Does this look okay? i7 build

Hey guys, I plan on building this rig in 3.5-4 weeks from today. Does this look okay? I've done a lot of research on these parts and my total budget is $2200 and not a penny more. Thanks in advance for the feedback :D

------------------------
NewEgg Wishlist URL: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=14992826
------------------------

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: ~4 weeks from today

BUDGET RANGE: $2200

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming mostly

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Keyboard, Mouse, Speakers, Sound card, OS, Monitor

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: NewEgg for all parts except the heatsink fans, processor ($200, microcenter), and maybe ssd (estimated to be out of stock on NewEgg until October)

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA

PARTS PREFERENCES: i7 CPU

OVERCLOCKING: Yes, definitely

SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Either SLI or Crossfire in the future

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1080

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CASE: COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD5 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU ($200 from microcenter): Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Model BX80601930

HEATSINK: Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B CPU Cooler

CPU FANS (two, push/pull): Yate Loon D12SH-12p

RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Redline 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 998805

GPU:: XFX HD-597A-CNB9 Radeon HD 5970 Black Edition 2GB 512 (256 x 2)-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support

POWER SUPPLY: CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850W ATX12V 2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply

SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Callisto MKNSSDCL120GB 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

HD: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

DVD BURNER: SAMSUNG 24x DVD Burner - Bulk SATA Model SH-S243N/BEBS LightScribe Support - OEM

MISC:

*Thermal compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
*Fan controller: NZXT Sentry-2 5.25" Touch Screen fan controller


TOTAL (shipping, tax, and instant rebates included):

$2182.65


edit: my question has to do with the 5970 card. I was told to go with XFX, though it's about $30 more expensive (shipping incl.) than the other 5970s on newegg. I assume this is because it has a longer warranty, but all of the $699 5970s are the same right?
16 answers Last reply
More about does okay build
  1. looks good
  2. 480gtx or 470gtx ali is also something to consider
  3. I'd switch the board for a Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R. It's cheaper, and one of the best out there.

    You'll also need to get a Y splitter for the two CPU fans.

    Other than that, everything looks fine.
  4. MadAdmiral said:
    I'd switch the board for a Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R. It's cheaper, and one of the best out there.

    You'll also need to get a Y splitter for the two CPU fans.

    Other than that, everything looks fine.


    Wow... Y-splitter. I didn't even think of that. Thanks. Is there a y splitter on newegg that you would recommend? I'd try to find it myself, but my ability to browse is somewhat limited since I'm at work :non:
  5. Why not Scythe S-flex or slipstream for the HS fans?

    G Skill Trident's are cheaper, use less voltage AND get tighter timings at 1600.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231254&cm_re=g_skill_trident_2000-_-20-231-254-_-Product

    Best SSD choice ATM would be either Intel X25-M's or OCZ Vertex 2's/LE.
  6. yes sapphire or GA 5970 for $700 is perfectly fine as well.

    I'd avoid MSI cuz you'll get better advice from your 90 yr old grandma who doesn't know the difference btwn a mouse and a keyboard than their tech support.
  7. Since you're already shopping at Microcenter-

    Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB are on sale for $59.99
  8. at stock the tridents have far worse timings though. And I run my muskings at CL6 on a voltage of 1.5
  9. Tom's results from their RAM roundup.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/dual-channel-ram-ddr3-4gb,2618-7.html

    7-8-7-19 at 2000, 6-7-5-16 at 1600.

    They gave it a recommended buy award.

    Don't think the mushkin can get those timings. Even if they do, it's $25 more for the same performance then.
  10. I think the mushkins can do better at 1600. But I don't suppose it's worth the extra 25.
  11. Ok guys, 2 new questions... what are the best fans for a push-pull configuration for the megahalems? 2 days ago, overclockers.com did a test of 65 different fans on the megahalems and said that the Yate Loon D12SH-12p and the San Ace 9G1212H101/9G1212H1011 were the best, but does anyone have any other opinions? Also, can someone point me to a newegg link for the best y splitter for this fan setup?
  12. you can also connect the fans directly to your fan controller like I did with my v12xt eliminating the need for a y splitter. It also allows you to take loud fans and dial down the speed when the cpu isn't stressed.

    As for the fans I think the yate loons look good although if you go with my above mentioned option maybe better to get higher rpm fans.
  13. Somebody_007 said:
    you can also connect the fans directly to your fan controller like I did with my v12xt eliminating the need for a y splitter. It also allows you to take loud fans and dial down the speed when the cpu isn't stressed.

    As for the fans I think the yate loons look good although if you go with my above mentioned option maybe better to get higher rpm fans.


    Thanks a lot, you've been really helpful in this thread
  14. The problem with connecting them to a fan controller is that you have to adjust them manually. If you used a Y splitter, the motherboard would do the adjustments automatically like it does for single fan heatsinks.
  15. Fan choice depends on what you want.

    Do you want to maximize cooling or minimize sound?

    Personally, long as temps stay under 70c at load, I'm fine with 5-10c higher temps, if I'm getting half the noise.

    In a silent room at night my personal gaming rig is quiet enough to be unnoticeable at 5ft. Actually can't even tell it's on if it weren't for blinking leds on the mobo.

    I'd much rather have that, than a rig that's 10C cooler and twice as loud.
  16. If you consider that a disadvantage then sure get I y-splitter. I prefer doing it mannually though.
Ask a new question

Read More

New Build Systems Product