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Asus P6T Deluxe Fried?

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April 7, 2011 6:06:17 PM

Hi Folks

My Mobo looks like it died this morning:
Here is my setup
- Asus P6T Deluxe OC Palm edition
- Core i7 920. Slightly overclocked/undervolted @ 3.0 Gbps , perfectly stable for 2 years, no heat issues.
- Coolermaster V8 - not the best out there but it looked good at the time.
- Radeon 5870
- Thermaltake 750W PSU

And here are the symptoms.
- Ran fine til yesterday about 4AM, did a soft shutdown.
- Tried to turn in back on around 7AM, fans start spinning for half a second, then power down. Power button does nothing at all after that. There was no noise, no strange smell, no sparks or anything, it just wend dead.
- Open case, onboard power switch is lit in red (dont remember if thats the normal color), has no effect.
- Tried all the usual tests: Take out the mobo, full clean up and breadboard test: nothing
- Take out bios battery, reset bios, nothing.
- Take out the graphics card, swap the RAM, different slots, different ram, still nothing
- Change back to the stock intel fan, still nothing.

I'm tempted to conclude dead Mobo. Is there a chance it might be the PSU or the chip? I dont have any spares to test with unfortunately.

Now for the bonus question: If its indeed the mobo, do I replace it or do I invest in a new P67 mobo + Core i5 2500K?

More about : asus p6t deluxe fried

April 9, 2011 6:32:26 PM

Sounds exactly like what happened to my P7P55D-E. The computer would turn on after pushing the power button, the fans would spin, then it would shut off. After that I would need to completely disconnect the power and left the mobo discharge before I could turn it on again. In my case it was a bad mobo. It's unlikely that it is the chip and I would vote a bad mobo before a bad chip.

Have you tried swapping the PSU or testing the rails on the PSU with a multimeter? During the breadboard test, does shorting the power switch pins cause the same behavior (turn on briefly, then off)?

The good news is your mobo may still be under warranty, I believe the P6T has a 36 month warranty. ASUS RMA takes about 10-14 days. If you do decide to RMA make sure you directly call ASUS as the online system takes much longer in my experience.
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a c 717 V Motherboard
a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
April 9, 2011 8:15:24 PM

A failed PSU will do the same things as you've described. The Thermaltake 750W has a five year warranty. The paper clip tests only means it's not totally fried.

In the process of breadboarding pull all of the Ft Panel and USB headers, use a screw driver or wire to short the PWR+ and PWR-{ground}. Make it minimal: 1 Stick, CPU w/ HSF, MOBO, PSU. Nothing else, yeah no keyboard, mouse, HDD or GPU. If it runs then add the GPU.

I've seen a USB mouse cause a post failure -- cat bit the cord and shorted it.
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a c 717 V Motherboard
a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
April 9, 2011 8:30:38 PM

Zolt said:
Now for the bonus question: If its indeed the mobo, do I replace it or do I invest in a new P67 mobo + Core i5 2500K?


Don't get a P67, fix or RMA what you've got. The ASUS has a 3 year warranty, PSU 5 years, RAM probably lifetime, CPU boxed is 3 year.

The LGA 1155 is a step to the side for you, instead wait for the :o  LGA 2011: SB CPU 6 or 8 core, Quad Channel RAM, PCIe 3.0, 32 lanes vs P67's 16 lanes {in comparison it's like 64 lanes equivalent bandwidth}. It's the reason for the 2,011 pins! It will run circles around the P67.

LGA 2011 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_2011
SB CPU for LGA 2011 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandy_Bridge#Desktop_proce...
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April 10, 2011 4:14:08 AM

I had same thing happen with my ASUS p7p55d Evo board recently. It is disappointing to see so many cases like this, especially with high end ASUS boards.
I RMA's mine 2 times already and they said to me they didn't experience any instability.
Strange thing is, when I left the PC disconnected for few days, it turned on fine, lasted for few hours, then the screen just went off and 3 seconds later the CPU led light went on and mobo restarted itself. I already tested both ram and cpu. The only possibility is either Mobo or PSU. I'm using Thermaltake Tough power Qfan 750W PSU......with lifetime warranty. All voltages checked out in BIOS.
I'm thinking one of the capacitors on mobo went AWOL....
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April 10, 2011 4:11:53 PM

Xoil, as I said I had the exact same problem with my p7p55d-e pro board. I read around and there are several reports of similar problems with the higher end ASUS boards. After my RMA I replaced the PSU (just to be sure, even though all the old PC Power and Cooling 610W checked out on the multimeter). If it fails again it's got to be a QA problem with manufacturing.
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a c 717 V Motherboard
a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
April 10, 2011 5:01:33 PM

Just putting it out there - the P7P55D-E Pro and many LGA 1156 MOBO have had issues with CPU pins being bent.

@singemagique - I noticed your prior post http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/287235-30-p7p55d-turn...

The first (2) things I noticed right off the bat:
1. Core i5 760 is borderline capable of running 1600 DDR3 without a BCLK or DOCP.
2. CPU IMC is being strained - Maxing-out the DIMM slots is fine, but 9/10 you either need to increase the DRAM Voltage +0.05~+0.10v and quite possibly the QPI/DRAM Voltage {a/k/a IMC Voltage}. The typical calculation is: IMC Voltage = DRAM Voltage - 0.4v~0.30v

If Rated is 1600 @ 1.65v then IMC Voltage is 1.25v~1.35v.

Further, the best results are:
1. {8GB} Single Set 4x2GB DDR3 kit, or minimum 2 2x2GB kits.
a. If 2 2x2GB DIMM installation: CPU | Set1 | Set2 | Set1 | Set2 | and NOT CPU | Set1 | Set1 | Set2 | Set2 |
2. QVL or Tested per RAM Mfg kits
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April 10, 2011 5:15:53 PM

@jaquith- How do you run at 1600 on an i5 without doing a BCLK or DOCP? As for the bent pins, I checked all CPU pins with surgical loupes and a flashlight before sending it back.

I use the following configuration for 1600 DDR3 on the i5 760. My RAM is rated for 1600 @ 1.5V, hence why I chose that voltage.

Multiplier=18
BCLK=160 (from 133)
Vcore= 1.15
IMC Voltage=1.175
DRAM Voltage = 1.500
PLL= 1.800
PCH = 1.050
Disabled LLC
Disabled CPU Spread Spectrum

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a c 717 V Motherboard
a c 207 Ĉ ASUS
April 10, 2011 10:14:45 PM

Today is Sunday, so I'm not on my PC too much today.

Try it without BCLK, your listed CPU is 2.8GHz -> http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=48496

Also, 'most' G.SKILL 1600's are not 1.50v @ 1600 MHz, but they are 1.5v @ 'SPD'. Make certain that under the CPU-Z SPD tab that you are looking at the 'XMP-1600' column. Most are typically 1.6~1.65v. The new Ripjaws X are 1.5v. As for the remainder of the settings use Auto.

If you post a link to your RAM I'll post the exact info below. Meanwhile, review this post for some ideas -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289597-30-windows-rat...

Settings Generic:
1600 9-9-9-24 {CL-tRCD-tRP-CMD} @ 1.50v
[1] Easy - but might Post fail or BSOD {2 sticks no problem, 4 ehh it can be an issue}:
Ai Overclock Tuner [X.M.P.]

yeah it's that easy...

[2] Manual Speed with Auto Timings:
Ai Overclock Tuner [Auto]
DRAM Frequency -> [DDR3-1600 MHz]

[3] Full Manual:
Ai Overclock Tuner [Manual]
DRAM Frequency -> [DDR3-1600 MHz]
DRAM Timing Control /Enter

DRAM CAS# Latency [9]
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay [9]
DRAM RAS# PRE Time [9]
DRAM RAS# ACT Time [24]
-
DRAM Timing Mode [2N]
---
DRAM Bus Voltage [Auto ~1.55v ~ 1.60v] ± use closest value available *
---
ONLY IF FAILURE: IMC Voltage [Auto ~ 1.25v ~ 1.30v] ± use closest value available *

*note: the ranges listed above correspond to each other and are only if failure including Memtest {1.55 (1.25), 1.60 (1.30)}

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