Tom's Hardware > Forum > Digital Camera > Digital Camera General > 20D & Vivitar 285 Flash
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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Greetings,
Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
trusty Vivitar 285.
Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
Hints, tips?

Thanks in adance.
--
Tom

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com>, teskor@tbaytel.net
says...
>
>Greetings,
> Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
>buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
>trusty Vivitar 285.
> Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
>Hints, tips?
>
>Thanks in adance.
>--
>Tom

I might contact Vivitar, The 283/265 flashes have a reputation for high votage
at the PC contacts, which is bad for some digitals, What has never been clear
with these reports is if this is using the 512volt battery adapter, the voltage
reported was so high this is suspected, the voltage was over 600 volts. I use a
same vintage Metz 45CT1 with my Nikon 995 a lot and I have never had problems.
I would think if you are using AA Alkaline on NIHM I wouldn't worry about it. I
wouldn't use an external battery.

Good luck
Tom

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

I use 285's with my 300D's with no problems...but with this caveat.

The flashgun has the remote sensor (RC-1?) cord attached. This is a cord
that plugs into the sensor socket on the front of the flash (obviously after
you take the sensor off..it's a push fit). The sensor is then pushed into
the socket on the other end of the cord that sits in the hotshoe on the
camera.

Two reasons for this.

1. The trigger voltage at the foot of the flash is much higher than on the
remote cord. (fact, I have tested the voltage).
2. The remote sensor arrangement gives more accurate control over the
exposure when using the guns off camera anyway.

The Canon Digitals are notorius for hideously underexposing with
flash....studio light and even with the dedicated guns. I've had issues with
550EX's, and other brand EOS dedicated units.

It's my experience that even if you have a flash meter that tells you the
exposure is "X", it's really 1-3 stops MORE than that. (OK my meter may be
off a bit as well). I try whenever possible to shoot a test shot or two
first and check the exposure via the histogram.


For more info on vivitar guns and EOS cameras see...

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#vivitar
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos [...] ml#trigger

M


"Thomas & Erin Skoropad" <teskor@tbaytel.net> wrote in message
news:08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com...
> Greetings,
> Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
> buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
> trusty Vivitar 285.
> Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
> Hints, tips?
>
> Thanks in adance.
> --
> Tom

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

tom@nospam.microlightphoto.com (Tom Monego) writes:

> In article <08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com>, teskor@tbaytel.net
> says...
> >
> >Greetings,
> > Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
> >buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
> >trusty Vivitar 285.
> > Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
> >Hints, tips?
> >
> >Thanks in adance.
> >--
> >Tom
>
> I might contact Vivitar, The 283/265 flashes have a reputation for high
> votage at the PC contacts, which is bad for some digitals, What has never
> been clear with these reports is if this is using the 512volt battery
> adapter, the voltage reported was so high this is suspected, the voltage was
> over 600 volts. I use a same vintage Metz 45CT1 with my Nikon 995 a lot and I
> have never had problems. I would think if you are using AA Alkaline on NIHM
> I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't use an external battery.

Note this is true of the older 283/285's, but Vivitar changed the design some
time ago, and the voltage is under 6 volts. If you buy the flash new, you
shouldn't have a problem.

--
Michael Meissner
email: mrmnews@the-meissners.org
http://www.the-meissners.org

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Canongirly wrote:

> It's my experience that even if you have a flash meter that tells you
> the exposure is "X", it's really 1-3 stops MORE than that. (OK my meter
> may be off a bit as well). I try whenever possible to shoot a test shot
> or two first and check the exposure via the histogram.

I would second that. My experience is with the Oly E20 and the Vivitar.
I need two stops more exposure than the Vivitar seems to be calling for.
So experiment with it before a big shoot.

Gary Eickmeier

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Michael Meissner wrote:
>
> tom@nospam.microlightphoto.com (Tom Monego) writes:
>
> > In article <08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com>, teskor@tbaytel.net
> > says...
> > >
> > >Greetings,
> > > Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
> > >buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
> > >trusty Vivitar 285.
> > > Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
> > >Hints, tips?
> > >
> > >Thanks in adance.
> > >--
> > >Tom
> >
> > I might contact Vivitar, The 283/265 flashes have a reputation for high
> > votage at the PC contacts, which is bad for some digitals, What has never
> > been clear with these reports is if this is using the 512volt battery
> > adapter, the voltage reported was so high this is suspected, the voltage was
> > over 600 volts. I use a same vintage Metz 45CT1 with my Nikon 995 a lot and I
> > have never had problems. I would think if you are using AA Alkaline on NIHM
> > I wouldn't worry about it. I wouldn't use an external battery.
>
> Note this is true of the older 283/285's, but Vivitar changed the design some
> time ago, and the voltage is under 6 volts. If you buy the flash new, you
> shouldn't have a problem.
>
....he said he dragged out his old one ...

Colin

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

"Gary Eickmeier" <geickmei@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ax0Ed.206024$Oc.195745@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
>
>
> Canongirly wrote:
>
> > It's my experience that even if you have a flash meter that tells you
> > the exposure is "X", it's really 1-3 stops MORE than that. (OK my meter
> > may be off a bit as well). I try whenever possible to shoot a test shot
> > or two first and check the exposure via the histogram.
>
> I would second that. My experience is with the Oly E20 and the Vivitar.
> I need two stops more exposure than the Vivitar seems to be calling for.
> So experiment with it before a big shoot.
>
> Gary Eickmeier

You might take a look at the page at
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html as a starting point.
There are two versions of the 285 (and I don't remember clearly
how to determine which is which without just measuring the voltage
at the sync contacts). The newer 285HV is fine for digital cameras.
The older one can have according to some, up to 300 volts on the
sync contacts. Do a search for "vivitar 285 sync voltage" or trigger
voltage and see what you can find.

mikey

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:07:22 -0000, "Canongirly" <me@me.com> wrote:

>I use 285's with my 300D's with no problems...but with this caveat.
>
>The flashgun has the remote sensor (RC-1?) cord attached. This is a cord
>that plugs into the sensor socket on the front of the flash (obviously after
>you take the sensor off..it's a push fit). The sensor is then pushed into
>the socket on the other end of the cord that sits in the hotshoe on the
>camera.
>
>Two reasons for this.
>
>1. The trigger voltage at the foot of the flash is much higher than on the
>remote cord. (fact, I have tested the voltage).
>2. The remote sensor arrangement gives more accurate control over the
>exposure when using the guns off camera anyway.
>
>The Canon Digitals are notorius for hideously underexposing with
>flash....studio light and even with the dedicated guns. I've had issues with
>550EX's, and other brand EOS dedicated units.
>
>It's my experience that even if you have a flash meter that tells you the
>exposure is "X", it's really 1-3 stops MORE than that. (OK my meter may be
>off a bit as well). I try whenever possible to shoot a test shot or two
>first and check the exposure via the histogram.
>
>
>For more info on vivitar guns and EOS cameras see...
>
>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#vivitar
>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index2.html#trigger
>
>M
>
>
>"Thomas & Erin Skoropad" <teskor@tbaytel.net> wrote in message
>news:08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com...
>> Greetings,
>> Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
>> buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
>> trusty Vivitar 285.
>> Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
>> Hints, tips?
>>
>> Thanks in adance.
>> --
>> Tom

Thanks to all for the replies.

Checked my 285 today both at the shoe and with the RC-1 cord. Voltages
exactly the same @ 7.65v.
Also searched a little more and came up with this from a review
webiste

"Also, by using a semiconductor switch rather than a mechanical
contact, the flash trigger voltage limit has been raised from around
6v on the 10D (and most other consumer EOS bodies) to 250v (as found
on most of the EOS pro bodies)."

And from Canon's original 20D press release.

" New High Speed Shutter
The EOS 20D has a newly developed shutter with a top speed of 1/8000
sec., user-settable in 1/3 and 1/2 stop increments (in shutter speed
priority AE and manual modes) and a maximum flash synchronization
speed of 1/250 sec. First or second curtain flash sync is possible.
The shutter's APS-C configuration allows a reduction in the size of
the unit, smaller shutter blades with lower inertial mass, and shorter
travel distance. Stronger magnets are used for each shutter curtain,
permitting better control of the blades. A semiconductor switch
replaces the traditional sync contacts, ending scorching and
frictional wear while at the same time increasing the limit for
trigger circuit voltage to 250V. The result of these changes is a more
rugged and reliable shutter unit with substantially improved
performance."

I feel safe using the flash for the time being, and as a backup when I
finally scrounge up enough coin for the 580EX.

Once again thanks to all for the replies.
Tom

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

"Thomas & Erin Skoropad" <teskor@tbaytel.net> wrote in message
news:0m03u095k2a1khuol0m8acon7akqdghlca@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 9 Jan 2005 01:07:22 -0000, "Canongirly" <me@me.com> wrote:
>
>>I use 285's with my 300D's with no problems...but with this caveat.
>>
>>The flashgun has the remote sensor (RC-1?) cord attached. This is a cord
>>that plugs into the sensor socket on the front of the flash (obviously
>>after
>>you take the sensor off..it's a push fit). The sensor is then pushed into
>>the socket on the other end of the cord that sits in the hotshoe on the
>>camera.
>>
>>Two reasons for this.
>>
>>1. The trigger voltage at the foot of the flash is much higher than on the
>>remote cord. (fact, I have tested the voltage).
>>2. The remote sensor arrangement gives more accurate control over the
>>exposure when using the guns off camera anyway.
>>
>>The Canon Digitals are notorius for hideously underexposing with
>>flash....studio light and even with the dedicated guns. I've had issues
>>with
>>550EX's, and other brand EOS dedicated units.
>>
>>It's my experience that even if you have a flash meter that tells you the
>>exposure is "X", it's really 1-3 stops MORE than that. (OK my meter may be
>>off a bit as well). I try whenever possible to shoot a test shot or two
>>first and check the exposure via the histogram.
>>
>>
>>For more info on vivitar guns and EOS cameras see...
>>
>>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
>>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#vivitar
>>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index2.html#trigger
>>
>>M
>>
>>
>>"Thomas & Erin Skoropad" <teskor@tbaytel.net> wrote in message
>>news:08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com...
>>> Greetings,
>>> Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
>>> buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
>>> trusty Vivitar 285.
>>> Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
>>> Hints, tips?
>>>
>>> Thanks in adance.
>>> --
>>> Tom
>
> Thanks to all for the replies.
>
> Checked my 285 today both at the shoe and with the RC-1 cord. Voltages
> exactly the same @ 7.65v.
> Also searched a little more and came up with this from a review
> webiste
>
> "Also, by using a semiconductor switch rather than a mechanical
> contact, the flash trigger voltage limit has been raised from around
> 6v on the 10D (and most other consumer EOS bodies) to 250v (as found
> on most of the EOS pro bodies)."
>
> And from Canon's original 20D press release.
>
> " New High Speed Shutter
> The EOS 20D has a newly developed shutter with a top speed of 1/8000
> sec., user-settable in 1/3 and 1/2 stop increments (in shutter speed
> priority AE and manual modes) and a maximum flash synchronization
> speed of 1/250 sec. First or second curtain flash sync is possible.
> The shutter's APS-C configuration allows a reduction in the size of
> the unit, smaller shutter blades with lower inertial mass, and shorter
> travel distance. Stronger magnets are used for each shutter curtain,
> permitting better control of the blades. A semiconductor switch
> replaces the traditional sync contacts, ending scorching and
> frictional wear while at the same time increasing the limit for
> trigger circuit voltage to 250V. The result of these changes is a more
> rugged and reliable shutter unit with substantially improved
> performance."
>
> I feel safe using the flash for the time being, and as a backup when I
> finally scrounge up enough coin for the 580EX.
>
> Once again thanks to all for the replies.
> Tom

Just pray you don't have one of the 300V 285's

http://photography-on-the.net/foru [...] hp?t=50279

Deep.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

"Tom Monego" <tom@nospam.microlightphoto.com> wrote in message
news:crprfg127h6@enews2.newsguy.com...
> In article <08o0u01e3qos4qe4g0vpd6v9qqbkdrti0o@4ax.com>,
teskor@tbaytel.net
> says...
> >
> >Greetings,
> > Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
> >buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
> >trusty Vivitar 285.
> > Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
> >Hints, tips?
> >
> >Thanks in adance.
> >--
> >Tom
>
> I might contact Vivitar, The 283/265 flashes have a reputation for high
votage
> at the PC contacts, which is bad for some digitals, What has never been
clear
> with these reports is if this is using the 512volt battery adapter, the
voltage
> reported was so high this is suspected, the voltage was over 600 volts. I
use a
> same vintage Metz 45CT1 with my Nikon 995 a lot and I have never had
problems.
> I would think if you are using AA Alkaline on NIHM I wouldn't worry about
it. I
> wouldn't use an external battery.
>
> Good luck
> Tom
>

Not true at all (on not worrying if using AA batteries). My 283 using
alkaline AA
batteries develops 153 volts at the sync terminal...use a Wein Safe Sync
(zener diode
in flash shoe) to make any flash you wish to use with your Canon safe for
the DSLR
circuitry.

George

Reply to george

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Thomas & Erin Skoropad <teskor@tbaytel.net> wrote:
> Greetings,
> Going to do some flash work with my 20D. Still saving up to
> buy a 580EX Speedlight, so in the meantime I've dragged out my old
> trusty Vivitar 285.
> Has anybody had any experience using this flash with the 20D?
> Hints, tips?

The Vivtar flash has a differnet color than Canon flashes. If you choose
flash color balance on the camara, you will see the differnce between
images created using a speedlite and a Vivitar. Others have commented
on the voltage issue.

Andrew

Reply to Andrew
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