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Need to Build a Multi-Monitor Stock Trading PC

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October 15, 2010 5:58:50 PM

Approximate Purchase Date: Next week or so
Budget Range: $1200-$1800
System Usage from Most to Least Important: Stock Trading, Streaming videos, Surfing web
Parts Not Required: (e.g.: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS): OS
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: no loyalty, using Newegg to find components
Country of Origin: USA
Parts Preferences: AMD chip for value
Overclocking: Maybe some very modest OCing if the configuration lends itself to it.
SLI or Crossfire: No, but maybe 2 graphics cards
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Additional Comments: Needs to be stable and fast. I'm not sure if I should go with 4 cores or 6.

Case and PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W, Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel ATX - $125
Motherboard: ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G - $120
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition - $266
Video Card: PowerColor AX5770 1GBD5-5D Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 CrossFireX Support Eyefinity 5 - $220
Memory (4): Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) $316
Hard Drive (2): Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s $180
Monitor (3) Acer G235HAbd 23'' WideScreen LCD monitor $480
a b C Monitor
October 15, 2010 6:08:10 PM

Actually instead of HD 5770 GPU with that HD 4250 IGP + ATI Surround View function you could run
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
2 x displays via IGP
2 x displays via a Radeon class GPU

since gaming is not on the table why not just hit a HD 5450/4350?

Enable Surround View function in BIOS (from default "Auto")


Also SATA 6GB/s ports u would see awesome gains if u either had

a. SSD of the same interface
b. 2 x SSDs of SATA 3GB/s interface in RAID 0

anything else like mechanical hdds just hit the best GB/$$ SATA 3GB/s hdd ^^

Perhaps just 8GB DDR3 for starters?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I'd also hit the 1055T and a decent air cooler like CM Hyper 212+


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October 15, 2010 6:40:26 PM

Re: Graphics Card: I wanted maximum flexibility so I figured if I could get 5 monitors running from the video card and another from IGP then I would be pretty well set without ever having to add any hardware. I wasn't aware that the IGP would run 2 monitors + surroundview, but if it does then the cedar card seems like a better way to go. If I ever wanted 6 monitors I could just slap another one in, right?

I've heard that for my purposes SSDs aren't worth the money. I was just going with the Sata 6GB motherboard to allow me to upgrade later, and the 6 GB/s HDs are not much more.

I'd thought about going with just 8GB to start, but I was told to get tons of memory.

Why go with the 1055T? If I was going to downgrade I was thinking of the 970 BE because I might be able to unlock a core or two and I'd be getting a higher clock speed, but I'm not entirely sure how the clock speed/# of cores trade-off will effect performance.
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a b C Monitor
October 15, 2010 6:53:32 PM

1. Yes if your mobo has more than 1 x PCIex16 slot then > 4 and beyond is doable
2. 1055T might be a locked multi chip but it clocks rather well and peeps have done some light clocking on stock HSF even just to bump to 3.2-3.3ghz
3. Nah current Denebs unlike Zosma do not have 2 'hidden' cores hehe
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a b C Monitor
October 15, 2010 7:05:07 PM

Well, much depends on the software you are running of course, and it's ability to multi-thread.

I seriously doubt you need more than 8GB. Buy an 8GB kit though, so that you have a manufacturer's guarantee that it will work.

I concur on the SSD for this. Store your OS and programs on a 120GB SSD such as the OCZ Agility 2, and keep a single HDD for data, that's all you will need I think. SSDs were not worthwhile 8 months ago, but much has changed.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

The larger WD drives are faster:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I don't like the EA750 unless you are in a corner. See the PSU guide linked in my sig for further info.

I would be happier with the EA650 combo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

Or even one of the OCZ PSU combos.

You really don't need all that GPU power. A couple dual-DVI 4650s would be overkill really.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...




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October 15, 2010 8:00:46 PM

Maybe I will look into SSDs. I figured it was a bit early to make that leap but its worth considering. Don't they slow way down once they have been filled (because of the way data is deleted)?

How much faster will an SSD be than Short stroking a 2TB Caviar drive? I'm not sure at this point it would be worth the cost.

What is wrong with the 750W PSU? It may be overkill, but its cheaper than the 650W so why not? I read the PSU guide and I didnt see much reason to go with the 650W.

I think I will drop the expensive video card and put a Radeon 5450 or something in there.
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a b C Monitor
October 15, 2010 8:05:06 PM

they do, but new software (TRIM) and better data handling (Sandforce 1200) stretch out that time point. an SSD has an expected lifespan of 3-5 years, by which time you build a new PC anyway
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a b C Monitor
October 16, 2010 12:53:43 AM

If you had looked at the database linked in the guide you would have found the reviews for each PSU.

EA750 review at [H]ard|ocp:
http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article/2009/09/18/antec_...

Page 7
"Each time the 12v rail was loaded directly that 12v rail dove hard by ~450mV. This is easily one of the worst results we have seen from any unit ever, let alone a 750W unit! Additionally, even when we looked at an unloaded 12v rail that was not part of the same pairing of 12v power components the induced change was ~200mV."

If I may translate, if a large load is suddenly placed on this unit it will falter briefly. This is exactly the sort of thing that creates instabilities, and why I have listed it as a rank 3 PSU.

EA650 review:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=...

Conclusion
"the EA650 did very well in the cold tests and fabulously well in the hot tests. In nearly every way I can think of, this new Delta platform is a worthy and improved successor to the older Earthwatts designs."
" ....if the EA650 is any indication at all, Antec has in fact improved their offerings again. Run out and get one if you've been eyeing one, because I'm giving this puppy a 9. Better ripple and noise suppression would have added another half point, but as is it's not too shabby. "

The place to go for SSD stuff is Anandtech:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/2829

Note however that that is a bit old now. Compare that article to the current prices and speeds and you'll see that things have just gotten better and better.
Where an SSD will come in handy for you is load times. Rebooting will always be painless and any program or service you need will be right there.
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October 17, 2010 2:16:30 PM

Here is what I have now:

Case and PSU: Antec TruePower TP750 750W, Antec Nine Black Steel ATX - $210 (I may save $10 by going with the "Storm Scout" case.)
Motherboard: ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 AM3 AMD 880G - $120
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition - $266
Video Card: XFX Radeon 5450 512MB - $45
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 VTXE60G - $145
Hard Drive (1): Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s $90
Monitor (3) Acer G235HAbd 23'' WideScreen LCD monitor $480 (this will probably change)

I don't know what to do about memory. I looked at the QVL for the motherboard and I didn't see any 8GB 2 dimm kits. Can I just get any 8GB 2 dimm kit of DDR1333 off newegg or is that too reckless? Do the memory companies have lists of motherboards their memory is guaranteed to work with?
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a b C Monitor
October 17, 2010 7:47:00 PM

Well, you have to understand that the memory lists kept by board makers are all the same pretty much. They have a drawer full of RAM and they use it to test. They never tell you what RAM failed. They don't mention the long list of RAM they never tested.

My experience is that all the newer processors and boards are very compatible, as long as you look for RAM that doesn't need a lot of juice.

This G.skill kit is nice because it's rated for 1600 CL9 1.5V, but will probably default at 1333 with your setup. That makes it a safe bet to boot. You can then tweak it if you desire to say 1333 CL8 or 7. Good price with the promo code:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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October 17, 2010 9:58:50 PM

Awesome. That pretty much does it I think. Does anybody have any experience with the Antec Nine Hundred Case or the Cooler Master Storm Scout? This is my first build so I'd like a case that makes it easy on me.
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a b C Monitor
October 17, 2010 10:20:30 PM

Well, they are both good cases. I have heard that the CM Storm Scout can be a bit tight to work in but that could be considered a feature since it's a bit more portable.

NZXT Tempest is also in that same range I think but is perhaps the roomiest:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

This would be a very nice deal also:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...
That's a good case and a rank 1 PSU. It's not the best looking PSU but it's very high quality.
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October 17, 2010 11:02:55 PM

I was actually thinking I would go with the Cooler Master HAF 922, but that combo deal is pretty tempting. I think I do want a 750W supply though.
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a b C Monitor
October 17, 2010 11:44:26 PM

I like the ninehundred deal too, and it's not like you will have very long video cards to squeeze in. TP-750 is nice, we have one here in the house on another machine.
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October 18, 2010 7:26:12 PM

Should I bother with a third-party heatsink/fan or is the one with the processor fine? I don't plan to really overclock and unless its really loud noise wont matter much.
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a b C Monitor
October 18, 2010 7:57:17 PM

if you aren't overclocking, the stock fan is fine.
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October 19, 2010 3:07:33 PM

Here is what I have now, which should be close to final (prices include shipping):

Cooler Master HAF 922 $89.99
Antec TruePower TP-750 $125.98
Asus M4A88TD-V $127.86
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T $265.99
G.SKILL Ripjaws 8GB F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL $179.99
OCZ Vertex 2 VTX90G $187.98
WD 1TB Caviar Black $89.99
LG 22X DVD Burner $18.98
XFX Radeon 5450 $45
MS Comfort Curve KB, MS Wheel Optical Mouse $34.96
Logisys SP8000BK 4.1 $39.99
Viewsonic VA2431wm 24" (3) $509.97

I'm wondering if I should switch the memory for the 1333 version of what I have.

I am also considering a cheaper, or larger, storage drive.

Does anybody have any experience with ZipZoomFly? I could save $10 getting my power supply from them.

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October 19, 2010 3:34:43 PM

ScrewySquirrel:

The thing is I want a PSU that will allow me to add a few more drives (maybe to do a SSD Raid or something when that shows benefits) or whatever. Also I want to be able to add a video card. 380W seems too weak for that, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe I should drop down to a 650W or something.
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a b C Monitor
October 19, 2010 4:59:09 PM

hard drives don't use huge amounts of power. a 450 should be more than enough
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October 19, 2010 5:49:44 PM

I'm going to go with this power supply I think:
CoolerMaster Silent Pro 600W. It saves me $60 and it should give me some extra power in case I want to add a power hungry video card in the future.
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a b C Monitor
October 19, 2010 6:14:27 PM

that should be good
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October 19, 2010 6:18:54 PM

Also going to go with that Seagate 1TB Drive. You all have been so much help. Last decision is the memory:

This or this.
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a b C Monitor
October 19, 2010 6:31:08 PM

there isn't much speed difference between the two, I'd suggest the 1333 is fine, but with the promo code, the 1600 is definitely a good deal. Either will do, as there is only $20 difference between them
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October 19, 2010 6:54:13 PM

I'm not sure I totally understand the deal with my motherboard and ram speed. The mobo manual says "When overclocking some AMD CPUs may not support DDR3 1600 or higher frequency DIMMs". And then the chart of compatible memory says DDR3 1600 (O.C.) MHz capability.

I guess I'm confused on what all this means. At first I thought I needed to overclock something to get the benefit of the faster memory, now it looks like getting the faster memory will prevent me from overclocking.

Can I get the faster memory and run it at 1333 if I decide to overclock the processor? Do I have to overclock something to get any speed benefits from the faster memory?
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a b C Monitor
October 19, 2010 7:21:23 PM

ok, what the 1600 (OC) means is it will run DDR3-1600, but you have to manually enter it in the BIOS, just like you were overclocking the memory.

It doesn't mean you actually overclock it, just that you have to manually enter the memory speed and timing.

If that worries you, just get the 1333. there's very little performance difference between the two speeds
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a b C Monitor
October 19, 2010 7:47:03 PM

While the MB BIOS is the place where you control the memory, the memory controller, that is the part of your hardware that interacts with the memory, is built in to the CPU.
So, the CPU is certified for 1333Mhz, anything more is considered overclocking.
The board is capable of supporting a wide range of speeds probably. It can supply stable voltages to the memory, and can tell the CPU to run the memory at xxxxMhz.

Hope that clarifies a bit.

The PSU is a nice find. It has 9 SATA connectors and is modular. It was well reviewed.

I want to caution folks that you must be very careful when dealing with Cooler Master or Thermaltake PSUs. They can and will switch models without changing names... make very sure that ALL the number and names line up with the reviewed unit exactly.
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October 19, 2010 9:40:54 PM

You guys have been incredibly helpful. I'm going to go with the 1333 Memory and save the $40 unless someone on the stock-trading forum objects. That puts my total cost at about $1590, and I'm really happy with the components.
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October 20, 2010 9:21:18 PM

As of now I just need to select a good UPS. Anybody have any suggestions for that? I have no idea what to look for.
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a b C Monitor
October 21, 2010 12:25:25 AM

The better ones have - well, let me find the right article for you.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/284128-28-tomshardwar...

I know that's a lot. The bottom line is that power supplies and UPSs don't always get along, and the best bet is to get a pure sine wave type, but they cost a bit more.

If you don't actually have to rely on it frequently, stepped sine is probably fine.
This one should do it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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!