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Emachines t6528 startup problems

Last response: in CPUs
January 12, 2011 10:51:18 PM

My t6528 fails to start. I first unplugged the power for a few minutes, pressed the power button and reinstalled power. When I pressed the power button, it tried to boot but during the boot process, everything shut down and the power light just kept blinking. Anyone have a suggestion to my problem? Thanks, Mark
a b à CPUs
January 13, 2011 5:11:10 AM

Most likely Power Supply (Bestec) failure which can cause an overvoltage/overcurrent problem that also takes out the OEM MSI 7207 motherboard with it.

I had a similar problem with a emachines T6420 model that was given to me several years ago.Too bad that I hadn't heard earlier about the widespread problems with those particular power supplies until it was too late.

A question do you get anything on the screen on the booting process?
If so replace the power supply immediately (don't retry booting up again) with a good reliable name brand one with overvoltage/current protection like this one.
You could be very lucky and not have burned out your motherboard if this is the case.

If not then it's likely that the defective power supply also took out your motherboard (burned it out).Here is a trick that I recently learned about those particular emachines models.I had to replace the burned out motherboard but did so with a later AM2+ motherboard that could take later AM3 type CPU's.So in a way it was a nice budget upgrade to that older system and I didn't lose any data or applications off of the hard drive.I did have to reactivate Windows myself though but it passed as genuine.I did previously slave the hard drive to salvage data off of it in case though and burned the data on multiple DVD's.That particular alternative motherboard that I purchased recently has been discontinued at newegg.However there is a newer AM3 type motherboard which should work as an alternative replacement motherboard (you will need a AM3 type CPU too like a inexpensive Athlon II X2 or X3 just for an example and some DDR3 memory).Right now it's out of stock at newegg but TigerDirect has it and also has another AM2+ motherboard which should work too.

See what I did below.

a c 172 à CPUs
January 13, 2011 7:12:33 AM

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Here's where you would test the second video card.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.