Building PC, need help!

[CaptainCrunch]

Hey guys. I was directed here by google, a guy had a similar problem to mine:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/246965-28-problems-building-computer

I'm having a pretty hard time with my computer. I've installed a few things into it over the last few years and this year was finally my big year to completely customize it and finish my work with it. I'm working with:

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Case - Cooler Master RC-932-KWN3 HAF 932 Black Edition AT
Motherboard - Biostar TA890FXE
CPU - AMD Phenom II Black Edition Multi-Core Processor
Graphics Card - ATI Radeon HD 4870
Power Source - Thermaltake Toughpower XT 650W
Hard Drives - 2 (Western Digital 40GB & Seagate 500GB) The WD uses 4-pin & Ribbon, the Seagate uses SATA.
RAM - I have 2 pieces of RAM, they're SLI 4GB in total.
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I have the motherboard properly grounded and every screw place is filled in. The next step I did was hooking in the front connections (power, reset, etc.). I have to say, the manual for this motherboard wasn't exactly great. I'll admit it's my first time putting in a motherboard, but I was careful to follow instructions from people who have being as I work in the tech field. The last motherboard I had was REALLY outdated for the type of gaming computer I'm trying to develop, so this motherboard has more than a few capabilities that are just mind boggling to me. When the power source, Graphics Card, RAM, and CPU & Heatsink were plugged in and all cables hooked in properly, I turned it on.

Lights flashed for probably .5 seconds and then it would go off. The top fan and the power source fan would spin. I looked back at the motherboard manual for a while for anything helpful on the situation. I discovered something in there that mentioned jumpers. I did what most techs do when they're looking at something new...I experimented. I'll post exactly what the manual stated because it will probably make sense to all of you reading this:

[B]JUSBV1/JUSBV2: Power Source Headers for USB Ports[/B]
[I]Port 1-2 Close:[/I]
JUSBV1: +5V for USB ports at USB1/USB_1394_ESATA1/RJ45USB1.
JUSBV2: +5V for USB ports at F_USB1/F_USB2/F_USB3.
[I]Pin 2-3 Close:[/I]
JUSBV1: +5V STB for USB ports at USB1/USB_1394_ESATA1/RJ45USB1.
JUSBV2: +5V STB for USB ports at F_USB1/F_USB2/F_USB3.

So I changed JUSBV1 from 1-2 closed to 2-3 closed. Lo and behold, I plugged the power back in and clicked the power button~BAM. Computer powered on nicely and all fans were spinning. The little BIOS POST CODE/CPU Temp. indicator lit up and read "d4". I looked up d4 in the book and nothing. If I looked online, I believe other motherboards would have different codes for all sorts of things, but one motherboards d4 meant some type of malfunction. I powered it off for a while, came back later and turned it on again this time to see a different code (I forget, but this code was still not listed in book). I clicked the reset button on the motherboard and now it's code has been staying at "60" or "b0" I guess. In the book 60 means it's initializing NUM-LOCK status. b0 isn't even in the book.

I ran out and got a different keyboard, something more standard, because mine wasn't working or even lighting up. I know my keyboard has drivers to be installed with it (Lycosa Razer keyboard). The mouse is a gaming mouse as well, didn't light up. The screen is blank. No BIOs, nothing. Beeping like all hell. I plugged the new keyboard in and mashed "delete" hoping the BIOs screen would pop up eventually, but it never did. Oddly enough, this is when I realized the heatsink fan wasn't moving and the fan on the side isn't moving as well. I unplugged the fan from the bottom of the motherboard (SYS_FAN1), and plugged it into SYS_FAN2 near the top. It worked. I was concerned about my CPU since I hadn't noticed the heatsink not working and I took it off right away. It was hot, but not scorching. The fan right above the CPU and the other side had been working so I'm hoping it provided some type of ventilation for it. Now I'm nervous to turn it on more than 5 seconds because obviously the CPU works, I don't want to overheat it.

I took out a piece of RAM and the heatsink started turning again. The side fan that wasn't working twitched and when I flicked it....it worked. I just unplugged all my hard drives and was told the keyboard I picked up (USB Keyboard) wouldn't work, I needed a PS/2 keyboard. Also, I don't have a VGA hookup. My graphics card only supports DVI.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening? I can post as much info as you need, I just want to get this together. Please help!

 

[jsc]

Return all the USB jumpers to their original position. You do not need to mess with them until you get your system working.

Then work through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.