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Samsung 1.5TB Died

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October 25, 2012 3:33:19 PM

Hi Guys


I am in big trouble, I had A surge inside the PC, PSU BLEW UP and the backplane for hotswap busted, this wrecked 2 of my hard disks, 2 out of 4.


I saw a smoke coming from one the seagate hdd, so I have ordered a PCB replacement tor data recovery. This is my most important drive



My OS is on the samsung 1.5TB

It's not powering up. I followed the instruction of cutting the TVS diode, and still not powering up.

I cannot find the PCD model or where to look.


I have uploaded these 4 pictures. if something could help me to identify, this will be fantastics.

http://postimage.org/image/qz7l06d1h/

http://postimage.org/image/6nv9ui3r9/

http://postimage.org/image/z20pedrb9/


http://postimage.org/image/monv7h1mt/

http://s10.postimage.org/lza4s87ev/P1100385.jpg

More about : samsung 5tb died

a b G Storage
October 25, 2012 4:22:01 PM

+1 dead drive; not much you can do I guess unless you know someone who has recovery hardware equipement
October 25, 2012 4:30:11 PM

dextermat said:
+1 dead drive; not much you can do I guess unless you know someone who has recovery hardware equipement



A bit of trouble. I saw some site that are selling samsung PCB, but problem I do not how to check the PCB on the samsung. From the above pictures, I am hoping some could help to identify the PCB for that samsung drive

I know I am in really trouble, that seagate is where most of the back ups are, and managed to order a PCB from an Hong Kong supplier.
Related resources
a c 316 G Storage
October 26, 2012 5:14:08 AM

A straight PCB swap rarely works for modern drives. Most modern HDDs store unique, drive specific "adaptive" information in a serial EEPROM chip. This chip, or its contents, needs to be transferred from patient to donor.

The following PCB suppliers offer a firmware transfer service, either for free, or for US$10:

http://www.donordrives.com
http://www.onepcbsolution.com
http://www.hdd-parts.com

I would advise that you avoid those suppliers who don't tell you that a board won't work without modification. Often they will attempt to obscure the requirement for a firmware transfer by deceptively describing their products as being "for data recovery only".

Alternatively, if you are not adept at soldering, your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to transfer the chip for you.

Some PCBs (including yours) do not have a discrete serial flash memory chip. Instead they store the adaptive data inside the Marvell MCU (the largest chip). In this case you will need a "PCB adaptation" service.

The following PCB supplier includes such a service for free:
http://www.donordrives.com/services

In your case the problem still looks like a TVS diode. I suspect that the zero-ohm link in the following photo is open circuit, in which case the solution is to flow a blob of solder over it, or replace it with a wire link.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD204UI_TVS.jpg

BTW, I don't know which instructions you followed, but I have a guide:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

Before removing any component, I provide detailed instructions on how to test it with a multimeter. Did you do that, and if so, which diode, if any, was shorted?
Anonymous
October 26, 2012 7:38:22 AM

I know this hurts, but you do have backups..right!
October 26, 2012 12:05:20 PM

That Backup seagate got killed.

The OS was on the samsung
October 26, 2012 12:13:44 PM

Hello


Thank your response. I got an exact PCB for the samsung, with same firmware. Do I need still to transfer that adaptive information to the samsung PCB even they have exact the same firmware?



As for the seagate HDD I got the PCB same rev, but I am not sure about the firmware.
from donordrive, it says for seagate barracuda 7200.1 a straight swap will work .

worst case scenario I could send both PCB to have the firmware copied from the dead pcb to the donor ones? right.


when I get the parts shall I swap them or send them to have the adaptive information copied?






fzabkar said:
A straight PCB swap rarely works for modern drives. Most modern HDDs store unique, drive specific "adaptive" information in a serial EEPROM chip. This chip, or its contents, needs to be transferred from patient to donor.

The following PCB suppliers offer a firmware transfer service, either for free, or for US$10:

http://www.donordrives.com
http://www.onepcbsolution.com
http://www.hdd-parts.com

I would advise that you avoid those suppliers who don't tell you that a board won't work without modification. Often they will attempt to obscure the requirement for a firmware transfer by deceptively describing their products as being "for data recovery only".

Alternatively, if you are not adept at soldering, your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to transfer the chip for you.

Some PCBs (including yours) do not have a discrete serial flash memory chip. Instead they store the adaptive data inside the Marvell MCU (the largest chip). In this case you will need a "PCB adaptation" service.

The following PCB supplier includes such a service for free:
http://www.donordrives.com/services

In your case the problem still looks like a TVS diode. I suspect that the zero-ohm link in the following photo is open circuit, in which case the solution is to flow a blob of solder over it, or replace it with a wire link.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD204UI_TVS.jpg

BTW, I don't know which instructions you followed, but I have a guide:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

Before removing any component, I provide detailed instructions on how to test it with a multimeter. Did you do that, and if so, which diode, if any, was shorted?

a c 316 G Storage
October 26, 2012 11:12:07 PM

Please answer my previous questions.

I also have an additional question. Wot is a "barracuda 7200.1"?
October 27, 2012 8:22:38 AM

fzabkar said:
Please answer my previous questions.

I also have an additional question. Wot is a "barracuda 7200.1"?




Hello

Seagate barracuda 7200.1 1.5TB


Unfortunately I did not have any multi-meter, your instruction steps is to test the diode. But as most people cutting the 12V diode worked, so I decided to go ahead and wish myself luck. It did not power up :( . BUt that diode as you said is just a protector, no second chance if something goes wrong.


After cutting the diode, I tested the samsung drive with an external Sata enclosure with a different computer. No power up or spinning

I tested the seagate HHD too, which I saw smoke coming from the pcb, and no spins


Tested 2 other drives and they powered up and were recognised and data were accessed

So too of the drives are dead , 2 survive.


That samsung HDD contained only a few files, but the seagate one is where all the documents and pictures are, that's the one ir more precious to me. Funny thing, I have to NAS, and they full

a c 316 G Storage
October 27, 2012 8:48:12 PM

I still think that the situation may be salvageable for $0.

Firstly, there is no such thing as a "barracuda 7200.1 1.5TB". It would be either a 7200.11 or a 7200.12, but I can't find a 1.5TB model in the 7200.12 lineup, so it's most likely a ST31500341AS.

If so, then there are two TVS diodes near the SATA power connector. One will most probably be shorted.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/SEAGATE-BARRACUDA-7200-11-ST3150...$(KGrHqR,!pwF!MDFKZWnBQJoFf6SjQ~~60_3.JPG

Your Samsung board has a zero-ohm resistor that feeds the 5V supply.

My photo shows a similar resistor, but in the 12V circuit:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD204UI_TVS.jpg

After you have measured the resistances of the TVS diodes and the zero-ohm resistor, I will be able to advise you further. A photo of the Seagate would be helpful since the smoke damage may be visible.

BTW, the 7200.11 and 7200.12 families all require chip swaps when replacing boards. The Samsung probably falls into that category as well.
October 28, 2012 9:36:56 AM

Hello fzabkar

Thanks for your patience.

Firstly for Samsung, I have cut both TVS diode , and tested the unit with external sata enclosure. After cutting each diode I tested the drive, and it was not recognized or heard any clicking.

I did nothing else, and already order a spare PCB, but now I understand that the firmware needs to be transferred by the adaptive method.

I did not see any smoke coming this drive.

Should I continue of the measuring the Zero Ohm resistor although both diode have been cut off and thrown ? I will pop to a TV shop tomorrow.






As for the Seagate I saw the smoke originating from the SATA connectors on that PCB. I did not take that PCB out yet to inspect the other side, as I do not have any TORX screw driver. I bought a set on ebay last Thursday, so it should be with me in the next few days.

My apologies , yes the model is ST31500341AS, barracuda 7200.11 1500gb


Once the PCB is removed I will upload the pictures for you to have a look.


Really do appreciate your help, and enjoy your sunday
a c 316 G Storage
October 28, 2012 8:27:44 PM

The zero-ohm resistor acts like a fuse. If the 5V TVS diode shorts out, then the fuse blows. You need to remove the diode AND bridge the "fuse".
October 29, 2012 9:21:52 AM

fzabkar said:
The zero-ohm resistor acts like a fuse. If the 5V TVS diode shorts out, then the fuse blows. You need to remove the diode AND bridge the "fuse".



Hello Fzabkar


Ok I am going to bridge that resistor. can you please confirm if that the zero ohm resistor? The one I am pointing with a pen. If for some miracle it does work, do you think I could just get new diodes or simply dump the HDD after I back it up.

Do you know the diode models by any chance?



http://postimage.org/image/l350fcz3r/
a c 316 G Storage
October 29, 2012 2:03:11 PM

Yes, that is the resistor. I wouldn't completely trust the HDD afterwards, but I wouldn't throw it away either.

As for suitable replacement diodes, read my FAQ.
October 30, 2012 7:02:34 AM

Thanks Fzabkar.


I am will deal these 2 hard disks in the next few days, and will keep you updated. Once the Torx screw drivers come, I will take out the PCB for the seagate one, and look for burn marks
a c 316 G Storage
October 30, 2012 7:44:08 AM

If the Seagate's 5V TVS diode is burnt, then this would support the idea that the Samsung's resistor may be open. If you are careful, then you could bridge the resistor with a pair of sharp pointed tweezers, eg ...

http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/sh/shavata-p...

If the drive now spins up, then you could engage your local TV repair shop to flow a blob of solder over the resistor.
October 30, 2012 11:55:52 AM

Fzabar

Good news. I bridged the samsung resistor, and it powered up. I managed to access drive . I parked the drive and securing it till. I am ordering replacement HDD now.


I am so happy it worked.


Now just waiting for the Torx screw driver and check the seagate PCB properly. Thank you so much.

Unfortunately the seagate one is the place where all pictures are kept, so hopefully I strike lucky. Once I get the torx , I will upload the PCB pcitures. I am a bit anxious about this one
October 30, 2012 2:29:24 PM

What PSU did you use?
October 30, 2012 2:58:53 PM

iixwh3l4nxii said:
What PSU did you use?



Here's the picture of the PSU model


http://postimage.org/image/4gl8sj0hx/

http://postimage.org/image/b8bnvdphh/

http://postimage.org/image/46dq96lvp/




It came with this machine

http://computershopper.com/desktops/reviews/hp-blackbir... , model 2009


It blew up the anti-surge intelligent gang

I thought the power surge coming from home electricity supply, so I powered it without the anti -surge it blew all the house fuses :( , but that was fixable and no other electronic was affected.

A technician changed the PSU for me, but 2 of the HDD affected. Fzabkar is helping me to get my pictures back.



a c 316 G Storage
October 30, 2012 5:46:51 PM

Apparently Topower PSUs have lots of problems:
http://www.google.com.au/search?q=%22topower%22+site%3A...

I suspect that there may be a short circuit on the AC side of the PSU, possibly shorted rectifier diodes or a shorted chopper transistor.

Good luck with the Seagate.
November 1, 2012 8:42:57 AM

Good Morning Fzabkar


I got the torx screw driver finally, had a massive migraine yesterday, so I did not attempt it

Topower they said, it's out warranty that's it. Did not care it blew up everything in my property



Seagate Problem
There's a chip that burnt on the pCB , please tell it's not the PCB firmware chip.

My nightmare got worst, just found out a 8TB HP NAS filed got corrupted when that PSU blew up the house fuses. The data are on raid 5, some expert from HP is going to phone to help me. That TOpower PSU has caused me so much trouble.

Please see the pictures for Saegate PCB



http://s18.postimage.org/d7d27qoaw/DSC05696.jpg



http://s18.postimage.org/eax6jp8y0/DSC05697.jpg
a c 316 G Storage
November 1, 2012 10:13:15 AM

The serial flash memory is the 8-pin chip marked "25FW406A" near the jumper block and at the lower right corner of the LSI MCU. It doesn't have any visible damage.

However, the damaged chip appears to be a FETKY that is associated with the -5V supply for the preamp on the head stack inside the drive. This means that there is a serious possibility that the preamp may be damaged, in which case a data recovery would involve a head swap. This would cost around US$800 plus parts.

That said, I recently saw a thread where the damage was very similar, but in that case the user was able to repair his drive with a PCB swap (and firmware transfer). Hopefully you will be lucky, too.

PS. Some surge protectors are bundled with $10K or more of insurance coverage for the protected equipment. Some home contents policies also insure against damage sustained during a power surge. Are you absolutely sure your Topower supply was not damaged by an external event? Have a look inside your PSU and see if there is a damaged MOV on the AC side. MOVs fail when subjected to a sustained overvoltage. They are 2-pin, thin, disc shaped devices, around 10mm in diameter.

November 1, 2012 10:42:52 AM

Hi Fzabkar

It was definitely the PSU.

When I took the unit to computer repair job, it blew all their fuses too. I told them the problem (blowing my fuses), but they did no read the memo attached to case when tested.


I emailed the surge protecter manufacturer and no respond. Maybe I could add this on my home content insurance, but priority is to get that seagate working.

I am still waiting for that donor PCB to come from Hong kong, then I will transfer the firmware.

It's a total nightmare as now it comes in realisation that 8TB NAS fully loaded could be gone too, it was attached to a different power source, I guess a power surge caused unscheduled shutdown etc

For the time being, I am dealing with matter at a time. get those 2 HDD sorted then I move to the NAS
November 10, 2012 11:15:54 AM

Hi Fzabar


Still waiting for the PCB for the seagate from Hong Kong. It should be sometimes this week.

The 8TB NAS is sorted now, got sorted from WD support. It needed maintenance after the surge all good on this side. Once I get the seagate PCB shall I give a go without transferring the firmware? What do you think..

That HDD is still under warranty, I get it replace, and tell them in advance I had to go a data recovery before changing the unit to them
a c 316 G Storage
November 10, 2012 5:42:01 PM

The Seagate board needs a firmware transfer. AIUI there is no chance that a direct swap will work. Normally the new board would just cause the drive to spin up and click without being detected. However, in your case there is a serious possibly that a shorted preamp may kill the new board. You could take some precautionary measurements with a multimeter, but you seem averse to this.

November 10, 2012 7:17:30 PM

Thanks.

I will be doing everything by the books , precaution not to damage it further.


Thanks for your input, you are real gem for us newbies in data recovering disaster. saving everyone a lot.
November 14, 2012 5:59:30 PM

Hi fzabkar


The donor pcb for the seagate got delivered today. I will try to get the bios swap in a TV repair shop this week hopefully. I will give you an update if the Seagate HDD get rescued, and if the PCB transfer (with transferred bios) will do the trick.

I am still sorting the catastrophe, and still backing everything on a NAS now, doing things in small bits, so that I do not botch things up. Maybe I will even wait till next week, before I attempt powering the seagate when the bios has been transferred to the donor pcb.

Thanks
November 15, 2012 6:42:06 PM

Hi Fzabkar

The TV repair could not do it, they do not have the proper equipment and they were worried that could burn the bio chip from the original PCB. Do you know where I could get this transferred ? I am really not in rush, as long I know it can be sorted.


Thanks in advance


November 15, 2012 7:36:01 PM

Thank you Fzabkar

I will email them, and ask for the procedure for shipping. I will get them to do it.
November 22, 2012 11:29:47 AM

Hello Fzabar

As I did cut the TVS diodes on the Samsung and bridge the zero ohm resistor and my problem was solved.

I do not want to throw a 2TB HDD away, it could be used for something. I have managed to back up all what was needed from it. Unfortunately this HDD is not longer on warranty

I was wondering if you have the diodes model for this Samsung. I will try and solder new diodes on the PCB.


The seagate original and Donor PCB has been posted to that company for the bios transplant. So hopefully it will come back in 2 weeks or so, then I will finalize the recovery process, it's been a long 7 weeks already since that disaster hit me. The sea-gate HDD is still under warranty so this will be replaced
November 23, 2012 12:59:35 PM

Thanks Fzabkar

I got them on ebay £3.70 including 2 diodes for each models




Thanks again
a c 316 G Storage
November 23, 2012 4:32:18 PM

I wouldn't bother replacing the resistor. Seagate drives don't use them, so they rely on the short circuit protection within the external power supply. Similarly, your PCB has a resistor for the 5V diode but not for the 12V.
November 24, 2012 11:21:34 AM

Hello

Diodes came, and they been soldered in the right place, and in the right direction. Samsung HDD is working fine and and recognised.


Thanks
December 9, 2012 11:19:21 AM

Hi Fzabkar

Update. I got the bios transplanted from original PCB with donor PCB e.g the same version.

I did fit the PCB back to that seagate HDD. Power it up. Unfortunately it's is not being recognised.

I can hear the ticking noise though. Do you have an idea, what else I could try? I can feel the disk is rotating in the drive
a c 316 G Storage
December 9, 2012 1:40:50 PM

It appears that the preamp on the head stack may be damaged. :-(

I'm assuming that the drive is indeed spinning and that the sound you are hearing is a relatively loud repetitive clicking rather than very soft ticking. A clicking sound is indicative of the heads sweeping across the drive looking for servo information. A ticking sound, OTOH, is what you would expect if the heads were stuck to the platters and the motor were unable to spin.

This page has some sound samples from failing drives:
http://datacent.com/hard_drive_sounds.php

The stiction sound should be the same as the "seized spindle" sound. I expect that a faulty preamp would sound similar to the "bad heads" sample.
December 9, 2012 4:00:50 PM

The sounds I was hearing is definitely one of those 2. I am currently backing some more stuck. I will have a listen when there's less noise. I have a HDD enclosure so I will try to record the noise in a quiet room. The drive is definitely spinning, I could feel it


Does a pre-amp damage means only way to retrieve data is thru a data recovery centre?



Seagate desktop drive with bad heads slowly clicks and beeps on spin up.

Seagate laptop drive with bad heads making clicking/knocking sound.
a c 316 G Storage
December 9, 2012 5:20:49 PM

Since the preamp is on the head stack, this means you will need to engage a data recovery company to swap the heads and recover your data. That said, if you are in North America, then you shouldn't pay more than US$800 plus parts. In the Eurozone you can get it done for US$340, in other countries maybe less.

See http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html

... and ...

http://en.rlab.ru/doc/images/hdd_main_parts/arm.jpg
http://en.rlab.ru/doc/images/hdd_main_parts/HSA.jpg
http://en.rlab.ru/doc/images/hdd_main_parts/preamp.jpg
December 9, 2012 5:33:11 PM

Thanks Fzabkar

You have been of great help to me. I am based in UK. I will keep the HDD and when ready, I will get it sorted at a later stage. Really appreciate all your inputs.

Once again thank you.
January 31, 2013 10:37:25 AM

tomsfans said:
For Samsung PCB swap, just need the donor PCB has the same board number as yours. The board number is etched on the PCB, begin with BF41-. From the photos, we know the board number is BF41-00206B, the donor PCB is http://www.harddrivepcb.com/samsung-pcb-bf4100206b-p-23...



I have done the PCB swap and then the bios.

It's a no go for me.


The pre-amp on the Head maybe dead .

I am off on business Indonesia this December, and it will cost about £50 to get the recovery done or I will do in Malaysia for £70 this December.

The estimates cost here is £450 but I am not doing here. It's my pictures and videos on this HDD, so I have kept the HDD in a safe place for the time being and deal with it on business trip to S.E asia
June 18, 2013 9:34:54 PM

Good Day Everyone.. I was following this guide with my Samsung 1TB. Drive would not spin up.. tested diodes were in fact bad. snipped them off.. BUT when I bridge the zero ohm resister, the power wires get hot quickly! any suggestions?

Only the 5v Red and Black wires get hot, not 12v..
a c 316 G Storage
June 18, 2013 11:21:49 PM

Were both diodes shorted? Was the resistor open circuit?

What resistances do you measure now?
June 19, 2013 7:43:32 AM

I found it.. with the pins facing up.. Just below the TVS diodes there is a green component, I believe another type of diode.. I noticed that it too was getting very hot.. I clipped it off and low and behold the drive spun up and I can access the data :)  Thank god you guys had these posts! awesome! I'll try to post a photo so you all can see..

Thanks
October 11, 2013 8:03:27 AM

fzabkar said:

In your case the problem still looks like a TVS diode. I suspect that the zero-ohm link in the following photo is open circuit, in which case the solution is to flow a blob of solder over it, or replace it with a wire link.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD204UI_TVS.jpg

BTW, I don't know which instructions you followed, but I have a guide:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

Before removing any component, I provide detailed instructions on how to test it with a multimeter. Did you do that, and if so, which diode, if any, was shorted?


Just wanted to jump on this older thread and say a big THANKS! to fzabkar. My HDD would not power on and would not let anything in my computer power on if it was plugged in to power. All the symptoms of the TVS diode thing basically. I clipped the diode that was shorted and was able to get the drive running again and get access to my data. Thanks very much for your great explanation and pictures!

Tom
December 1, 2013 10:06:41 AM

fzabkar

I will be getting that sea-gate hopefully recovery in S.E Asia, heading there in 2 weeks. I got a company in Malaysia asking about £150, I can live with that.

it's been more than 14 months since that bloody disaster luckily for me about 95% of that drive was backed up.

Lesson learnt auto backup twice daily to A NAS


!