Merely matching the PCB part number is usually not enough for WD drives. It is not the serial number that makes your PCB unique.
Most modern HDDs store unique, drive specific "adaptive" information in a serial EEPROM chip. This chip, or its contents, needs to be transferred from patient to donor. In WD drives, this chip is usually located at U12.
The following PCB suppliers offer a firmware transfer service, either for free, or for US$10:
I would advise that you avoid those suppliers who don't tell you that a board won't work without modification. Often they will attempt to obscure the requirement for a firmware transfer by deceptively describing their products as being "for data recovery only".
Alternatively, if you are not adept at soldering, your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to transfer the chip for you.
Onepcbsolution.com also offer a firmware transfer service for US$20 if you have purchased your board from a different supplier:
Thanks a lot fzabkar that was a lot helpful. here's my example:
2061 701590-l00 01p XC xxxx xxxx x xxxxxxx xxxx
the underlined code is what's after XC to the end.
Please note that I replaced the real code with xs as I don't know what that code stands for, is that the part number you where refering to ?
Therefore you will require a "PCB adaptation service". In the event that the "adaptives" cannot be retrieved from your dead board, then a backup copy, if its exists, will need to be recovered from the hidden System Area on the platters.
Thanks.. It doesn't start or spin or anything. That happened after I connected it to electricity using an external SATA to USB connector. I heard a tiny bang near the plug and then the connector died, well I don't care of coarse considering what happened to the drive. I went to this electronics guy who exchanged the PCB with another one and did some software voodoo (but he did not connect the old PCB, as I can recall) and then it started and I found my data. relieved as I was, still I was reluctant to buy it since the code on the board doesn't exactly match his own, I was concerned that it might damage any of the interior parts of the hard drive and make the problem worse, since the data is very important to me. so I switched back, and waited for professionals' opinion. Still I'm curious what does the rest of the code mean?
Thanks greatly for your help..
So as I figured out, of what u posted is that if the first three groups match, that's enough to confirm PCB compatibility, I guess that his board matches my first 2 groups. So do you think I should go with the board. And what do you mean that a 5% chance that a straight board swap will work.. Is my data in danger here ? or was there any damage caused to any internal part?
Shouldn't the TVS sacrifice it self in order that no more damage goes through ? Considering another symptom that a slight amount of heat is generated near the power source on the board when connected after the damage..
The PCB and HDA (Head/Disc Assembly) are calibrated as a unit at the factory. The calibration data are stored in the flash memory on the PCB. Each head has different physical characteristics such as frequency response, amplification, separation between read and write elements. HDD manufacturers tune each head for maximum performance and minimum error rate. They also try to maximise data density by implementing Variable Bits Per Inch (VBPI) and Variable Tracks Per Inch (VTPI).
When a drive powers up, it tries to load its firmware from the hidden System Area (SA) on the platters. In order to find the SA, the drive needs to consult the adaptives in flash memory. If foreign adaptives are used, and if they are not in close tolerance with the original ones, then the drive will not be able to locate the SA. Instead it will click for a while and then fail to correctly identify itself.
If the drive does in fact manage to read the SA, then you may still not have complete, error free access to your data. There may be one or more heads that will be difficult to read, or there may be certain zones that are inaccessible. In such cases there is the risk that the drive will deem a sector to be bad, and then try to replace it with a spare. This means that the spare sector will be written in a slightly different location. The grown defect list (G-List) will also be updated. If there are too many new defects, then the G-list may overflow, resulting in worse problems.
So to answer your question, you won't do any physical damage by trying a replacement board. If it doesn't work, it will just click and give up.
As for the TVS diode, if the associated resistor has gone open circuit, then the board will probably have other damage. I won't be able to tell you any more until you measure something.
Thanks a lot for your well informed reply. It was greatly educational..
So I won't do any physical damage, and I guess electrical damage as well, so what about the data (which I don't have any back up of)? You said something about bad sectors..
The fact is I don't have any experience handling electrical tools, though I slightly understand how it works. So I will retreat a little bit in that area..
Do you have any advise regarding the board I found at the shop, and is there a way to confirm that all of my disk is accessible, just after the board is installed and not later when any long term damage has took place?
I wouldn't trust your drive with foreign "adaptives" for the reasons I have outlined. Watch the SMART data. If the Reallocated Sector Count begins to rise, or if the Raw Read Error Rate and other error rates begin to increase, then this will tend to confirm that the boards are not perfectly matched.
At the very least, backup your critical data. Afterwards you might try to repair your original board.
I've used everest to get SMART data today. I avoided using the hard drive as much as I could, fearing I'd lose any data as I don't know if it would mess it self up. I don't even know if it would be safe to copy that data and if it would land safely and correctly on my other drive since it possibly won't read things correctly or mess the data in the way (Am I accurate?). I also found something really weird, I compared my drive sizes with screen shots of the same thing which I took when I've just repaired the drive. I found that all of them has added up exactly 8192 bytes each.. I've just re-installed AVG antivirus which adds a file to each drive, or the recycle bin, so out of good faith I'd assume maybe it's the cause... Here are the results from everest: