ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO not posting
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Last response: in Motherboards
Hello,
I have the mobo mentioned in the title. The ati cat drivers were set to have it go into hibernate mode after being idle for 4 hours. I was surprised this morning to see the computer still online this morning with all the fans blowing etc. Sat down, and moved the mouse and nothing happened. So I tried to restart it, and it did not respond. Ended up pulling the power cable. Upon replugging it did not post... So i thought the video card had become unseated, reseated it and restarted. It did post, and the bios flashed by. Entered the bios, was not in it for more than 10 seconds when it left the bios by itself and went to the next splash screen.. then went back to the bios splash. It looped through that about 3 times then nothing. Now its back to not posting again. Anyone have any similar experiences?
ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO,
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
GIGABYTE GV-R685D5-1GD Radeon HD 6850 1GB
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T
I have the mobo mentioned in the title. The ati cat drivers were set to have it go into hibernate mode after being idle for 4 hours. I was surprised this morning to see the computer still online this morning with all the fans blowing etc. Sat down, and moved the mouse and nothing happened. So I tried to restart it, and it did not respond. Ended up pulling the power cable. Upon replugging it did not post... So i thought the video card had become unseated, reseated it and restarted. It did post, and the bios flashed by. Entered the bios, was not in it for more than 10 seconds when it left the bios by itself and went to the next splash screen.. then went back to the bios splash. It looped through that about 3 times then nothing. Now its back to not posting again. Anyone have any similar experiences?
ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO,
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
GIGABYTE GV-R685D5-1GD Radeon HD 6850 1GB
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T
More about : asus m4a88td evo posting
Doing this on iPhone, BOOT of Windows DVD, use F8 at boot and select a Restore Point and I cannot recall but if you can delete the hibernate file then do it, it is corrupted. *the hibernate file cannot be deleted there *
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/What-are-th...
Later I will post a link to use Sleep and how to solve Sleep problems. Don't use hibernate unless you have an UPS - it is fine on notebooks...
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/What-are-th...
Later I will post a link to use Sleep and how to solve Sleep problems. Don't use hibernate unless you have an UPS - it is fine on notebooks...
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I edit above, a lot easier on a PC.
Here's the Sleep post -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/976877
Here's where to find the Culprit -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/976034
Often we have a 'Spooler' issue with Files in the Spooler keeping it awake, nut run the CMD powercfg -energy first. USB is typically not going to cause a problem.
Let me know!
Here's the Sleep post -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/976877
Here's where to find the Culprit -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/976034
Often we have a 'Spooler' issue with Files in the Spooler keeping it awake, nut run the CMD powercfg -energy first. USB is typically not going to cause a problem.
Let me know!
Yes, a corrupted hibernate file easily can make you use the reset button of forcibly restart a few times until Windows 'figures out' the file is poof.
Running both F8 and later system file checker is a good idea. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929833
Also, a failing PSU can more less do the same thing. Especially if the problem persists.
Running both F8 and later system file checker is a good idea. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929833
Also, a failing PSU can more less do the same thing. Especially if the problem persists.
Not sure how much good hitting f8 is doing me when the computer is not even posting. No change, reset the cmos twice, didnt post. removed the video card, tried on board video, didnt post. The mobo's dram led is lighting up now... took out one stick, didnt post light came on. put in the other, light didnt come on, still didnt post. Going to try and reset the cmos and remove the battery and see if it will post. Still think its a corrupted file? Not sure what i can do about that if i cant get the thing to post even.
Assuming the problem is/was 'Windows', yes you might have to try either or both the Power button or Reset button several times.
IF NOTHING is happening then you'll need to 'short' the Clear CMOS jumper on the MOBO since I didn't see any reference to a Clear CMOS button - http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=umllTHNRm4IGqnbL
If it's still failing to 'Post' a/k/a you cannot get into BIOS then you've got bigger issues: bad PSU, MOBO, RAM, or CPU.
Yes, you can pull all but 1 stick, swap stick(s) if failure, and otherwise keep the RAM in the SAME color Slots/set.
Rule-out Shorting -> Next, unscrew all of the MOBO and PCIe screws and dangle the MOBO with a towel and away from any contact with conductive surfaces. I assume the CPU Fan mounting has either a plastic mount or plastic washers with no MOBO to Metal contact.
Q - what PSU? It should be 450W~650W (OC) or larger.
IF NOTHING is happening then you'll need to 'short' the Clear CMOS jumper on the MOBO since I didn't see any reference to a Clear CMOS button - http://usa.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=umllTHNRm4IGqnbL
If it's still failing to 'Post' a/k/a you cannot get into BIOS then you've got bigger issues: bad PSU, MOBO, RAM, or CPU.
Yes, you can pull all but 1 stick, swap stick(s) if failure, and otherwise keep the RAM in the SAME color Slots/set.
Rule-out Shorting -> Next, unscrew all of the MOBO and PCIe screws and dangle the MOBO with a towel and away from any contact with conductive surfaces. I assume the CPU Fan mounting has either a plastic mount or plastic washers with no MOBO to Metal contact.
Q - what PSU? It should be 450W~650W (OC) or larger.
Cleared the cmos, jumper and took the batt out. No change. Something new developed though, the dram led did start to light up. Ram i have is not on the motherboards "capatibility list". So the next question is, would the computer function with the ram i have for 30 days and then suddenly crap out?
I also i have another PSU that i will use this evening to test and see if it is my psu. 550w antec is what is currently in there
I also i have another PSU that i will use this evening to test and see if it is my psu. 550w antec is what is currently in there
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... is the ram i have in the mobo. Ive tried the memOK button too... it blinks and does its tests. Then it either turns off and stays off or it immediatly comes back on solid or stays off. In either case it makes no difference, no post
The RAM itself by 'selection' should be fine {might be bad} -> http://gskill.com/products.php?index=233 it's been tested on the AMD 790 & 890 Chipset MOBOs. You mentioned flashing your BIOS, what version is installed? 1601 minimum suggested or 1702 latest; 1015 required for CPU Phenom IIX6 1090T(HDT90ZFBK6DGR),3.2GHz,125W,rev.E0,SocketAM3,6-Core.
Just checking the basics:
RAM DIMM Slots: Black <or> Blue, either work, and properly seated.
GPU: Blue PCIe x16, 6-pin to PSU, and properly seated.
CPU Fan: No metal to MOBO contact, Mounting plate plastic or plastic washers.
Shorting: {see Rule-out Shorting above}
PSU: Working
RAM Diagnostic: Try one stick on ANY DIMM slot to Post, failure the other stick.
Failure, pull the GPU to see if the PC can stay on. If it does then try the GPU in the Grey PCIe Slot.
If you can get into the BIOS then:
RAM
1333 MHz 9-9-9-24-2N @ 1.5v
BIOS:
Load Defaults
DRAM Frequency - > DDR3-1333MHz
DRAM Timing Configuration:
DRAM CAS# Latency -> 9
DRAM RAS# to CAS# -> 9
DRAM RAS# PRE Time -> 9
DRAM RAS# ACT Time -> 24
-
DRAM Timing Mode -> 2N
-
DRAM Voltage -> 1.50~1.55~1.60v ; often the 4GB sticks need a little extra voltage due to density.
Just checking the basics:
RAM DIMM Slots: Black <or> Blue, either work, and properly seated.
GPU: Blue PCIe x16, 6-pin to PSU, and properly seated.
CPU Fan: No metal to MOBO contact, Mounting plate plastic or plastic washers.
Shorting: {see Rule-out Shorting above}
PSU: Working
RAM Diagnostic: Try one stick on ANY DIMM slot to Post, failure the other stick.
Failure, pull the GPU to see if the PC can stay on. If it does then try the GPU in the Grey PCIe Slot.
If you can get into the BIOS then:
RAM
1333 MHz 9-9-9-24-2N @ 1.5v
BIOS:
Load Defaults
DRAM Frequency - > DDR3-1333MHz
DRAM Timing Configuration:
DRAM CAS# Latency -> 9
DRAM RAS# to CAS# -> 9
DRAM RAS# PRE Time -> 9
DRAM RAS# ACT Time -> 24
-
DRAM Timing Mode -> 2N
-
DRAM Voltage -> 1.50~1.55~1.60v ; often the 4GB sticks need a little extra voltage due to density.
PSU - A failing PSU will do all sorts of oddball stuff: Boot then shutdown, Post Failures, Partial Boots, Lock-ups, Christmas Tree the LEDs, the beginning stages primary symptoms are 'unexplained and erratic behavior.'
The older Antec's are a nightmare, the newer Japaneses capacitor are better, and best to have a single rail on top of that. I prefer Corsair PSUs.
Worst, a failing PSU can damage/ruin anything it's attached to if it lacks fault tolerance {GPU, MOBO, CPU, RAM...}.
If your PC you're typing on has 300W+ then you can try it, otherwise go to a store like Best Buy with a Good Return Policy and get another PSU to rule-out the PSU.
The older Antec's are a nightmare, the newer Japaneses capacitor are better, and best to have a single rail on top of that. I prefer Corsair PSUs.
Worst, a failing PSU can damage/ruin anything it's attached to if it lacks fault tolerance {GPU, MOBO, CPU, RAM...}.
If your PC you're typing on has 300W+ then you can try it, otherwise go to a store like Best Buy with a Good Return Policy and get another PSU to rule-out the PSU.
My old computer has a thermaltake 400W in it. Should be sufficent to just run the mobo etc. To see if it will post. Ill have to try it tonight when I get home. Thanks for all of your suggestions too Jaquith, really appreciate it. Hopefully none of the "fried stuff" you mentioned exists. So hopefully when i test that other psu it will post at least. Then ill have an answer to the cause.
If you're not OC then the 550W is sufficient. PSU's, if indeed it's the issue, can fail for no reason at all. Also as shorted component can kill it quickly. On the long you want a PSU slightly over sized because of 'Capacitor Aging' If a PSU is running hot, typically a sign of undersized, it can burn-out in a year or less.
Also, if your power Hz dropped, spiked, etc same problem. I highly recommend an UPS, it will extend the PSU life and protect your PC and Data. I live in Florida, lightning capital + brown-outs + power loss, and you'd be an idiot here not to have an UPS on EVERY electronic device; I have UPS on my Plasma/LCD TVs! Thousands vs Hundred+?!
Here's a couple of PSU Calcs:
Robust calc - http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/ {see items 1-4 @ bottom}
Good PSUs factors in +30% -> http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/ {Power Supply Finder tab}
Also, if your power Hz dropped, spiked, etc same problem. I highly recommend an UPS, it will extend the PSU life and protect your PC and Data. I live in Florida, lightning capital + brown-outs + power loss, and you'd be an idiot here not to have an UPS on EVERY electronic device; I have UPS on my Plasma/LCD TVs! Thousands vs Hundred+?!
Here's a couple of PSU Calcs:
Robust calc - http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/ {see items 1-4 @ bottom}
Good PSUs factors in +30% -> http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/ {Power Supply Finder tab}
Alright, well i guess the lineup for tonight is to test the psu with another i know that works. And tommorow I will get another stick of ram from a friend and see if that is the issue.
edit: what i have done thus far that has resulted in no change (still not posting). Removed the video card, onboard video*, removed one stick, put another stick in, vise versa, cleared the cmos with the jumper, AND removed the battery,
edit2: would the fact that the reset button does not function when the computer is "on", nor the power button turn the computer off... indicate anything, perhaps PSU related?
edit: what i have done thus far that has resulted in no change (still not posting). Removed the video card, onboard video*, removed one stick, put another stick in, vise versa, cleared the cmos with the jumper, AND removed the battery,
edit2: would the fact that the reset button does not function when the computer is "on", nor the power button turn the computer off... indicate anything, perhaps PSU related?
It tells me besides a whole lot a fun the: PSU, Front Panel wiring, or MOBO would be my focus.
1. Rule-out wiring: pull all of the Front Panel wiring, and use a wire/paper clip/screw driver head and short the PWR+ & PWR- to start PC. Keep in mind this also rules-out the Case switches.
2. Rule-out PSU: different PSU
3. --- leaves the MOBO especially with the borrowed stick.
Let me know.
1. Rule-out wiring: pull all of the Front Panel wiring, and use a wire/paper clip/screw driver head and short the PWR+ & PWR- to start PC. Keep in mind this also rules-out the Case switches.
2. Rule-out PSU: different PSU
3. --- leaves the MOBO especially with the borrowed stick.
Let me know.
I am.. a ^@* retard. Good news, im currently typing this post on the computer I had the issues with. BAD NEWS... when i put in one of those 120mm case fans in the front of my computer... i cut some of the wires. Obviously including AT LEAST the power on wire. Thus.. the issues I was having with it not posting. I dont know how I will fix that wire being cut.. right now im so happy Id be fine with turning on my computer with a flat head screw driver from now until the end of time.
Jaquith, what can i say... I would probably be sending parts off to respective manufacturers for a exchange right now if not for you. Thank you so much man, I really appreciate it. You just turned me into a toms hardware junkie for life.
Jaquith, what can i say... I would probably be sending parts off to respective manufacturers for a exchange right now if not for you. Thank you so much man, I really appreciate it. You just turned me into a toms hardware junkie for life.
Im having this same/similar problem. only i think mine is a faulty mobo, all my fans are working and i have not added anything to my system.
PSU (750w Thermaltake, CPU (phenom 1100t 6 core 3.3ghz), GPU (radeon saphire hd6950) have all been working for about 7 months no problem.
M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 mobo just got replaced about 20 days ago and then everything started to crap out. cant boot, crashes in bios and in boot selection menu. ive gone through many event id's to try fix anything i could while it was still able to boot to windows.
Run memtest with no errors on any sticks
Monitored GPU and CPU heat using speedfan.
Hard Drive extended test on speedfan S.M.A.R.T
Done SFC/Scannow and CHKDSK /R
Fresh install of windows 7 home prem 64 bit.
Run CCleaner and Spybot.
Run on one ram stick with same problem in multiple slots.
run on onboard graphics. same problem
going to remove cmos battery tonight and see where i get too.
Reason i had the mobo replaced was because the last one was faulty. (bad ram slot found from extensive memtesting)
Any advice would be well received as im tearing my hair out and ive exhausted my knowledge and need a pro's help.
PSU (750w Thermaltake, CPU (phenom 1100t 6 core 3.3ghz), GPU (radeon saphire hd6950) have all been working for about 7 months no problem.
M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 mobo just got replaced about 20 days ago and then everything started to crap out. cant boot, crashes in bios and in boot selection menu. ive gone through many event id's to try fix anything i could while it was still able to boot to windows.
Run memtest with no errors on any sticks
Monitored GPU and CPU heat using speedfan.
Hard Drive extended test on speedfan S.M.A.R.T
Done SFC/Scannow and CHKDSK /R
Fresh install of windows 7 home prem 64 bit.
Run CCleaner and Spybot.
Run on one ram stick with same problem in multiple slots.
run on onboard graphics. same problem
going to remove cmos battery tonight and see where i get too.
Reason i had the mobo replaced was because the last one was faulty. (bad ram slot found from extensive memtesting)
Any advice would be well received as im tearing my hair out and ive exhausted my knowledge and need a pro's help.
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