'd also like to make my pc as quiet as possible. Occasionally being loud is acceptable, but I hate the way the Xbox360 fan is so annoyingly loud. Are the ones you listed, Davcon, going to make the pc loud?

"Looking at your new supplier link and 1366 build if you don't plan on 4.0GHz. "

I don't quite understand? Do you mean that if I don't plan on OCing then I should look at the links you described?

The Zalman Extreme version of the one you linked in the previous build... I think I'd be very happy with that. It's annoying that scan doesn't seem to do any of the quietpc's recommended fans. I am trying to get as much as possible from scan.

https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...
for 47UKP, only a few UKP more than my original choice. Thanks.

I am very willing to learn about OCing but I'd probably do it just to see what kind of difference it would make. Then I would probably clock it down to a more normal OC speed. I have chosen to spend loads on a pc as I want it to last a good few years.

How difficult is it to put the thermal paste on? I read you have to be careful and try to put as thin a layer as possible. How would that be achieved?

If it's easy then I'd be happy to try over and over. So that diamond stuff may be just the fun learning I need. However I am still very much a beginner and would have to learn everything from scratch. Also, I really hope my laptop doesn't die else I would have virtually no chance of learning about any of this!

The whole reason am doing this is to learn. So if it will help to teach me more about these 'magic machines' then it's all good. I could easily have just gone and bought a ready-built pc but I have to admit that all this reading has been loads of fun.

right...gotta get back to looking at SDDs.

Is this one good for the price? on offer right now for 161UKP

http://www.scan.co.uk/product.aspx?ProductId=30370

Haven't read enough about SSDs yet though so I don't know about them. As far as I have read from other posts so far a good choice is to put my OS on it. If that's the case then surely I can do with a smaller one?

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June 19, 2010 6:11:37 AM

maybe a stupid question...how do I find out how many posts I have made?

Also, I don't think I'll be gaming other than the odd RTS. I have an Xbox360 and PS3 for most of that stuff. But don't know why but I prefer playing RTSs on my PC.

However, having the prospect to do a bit would be nice. I am tempted by the 5830 as it's so much cheaper, nearly 100UKP!

Still looking at RAM too - will try to find some G-skill. Thanks for looking it up Mark Heath.

What's more important? the speed (1333/10666, 1600/12800) or the latency?
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June 19, 2010 6:31:56 AM

GinZ said:
Sorry 'bout that. My laptop crashed!

I tried to find the old thread to quote your name Davcon - but I couldn't find it. Did the thread get closed?

I got my fan choices from quietpc.com as ideally I'd also like to make my pc as quiet as possible. Occasionally being loud is acceptable, but I hate the way the Xbox360 fan is so annoyingly loud. Are the ones you listed, Davcon, going to make the pc loud?

"Looking at your new supplier link and 1366 build if you don't plan on 4.0GHz. "

I don't quite understand? Do you mean that if I don't plan on OCing then I should look at the links you described?

The Zalman Extreme version of the one you linked in the previous build... I think I'd be very happy with that. It's annoying that scan doesn't seem to do any of the quietpc's recommended fans. I am trying to get as much as possible from scan.

https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Fans%2C+Heat...
for 47UKP, only a few UKP more than my original choice. Thanks.

I am very willing to learn about OCing but I'd probably do it just to see what kind of difference it would make. Then I would probably clock it down to a more normal OC speed. I have chosen to spend loads on a pc as I want it to last a good few years.

How difficult is it to put the thermal paste on? I read you have to be careful and try to put as thin a layer as possible. How would that be achieved?

If it's easy then I'd be happy to try over and over. So that diamond stuff may be just the fun learning I need. However I am still very much a beginner and would have to learn everything from scratch. Also, I really hope my laptop doesn't die else I would have virtually no chance of learning about any of this!

The whole reason am doing this is to learn. So if it will help to teach me more about these 'magic machines' then it's all good. I could easily have just gone and bought a ready-built pc but I have to admit that all this reading has been loads of fun.

right...gotta get back to looking at SDDs.

Is this one good for the price? on offer right now for 161UKP

http://www.scan.co.uk/product.aspx?ProductId=30370

Haven't read enough about SSDs yet though so I don't know about them. As far as I have read from other posts so far a good choice is to put my OS on it. If that's the case then surely I can do with a smaller one?

The old thread was the AMD build and was closed off and you were linking different retailers thats all.
All i was trying to say about the cpu cooler's was that the Hyper 212+ is an excellent cooler if you don't plan on extreme overclocking.
And the Zalman Quiet is also very good and known for it's silence.
Check out this website it's dedicated to quiet computing and the best imo.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article63-page1.html
It's not as hard as you may think to apply a heat-sink.
Make a new thread regarding thermal compound and heat-sink mounting when you're ready to do it.
You'll recieve plenty of help and opinions no doubt :) 
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June 19, 2010 7:05:58 AM

I got distracted by the Extreme version as it has blue LEDs on it. The review you posted says it has an LED fan so I thought I would change to that. However I cannot tell from either ebuyer or aria what colour the LED is, or whether their version even has an LED on it. The ebuyer version mentions a distinct blue piping, so I'll go for that.

I need to get this thing ordered before my laptop gives up. Plus I am getting mighty tired (stayed up overnight to get this ordered - but laptop is so glitchy it's taking forever and I have to keep closing windows just to not have it slow down or crash!)

Any ideas on a smaller but good SSD? Otherwise I'll just go for the Intel M. Expensive, and I fear it may be overkill, but it's 20UKP cheaper on scan atm.

thanks for the tips on the the thermal compound issue and heat-sink.

Just to clarify that I know (or don't know) what the heat-sink is. It's the small metal sheet on top of the CPU? or is the memory?

Ok, so I've added the SSD (via scan) and Zalman quiet CPU cooler (from aria or ebuyer). I'm trying to get everything from scan.

so far for RAM I've got....

Crucial CL7 1333 – 127UKP
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/159927

TR3X6G1333C7 - 6GB (3x2GB) Corsair XMS3 Classic, DDR3 PC3-10666 (1333) Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 7-7-7-20, 1.65V – 153UKP
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/6GB-%283x2GB%29-Corsair-...

G-Skill 6GB Ripjaws DDR3 PC12800-1600Mhz Cas8 Kit (3x2GB) – 149UKP
http://www.microdirect.co.uk/Home/Product/43956/G-Skill...

any suggestions on which is the best to go for?
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June 19, 2010 7:47:50 AM

I've also seen this for 170(!)UKP:
Corsair CL7 1600Mhz
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/6GB-%283x2GB%29-Corsair-...

but is it really worth 30UKP more than CL9 1333? It's tempting as it's with scan so I should be covered by their insurance if the installation goes wrong.

Oh and is it compatible?

"there's a giveaway that applies to the whole world for IC Diamond 24". I am not eligible as I have not been a member for six months :-(

Got any thermal compound suggestions? I would like to try it and learn.

thanks.
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June 19, 2010 12:49:14 PM

GinZ said:
I got distracted by the Extreme version as it has blue LEDs on it. The review you posted says it has an LED fan so I thought I would change to that. However I cannot tell from either ebuyer or aria what colour the LED is, or whether their version even has an LED on it. The ebuyer version mentions a distinct blue piping, so I'll go for that.

I need to get this thing ordered before my laptop gives up. Plus I am getting mighty tired (stayed up overnight to get this ordered - but laptop is so glitchy it's taking forever and I have to keep closing windows just to not have it slow down or crash!)

Any ideas on a smaller but good SSD? Otherwise I'll just go for the Intel M. Expensive, and I fear it may be overkill, but it's 20UKP cheaper on scan atm.

thanks for the tips on the the thermal compound issue and heat-sink.

Just to clarify that I know (or don't know) what the heat-sink is. It's the small metal sheet on top of the CPU? or is the memory?

Ok, so I've added the SSD (via scan) and Zalman quiet CPU cooler (from aria or ebuyer). I'm trying to get everything from scan.

so far for RAM I've got....

Crucial CL7 1333 – 127UKP
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/159927

TR3X6G1333C7 - 6GB (3x2GB) Corsair XMS3 Classic, DDR3 PC3-10666 (1333) Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 7-7-7-20, 1.65V – 153UKP
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/6GB-%283x2GB%29-Corsair-...

G-Skill 6GB Ripjaws DDR3 PC12800-1600Mhz Cas8 Kit (3x2GB) – 149UKP
http://www.microdirect.co.uk/Home/Product/43956/G-Skill...

any suggestions on which is the best to go for?

The two Antec tp 750w are identical except one has a blue led that's a personal choice.
Imo you could get by with a good 650w psu such as this
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/650W-Antec-True-Power-Ne...
As for a ssd Intel and OZC Vertex series are very good.
A heatsink cools your cpu most people add an aftermarket one cuz the stock Intel one has a loud fan.Most aftermarket coolers have a much quieter fan and can drop temps by as much as 20C.
Some DDR3 memory have heatspreaders which act like a heatsink to dissipate heat.
Your aftermarket heatsink will come with better quality thermal compound then Intel's stock HS paste.
And yes you qualify for the IC Diamond test which reads member for 6 months or 50+ post.
I sent my pm in a week ago and still no reply the guy must be on holiday or something.
But the contest is still active so apply asap
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June 19, 2010 1:45:35 PM

Quote:
I am not eligible as I have not been a member for six months :-(

not sure whether it's 50 posts or 6 months, but some people with 50 posts who have been there for less than 6 months have been accepted after they asked if they were eligible anyway, so give it a go ;) 
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June 19, 2010 3:52:46 PM

GinZ said:
I've also seen this for 170(!)UKP:
Corsair CL7 1600Mhz
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/6GB-%283x2GB%29-Corsair-...

but is it really worth 30UKP more than CL9 1333? It's tempting as it's with scan so I should be covered by their insurance if the installation goes wrong.

Oh and is it compatible?

"there's a giveaway that applies to the whole world for IC Diamond 24". I am not eligible as I have not been a member for six months :-(

Got any thermal compound suggestions? I would like to try it and learn.

thanks.

All your ram selections are good but i would personally go in the middle and choose one of the 1600MHz CL8 kits.
The Vipers or G.skills will perform nicely either kit is very nice and you won't be dissappointed.
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June 19, 2010 5:35:03 PM

Great thanks you two., I have posted my request and sent my address to the person in charge via private email.

I have also ordered my i7 920 D0 build and even managed to find an HD 5850 vapor-x. I love it when a plan comes together.

I roped a friend in to do some checking on the RAM. They managed to find on the website for Viper that it supports the GA-X58A-UD3R mobo and apparently the Gigabyte compatibility list was so short it was obviously not long enough for a thorough testing list. So I tried giving that a shot. let's see if it works.

Went with the Zalman CNPS10X Extreme version - only because I could be sure of the blue LEDs (yes it's my first decent PC and yes it has a window - I need to go through this superficial period). Plus it was much higher up on the list of quietpc's recommended quiet fans. Thanks Davcon for reminding me why I went there in the first place.

So how do I say that both of you gave the best answers? I do not want to have to get my lucky coin out for a flip.
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June 19, 2010 6:08:52 PM

GinZ said:
Great thanks you two., I have posted my request and sent my address to the person in charge via private email.

I have also ordered my i7 920 D0 build and even managed to find an HD 5850 vapor-x. I love it when a plan comes together.

I roped a friend in to do some checking on the RAM. They managed to find on the website for Viper that it supports the GA-X58A-UD3R mobo and apparently the Gigabyte compatibility list was so short it was obviously not long enough for a thorough testing list. So I tried giving that a shot. let's see if it works.

Went with the Zalman CNPS10X Extreme version - only because I could be sure of the blue LEDs (yes it's my first decent PC and yes it has a window - I need to go through this superficial period). Plus it was much higher up on the list of quietpc's recommended quiet fans. Thanks Davcon for reminding me why I went there in the first place.

So how do I say that both of you gave the best answers? I do not want to have to get my lucky coin out for a flip.

The EXTREME does NOT rate higher the Quiet does
quote from the review at SPCR
The CNPS10X line failed to impress us until we tested this Quiet version. The CNPS10X Quiet easily outpaced both the Flex and Extreme, especially with our reference fan at 7V. The wider fin spacing obviously gives it a big edge when paired with a low speed fan as that is the Quiet's most notable difference compared to the other members of the CNPS10X family.
It's your decision though i would buy the Quiet and add a quality blue LED fan for the cost difference if i wanted lighting.
http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=35791&vpn=FN-FW1....
http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=49975&vpn=120mm%...
Or any inside lit case fan for that matter.
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June 19, 2010 6:52:34 PM

GinZ said:

So how do I say that both of you gave the best answers? I do not want to have to get my lucky coin out for a flip.


You can only select one best answer. You also can only select a best answer in a question thread, not a discussion thread (which I believe your previous post was), so Silvune is out of luck on that thread.
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June 21, 2010 10:12:27 AM

Yes it is true, Silvune has helped me out to the max by answering my many, many, many questions. In fact this thread has entered its existence from my standing on the shoulders of the info provided by Silvune.

Is there any way of changing the other thread to a question (or many questions)? The amount of help Silvune gave me was quite astounding.
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June 21, 2010 11:38:07 AM

one more thing with the thermal paste. The IC Diamond stuff is supposed to be used in comparison with another paste, so that they can show it off. So you'll have to apply the thermal paste that you get from the cpu/cooler, record the temps, then take off the cpu cooler and swap the thermal paste.
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June 22, 2010 1:49:48 PM

thanks for the tip. I got my stuff today - can't see any thermal paste included with the CPU. Is it supposed to come with it?
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June 22, 2010 2:09:36 PM

err.. you said before that it was a retail - not OEM. It should've come with paste and a stock cooler if it's retail. :??: 
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June 22, 2010 3:12:53 PM

^+1 he's correct.
Just mount your aftermarket cooler with it's paste before you install the mobo in your case.
It's much easier that way.
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June 22, 2010 3:19:13 PM

Quote:
can't see any thermal paste included with the CPU.


confuses me a bit.. :??: 
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June 22, 2010 4:03:02 PM

Mark Heath said:
Quote:
can't see any thermal paste included with the CPU.


confuses me a bit.. :??: 

All i'm saying is if he received an oem cpu he has no choice but to install the aftermarket cooler.
To further clear things up i hope he reads this.
If the cpu is retail the paste is preapplied on the stock cooler he may not be aware of this and is looking for a tube.
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June 22, 2010 4:11:15 PM

hey, yes am a bit confused myself. I may have time to understand though as scan delivered the wrong case - it had no window. I offered for them to send me a side window when they have one but they said it would be a waste of my time if I had to remove everything as they might never get them in. Then I would have to uninstall it all and put it into the new case (I would have to buy it elsewhere).

Re the thermal paste. It did clearly say retail when advertised on the site (now am not so sure due to the wrong case being delivered). How can I tell whether it's retail or OEM from the i7 box?
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June 22, 2010 4:41:26 PM

Retail includes the stock cooler and cpu.
Oem is cpu only.
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June 22, 2010 4:53:17 PM

Thanks. This means I received the retail version. Does this mean I do not have to apply thermal paste?

And ah yes I should have read Mark Heath's post more carefully too. Whoops. Sorry Mark Heath.

I opened the Mugen 2 cpu cooler box and checked it out. Can't see any tube of thermal paste in there(as described in a review I am reading http://www.xsreviews.co.uk/reviews/cpu-coolers/scythe-m...). Is there supposed to be some? I went out and bought a generic thermal paste (brand: Spire) at a very cheap price of 3UKP. I read somewhere that a brand is not that important.

Since I am going to have to wait for a new case :fou:  to be delivered before I can start, do you recommend I get a quality thermal compound paste?

Can't believe I have to wait. Am itching to get started!
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Best solution

June 22, 2010 5:13:56 PM

The paste is on the bottom of the stock cooler in a pre-applied circle.
The Mugen 2 should include a plastic packet of thermal paste it's not in tube form.
The Scythe paste will be superior to the Spire.You only need to use the Scythe paste.
And yes there are big differences in thermal compound.
Your next big hurdle is too hope and pray you didn't get any defective products.
On my first build the cpu,hdd,and ram were faulty lol!
My second build was shipped with no defective parts.
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June 22, 2010 5:32:51 PM

Okay, thanks for letting me know about the paste being in a packet. It's a tiny packet but at least it's there.

And thanks too about the extra worry factor. I'll leave the worrying about the defective products until I get the proper case (still fuming about the lack of customer service from Scan - it's not rubbish, but they didn't try to make me happy!) Lol (praying at this very moment)

Edit - Scan still have no response to my situation (they only look to be working on it after I've called them today - nearly 24 hours after first bringing up the issue). They even declined my offer of accepting this case until they got a side panel in and just send me that or a new one to replace mine. Nor would they accept me to return the case until they have resolved their stock identification issue. I think I will buy it from OCUK.

If I buy the case from OCUK, is there anything I should also buy? Will the thermal paste from Mugen do or should I throw in a quality one?

Does anyone know whether the Scythe Mugen 2 will have any problems fitting in the Lian Li PC-B25F case?

edit- I've found an option to buy a side panel window elsewhere. So even though it pains me to let scan.co.uk keep my money I just want to get on and build this thing (and find out whether any parts are dead and be able to return them before 7 days pass).

My only issue now is whether I should still order a decent thermal compound. I have the Spire sp700 and the one supplied in the small sachet in the Mugen 2 box. Should I order an arctic silver 5 and pay through the nose for it?

This link says it works at 2.3 degrees worse than Arctic Silver 5.

http://www.hwreviewlabs.com/index.php?option=com_conten...
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June 24, 2010 1:58:40 PM

She lives! am only on the BIOS screen.

Got no beep at startup - is that ok? or not?

so far everything seems fine. Just reading on how to check my BIOS has recognised everything.

"The Scythe paste will be superior to the Spire.You only need to use the Scythe paste.
And yes there are big differences in thermal compound. "

I decided on using the Spire sp-700. Only for the fact that I don't know what compound the Scythe one is.

I am doing this so the comparison to the IC Diamond (I hope I'm getting a sample) will have a true comparison. All in the name of science!

Oh and +1 for warning me about the scythe mugen2 being a nightmare to mount. However I would recommend that kind of experience to anybody doing this for the experience.

It was definitely the longest and most frustrating part of the build. In fact I'm not sure it's tight enough right now but am way too tired to do the cpu cooler again today! It is a quiet machine.

Lian Li case + Mugen2 cooler = need baby width and piano length fingers. I used tools instead. This is no toolless installation but near enough.

Update: Yay! It would appear from my very newbie eyes that RAM, CPU and both hard drives have been recognised.

I would like to partition one of the drives and then put both hard drives in a RAID configuration so that one is mirroring the other.

How do I partition? Do I need to partition both HDDs so that they are of identical sizes in order to mirror each other?

Why must I aim so high?!

I will also eventually like to install Linux. I think I read something about it being good to use a partitioned drive and having dual boot? Any ideas or links?

Oh and I got a generic anti-virus. Does anyone know of the best (reasonably priced) anti-virus? Would hate this fresh build to be infested so soon :fear:

Should I make a new forum for this feedback?
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June 24, 2010 2:29:46 PM

Best answer selected by GinZ.
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June 24, 2010 3:54:52 PM

GinZ said:

I would like to partition one of the drives and then put both hard drives in a RAID configuration so that one is mirroring the other.

How do I partition? Do I need to partition both HDDs so that they are of identical sizes in order to mirror each other?


You need to RAID first, then partition after. If you try to RAID an existing drive, it will blow away all of the data on the drive.
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June 24, 2010 4:25:10 PM

Both drives are empty at the moment - I've built the new system I was interested in. What applies now?

Should I just run tests on the new system first or do the partition/RAID thing as I go along?

thanks for the input
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June 24, 2010 4:42:46 PM

I would boot into the BIOS, set up the RAID array, and then install the OS. You can set up the partition during the OS install, or you could do it afterwards.
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June 24, 2010 7:07:53 PM

Hi, my idea is to put the OS on the partitioned bit (say 40G). A pal explained that by doing that I could 'contain' Win7 better and not allow it to do its 'spreading all over the place thing'. The idea is that one day I will move the OS to the SSD(s) I intend to buy when the prices are better value.

My question is: how will I be able to install the OS onto the smaller partitioned bit?

(ooh! I saw the RAM speed setting in the BIOS - can't wait to tinker with that one day!)
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June 24, 2010 7:38:10 PM

Ok, this is how it should work.

1) Boot into the BIOS
2) Set up RAID 1
3) Reboot
4) Put in the OS disc
5) Start installing OS
6) During this step, it should ask you if you want to partition the disk
7) You may have to install RAID drivers prior to finishing the install, I don't know how good Win7 is at installing RAID drivers.
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June 25, 2010 10:14:42 AM

Thanks very much I will keep that for when I can get round to it. It will save me much time researching it.

Something much more urgent atm I'm afraid. My CPU temp is at 82 degrees C when in the BIOS screen. I'm looking into that right now

Am going to clean and redo the thermal paste in case I put too much on. Now where can I find some alcohol wipes? hmmm
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June 25, 2010 2:56:18 PM

82? Don't mean to sound.. mean, but is the cpu cooler itself installed properly?
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June 25, 2010 4:34:55 PM

No that's not mean imo - I am a total noob after all. Would it be a good idea to install the stock cooler to compare? hmm, sounds good to me - but I'd hate to have to install the Mugen 2 again :wipes sweat from brow:

I wiped the cooler clean and gave the cpu a couple of light wipes to leave what I thought was a very very thin layer of thermal grease.

The temp is now 58C (only in the BIOS screen) on start and after 5 mins 59C (66C after 20mins). It is a warm sweaty day outside and my room is quite warm. Outside is 22C and very sunny.

Is this hot?

It could be the cooler but I'm not really sure. I had to raise the fan by about 10mm to sit above the viper patriot ram. I suppose the fan is not perfectly placed. The top of the fan edge is in line with the bolts at the top of the Mugen 2 heatsink.

Admittedly the Mugen 2 is such an ordeal (but satisfying when on) that maybe I've not done it correctly. I think I have though. Difficult to say. The instructions are very much Ikea-like (few words mainly rough diagrams).

I can notice that there is a tiny tiny bit of rocking motion in my heatsink (very small rock). How much play is acceptable?

I will look up more articles on installation of the Mugen 2 in the meantime. Thanks for the suggestion :) 
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June 25, 2010 6:51:46 PM

yay - temp down to 44C, now 48C after 15mins. tightened backplate of Mugen 2. Got idea from this:

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/267068-10-installin...

Need to look up normal idle temps...

edit: after 40 mins temp still at 48C. Stability :-) although that's with no load. I read that normal temps are between 35 - 40C at low load. What can I do more? Am still searching....Fans... what can I change? still looking

Oh... and my side panels aren't even on yet :-$
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June 26, 2010 1:57:03 PM

You should be idling in the low to mid 30's or possibly less with that cooler.
You can tell if you're applying the compound properly by simply pulling off the heatsink and examining the coverage on cpu.
From your previous post on this thread it sounds like you applied too much compound to me.
A pea sized blob in the middle of HS or the smallest sized dabs in a uniform grid pattern.
You only need to apply compond on the HS.
When mounting the HS count your turns for each screw to get proper tension.
Make sure your fan is mounted in the right direction pulling air through the HS.
It might sound silly but i've read post here were guys had the fan mounted in the wrong direction.
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June 26, 2010 2:39:51 PM

Crikey - my temps with side-panels on is stable at 55C. Not good. The fan is on the correct way according to the Mugen 2 instructions (i.e. with the Scythe symbol facing outwards therefore pulling the air through from the Scythe symbol side to the non-symbol side). Well I really hope I read it correctly. I spent so much time on it I do think I got it right :crosses fingers:

I have the fan parallel to the (power fan?) fan which has the metal covering on it. In this setup, as you correctly warned me (but I had already received the Mugen 2 by then and wanted to give a go), I had to raise the fan by about 10mm to sit above the Patriot Viper Extreme memory.

I do wonder whether the HS is hotter due to the fan not giving it all of its function.

I touched the HS yesterday before putting on the side panels and it wasn't hot at all. Could there be an issue related to the sensor? Gotta research that one I suppose.

I still haven't run the Prime95’s Blend Test as I've just spent hours deliberating over whether to update the bios. I am not going to. Read it should only be done by those who are confident or when needing to fix something. I was going to try but I can't seem to get the BIOS screen to recognise my USB stick in order to back up the BIOS (or is it CMOS) to the USB stick.

Anyhoo... should I get on with the updates of drivers from the Gigabyte website and then do some BIOS setting adjustments? Still learning the RAM timings (god they seem complicated). I could use the option in Windows (using the Gigabyte program) to set RAM timings...

Or after updating drivers should I just get on with running the Prime95’s Blend Test? Will that give me a good indication of where my system is going wrong/hot?
Maybe my mobo settings are making it run hot?

I really do think I had too much paste on the first time. I wiped it nearly all off but now the issue really can only be whether it's too little. I can nearly see the writing on the cpu through the paste.

One point though - I applied the paste to the cpu and not the HS base. Does this matter?

Might try to wipe it clean and apply the Mugen paste. Or order some Arctic Silver 5.

Surely such measures will only bring it down by a few degrees and not 20? It surely must be something I did whilst installing the hardware. I suspect so.

still learning and reading....
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June 26, 2010 3:19:42 PM

Dump all the Gigabyte utilities like Easytune 6 .Your better off doing your settings manually plus you'll learn more.
Gigabyte boards have a dual bios so you can save a stable oc.
Update to bios F5 and load the latest driver files too.
Download and use this utility for bios.
http://www.giga-byte.ca/Support/Motherboard/Utility_Dow...
yep sounds to me like your compound application could be better.
If you sent your info for the IC Diamond you'll get it.
Mine arrived on Thursday and it's a big tube much more then i expected.
Gigabyte bios is very easy to use to me anyways.
With the ram just enable XMP then adjuust your Dram to 1.66v.
Save to CMOS and exit.
To check if these settings registered restart in bios and look.
Everytime you upgrade your bios you'll have to re-adjust the ram as described.
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June 26, 2010 3:53:42 PM

Oh man- I think I've botched up my Win7 in someway. I put in the Gigabyte CD again and accidentally went to Xpress backup (was flickingbetween footy and this) it started teh backup and I thought it couldn't do any harm...
pants...now my win7 has problems booting. It does it (after doin g the repair steps with the installation CD) but everytime it says to choose from one of the two Win Home Edition recovered options.

Is there a way to format everything and start over? Should i do this?

btw, my mobo is the v2.0 so I think the latest bios is FA (the current BIOS, showing in the BIOS, version is FA) . Am happy to be wrong.

Once I get the Win7 running smoothly again I'll be so glad to use to your steps. Tis a lot of reading about options of settings in the mobo!

Edit: re your link for bios updates. Is that link for the @bios?

from this link:

http://forums.tweaktown.com/f69/bios-flashing-how-qflas...

they highly highly recommend NOT to use the @bios but to use Qflash. Something to do with @bios changing the clock (?) on the BIOS -which if and when it goes wrong means the mobo can only rest in peace (dead). Are they right or wrong?

Or maybe your link wasn't anything to do with the @bios and apologies.

Edit 2: additional reason for starting anew:
1)I set up RAID 1 via BIOS and chose to have the measured storage as less than max
- I seemed to understand that this would create a partition in the drive
2) When Windows 7 installed it did not recognise any partition so I had to create one via Windows
3) Upon choosing the partition of 40GB drive it installed happily but I can't see the rest of the 900GB drive anywhere - the following drives can be seen:
Local Disk (C): 38.9GB
Local Disk (D): 38.9GB (I guess this is the mirror drive?)
System Reserved (E): says 71.8MB free of 99.9MB. What is this?!
Floppy Disk Drive (A): But I don't have a floppy disk drive(?!)
DVD RW Drive: something I expected! Yay

I must have done something wrong with the initial setup.

My idea is like this....

Reformat the Hard drive ( Is there a way to do this from BIOS) hoping that simply reformatting will do the job

Remove the RAID 1

redo RAID 1 using the max storage capacity option

install Win7

create a partition of 40GB

install Win7 on the 40GB

pray Win7 will see the rest of the HDD storage - if not then learn about it

Install drivers from the Gigabyte CD

Install latest drivers saved from Internet. I have saved the driver updates to a USB stick - avoiding the Easytune 6 (gladly)

-I did notice that whilst trying to install the IRST (ista_cd) it said the system did not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software

Do your Mobo adjustments as you said: XMP and DRAM voltage to 1.66.

This just feels like the thing to do to avoid constant restart niggles.
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June 26, 2010 5:16:16 PM

My @BIOS link was straight from Gigabyte and i've never encountered a problem using it.
I've had numerous problems with usb thumb drives in general though.
I really have no tips on Raid 1 install though cuz i've never done one.
System Reserved is the MBR and OS files.
Do you have this board GA-EX58-UD3R ?
Cuz i thought you had a GA- X58A-UD3R.
Make sure you download for the proper mobo and revision #.
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June 26, 2010 5:20:58 PM


it's definitely a GA-X58A-UD3R. I checked the version by looking at the corner and it says v2.0. Unless the box was wrong. Know anywhere on the mobo where it will say? I've had a good look but can't find anything about that.

link to where I downloaded the files:

http://www.giga-byte.co.uk/Support/Motherboard/BIOS_Mod...

So what do you think of my restarting everything from anew?

Should I reformat first then disable the RAID or disable RAID then reformat?

Does it even matter which way round? If you don;t know I will reformat then disable. Then start all over again.

Thanks for all your help.

I am quite nervous about it as worried it might just complicate things even further.

That said I prob should do it as when I tried to install the drivers, now failures are happening!
MBR = Master Boot Record?

Update: Reformatted Drives by redoing RAID 1 using all storage

adjusting BIOS to the XMP and DRAM voltage to 1.66v

also changed fan setting to WMP and enabled warning of temps and fans cutting out

Reinstalling Windows 7 now...

update: Now installing updated drivers...but should they be done in a particular order?

I had this issue with my laptop. I believe this may be why my laptop is so weird now.
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June 26, 2010 9:55:30 PM

ok -so everything's reinstalled. Still can only see the small partitioned part of the drive - 40GB. No sign of the rest of the terrabyte.

One side of my case is off and temps are at 48C after running for hours. Am now about to run the Prime95 and RealTemp. Wish my machine luck!
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June 26, 2010 10:47:07 PM

Argh! Temp went up to 94C in seconds. Got scared and turned it off.

I'll have to start a new thread in how to cool my PC...
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June 28, 2010 3:31:28 PM

GinZ said:
ok -so everything's reinstalled. Still can only see the small partitioned part of the drive - 40GB. No sign of the rest of the terrabyte.


So this is in Windows that you can't see the rest of the drive?

Have you gone into My Computer -> (right click) Manage -> Disk Management?

You probably need to initialize the rest of the disk.
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June 28, 2010 8:16:10 PM

Thanks coldsleep. Bang on. Had to go into where you described and click on create simple drive.

Got temps down to 35C idle too. Also only up 59C when running Prime95 for over an hour on full load.

Next stop is getting loads of software to fully utilise my new beast.

I'll put some pics up soon when I get it all done.

Thanks to all and keep any suggestions for useful tips coming :bounce: 
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