snakesoldier said:
Sadly, my old roommate built this machine a few years back and I'm not completely familiar with all the hardware that's in it, and since I can't get it started to look at the information given by Windows, all I can tell you is that it was a high-end gaming computer at the time. It has 2 nVidia 8800GTs, 4GB RAM, an Asus P5N-E SLI motherboard and the PSU is an OCZ Technology GameXstream 700W, which is going to cost me around $100 to replace with an equivalent if I need to.
I took a look at the capacitors and they all look alright to me. The old roommate suggested i try removing the CMOS battery for a bit, which didn't have an effect. I don't have an extra PSU or a tester. Is a tester relatively simple to use and easy to find?
Edit: I did mean case fans, yes. And thanks a lot for the help so far. I appreciate it
Well you will ned at least a decent 600W PSU that can provide enough watts on the 12V rail for the dual GPUs but if you can I would get either a Corsair or a Thermltake PSU. They have some of the best ratings of all PSUs. My 800W BFG PSU died recently and I went and bought a TX850W Corsair PSU. It has undervoltage and overvoltage protection along with a single 12V rail that has massive power going to it. It died in kind of the same way yours did. We had a brown out and my PC turned off and wouldn't turn back on. Put in my new Corsair and it lit up all blue like normal. Strange thing is my wifes PC (one of my old machines) didn't even turn off. It stayed on and the PSU survived.
If the capacitors look fine (you can also test by touching the top) then the mobo is most likely not the problem also adding in that you confirmed they are case fans that wont spin adds to the PSU being dead.
As for testers, they are simple to use and I had one like this at work:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=PSU+test...
You have to unplug the PC from the wall then unplug the 24 pin power connector and the extra 4 pin power connector. Then plug them into the tester (its hard to mess up since they have different shapes) and plug the PSU back into the wall and flip the on/off switch in the back of the PSU (if it has one, which I am pretty sure OCZ does) and look at the screen on the tester. If it beeps once then its fine but I like to give it 5 minutes to make sure. There will be 3 voltages (well 6 but still). +/- 12v, +/- 5V and +/- 3.3V (+/- means positive and negative voltages). You want them to be as close to their voltage as possible. So 12.1V is fine but 12.5V or 11.5V is bad.
One down side to the PSU tester though, it doesn't test the current. So the voltage could be good but the current could be bad. I don't think you need a tester but you can get one if you want to be 100% positive or see if your friend has one.
I still say PSU and I would get this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
But thats just my opinion.