Read Several Guides - More Confused Than Ever

[Victoriousness]

I'm trying to build a relatively inexpensive gaming machine. This is my first time trying to build a computer myself, so I still have a lot to learn. Right now I'm still shopping around for the components.

This is the motherboard that I'm considering buying:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813153205

From that site, I know that I need 240pin DDR3 1333. From the manufacturer site, it says DDR3 1333/1066. From what I've read in the guides, a higher number is better, correct? So I would want the 1333 over the 1066. So far so good.

So I go over to newegg's memory section and things start to get complicated. DDR3 1333 also comes in PC3 10600, PC3 10660, or PC3 10666. In addition, I need to choose a CAS Latency of either 7, 8, 9, or 10. Again from the guides, my understanding is that PC3 ##### is better higher, and CAS Latency is better lower. But when I click on CAS Latency 7, all the filter results are DDR3 1066 PC3 8500.

Now I'm super, super confused. For my purposes, should I be choosing a lower CAS Latency or a higher DDR3 #### and PC3 #####?

 

[Leaps-from-Shadows]

The 10600/10660/10666 numbers all refer to the theoretical maximum bandwidth of the memory. For whatever reason, some manufacturers use different numbers for the theoretical bandwidth. They all run at 1333MHz effective speed, so they are all the same.

I found nine total 1333MHz CL7 kits:
Five 4GB (2x2GB) 10600 CL7 kits
One 4GB (2x2GB) 10660 CL7 kit
Three 4GB (2x2GB) 10666 CL7 kits

 

[Victoriousness]

Thanks for the response. I was only looking at single 4GB sticks, so I totally missed those kits that you listed. Do you or anyone else know if CL7 offers a big performance boost over CL9? In other words, is the added expense worth the performance boost?

 

[k1114]

For gaming, it won't make a difference. It would be beneficial if you fill this out. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261222-31-build-advice

 

[Leaps-from-Shadows]

The difference in most cases is just a few percentage points. Where it seems to make the most difference is in the minimum frame rate when gaming. The average frame rate and maximum frame rate are about the same, but the minimum frame rate increases a bit when using RAM with lower timings. Whether you will actually notice it or not depends entirely on the game.

Would I spend the extra money? Nope.

 

[Victoriousness]

For gaming, it won't make a difference. It would be beneficial if you fill this out. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261222-31-build-advice

Approximate Purchase Date: this week

Budget Range: $800-$1,000 After Rebates

System Usage from Most to Least Important: surfing internet, gaming, watching movies, MS office

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, case, DVD-rom, and power supply

More power supply info: Antec SU-380 380W max.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: No preference, just whatever is cheaper and isn't a scam.

Country of Origin: Me or the computer? I'm living in the USA, and I don't mind if the parts are manufactured elsewhere.

Parts Preferences: No preference

Overclocking: No

SLI or Crossfire: These are for running two video cards at the same time, right? No, probably not gonna do that.

Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050

Additional Comments: I want to save money by using a case and power supply that is approximately ten years old, but in good condition. I looked up the old motherboard dimensions, and they're about the same as the ones that are made today. Is there any reason I should avoid re-using this old stuff?

 

[Leaps-from-Shadows]

The case you can most likely re-use. The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.

Note that not all mainboards come with PATA ports. If that DVD drive isn't SATA, you have to specifically look for one of the mainboards that comes with the older port.

It should be fairly easy to replace everything with good quality new stuff and stay within your budget. You'd still keep your keyboard, mouse, and monitor but everything else would be new.

 

[Victoriousness]

The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.

Lol, why can't I use the old power supply? I'm not trying to question you, I'm just curious.

 

[k1114]

I looked up the psu and it looks like it came out 5 yrs ago. But you'll need more power for these parts and can easily fit a new one in your budget.

You can go with a 6950 rather than a 560 if you'd like. Idk if that dvd drive is sata but the mobos with pata cost more than just buying a new dvd drive.

■LG CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model GH22NS70 OEM - OEM
■Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
■MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
■Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
■G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
■ASRock H61ICAFE LGA 1155 Intel H61 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
■Intel Core i5-2400 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.4GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52400
■Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit English 1-Pack - OEM
TOTAL: $802.25 Shipping Included. Before MIR.

 

[Leaps-from-Shadows]

If going with k1114's build, save even more money by getting 1333 memory ... that mainboard cannot use 1600 at its full speed.

My build suggestion:
Intel i5-2500
ASRock P67 Pro3 (SATA3 and USB3 for future expansion, can use 1600 at full speed)
4GB 2x2GB G.Skill 1600 CL9
Sapphire Radeon 6950 1GB
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
Samsung SATA DVD burner
Cooler Master HAF 912 case
Corsair TX650 V2
Win7 Home Premium w/SP1 64-bit OEM
Total: $969 before rebates

 

[k1114]

The 1600 cl9 currently cost the same as the 1333 cl9 so it might downclock to cl8 but even if it didnt, it's still the same price.

Edit: Might as well post what's in my other shopping cart.
■LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - OEM
■SAPPHIRE 100312-1GSR Radeon HD 6950 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
■Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit English 1-Pack - OEM
■Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
■MSI P67A-C43 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
■Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
■Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
■Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm ...
■G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-4GBXM
■BYTECC 6 ft. 18AWG Power Cord w/ 3 Conductor PC Power Connector – Black Model POWERCORD-6K
TOTAL: $899.34 Shipping Included. Before MIR.

 

[dokk2]

The power supply? H-E-double-hockey-stick no. Don't even think about it.

Lol, why can't I use the old power supply? I'm not trying to question you, I'm just curious.[/quot


Ahemmm,,A 5 yr old 300watt psu simply will not cut it today , most decent video cards have either 1 or 2 , 6 pin connectors along their edge, suggest you consider an OCZ Stealth X Extream 600w, check out the review at WWW.Hardwaresecrets.com , you will have to do a little digging, being in the US should give you a good price selection...

 

[Victoriousness]

Best answer selected by Victoriousness.