WD 1TB Drive wrong power supply

[klugardo]

plugged 19v laptop power into my 12v external drive.

HP external.

After opened and placed in new encloser same results light on power connecter goes out.


opened case it is a Western Digital Cavier Green
1TB 2009 model wd10eads


have unscrewed the pcb

going to bring my pcb to a tech with a ohmeter.

from what i have read D3 D4 R64 R67 need to be tested.

i have read the drive can be run with D4 snipped out. and R64 or R67 jumpered.

can i please be informed once again what the correct reading on D3 & D4 should be?

also if R64 or R67 have to be jumpered..

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bigcircuitboard_diodes.jpg

i will bring this to someone and connect in a pc tomorrow.

and post the results. if anything finding that no one has posted results upsets me greatly

thank you for your time all.

 

[fzabkar]

I haven't experienced your problem for myself, but D4 is usually the culprit. If R64 is open circuit, then there is a chance that the board may have sustained further damage. I'm not certain whether R64 needs to be jumpered for the board to work(you can flow a blob of solder over it), but it should measure 0 ohms.

Note that there may be additional damage on the USB-SATA bridge board, so you may need to test the drive inside your PC. If the bridge board is in fact damaged, then there is often a simple DIY fix for that, too. Let me know if you need help with this.

If the HDD PCB is damaged beyond economical repair, then you will need to transfer the original board's unique "adaptive" data to your donor PCB. Several PCB suppliers include such a service for free, or for US$10.

 

[klugardo]

yes i picked allthis information up reading your past posts.
can i not just rplace the diode with another ? and the resistor with another?

this is why i wanted all their correct readings so i could simply replace them.
what is d4 simply a 12v diode?

r64 is a what resistor and rating?

do you have this info?

once i get it i will replace componants take picture test and post.

 

[fzabkar]

The diode can be substituted with an SMBJ12A, or with a 12V TVS diode from any other HDD.

The "resistor" is actually a fusible zero-ohm link. Just flow a blob of solder over it.

Note that there may be additional damage to the SMOOTH motor controller IC, so you may want to check that before wasting any time on the diode.

 

[klugardo]

way over my head now i feel stupid.
smooth motor controller IC? how do i test that?

at the moment i am in bogota colombia and dont really have access to normal stuff.

or i would do it myself.

this smbj12a.. is this a common part i can ask the tech to get?

the "resistor" we are speaking of is r64?

 

[fzabkar]

The SMBJ12A is available from Digikey, Mouser, Farnell, RS Components, etc.

R64 is indeed the "resistor" that is associated with D4.

The SMOOTH motor controller is something you would examine by eye. The damage is usually visible.

FYI, here is the datasheet for an early SMOOTH controller:

L7250, SMOOTH, spindle motor + VCM controller, ST Microelectronics:
http://wandrew.regruppa.ru/PCInfo/TechDoc/L7250(Smooth).pdf
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/SGSThomsonMicroelectronics/mXyuswx.pdf

Your IC will be different, but similar enough to enable a technician to understand how it works.

 

[klugardo]

the smooth controller looks nominal as far as i can see no scorch marks at all.

fzabkar what do you advise.

 

[fzabkar]

Check D4 and R64. If D4 is shorted, then remove it. If R64 is open circuit, then flow a blob of solder over it. Confirm that there are no additional shorts on either the +5V or the +12V supplies, and then power up the drive and hope for the best.

Good luck.

 

[klugardo]

if r64 is shorted it will read =?

additional shorts?

where would i place the meter on the board to find these?

 

[fzabkar]

By definition, a short circuit = zero ohms.

Measure the resistance between ground and each of the +5V and +12V pins at the SATA power connector.

http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

Your technician will know what to do.

 

[klugardo]

I haven't experienced your problem for myself, but D4 is usually the culprit. If R64 is open circuit, then there is a chance that the board may have sustained further damage. I'm not certain whether R64 needs to be jumpered for the board to work(you can flow a blob of solder over it), but it should measure 0 ohms.

Note that there may be additional damage on the USB-SATA bridge board, so you may need to test the drive inside your PC. If the bridge board is in fact damaged, then there is often a simple DIY fix for that, too. Let me know if you need help with this.

If the HDD PCB is damaged beyond economical repair, then you will need to transfer the original board's unique "adaptive" data to your donor PCB. Several PCB suppliers include such a service for free, or for US$10.

I really need your help with this please please