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Read Several Guides - More Confused Than Ever

I'm trying to build a relatively inexpensive gaming machine. This is my first time trying to build a computer myself, so I still have a lot to learn. Right now I'm still shopping around for the components.

This is the motherboard that I'm considering buying:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813153205

From that site, I know that I need 240pin DDR3 1333. From the manufacturer site, it says DDR3 1333/1066. From what I've read in the guides, a higher number is better, correct? So I would want the 1333 over the 1066. So far so good. :)

So I go over to newegg's memory section and things start to get complicated. DDR3 1333 also comes in PC3 10600, PC3 10660, or PC3 10666. In addition, I need to choose a CAS Latency of either 7, 8, 9, or 10. Again from the guides, my understanding is that PC3 ##### is better higher, and CAS Latency is better lower. But when I click on CAS Latency 7, all the filter results are DDR3 1066 PC3 8500. :??:

Now I'm super, super confused. For my purposes, should I be choosing a lower CAS Latency or a higher DDR3 #### and PC3 #####?
12 answers Last reply Best Answer
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  1. The 10600/10660/10666 numbers all refer to the theoretical maximum bandwidth of the memory. For whatever reason, some manufacturers use different numbers for the theoretical bandwidth. They all run at 1333MHz effective speed, so they are all the same.

    I found nine total 1333MHz CL7 kits:
    Five 4GB (2x2GB) 10600 CL7 kits
    One 4GB (2x2GB) 10660 CL7 kit
    Three 4GB (2x2GB) 10666 CL7 kits
  2. Thanks for the response. I was only looking at single 4GB sticks, so I totally missed those kits that you listed. Do you or anyone else know if CL7 offers a big performance boost over CL9? In other words, is the added expense worth the performance boost?
  3. For gaming, it won't make a difference. It would be beneficial if you fill this out. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261222-31-build-advice
  4. Best answer
    The difference in most cases is just a few percentage points. Where it seems to make the most difference is in the minimum frame rate when gaming. The average frame rate and maximum frame rate are about the same, but the minimum frame rate increases a bit when using RAM with lower timings. Whether you will actually notice it or not depends entirely on the game.

    Would I spend the extra money? Nope.
  5. k1114 said:
    For gaming, it won't make a difference. It would be beneficial if you fill this out. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261222-31-build-advice


    Approximate Purchase Date: this week

    Budget Range: $800-$1,000 After Rebates

    System Usage from Most to Least Important: surfing internet, gaming, watching movies, MS office

    Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, case, DVD-rom, and power supply

    More power supply info: Antec SU-380 380W max.

    Preferred Website(s) for Parts: No preference, just whatever is cheaper and isn't a scam.

    Country of Origin: Me or the computer? I'm living in the USA, and I don't mind if the parts are manufactured elsewhere.

    Parts Preferences: No preference

    Overclocking: No

    SLI or Crossfire: These are for running two video cards at the same time, right? No, probably not gonna do that.

    Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050

    Additional Comments: I want to save money by using a case and power supply that is approximately ten years old, but in good condition. I looked up the old motherboard dimensions, and they're about the same as the ones that are made today. Is there any reason I should avoid re-using this old stuff?
  6. The case you can most likely re-use. The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.

    Note that not all mainboards come with PATA ports. If that DVD drive isn't SATA, you have to specifically look for one of the mainboards that comes with the older port.

    It should be fairly easy to replace everything with good quality new stuff and stay within your budget. You'd still keep your keyboard, mouse, and monitor but everything else would be new.
  7. Quote:
    The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.


    Lol, why can't I use the old power supply? I'm not trying to question you, I'm just curious.
  8. If going with k1114's build, save even more money by getting 1333 memory ... that mainboard cannot use 1600 at its full speed.

    My build suggestion:
    Intel i5-2500
    ASRock P67 Pro3 (SATA3 and USB3 for future expansion, can use 1600 at full speed)
    4GB 2x2GB G.Skill 1600 CL9
    Sapphire Radeon 6950 1GB
    Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
    Samsung SATA DVD burner
    Cooler Master HAF 912 case
    Corsair TX650 V2
    Win7 Home Premium w/SP1 64-bit OEM
    Total: $969 before rebates
  9. Quote:
    The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.


    Lol, why can't I use the old power supply? I'm not trying to question you, I'm just curious.[/quot


    Ahemmm,,A 5 yr old 300watt psu simply will not cut it today , most decent video cards have either 1 or 2 , 6 pin connectors along their edge, suggest you consider an OCZ Stealth X Extream 600w, check out the review at WWW.Hardwaresecrets.com , you will have to do a little digging, being in the US should give you a good price selection...:)
  10. Best answer selected by Victoriousness.
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