G1 Sniper Bios F2

After growing frustrated, I've put off working on my new build (also my first build) for months -- but now I'm back on it. Previously, I posted issues such as needing to press the "ON" button twice (slowly) to get the system to boot up, and problems installing my antivirus software.

Since then, I have wiped my SSD clean with "Parted Magic", and reset my MB to its default settings; however, I still need to press th "ON" button twice (slowly) to get the system to boot up. ( I have not installed Win 7 OS yet.) A previous suggestion was to upgrade the MB bios to Version F2, which is what I'm currently trying to do. . . unsuccessfully. I downloaded the new bios and copied it to a thumb drive and CD, neither of which seem to work. After entering into "Q-Flash" and selecting "Update Bios from Drive," it tells me "No Drive Found" -- whether I try the thumb drive or the CD. Another strange thing, once I enter "Q-Flash" and select "Update Bios from Drive," if I wait for more than about 30 seconds before doing anything, the system completely freezes -- no function keys, ENTER, or DEL does anything when pressed. I have to hold down the "ON" button to shut down.

What am I doing wrong? How DO you "flash" the bios on this MB? Does the need to double press the "ON" button to start the system up say anything to anyone -- is something wrong here? Is upgrading the bios likely to fix this? Do I have a defective MB?

Here is my list of components:

1. motherboard: Gigabyte G1. Sniper (I got it for the updated Marvell 88SE9182 controller that would allow my Vertex 3 to operate at full capacity.)
2. processor: Intel i7-970
3. Main drive (for applications only): OCZ Vertex 3 SSD 120GB
4. Second drive (for storage): WD Caviar Black 1TB
5. Video card: PNY Nvidia Quadro 4000
6. PSU: OCZ ZX Series 1250W
7. RAM: Corsair XMS3 – 12 GB (2 sets of 3x2gb)
8. CPU cooler: Noctua NH-D14
9. DVD: LiteOn iHBS212 12x Blu-ray Writer
10. OS: Windows 7 Professional, 64-bit
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  1. This is probably going to be a long post to get through. There are so many possibilities.

    It's best to start simple and work your way forward and start with a Full Breadboard.

    Find a nice piece of cardboard for the MOBO, and remove the MOBO from its case along with the PSU.

    Using ONLY the following: CPU, MOBO, 1 stick of RAM in the 2nd DIMM slot from the CPU, do NOT connect ANY USB/FT Panel Headers, GPU in top PCIe x16 slot {closest to CPU}, PSU {24/8-pin + GPU PCIe pins}, monitor, and USB 2.0 keyboard {preferably a PS/2}. NO SSD/HDD/ODD - MINIMAL! ** Note my preference is to Breadboard with the Stock HSF and not the Noctua **

    You do not want any metal to MOBO contact:
    Screw -> | Metal Backplate | Plastic Washer | [MOBO] | Plastic Washer | Etc...

    Refer to page 29 of the manual and note the PW+ & PW- locations, short with a screwdriver/paperclip. See -> http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af254/Jaquith/GA_FT_Panel.jpg

    Note the behavior and post how it starts. Theories: Short(s) or Case Power button.

    SSD Firmware:
    Meanwhile, move the SSD to a 'Donor' PC and update the firmware to the latest version and review the 'OCZ Toolbox Guide' -> http://www.ocztechnology.com/ssd_tools/OCZ_Vertex_3,_Vertex_3_Max_IOPS,_Agility_3,_Solid_3,_RevoDrive_3_and_RevoDrive_3_X2/

    Flashing BIOS:
    Flash Drive MUST be: USB 2.0 (not USB 3.0), FAT-32 Formatted with ONLY (1) partition, and shows-up as a HDD.
    Use the Q-Flash procedure - video:
    Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCCId1Mcrw4
    Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlx5GBkiaM0
    Part 3 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EX78S4qyHu0
  2. The few times I have seen a computer take several pushes on power to turn on both times it was the power supply you have another to test?

  3. Get your self a cheap USB Flash Drive. Load the new BIOS on it and it will show up as a drive in the BIOS and should load the BIOS OK.
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