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$1300 Gaming Build (With existing parts; actual value $1500+)

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August 7, 2010 9:35:52 AM

(Edit: Build has been modified - the link takes you to the new build.)

My build: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx...
I was originally going to build an i5 based computer with the 5850 at the beginning of the summer, but I had issues with my address. Now I'm making an i7 based one, with the GTX 460.

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: within the week

BUDGET RANGE: Around $1500

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming, Matlab/Data Analysis, Internet, Movies.

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Keyboard, Mouse, Monitor, Case, Optical Drives, Floppy Drive (lol), Hard Drive (have 2 500gbs and one 80 gb). HOWEVER, I am looking into a new monitor and keyboard. Depending on what happens, I may be looking for a capacity hard drive as well?

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: newegg.com

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: U.S.

PARTS PREFERENCES: by best part available for the money

OVERCLOCKING: Yes. Hopefully i7-930 to 4Ghz.

SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Yes. Eventually, double GTX 460s

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1680x1050, may be getting a 1920x1200 in the near future.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I want to overclock, but this is my first full build and I do not know what I am doing. Is the cooling I chose sufficient? Will everything fit together?

Here is my build, in case you missed it the first time around!
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx...

The gist of it:
i7-930 $289.99
Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R $209.99
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 $249.99
OCZ Vertex 2 60GB SSD $164.00 (after MIR)
G.SKILL 6GB DDR3 1333 $149.99 (wtf RAM prices)
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus $49.99
CORSAIR HX Series 850W PSU $159.99 (after MIR)

Total: About $1274

As for the stuff I already have:
Thermaltake Armor Jr.
Logitech Wave Pro Keyboard/MX1100
Logitech G9x
2 500GB 7200 RPM drives
80GB ancient drive
DVDRW Combo drive
Ancient floppy drive
Samsung 22" SyncMaster 226BW (1680x1050)

Extras:
I may be looking for a microphone and webcam. Also a gaming headset. Do I need to get some kind of 2.5" mounting for my SSD? What's the best gaming keyboard under $100? Best 1 or 2TB hard drive, value-wise? I've seen lots of people using the Samsung Spinpoint.
August 7, 2010 5:58:08 PM

Your choice of components looks very good.
The CM Hyper 212+ is a good choice just not from Newegg it cost $20 more then anywhere else.
Read up on the Mobo it's tricky setting up drives on it.(raid)good mobo though.
All you need is a HX 750 save another $30.
A couple of faster ram kits 1600CL7
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submi...
I recently bought a Logitech G110 KB and must say it's very nice and priced well under $100.
It's cheaper then that on sale i got mine for $60 Canadian free shipping from Newegg.ca.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Just recently released is the G510 its big brother same KB but features a LCD and some new backlight colours.
If you like the G510 wait till it's been out for a bit cuz that's the manufacturers list price.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...



I would say 1TB hdd are priced the best and the F3 is a great choice or any comparable WD Black or Seagate.
Whichever is on sale.
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August 7, 2010 6:18:48 PM

Good build! But, after reading THIS review, I would go for SLI'ing two of the cheaper 460's now.

You really only need a 650 watt PSU to do that, I would get this PSU to be safe and save $20.

If you get two of these GTX460 it would cost you $400 now, instead of $500 for the one you chose. It will handle all games at 1920x1200.

In other words, getting the 750 watt PSU and the $199 460 saves you around $65 which you can apply to another 460!
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August 7, 2010 7:37:28 PM

Thanks for the great suggestions! I'm modifying the build as we speak.
As for the RAM, it says my mobo choice only supports DDR3 2200/1333/1066/800. My alternative mobo choice was this one, for $30 more:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
ASUS P6X58D-E LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
It was really hard to choose one or the other, because both mobos seem like good value. Should I go with this one instead, which does support 1600?
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August 7, 2010 8:59:15 PM

A couple suggestions,

I bought the UD3R and it was DOA. Had to wait an extra week on my build cause I bought the P6X58D and refunded the UD3R.

The Spinpoint is a great drive.

The Intel X-25M is a great SSD.

If you are going to overclock, buy some higher speed RAM, i.e. 1600. Just because 1600 isn't on the mobo list, doesn't mean it doesn't "support" it. What that means is that it will support the standard speeds of 800, 1066, and 1333, but overclocks up to 2200. This is what I used for my build if you want to use G.Skill. The memory suggestions Davcon made are good too, those actually have higher voltage specs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Also, IMHO ATI GPU's are better than NVidia for gaming, I like the 5870, but that's just me.
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August 7, 2010 9:25:50 PM

Since you plan on overclocking, that build is a fitting choice. However, I'd say the PSU is a bit of an overkill. Even on an SLI setup and OC'ing at 4ghz, you really won't need something over the 750W range. Here, take a few minutes and calculate your wattage requirements: http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp

Also, if you're already taking the plunge into high-end gaming, I really do recommend getting a larger monitor. It may be because I'm too used to my current monitor, but gaming at 1680x1050 seems like a waste of gaming power to me.

And, oh yeah - the Spinpoint F3 1TB is a fantastic drive.
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August 7, 2010 10:50:36 PM

Thanks for the replies, again! I've gone with the lower PSU now. Good to know about the RAM. Did you get the P6X58D-E or the P6X58D Premium? I may go with the P6X58D-E to be safe, rather than the UD3R.

If I do stay with the UD3R, does that mean if I buy 1600 RAM, it should be run as 1333 or overclocked to 2200? (sorry for newbish questions)

About the x-25m vs Vertex 2 - the price per gigabyte is nearly the same (Vertex $2.733/GB, with rebate, and X-25M $2.688/GB), so I figured I'd go with the faster one.

I intend to get a larger monitor in the future. 22" is just a tad too small for me. I'm looking for 1920x1200.

Again, thanks for the recommendations!
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August 7, 2010 11:26:49 PM

I have the ud3r and have no issues with it.. and it runs my mushkin redlines 6-8-6-23 at stock volts ( 1.65) oh i am running 4.3ghz 75C BUT the hyper 212 won't dissipate that much heat. depends on how far you want to overclock. the ud3r will run your ram at 1600 at least for redlines using the xmp profile
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August 8, 2010 1:04:32 AM

I ended up with the Premium. It has a great BIOS, I can't say for the other two. They are probably all great boards, but I just received a DOA UD3R from Newegg. I read the reviews after I bought it and realized it's kind of a crap shoot with that board. As long as you don't get a bad one...

1066 is the base memory speed, unless you increase the BCLK of your CPU, which is essentially overclocking. If you are overclocking, you can speed up your memory as fast as you want, up to 2200. Once you choose how fast you want to speed up your memory, then you buy RAM with a matching speed, but the faster sticks are more expensive. You could buy lower speed RAM sticks and run at a faster memory speed, this is essentially overclocking your memory, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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August 9, 2010 11:52:50 PM

Hi everyone, and thanks for all the help and suggestions! Here is my modified build!

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx...

I've added a 1920x1200 monitor, changed the RAM to 1600, and added a cheap wifi adapter. I'll also buy the CM Hyper 212+ somewhere else (saw it for $24).

As for the gaming keyboard, I will wait and see what deals come up for gaming keyboards on my rss feeds. For now, I will use my normal keyboard.

I'm still torn on whether to get the cheaper GTX 460 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... or the more expensive ones. On the one hand, the speeds aren't wildly different. On the other hand, I do like faster components and the more expensive one has a lifetime warranty. Is it worth the $40-$50 difference? Note: (I'm not buying 2 right away.)

At the moment, I am leaning towards the cheaper ones, because I figure in 2-3 years I could just upgrade to a future videocard. I'm still unsure though. Any input?
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August 10, 2010 5:41:37 PM

I would rather get a cheap HD 5850 than an expensive GTX 460.
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