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No video out on rebuild in new case

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September 18, 2010 1:25:55 PM

I switched all my components from one case to another and added a more powerful PS (630W). Now I get no video output from either the video card (9800GTX) or the Mobo in the new case. The rig starts up with all fans running, hard drive and DVD drive initializing but just no video from the DVI ports. What do you think I did wrong? I checked all the connections and also took out the video card but nothing is working.
Thanks in advance for any help

Here are my specs:
Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower
AMD Phenom X4 9850 / 2.5 GHz
M2N78-LA Viola Mobo NVIDIA GeForce 8200
6 GB DDR2 SDRAM 800 MHz PC2-6400
WD Hard Drive 1 x 750 GB - standard - Serial ATA-300 - 7200 rpm
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX 512 MB GDDR3 SDRAM
Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1800TV Tuner
Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V

More about : video rebuild case

a b B Homebuilt system
September 18, 2010 1:37:08 PM

Have you tryed a different monitor yet? Could be a freak coincidence that the monitor popped at the time you took apart the system for the new PSU.......i know it sounds far fetched, but you would be surprised how often odd stuff like that happens.

good luck, Dead
September 18, 2010 1:48:07 PM

Thanks for the response DeadStick50. I have tried 2 monitors and one HDTV through my DVI. Could static damage to my Mobo have somehow caused this problem? But nothing would start up if it did, right? I grounded myself while installing it, but it makes me wonder. Also, is there are connector that I could have missed? I would think the onboard video should work.
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September 18, 2010 5:02:26 PM

Could it be my new power supply?
a b B Homebuilt system
September 18, 2010 9:43:16 PM

I know it sounds impossible, but check it against a third monitor or TV if you can. If no go then go back and double check ALL your connections. Dont just look at them, but push on them and make sure they are all tightly plugged in. No video from GPU OK, no video from onboard OK, no video from both, I doubt it. Did you manually disable onboard in BIOS??
a b B Homebuilt system
September 18, 2010 10:42:13 PM

You said DVI ports....Did you check the other s like the D-sub?
Wondering too if you could have shorted out something during the transfer. Does anyone know if PCIe and onboard are on the same chip set, NB or SB??
a b B Homebuilt system
September 18, 2010 11:15:24 PM

Re-seat EVERYTHING...pull all power plugs data cables and all...i know it can be a pia but it might find the problem. If you dont have a can of air get some and blow out all the slots and connectors on the MB.

Also check the MB mounts and make sure you didnt end up with something shorting out the just wrong spot that runs the video support. If the new case has those built in dimples for the MB to mount on one of those could be making contact!

I AM NOT ASSUMING YOUR DUMB, I JUST WANT TO HELP YOU CHECK IT ALL OUT!
(sorry but had some people taking me the wrong way on here)

hope this helps, Dead
September 19, 2010 1:27:52 AM

I take no offense, I just want to get this working also, so any helpful suggestion is welcome.
I am in the process of taking it apart and redoing everything, so I hope to find something.
I tried three different power supplies. My new one powers everything fine, my old one (400W) only starts the CPU fan and one side fan, and my friends 600W one did the same (didn't power everything). I don't understand why those other ones are having a hard time.
a b B Homebuilt system
September 19, 2010 2:43:06 AM

"Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W" Ive been reading that antecs had a bad run with the neo ecos lately, so its a good possability you got a bad one......not sure why the other one didnt power up right unless it had a really low amp 12v rail it or something. If you find out that its bad might i suggest that you go with an OCZ 600?...they are killer PSUs?
September 19, 2010 3:30:39 AM

I will have to look into the problems other people have had with these PS. I reset the BIOS (I think) to make sure the onboard video was enabled. Onboard is the default right? It still didn't work unfortunately. I also rebuilt the entire thing, looking for problems. Tomorrow I am going to find my multimeter and test the PS.
a c 122 B Homebuilt system
September 19, 2010 3:56:43 AM

You had a formerly working computer that you transplanted toanew case and added a new PSU to, right?

You only have four possibilities:
You made a mistake or overlooked something.
Defective new PSU.
Defective case.
Something died during the upgrade process.

Work through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence or long single beeps indicate a problem with the memory.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
September 19, 2010 10:10:42 PM

Thanks for the checklist, I am going through it currently. I did test the PS with a voltmeter and all outputs are correct and it jumps fine with the paperclip.
I will let you know what I find after finishing the checklist.
!