MOTHERBOARD BOOT BUTTON CABLE PROBLEMS
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Last response: in Motherboards
Hi, I recently bought a motherboard off newegg (MB ASUS|M4A88T-M LE AMD880G AM3 R), I've managed to successfully connect every required cable to the motherboard but I can't seem to find an appropriate slot/port to place the "power-on button" cable
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There is only one port that has the proper form called COM1, but to no ado it didn't do anything...
Will I need to get a new button with new, fitting cables or is there something I've missed?
Help would be greatly appreciated

There is only one port that has the proper form called COM1, but to no ado it didn't do anything...
Will I need to get a new button with new, fitting cables or is there something I've missed?
Help would be greatly appreciated
More about : motherboard boot button cable problems
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I have an ATX case that came from a compaq that I bought in 2008 or so, I replaced its original motherboard because it wasn't compatible with the phenomx6 that I bought.
Here are all the connectors:
1. CPU chassis fan connectors
2. atx power connectors (4pin)
3.am3 cpu socket
4.ddr3 ram slots
5.serial port connector(COM1)
6.lpt connector
7.IDE connector (26-1pin)
8.clear rtc
9.sata 3gb connectors
10.system panel connectors (20-8 pin)
11.standby LED
12.USB connectors
13.digital audio connectors
14.front panel audio connector
Im guessing the system panel connector is the correct one but the head and the connector don't match at all...
Here are all the connectors:
1. CPU chassis fan connectors
2. atx power connectors (4pin)
3.am3 cpu socket
4.ddr3 ram slots
5.serial port connector(COM1)
6.lpt connector
7.IDE connector (26-1pin)
8.clear rtc
9.sata 3gb connectors
10.system panel connectors (20-8 pin)
11.standby LED
12.USB connectors
13.digital audio connectors
14.front panel audio connector
Im guessing the system panel connector is the correct one but the head and the connector don't match at all...
Picture of connector
http://tinypic.com/r/33jr2o2/7
picture of case connector cables
http://tinypic.com/r/2epmxvm/7
picture of motherboard connectors
http://tinypic.com/r/iohri9/7
http://tinypic.com/r/33jr2o2/7
picture of case connector cables
http://tinypic.com/r/2epmxvm/7
picture of motherboard connectors
http://tinypic.com/r/iohri9/7
You might have to make your own, but it's easy. What motherboard was in that case before? If we could find out the FP wiring, then it would be even easier. If the cable is long enough, you could simply pull out the wires by lifting the retaining tab with a very small blade and insert them back in the correct pin for the new motherboard.
It's the case connector shown at http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=33jr2o2&s=7 that may need to be modified. Is it long enough to reach the motherboard's front panel connector? It looks like it should fit as long as pin 10 doesn't exist on the motherboard. If pin 10 isn't on the motherboard, could you try to connect the cable as is?
Quote:
motherboard's front panel connectorYou mean the System Panel Controller? Yeah it's long enough to fit but the pins don't exactly match up, I will need a detailed walk through on how to modify the connector.
EDIT: I just tried plugging the connector into the system panel controller and I've managed to get it to boot; only problem is that the power light isn't on and it is unresponsive.
Let's start from the base. Does the system work if you power up by temporarily shorting pins 6 and 8?
EDIT: I just looked at the motherboard and the front panel connector doesn't match the drawing that you provided in your original post. Check what pins are used for the power switch and temporarily short them to power up.
EDIT: I just looked at the motherboard and the front panel connector doesn't match the drawing that you provided in your original post. Check what pins are used for the power switch and temporarily short them to power up.
h2whoa said:
I don't have a reset button nor an HDD LED. When I boot it, it is completely unresponsive and the dvd drive LED randomely lights on and off.Below is a "representation" of the System Panel Controller and in what pins it boots.
http://i53.tinypic.com/309o4ds.jpg
Your drawing is a bit confusing as you have pin 1 to the top right instead of the bottom left. Refer to page 1-26 (System panel connector) in the manual. The power switch is on pins 11 and 13; therefore those are the pins to temporarily short.
Ultimately you'll have to trace where each wire goes to the front panel, cut all wires and then create the following connectors:
- Power Switch (2 pins)
- Power LED (2 pins)
- Reset (2 pins)
- IDE LED (2 pins)
- The speaker should already have the standard 4 pin connector (if your case includes a speaker and you want to connect it).
You could probably use http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=15057... for the 2-pin connectors.
Ok, so your saying I should completely take of the plastic top of the power button connector and get some new two pin connectors to form an appropriate head to fit on the motherboard? I'll need to check out Tigerdirect to see if they have any. How do I short pins 11 and 13 and how do I trace the wires, trial and error?
Go to a button, the power one for example, it will have two wires from it,
trace to ends and mark as pwr,
one should be white/black if you look at all the other wires they also have the same, so the common colour is safe to be regarded as the ground wire
identify the pins for pwr+ and pwr gnd
if you find the two pin blocks fine, if not, try to get something like these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CUSTOM-LENGTH-10-pin-2x5-way-...
http://www.trymarket.com/index.php?main_page=product_in...
you can then plug your lines from buttons/lights etc on the mobo's header
Moto
trace to ends and mark as pwr,
one should be white/black if you look at all the other wires they also have the same, so the common colour is safe to be regarded as the ground wire
identify the pins for pwr+ and pwr gnd
if you find the two pin blocks fine, if not, try to get something like these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CUSTOM-LENGTH-10-pin-2x5-way-...
http://www.trymarket.com/index.php?main_page=product_in...
you can then plug your lines from buttons/lights etc on the mobo's header
Moto
h2whoa said:
Ok, so your saying I should completely take of the plastic top of the power button connector and get some new two pin connectors to form an appropriate head to fit on the motherboard? I'll need to check out Tigerdirect to see if they have any. How do I short pins 11 and 13 and how do I trace the wires, trial and error?I doubt TigerDirect carry those connectors, but it will cost you $5 for 10 connectors delivered to your door if you can order from the link that I provided. Several electronics shops might also carry them. As an alternative, I'd consider the kit at Motopsychojdn's second link.
To short pins, use a small screwdriver or a 2-pin connector with both pins already shorted out.
There's no trial and error here. Just follow Motopsychojdn's procedure.
GhislainG said:
I doubt TigerDirect carry those connectors, but it will cost you $5 for 10 connectors delivered to your door if you can order from the link that I provided. Several electronics shops might also carry them. As an alternative, I'd consider the kit at Motopsychojdn's second link.To short pins, use a small screwdriver or a 2-pin connector with both pins already shorted out.
There's no trial and error here. Just follow Motopsychojdn's procedure.
Could I also put the individual connectors with no casing on the motherboard?
h2whoa said:
Ok, I only have one button (no reset) and I have 6 wires coming out of it, each a different color. How do I know which ones are for power, HD activity, and power activity. I'm afraid i might accidentally fry something...Earlier on you provided a diagram that shows how the cable was connected when the system could be powered up. The wires connected to pins 11 and 13 of the motherboard connector are the power switch wires. That takes care of those 2.
You also need to understand that pin 1 on your diagram is top right and pin 2 is bottom right. Therefore the top row (from left to right) of your diagram is 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 and the bottom row is 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2.
I would also presume that your connector matches your original image. Therefore you should find wires on pins 1 and 3 (Disk LED), 2 and 4 (Power LED) and 6 and 8 (Power switch). Is that correct?
h2whoa said:
Could I also put the individual connectors with no casing on the motherboard?If I had to do it myself, I would remove all wires from the connector (after identifying them), drill a small hole for the blocked pin 10 and then split the connector to end up with three 2-pin connectors. Split it at pins 3-4 and 7-8 with a sharp knife. Be careful and make sure that the cut is straigth enough.
h2whoa said:
Sorry, I just realized I drew the diagram with the motherboard upside down. I don't know about the original image, I just found it and posted it because it had the same form as my connector.h2whoa said:
Couldn't I also just split the connector based on the wire pairs (black and red yellow or blue) and plug them in?That would be much more difficult because you can't split it on it's length and you'd probably ruin it. You still lose 4 pins splitting it the other way, but it's much easier and if you're careful you'll end up with 3 connectors.
h2whoa said:
I also have another question: If the remaining pins are for hd activity and power activity (since my connector doesnt have reset and speakers) then why is it that when I initially accidentally put in the power pins, the computer was completely unresponsive (no boot screen)?Best solution
The pwrswitch is a momentary switch, the led/hdd lights are constant power so I think overloading
to bumpstart the pc, you must only short the pwr pin with a ground pin, no others
(ok,technically you could short all the ground pins with the pwr, but thats pedantic)
connector-wise I think the http://www.trymarket.com/index.php?main_page=product_in... is your best option, you just need to correctly identify the front panel lines and extend them to the correct mobo header pins,
and yes, if removal of some plastic plate is required to id the line then removal it is, if you trace it from the back of the button you KNOW is the power button, then those lines ARE your pwr lines, only way to be sure as you dont have blocks with id stamping on
Moto
to bumpstart the pc, you must only short the pwr pin with a ground pin, no others
(ok,technically you could short all the ground pins with the pwr, but thats pedantic)
connector-wise I think the http://www.trymarket.com/index.php?main_page=product_in... is your best option, you just need to correctly identify the front panel lines and extend them to the correct mobo header pins,
and yes, if removal of some plastic plate is required to id the line then removal it is, if you trace it from the back of the button you KNOW is the power button, then those lines ARE your pwr lines, only way to be sure as you dont have blocks with id stamping on
Moto
Sorry for the lack of reply, I eventually got a new case that had the appropriate connectors and i tried slicing the plastic connecter from the old case with an industrial cutter which screwed it up. Thanks for the help anyway, but I realized that if I were to successfully connect the motherboard to the case, i would simply end up burning the whole thing due to incredibly tight space and minimal ventilation made by only one fan (the case was a micro
). Even through I solved nothing with that case this was a great learning experience for me.
). Even through I solved nothing with that case this was a great learning experience for me. Related ressources:
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