Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Which power supply should I get

Last response: in Components
Share
November 15, 2010 7:58:53 PM

Hello people,

I have a problem regarding my power supply (Coolermaster Silent Pro 600W). The voltages are fluctuating constantly in the BIOS and also when I'm monitoring them with HWMonitor. This causes my computer to be highly unstable (freezing up, crashing etc.). I think this is because my power supply can't handle my PC.

I want to buy a new power supply but I want the best price/quality wise and I keep in mind an upgrade of my Graphics Card in the future with which I don't want to buy a new power supply again (NO SLI).


What follows are my current PC specs :

PROC: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 950 Socket 1336LGA @ 3.07GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.1GHz
http://azerty.nl/0-912-212478/processor-1-x-intel-core-i7-.html

MOBOAsus Rampage III Gene x58
http://azerty.nl/0-844-307295/asus-rampage-iii-gene-republic.html
BIOS: BIOS Date: 08/06/10 11:34:41 Ver: 08.00.15

GPUNVIDIA GeForce GTX 260 Display Memory: 4069 MB Dedicated Memory: 869 MB Shared Memory: 3199 MB

MEMORY4x 2GB Geil DDR3 1600MHZ PC12800 Memory (GV34GB1600C8DC)

HARDDRIVE Western Digital 1TB SATA 7200RPM

OPTICAL DVD +RW/-RW burner



What would be wise to buy as a power supply? Not too expensive please.

I know that my Geforce will need replacement in about a year or so, don't really have the money for it now and don't want to spend it either. I'm NOT! planning on going SLI, so I don't need the extra power for it.


Hope you guys can help me! :) 


ps. Sorry for the Dutch links, i wanted to make sure i didn't link the wrong Motherboard and CPU (hope the specs are still clear, IF YOU NEED MORE INFO JUST TELL ME)

More about : power supply

November 15, 2010 9:24:05 PM

Well i got a Coolermaster Silent Pro 600 Watts right now, does this simply mean my power supply is broken? I used this Antec program from a different topic and it tells me I need at least 720 Watts of power:

http://www.antec.outervision.com/PSUEngine

I don't know if the website is that coloured that it would give false data?

These are the voltages that HWMonitor gives me:

---------------------- Value --------------- Min --------------------- Max
CPU VCore ---------- 0.96V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.24V
VIN1 ----------------- 1.77V --------------- 1.76V --------------------- 1.77V
+3.3V ---------------- 3.34V --------------- 3.34V --------------------- 3.34V
+5V -----------------4.97V --------------- 4.97V --------------------- 4.97V
+12V ---------------11.43V --------------- 11.43V --------------------- 11.43V
VIN6 ---------------- 1.11V --------------- 1.11V --------------------- 1.11V

CPU Vcore constantly changes within range (however, the Min and Max also change. For instance now they are this and a few minutes lates it's Min = 0.96V and Max = 1.19V)
CPU Powers constantly change within range
CPU Currents constantly change within range
Processor Powers constantly changes within range

Does this mean the power supply is all well or is it broken, or not giving enough power (regarding the +12V = 11.43V)

Sorry for the questions but I don't want to buy something AGAIN that isn't broken (It could also be my Memory that is messing with my computer, so that could also be a reason why it's so unstable... but that's a guess..)

I have no clue about power supplies, since I've never really looked in to them. That's why i figured I'd give you this information

Thanks!
Related resources
a b ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 9:39:00 PM

Hi Slickzor, it looks like to me your 12v is way to low and the 5v is just a tiny bit below normal(or at least what I am use to seeing). A 600w PSU is more than enough power for your PC, as sportsfanboy said "All you need is a good quality 500w power supply". So it would appear to me that your PSU is expeirencing some kind of PSU problem or failure.
a c 243 ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 9:47:31 PM

You entered something wrong in the calculator.
You've used the software, get a DMM and double check the voltage manually.
November 15, 2010 9:48:19 PM

Hello Chief, Well i think i'm going to have to try a new power supply then. I got a 600 watts Maxdata at my parents home as well. Would it be wise to pick this up? I used it in an old PC (for which is was back then totally overpowered) which I don't use anymore. Shall i give that a try and if that doesn't work just buy a new one? Or is it not wise to put it in there in the first place?

I still have a warranty on my Coolermaster so I'm just going to return that one then since the voltages are too low. So, put in the Maxdata oldie and see if it runs smoothly or just get the Seasonic from Sportsfanboy?

EDIT: And there you go, great sign of my noobyness regarding power supplies haha. Anyways, what was the Wattage you got when filling it in delluser?

Appreciate all the help guys! Really! :) 
a b ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 10:00:00 PM

Well, first off I would not go on my word alone best wait for some more opinions, because I dont want to steer you wrong and I not 100% confident when it comes to saying whats a good voltage, I can only go on my little expierence with my own PC's.

It would be a good idea to try the spare PSU that you have as long as it was working ok when you stoped using it, it will not cause any problems or harm and it would be a good way to diagnose the problem, make sure to clean the dust out of it though. If the spare fixes it then you know for sure what was happening.

After that, Yes, get the Coolermaster replaced if your spare resolves the PC problems you have been having and your voltages look better.

The Seasonic that sportsfanboy listed is a nice PSU, Seasonic is at the top when it comes to making them, but dont buy one blindly without testing with your PC with the spare first.
a c 243 ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 10:05:39 PM

Slickzor said:
EDIT: what was the Wattage you got when filling it in delluser?

Didn't fill it in, no idea what other peripherals you may have, just know from having a similar base system.
November 15, 2010 10:06:08 PM

Thanks, that will help me a lot. I'm going to try the spare part then first(if it fits). I can get that Seasonic for 70 euro close by so that shouldn't be much of a problem.

I've replaced the CPU and Motherboard so it's out of the question that that's causing it. I've checked my DIMM's after 20 hours 2 of them gave 1 slight error in memtest. The others were fine. So i pulled the ones with the errors out (which left me with 4gb DDR3), same thing happened, computer was unstable. I really recon it's the power supply. I'll come back here as soon as I know for sure! Thanks a lot for the help!

Oke thanks delluser1
a c 91 ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 10:55:47 PM

The silent pro M600 is one of the better PSU's from the CoolerMaster camp.. However it does not do that good to lift them up to the standards of Seasonic (agree with thechief here that those +12V readings look very low).. The S12II 520W is an excellent PSU and will serve you well even when you opt for a better and more powerful video card.. Am not sure on you giving the Maxdata a try though.. Definitely not recommended
If you are not sure that its safe..

P.S. - Your ram setup is rather strange.. The X58 operates ram in triple channel configuration.. So you'll fetch better benefits while using a 3 x 2GB config rather than a 2 x 2GB or a 4 x 2GB config..
November 15, 2010 11:01:29 PM

Yeah it is strange that it doesn't work well indeed. I'll go for the S12II 520W if I can't get the maxdata to work. It worked perfectly with my former computer, I don't see why it's dangerous to put it in this one. Or is it really unwise to do so and might I be able to mess up my PC with it? In that case I go straight for the Seasonic.

I know it's triple channel, sucky part is, I bought these chips for a different motherboard which supported dual channel. Well, I'm just going to have to sell one or keep a spare one then I guess. I already thought it was a bit odd, thanks for pointing it out again :) .
a c 243 ) Power supply
November 15, 2010 11:14:36 PM

Slickzor said:
I know it's triple channel, sucky part is, I bought these chips for a different motherboard which supported dual channel. Well, I'm just going to have to sell one or keep a spare one then I guess. I already thought it was a bit odd, thanks for pointing it out again :) .

Your board supports 4 dimms in Tri channel mode, read the manual
November 16, 2010 1:15:11 PM

I read the manual, and it says that on page 21 indeed. But support and performance are different things... You think I should keep it this way then and just get a new power supply?
a c 243 ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 1:39:47 PM

The memory will perform the same, there's just more of it.
I don't trust software voltage readings, you'll find that to be the case with many of the veterans here, but a reading as low as what you are getting deserves a second opinion.
I think you should try to get your hands on a DMM and manually check the psu voltage's before spending the money on a new psu.
November 16, 2010 2:40:22 PM

The only slightly abnormal reading in your voltage is the +12v rail which is on the edge of the tolerance rate, others are ok.

I would suggest you to RMA the PSU and get a new one, but I do not think it is the problem. so better to look elsewhere like the ram and pc temps
November 16, 2010 3:00:04 PM

It can only be the RAM or PSU, I've done extensive tests on RAM which worked properly for 14 hours straight in Memtest (each DIMM seperate), 2 of them gave 1 error in that time. I pulled those out, put in the ones that should work properly, exactly the same problem as I had before. Also used the RAM on a different CPU and Motherboard, same problem (both compatible with the RAM).

It is incredibly weird that the RAM doesn't work on both Motherboards, but what about the readings Memtest gave me which shows that there is no problem with them whatsoever. The only things I can still replace are the DIMMs and the PSU.

- So I've got abnormal readings with my PSU
- I got Memory that isn't working properly on two different Motherboards whilst Memtest confirms them to be oke (this means it could still be a PSU issue).

I see 2 vs 1 here in favor of the broken PSU, I've been too so much hassle with bad components already that I want to do it right this time. No more money down the drain.

I can't get a hold of a DMM, and I wouldn't know how to do that in the first place delluser1. Btw, my Bios says it exceeds the +12V line, but when in Windows using the HWmonitor it shows 11.43V. Seems like a power loss to me. And the voltages are constantly changing in BIOS as well.

The exact problem with my PC is that it freezes up from time to time (regardless of 4gb or 8gb), which kicks me out of games i'm playing or let me wait around 30 seconds or more for it to unfreeze. This also happens whilst roaming the PC, rendering video with rendering software, surfing on the internet (with whatever browser). This happens in random intervals.

Really hope you can point me in the right direction. New DIMMs or new PSU?

Thanks a lot for the help so far, really appreciate it!

edit: In the booklet it says that the 1333mhz Geil memory is compatible but in the 1600mhz list there is no listing whatsoever of any Geil memory. Mine is simply not in the list.... I've got a feeling this is bad?
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 4:14:49 PM

Slickzor said:
edit: In the booklet it says that the 1333mhz Geil memory is compatible but in the 1600mhz list there is no listing whatsoever of any Geil memory. Mine is simply not in the list.... I've got a feeling this is bad?

Hi Slickzor, Just because you memory is not on the QVL of your motherboard does not mean its incompatible or does not work with it. It just means that the motherboard company did not test that particular set of RAM with that particular board.
a c 243 ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 4:18:39 PM

Slickzor said:


I can't get a hold of a DMM, and I wouldn't know how to do that in the first place delluser1.


If you could, we could help with that.

+1 for thechief; Memory not on the list doesn't mean that's it not compatible.
November 16, 2010 4:40:18 PM

Thanks for the confirmation that there is probably no compatibility problem chief and delluser.

I changed the other post (didn't notice I had new responses) where I wrote that the voltage settings of +12V are set to 12+ and the readings give 11.43V in HWMonitor. The voltages in BIOS keep changing too (especially the DRam).

I think the best thing to do is just buy a new power supply and see where it leads me. I'm thinking about the Seasonic S12 II Bronze 520W that of which I was provided a review on page one. Since I'm planning on expanding with a new GPU in the future (which will probably take up a lot more power) I would like some confirmation if this will give enough power with for instance the latest Nvidia graphics card now say a GTX580 (price down in a year equals a new card I would buy in a year)(Antec Power Supply Calculator gives me 474Watts with a GTX 480) Since the power supply I have now isn't performing as it should in the first place I can just send it back with warranty to the manufacturer whom will send me a new one which I can then sell.

Thanks for answering all my questions so far (I've asked quite a lot already)!
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 4:51:14 PM

Quote:
Also used the RAM on a different CPU and Motherboard, same problem (both compatible with the RAM). It is incredibly weird that the RAM doesn't work on both Motherboards.
So you have tried your RAM on a known working motherboard that supports it but it did not work? Are you sure that all the RAM moduals you are using are the exact same model or at least the same specifications? Have you tried using 3 sticks of RAM? OK you can probably forget about all of the above after reading your last two posts, but I'll leave it there anyhow.

And even so, this still does not address you low +12v readings. And I would put my vote on a RMA of your PSU and sell the replacement, buy the SeaSonic S12II 520w to put in your PC for good measure. If you order from Newegg today you may get it before the end of the week.

As for upgrading you GPU, it really depends on how long you are going to wait and how high of performance you are looking for. As they manufacture the newer models with better architecture and shrink the die processes of the GPU's in a year or two will be much more efficient than the high watage ones that are out currently.
November 16, 2010 4:55:23 PM

Thechief73, already deleted that post because I thought it was obvious in my head already and rephrased it in the other post (when I posted the 2 above it gave me an error telling me the topic didn't exist, hence the 2 different posts with the same info). I tried everything with the RAM settings/setups. Nothing works well. All are 100% equal.

I can get the SeaSonic S12II-520Bronze within 2 days from a nearby Dutch vendor for almost the same price (I'm a Dutchy), so that shouldn't be much of a problem. The vendor also has the SeaSonic M12II-620Bronze, is +100 watts for 10 euro extra worth the money?

I'm looking to buy a GTX480 - GTX580 or something equal when the price is cut to around 300 euro or less. You think that Seasonic PSU can handle that?
November 16, 2010 5:53:06 PM

Get a value Kingston ram and save yourself a headache and trust me you won't notice any performance difference!!
as for the PSU, as I mentioned earlier the 12v is not below acceptable rate but not as it should be from a 600w PSU AND it has Nothing to do with your problem and since you have mentioned the ram error then it is most likely the problem!
And memtest negatives (no errors detected) are unreliable.
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 5:57:51 PM

Slickzor said:
I'm looking to buy a GTX480 - GTX580 or something equal when the price is cut to around 300 euro or less. You think that Seasonic PSU can handle that?

Here is a link with detailed information on the power use of those cards and many others: GTX480 - GTX580 The 480 actually needs more power than he newer 580.

This is from Newegg.com product specs. for the GTX480 - Minimum of a 600 Watt power supply. (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 42 Amps.)

This is product specs. for the GTX580 - nvidia website states a minimum 600 watt psu requirement for the GTX 580, the evga website also says that there is a minimum 42 amps on the +12v rail.

With that said the SeaSonic M12II-620Bronze will be your better choice and I Think it will do the job, but I would have to look into it a bit more to be 100% sure.

Ok, from what I have read that your TOTAL system power usage would be MAX of 480w with the GTX 480 and 452w with the GTX 580. So really the SeaSonic S12II-520Bronze would work, but the SeaSonic M12II-620Bronze will give you and the PSu some extra headroom to breath.
November 16, 2010 6:30:21 PM

I think I'll just go for the 620 then, at least I'm sure then. And it's only 10 euro extra which isn't that much really for a 100W extra.

@Kikireeki, I can't just replace the RAM at the store since a compatibility issue is not part of the RMA and I think I only have manufacturers warranty left (already got them for around 9 months). And it's not only about the voltage rates only, it fluctuates badly, which I've never had before thus I'm seeing it as an error (correct me if I'm wrong). In the end, getting a new power supply will only cost me around 30 euro in total (minus the recieved funds from selling the old one), getting new similar RAM will cost me around 150 euro and I don't think i can get a lot of money (if at all) for the Geil ones since they then don't work properly.

By the way Kiki, I see some sort of contradiction in your equation. First you say I should get new RAM because I had errors with memtest, and then you say that memtest is unreliable if it says there are no errors. That would mean the problem is total rubbish and the results shouldn't be regarded as truth in the first place. Am I right?

So I'm actually saving myself the headache since I'll know for sure what it is when I buy a new power supply excluding any other factors from the equation, and save me money (the only thing that CAN be the problem if the power supply wasn't it is my memory). And if I want to upgrade my GPU than at least I have a power supply that can handle it properly.

I can always buy some more RAM if that's truly necessary, it's just an annoying dilemma since some say it is probably a PSU problem and others state it's probably a RAM problem.

Might it come to needing new RAM, what would you guys recommend? I just need powerful RAM for a decent price, for rendering video and gaming. How much GB would I need and at what speeds?
November 16, 2010 7:09:28 PM

Slickzor said:
I think I'll just go for the 620 then, at least I'm sure then. And it's only 10 euro extra which isn't that much really for a 100W extra.


If you are considering a PSU upgrade, go for a 750W trusted brand.


Slickzor said:
By the way Kiki, I see some sort of contradiction in your equation. First you say I should get new RAM because I had errors with memtest, and then you say that memtest is unreliable if it says there are no errors. That would mean the problem is total rubbish and the results shouldn't be regarded as truth in the first place. Am I right?


Memtest is like a (money checking machine) when it detects a fake money then it is absolutely fake, but when the money passes it doesn't necessarily mean a valid money!
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 7:25:57 PM

Slickzor, you really have a good grip on the situation, and if you know that those voltages are fluctuating that badly then I would say follow your gut.

As for Memtest86+, I have seen countless overclockers, PC guru's, and general PC users all recommend to use Memtest to check and see if your memory is functioning properly. I would not understand its popularity and how widely it is recommended without it being a good working/reliable program. I have used it myself and I trust it.

For the PSU, if it is not a problem for you to get the 620w go ahead and do it. Your plan sounds like the best I could come up with and its what I would do in your situation. RMA the defective one and sell the PSU they send you back. Buy the 620w and you will be able to upgrade your GPU at a later time without worries.

As for RAM, if you end up needing to buy it, 4GB will get you by, 6GB is good for gaming and to makes sure your OS and other programs respond quickly. You do not need to go over 6GB unless you want to 3D render, Photoshop, or do alot of video editing.

Speeds of 1333MHz are just fine, but 1600MHz only costs a tiny bit more if not the same(at least in the US) so go for the 1600MHz, any faster you may run into issues where you'll need to mess with settings in the BIOS, and faster speeds than that are really not nessasary as they do may only give a few % increase in performance if any, and that will not be visible in the real world only in benchmarks.

For CAS timmings anywhere from CAS7-CAS9 are good and again the differnce between them are probably not noticable to humans only benchmark software, that said if you can find CAS7 RAM go for that before CAS8 or CAS9, the prices should be them same or very close to each other(they are here). One other thing I would offer as advice is look at the RAM voltages, 1.5v is good because that means the RAM can run at that speed with less power and stress on the memory, but its more rare than 1.65v RAM. 1.65v is the normal for DDR3 tripple channel and there is nothing wrong with using that either and is usally the standard, its just that that is the highest recommended voltage from Intel for RAM on i7's, so I just feel its better for your PC to go with 1.5v.

Brands that are Ok, check you QVL(Qualified Vendor List) for your motherboard first. Kingston, G-Skill, Corsair, Crucial, OCZ are all good brands to consider.
November 16, 2010 7:58:18 PM

@Kikiriki, you do know that i've let the test run for 30 times. That means 30 times the same packages have come through, hence the 14 hours. If there would be fake 'money' come through than it would have probably noticed it. I'm sorry but i trust memtest and i'm going with TheChief. Thanks for the new insight on Memtest though, it is a nice metaphor ;) .

I'm just going to do that then Chief, I'll order the 620 tomorrow and install it asap I'll let you know if it works. Oh btw one more question. I can get the Corsair TX750W for another 6 euro extra. Is this truly overkill or is it a better choice, it gets great reviews as well. please let me know :) .

Btw, I DO render video's and photoshop for school and later for work. But I think 6gb will do the trick and else i'm just going to buy 6 more when I've got more money in a year or so. For now it's just that I want my PC to be stable, i'm sick of changing things and using the crap some stupid bastards provided me with (alternate.nl sucks, bad mobo twice, bad GPU, maybe bad memory and had to pay extra to get another bad mobo. (still considering suing them)). I've got myself a trustworthy company with great customer service. I'm just going to buy my stuff there (as I did with my awesome new motherboard an CPU) and i'll be fine.

Thanks a lot for all the information and insights. I got the plan now. Buy the new PSU, if that doesn't solve it then atleast I got a good one for later upgrades. And if it didn't solve my problem, i'll replace the RAM and sue the company that cost me so much more money because of bad products. Thanks again! I'll be back after my PSU is installed and tested!
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 9:03:44 PM

Slickzor said:
Oh btw one more question. I can get the Corsair TX750W for another 6 euro extra. Is this truly overkill or is it a better choice, it gets great reviews as well. please let me know :) .

Ok I read some reviews quick of the TX750w and it seems to be a nice PSU, the only thing that I seen in every review was that there was a larger than normal voltage ripple and signal noise than they see in similar rated/priced products, But to be fair what I read about the Seasonic says close to the same thing. So this one is a call your going to have to make. Buying the 750w is definatly overkill, its almost enough for you to run two GTX480 or GTX580 GPU's in your PC. Buy buying the Seasonic for only a few € cheaper its a hard choice.

Quote:
Btw, I DO render video's and photoshop for school and later for work.

If that is the case then I would recommend you go with the 1600MHz and try to find it with CAS7 just for that little bit extra performance, I acutally have some never used Corsair RAM with those specs I am trying to get rid of.

Sorry it took me so long to reply, I have been reading :) 
November 16, 2010 10:18:06 PM

The only thing that would stop me from buying the Corsair is the fact that it has fewer extra's and that it takes 2-3 days to get send to my home instead of 1 day. The 6 euro aren't that big of a deal for me. But Kiki just said that a 750W would be nice as well. So that's also an extra benefit of the Corsair.

Corsair:

- Takes longer to get send
- Is recommended by someone else too
- Has 130 more watts
- 6 euro more expensive

Sea sonic:

- Takes 1 day to get send to me (I'll have it this week for sure)
- Has 130 less watts
- 6 euro cheaper


Argh why is this so hard xD. If you say that the seasonic 620 will run an I7 950, Asus Rampage III gene, GTX 580 (future card), 8gb 1600mhz pc12800 RAM without a problem then I'm going to buy the Seasonic tomorrow.

Btw, why are you getting rid of the corsairs?

ps. No problem about the late response, mine is late as well... schoolwork -_-.


EDIT: Even after this long topic I really feel the need to say this. I've checked different forums and they say it was either memory or PSU. The readings my Hardware Monitor in the BIOS gives are the following:


BIOS (no fluctuation in these readings):
3.3V Voltage = 3.213V
5V Voltage = 4.950V
12V Voltage = 12.362V

HWmonitor in windows gives different ratings, but I should trust the monitor in my BIOS more according to other people on different websites.

HWmonitor (no fluctuation in these readings):
------------------------ Value --------------- ---Min ------------------------ Max
+3.3V ---------------- 3.34V --------------- 3.34V --------------------- 3.34V
+5V -------------------4.97V --------------- 4.97V --------------------- 4.97V
+12V ----------------11.43V ------------- 11.43V --------------------- 11.43V


CPU Vcore according to HWmonitor (fluctuates constantly):

This afternoon
CPU VCore ---------- 0.96V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.24V
This evening
CPU VCore ---------- 0.94V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.28V
This night
CPU VCore ---------- 0.98V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.18V

This would mean that they are all well within the 5% margin, and even the HWmonitor's data is within the margin. What should indicate my power supply is perfectly fine. The only thing that fluctuates in BIOS and in HWmonitor is DRam Core and Bus Voltage. And in HWmonitor my Vcore fluctuates constantly between different minimum and maximum. The rest stays static at all times. Is all of this instability or absolutely normal? I'm sorry I'm asking this question again but I don't want to waste money on something that doesn't need replacement. There is still the possibility that it's my Memory and I'm not excluding that from the equation even though it SHOULD work fine.

Pfff, I really feel my brain is about to explode with questions and new questions coming in. If only I had a bit more money, then I'd replace them both immediately and be sure what was causing it.

Would really appreciate it if someone could convince me once more what it is. My PSU or Memory. A short explanation will suffice. Thanks a million! Going mental here! :x
a b ) Power supply
November 16, 2010 11:38:37 PM

[EDIT/UPDATE] After reading your last post you put up while I was typing this up, I really dont know what else to do or tell you. I cannot provide anymore help than I already have I am completly as stumped as to what the problem is as you are yourself and trying to diagnose problems I have never expeirenced before and cannot see them in person is EXTREAMLY DIFFICULT.

All I can say is maybe take it to a PC shop, which will probably cost as much as a new PSU anyhow, or try a replacment/substitute PSU that you know works 100% and see if that solves it, and if none of those work I guess try to get your hands on some different RAM sticks to try in your system. If none of those solutions work I am as stumped as you are my friend.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, like I said before your going to have to chose, I dont want to for you. I didnt look at them each that closely, what are the Corsairs extras? If the €6 doesnt matter, then its all up to weather you want to wait 1day or 2-3days and have extra headroom in the watts dept.

I put these specs into the Antec PSU Calc, I think there is a link somewhere in the above posts:

i7-950
High-end desktop - (adds ~50W over normal desktop, IDK why but its extra headroom also)
6 Sticks of DDR3 - (for when you upgrade)
GTX 480 - (has highest power requirments over the GTX 580)
2 HDD's - (just incase you want to upgrade)
1 DVD+/-RW Drive
1 Soundcard
4 USB devices
4 120mm case fans

Total Rec. Watts = 562w (thats w/o capicitor aging)

Electrolytic capacitor aging. When used heavily or over an extended period of time (1+ years) a PSU will slowly lose some of its initial wattage capacity. We recommend you add 20% if you plan to keep your PSU for more than 1 year, or 25-30% for 24/7 usage and 1+ years.

Total Rec. Watts = 665w (with 20% capacitor aging)

So with that said, I am going to say to get the Corsair if your are worried about power, but going by the power use on this link( GTX480 - GTX580 ) I gave you the Seasonic will handel your PC just as well. As the total system power usage of their i7 test machine is 480w for the GTX480 and 452w for the GTX580. This is their Test System Specs.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The reason I am selling my Corsair memory is because I started building this system, but i decided to wait until SandyBridge was released to do my build.

Corsair HX850w (I got this because it was a great deal and cost just slightly more than 600w-650w PSU's at the time. Keeping)
Intel i7-950 (Didnt buy yet)
Asus Rampage III Formula (Didnt buy yet)
Corsair XMS3 3x2GB 1600MHz CAS7 (Bought this on sale and w/Rebate offer)
WD Caviar Black 640GB (Didnt buy yet)
Prolimatech Megahalems CPU Heatsink (Got this few $ off on sale. Keeping)
Sony DVD+/-RW (Already own)
Antec 300 Illusion (Already own)
November 16, 2010 11:52:05 PM

@Thechief, yeah i saw the benchmark PC, it's close to mine. I think i'm going for the Corsair, it gets similar reviews as the Seasonic but the 130W extra is nice to have as a buffer. And the 6 euro extra are just 6 beers over here anyways so I'll manage ;) .

I've read the update. I'm completely stumped as well, for 6 months already xD. Well lesson learned, never buy your stuff from a company you can't physically go to and tell them what's what. I'm going to buy the Corsair or the Seasonic, I'm going to sleep now and will decide tomorrow. I'm leaning towards the corsair because of the extra power and deterioration buffer.

Really appreciated the help you gave me all day! Thanks a lot man!

I'll come back here when I have installed the new power supply. Cheers!

ps. Nice rig you're building there ;) . I7 950 is truly powerful (when it runs properly for a few minutes I can really feel the speed difference with my old core 2 quad q9400 and Gigabyte mobo) and the Asus Rampage III looks and works brilliantly, setup great, looks really clean, BIOS very extensive and easily clockable with the level system. You won't regret it!
November 17, 2010 6:28:10 AM

Slickzor said:
CPU Vcore according to HWmonitor (fluctuates constantly):

This afternoon
CPU VCore ---------- 0.96V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.24V
This evening
CPU VCore ---------- 0.94V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.28V
This night
CPU VCore ---------- 0.98V --------------- 0.94V --------------------- 1.18V

And in HWmonitor my Vcore fluctuates constantly between different minimum and maximum. The rest stays static at all times. Is all of this instability or absolutely normal? I'm sorry I'm asking this question again but I don't want to waste money on something that doesn't need replacement. There is still the possibility that it's my Memory and I'm not excluding that from the equation even though it SHOULD work fine. :x


Pretty normal. the vcore voltage fluctuates constantly according to cpu load. it is a power saving feature, and you can disable it in the Bios.
You can check your CPU specs here: http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=37150&processor=i7...
VID Voltage Range 0.800V-1.375V

And I'm running HWmonitor right now, and I can see the Vcore value playing all the time. (fyi mine is AMD).

November 17, 2010 11:40:11 AM

According to that information my CPU only supports 1066mhz DDR3. But my Motherboard can handle a lot more. Automatic settings put it on 1066mhz in BIOS but i clocked it to 1600mhz (both the same problem with the freezing on both speeds however).

Is it true that I can now only use a maximum 1066mhz memory? Or is 1600mhz fine as well?

My former CPU also had a lower frequency http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=35365 1333mhz FSB.

Is it a problem that I use 1600mhz memory on a CPU that only supports 1066mhz or 1333mhz? Both my motherboards could handle the 1600mhz.
November 17, 2010 12:25:25 PM

It shouldn't be a problem.
but the 1600mhz is usually used for oc, otherwise it is better to be kept at standard freq, especially in your case, just for beating the odds.
November 17, 2010 12:32:25 PM

Ok thanks for that, I'm going to order the power supply now and I wanted to make sure that the CPU worked with my Memory else that would be the problem for sure. Thanks again :) . Going to buy the Corsair TX750W now. Really hope this solves it, and else I'm certain it's my memory. That would actually be sad and hilarious, replaced everything in my computer except for the GPU then xD, well at least I got an up to date computer :) .
a b ) Power supply
November 17, 2010 1:55:30 PM

Slickzor, how well and reliable the RAM is at different speeds depends on your motherboard. Check the supported RAM speeds on your mobo's spects to see the best speed to run. If it says somthing like: Memory Standard - DDR3 2200(O.C.)/2133(O.C.)/2000(O.C.)/1800(O.C.)/1600(O.C.)/1333/1066, your safest bet is to run it at speeds that do not say (OC) by them.
November 24, 2010 5:09:03 PM

1600MHZ is not OC according to my motherboard user guide. And even on 1333 or 1066 it gives the same problemsn.

I'm going to buy the power supply now (finally got some money) and hope for the best, I also checked my RAM usage when the computer froze, it didn't fluctuate one bit (remained constant) so that shouldn't be the problem. Let's just hope this works.
January 21, 2011 4:11:29 PM

Bumping this topic because I've got an update and my problem still isn't solved (hope I can do this and it's not against site policy). I could've made a new topic but then all the information in here would likely to be repeated which in my opinion is a waste.

First of all it wasn't my computer memory as Kikireeki stated, bought new memory and problem persists (Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9).

I'm going to buy a new power supply (Corsair TX750W) now which I still think is causing the problem. If I bought this and got results, I will state it here so others that might have the same (insane) problem as I'm having can benefit from this. In the meantime, if anyone has a (stress-)test I can use to check if my Hard Drive or GPU are oke then I can exclude those from the list of possible causes as well. Thank you :) 
!