X58A-UD3R issues

[nfwego]

I have been having random Blue screens since December. A bunch at the start, now about once a month. Random messages. IRQL not less than or equal, Page file in non paged area, memory management etc... I initially replaced the Memory. No change. The I reformatted the main OS drive. No change. I then ran Memtest on the memory...found some errors, so I RMA'd that. No change. I bought a new hard drive and no change. Then The PC began restarting after post screen on cold boot. I bought a new PSU. and RMA'd my graphics card. I also stress tested my Processor (i7920) no errors found. Since then no restarts and a few blue screens that I thought were related to my antivirus so I changed my antivirus program. Today the restarts at post started again. It gets to the post screen and restarts...did this 3 times before getting to start windows. Is my MOBO dying? SOmeone please help me!

Summary of all Ive changed
RMA'd memory
New Hard Drive
New PSU
RMA'd Graphics card

What's left??? MOBO??

Specs
GA-X58A-UD3R rev 1.0 F6 BIOS
i7920 (not overclocked)
12gb OCZ Gold PC3-12800
750 Watt PSU
EVGA GT9800

 

[spooky2th]

Have you checked to see if there is a BIOS update for you system. Many times BIOS issues just show up, after some triggering event happens on a computer.

 

[nfwego]

I have the latest tested Bios F6. There is an F7 out there, but it is a beta version. BTW, forgot to add I am using Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit

 

[jaquith]

Well the OCZ RAM isn't helping things, but the GA-X58A-UD3R has its issues.

Q - What Drives are connected to What ports?
Q - Any drives in RAID?
Q - What Exact changes has you made in the BIOS?

Q - What Critical Errors are listed in the Event Manager?

 

[nfwego]

Since Ive already RMA'd the Ram and ran MEMtest, I would hope thats still not the issue, but what brand would you recommend in case I go that route?

Answers to your questions
1. WD 500GB C Drive (OS) on Port GSATA3_7
WD 1000GB D Drive (Data) on Port GSATA3_6
Samsung DVD +- RW Drive on Port GSATA2_4
LG BD-R Drive on Port GSATA2_5
2. No drives in raid.
3. No bios changes. For a while I had it running in the OCZ reccommended Bios timings etc, but got the same issues, so i went back to defaults. Its currently running Bios Defaults. I do not overclock.
4. I was going to post a screen shot, but can't figure out how on here? There is one critical error listed, remember I have re-installed windows on my drive a few times, but I did save all the minidumps if you want those. The error says... event ID: 41 Source: Kernel-Power Log: System

 

[jaquith]

It's generally not a good idea to have your primary OS on a [strike]lower[/strike] higher numbered SATA Port than Data drives. Next, knowing the Marvell 9128 uses x1 lanes and combined you're lucky to see ~375MB/s AND your mechanical HDDs are ~150MB/s AND SATA3 HDD is a marketing thing {interface only} I recommend they stay on the SATA2 ports {they're good for 285~295 MB/s}.

See -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/290007-30-useless-gigabyte-x58a-ud3r

For you the following:
Ports:
SATA2_0~3 HDDs
SATA2_4~5 ODDs
--
SATA2_0 ; the low port number is the one closets to the MOBO PCB

BIOS:
1. Press the Clear CMOS button
2. Once in the BIOS; Load Optimized

ICH SATA Control Mode -> AHCI
SATA Port0-3 Native Mode -> Enabled
GSATA 6_7/IDE Controller -> Disabled

SATA2_0 WD 500GB C Drive (OS)
SATA2_1 Blank

SATA2_2 WD 1000GB D Drive (Data)
SATA2_3 Blank

SATA2_4 Samsung DVD±RW
SATA2_5 LG BD-R Drive

Once in Windows, AHCI Windows repair -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976

Since you've been having shutdowns, see below. Once the C HDD is repaired select the D and only choose the 'bad sectors option. Reboot in between each HDD and repair. The C primary will take 30~40 minutes so schedule appropriately.

Good Luck!

 

[nfwego]

OK...So I changed the ports of the hard drives as you specified. OS Hard drive went in to Sata2_0, and Data drive went into Sata2_2. I cleared CMOS. I went into Bios, Loaded optimized Defaults, and Changed the following settings
ICH SATA Control Mode -> AHCI
SATA Port0-3 Native Mode -> Enabled
GSATA 6_7/IDE Controller -> Disabled

I hit f10 to save and quit. It Posted...and blue screen. It didnt even get to windows, so I don't have anything in Event viewer or a mindump file. I obviously did not get to the next steps, of ACHI windows repair, or Checkdisk. (BTW, I have run checkdisk a few times previous in this whole nightmare, but I was going to follow your steps to the letter). So What next? Does this tell you anything? MOBO?

 

[jaquith]

Maybe.

Unplug the all of the SATA ports except the SATA2_0 WD 500GB C Drive (OS).

BIOS:
Load Fail Safe
Save & Exit

Q - Any of the MOBO LED lights on {Red or Yellow}?

Boot failure {see} link; insert Widows 7 DVD, boot F8 and select Startup Repair -> http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/What-are-the-system-recovery-options-in-Windows-7

Once 'fixed' repeat the as before and reconnect the drives.
BIOS:
Load Optimized

ICH SATA Control Mode -> AHCI
SATA Port0-3 Native Mode -> Enabled
GSATA 6_7/IDE Controller -> Disabled

etc...as before.

 

[nfwego]

Jaquith,
I will do thses steps when I get time with it tonight. However, I do have all the correct timing info etc from OCZ, Would you rather I enter those in, or just hit Load Optimized.

I will report back once I get home tonight and try all this. Also, only get MOBO lights during boot up, nothing once windows loads...but that is normal right? I will watch more closely tonight.

 

[jaquith]

Once it boots and everything is up and running then later go back into the BIOS and manually set the memory multipliers, CAS, voltage, etc. Start with 'Fail Safe' and then 'Optimized' + the other listed settings. The RAM will simply run at 1066 MHz 'SPD' which is maybe 2~3+% slower, but it reduces the variables.

I'm not 100% convinced that your RAM isn't playing a part in this problem. So to add on above, if the Fail Safe also fails then pull the other 2 sticks and use 1 stick in the 'second' DIMM slot from the CPU a/k/a DDR3_1 which is the 2nd DIMM slot; failure swap sticks... Worst case try GSATA3_6 and verify it's enabled in the BIOS.

BTW - Good 3X4GB sets 1600 9-9-9-24-2T @ 1.65v: Corsair Dominator CMP12GX3M3A1600C9 <or> Mushkin Enhanced Blackline Model 998776

 

[nfwego]

The fail safe worked. I just havent had time to do the rest yet. But will report back tonight. BTW, I have 6 sticks 2GB each.

 

[jaquith]

BTW, I have 6 sticks 2GB each.

Often saturating all the DIMM slots leads to under-powered DIMMs, so the extra settings should correct that problem.

There are a lot of 'Gold OCZ' models so the following is an example and you need verify your specs via OCZ or use CPU-Z for correct CAS, and Voltage. Example - http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-ddr3-pc3-12800-gold-low-voltage-triple-channel.html Fortunately, you're heading in the right direction and at least Fail Safe got you running. Often when Fail Safe 'works' it means 'RAM issues/problems' and sometimes IDE<->AHCI. Yippie

Example: 1600 MHz CL 8-8-8-24-2T {most 1600 are 2T} (CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS) @ 1.65v

BIOS:
Load Optimized
System Memory Multiplier -> 12 ; 12 X 133 MHz BCLK = 1600 MHz
DRAM Timing Selectable -> Quick ; optional
//set CAS Timings -> 8-8-8-24 ***
//set Command Rate(CMD) -> 2
QPI/Vtt Voltage -> 1.35v ; ** this is CPU IMC voltage for the RAM
DRAM Voltage -> 1.64v~1.70v ; ** DIMM/RAM voltage

ICH SATA Control Mode -> AHCI
SATA Port0-3 Native Mode -> Enabled
GSATA 6_7/IDE Controller -> Disabled

SATA2_0 WD 500GB C Drive (OS)
SATA2_1 Blank

SATA2_2 WD 1000GB D Drive (Data)
SATA2_3 Blank

SATA2_4 Samsung DVD±RW
SATA2_5 LG BD-R Drive

Once in Windows, AHCI Windows repair -> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976

Also the Scan 'funness' but only once 100% rock stable - http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/Scan-Drives-Windows-7.jpg

footnote: ** Your MOBO DDR Voltage LED will probably go yellow, but it's okay. Mine looks like a Christmas tree. *** CAS 8-8-8 with full DIMM slots is often a problem, so if you get failures try 9-9-9-24-2T and/or up the DRAM voltage. In some cases only 1333 MHz works {System Memory Multiplier -> 10} vs 1600 MHz with some kits.

Let me know...

 

[nfwego]

OK...first I think you are a step ahead of me...I am stilltrying to get Optimized defaults to load. I am still on your 4-20 9:33pm post. Also, remember, I was in Fail safe when most of my issues started and when I started this post.

1. I unplugged everything except my 500GB WD main os drive. Went into bios loaded fail safe defaults. Let it boot up. Restarted.
2. Had to plug back in an optical drive to load the windows 7 disk, When I did this it got to post and did the mysterious shutdown and rebooted for some reason???
after it did that it booted the windows disk and I ran the repair option. I Let it boot.
3. Went into Bios, loaded optimized defaults. saved f10 and restarted.
4. Went into Bios again changed the following settings
ICH SATA Control Mode -> AHCI
SATA Port0-3 Native Mode -> Enabled
GSATA 6_7/IDE Controller -> Disabled

I hit f10 to save to bios and rebooted....got past post...and blue screened again.

 

[jaquith]

Got it.

If Load Optimized is working then for now forget AHCI.

Only do the following:
Load Optimized
System Memory Multiplier -> 12 ; 12 X 133 MHz BCLK = 1600 MHz
DRAM Timing Selectable -> Quick ; optional
//set CAS Timings -> 8-8-8-24 ***
//set Command Rate(CMD) -> 2
QPI/Vtt Voltage -> 1.35v ; ** this is CPU IMC voltage for the RAM
DRAM Voltage -> 1.64v~1.70v ; ** DIMM/RAM voltage

If you keep going in circles then maybe it's time to replace the MOBO, this post is what got me started at Tom's -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/276715-30-x58a-ud3r-raid-bsod-disk-boot-failure the core problem was GA's implementation of SATA. Most of the time it's limited to SSD on Rev 1 and SSD + multiple HDDs/RAID in Rev 2. I didn't post this because I didn't want a bias on your issues.

 

[nfwego]

Replace MOBO? With something different are you suggesting? I just found out today they approved my RMA, I was planning on going that route first, its still under warranty. Do you suggest I do that, or just get a different MOBO?

 

[jaquith]

The only way to get a 'new' MOBO is for Gigabyte or whomever you purchased it from would provide a refund. My problems started after 2-3 days and soon after more began having problems so I was under the 30 day mark.

In my case I went with the ASUS P6X58D-E and a year later 0 (zero) problems, and alternative is the ASUS P6X58D Premium. I still have 1 GA-X58A-UD3R (rev 2) which I recently replaced and it doesn't have the old problems The UD3R make good hackintosh builds, and on paper they're great MOBOs.

However, the NEWER PCB UD3R revision 2 seems to be okay. Last year every time I saw the UD3R MOBO I asked the same two questions - do you have RAID? & do you have SSD? The rev 1 was almost guaranteed to have problems with SSD and ditto rev 2 with RAID.

Therefore, ask -- no demand an updated GA-X58A-UD3R rev 2 and you should be fine.

Bottom-line, it's NOT you, you've done nothing wrong!

----------
side-by-side http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007627%20600007887&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=280|13-131-614^13-131-614-TS%2C13-131-641^13-131-641-TS%2C13-128-423^13-128-423-TS
The ASUS P6X58D-E does have RAID 0/1 on the SATA3 Marvell {Premium doesn't}, but both ASUS lack the eSATA of GA.

 

[nfwego]

Jaquith,
They approved my RMA...so that is my next step. Would you suggest "demanding" for the rev 2.0 somewhere on the paperwork I am supposed to include with the RMA?

Again...thank you for helping me out. I am self taught with computers, but I learn a lot from people like you on these boards.

 

[jaquith]

Frankly, you need to be insistent and if necessary not nice with Gigabyte and get something in writing from them and 'gift wrap' the MOBO in the rev 2 paperwork. Assume everyone needs a clear reminder, including the person in the fulfillment department.

Good Luck!

 

[izanaki]

This is going to sound stupid but just for fun, get your room tempature at 72F where your computer is. Let your computer sit in that room for a couple of hours at least or if you can't wait, take a hair dryer to your northbridge and heat it up for about a 1 minute.

See if that works. Did for me. My issue was if my P55-UD4P was in a room at 69F or colder I could not get it to post after a cold boot.

 

[nfwego]

The board was RMA'd and already gone. Have not received the new one yet. And if that was the problem...Id be buying a new board.