AMD Phenom II X4 945 running at 803.7mhz?!
Last response: in CPUs
Hey, I just upgraded from an AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ to an AMD Phenom II X4 945 and instead of running at 3.0ghz like its supposed to, it stays at 803.7mhz. I tried going into the bios to change the multiplier and clock speed and it seems to do absolutely nothing... Please help. Specs below.
Zotac Geforce 460gtx 1gb
4gb DDR2 800 RAM
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
ASUS M2N-E Motherboard
Zotac Geforce 460gtx 1gb
4gb DDR2 800 RAM
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit
ASUS M2N-E Motherboard
More about : amd phenom 945 running 803 7mhz
Disable cool and quiet in BIOS.
You got the correct BIOS installed? http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=NFlvt10av3F7ayQ9
You got the correct BIOS installed? http://www.asus.com/product.aspx?P_ID=NFlvt10av3F7ayQ9
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You must have bios
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945FBK4DGI),3.0GHz,125W,rev.C2,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - - - - - - 5001 updated
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945WFK4DGI),3.0GHz,2048KB,95W,rev.C2,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - -5001 updated
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945WFK4DGM),3.0GHz,2048KB,95W,rev.C3,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - 3001 updated
Not sure which one you have. And they all say this after that - "Due to Bios ROM size limitation remove LAN PXE ROM and change Crashfree3 to Crashfree" Hope that makes sense to you. Or follow this link.
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945FBK4DGI),3.0GHz,125W,rev.C2,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - - - - - - 5001 updated
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945WFK4DGI),3.0GHz,2048KB,95W,rev.C2,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - -5001 updated
Phenom IIX4 945 (HDX945WFK4DGM),3.0GHz,2048KB,95W,rev.C3,SocketAM3,Quad-Core - - - - - 3001 updated
Not sure which one you have. And they all say this after that - "Due to Bios ROM size limitation remove LAN PXE ROM and change Crashfree3 to Crashfree" Hope that makes sense to you. Or follow this link.
I don't see it on the list rolli59 or I supplied, which look like the same one of course. I followed the link from you post and at the bottom of all that stuff it has this quote
"When part numbers are not supplied by motherboard manufacturers, we use best guess approach to determine part numbers based on CPU model, frequency and features. In some cases our guess may be incorrect or incomplete. Please always verify part numbers before committing to buying the CPU."
Which means it's not actually compatible. Sorry
"When part numbers are not supplied by motherboard manufacturers, we use best guess approach to determine part numbers based on CPU model, frequency and features. In some cases our guess may be incorrect or incomplete. Please always verify part numbers before committing to buying the CPU."
Which means it's not actually compatible. Sorry
First off - have you downloaded and installed CPU-z and OCCT? GET IT HERE , AND HERE if not. When you run cpu-z it will tell you what your current core voltage is, (should be between 0.875-1.5V). And when you click on occt.exe it will tell you what your core temps are, ( all should be under 62'C). After you wright those numbers down restart your computer and go into bios. I'm not really the best person for this because I've never seen your bios so I can't tell you where exactly to go. But probably on the same page as the multiplyer that you have been messing with you should see vcore and it should match real close to the number from cpu-z you wrote down as core voltage. When you find that arrow to it and hit the plus sign on the keyboard once or twice and it will go up a little. Restart your computer. When it boots up the first thing you want to do is run the OCCT, (put the occt.exe on the desktop so it's easy to find), and check on your core temps. They should be close to but higher than what you got the first time you checked them and should still be less than 62'C. A little over that, like 64 or 65*C shouldn't hurt your processor. If it's much higher than that restart your computer and go back into bios and change it back to original voltage cause that's not gonna work. If it's in the ok range run the cpu-z again to double check your core voltage and it will also tell you your current cpu speed. If it has gone up some and you are still within the acceptable temp range then you will want to restart your comp, go back into bios and do it again. At this point you might can start uping the multplyer or blck like an overclock.
My first recommendation though is to replace that cpu with one that's on the cpu support list that asus put out for your board.
My first recommendation though is to replace that cpu with one that's on the cpu support list that asus put out for your board.
I got a Phenom II x4 965 BE... when I use CPU-z it shows my speed will vary from 800MHz to the full 3.4GHz depending on load. If you want your CPU full power all the time, you need to disable all power and thermal management features in the BIOS. And if you have Vista or Windows 7, get into your advance power settings and set the CPU minimum state to 100%. The AMD default setting like mine will lower your multiplier down to 4x when the system is idle, then ramp it up as soon as I start to use it. If you raise the minimum to 100%, your CPU will run hot and the fan will be louder. Just a heads up.
Intel boards are different cause they can shut off idle cores. AMD cannot, it just lowers the multiplier to save power and heat.
Intel boards are different cause they can shut off idle cores. AMD cannot, it just lowers the multiplier to save power and heat.
Also, if you run the occt stress test on the cpu keep an eye on the processor speed and see if it ramps up to your 3.0GHz and stays that way during the test. While stress testing all power saving software should turn itself off. The only other thing that might slow it down is the thermal throttling so make sure it's turned off also or just keep an eye on it, (also shows up on the occt control panel) and as long as it doesn't reach the default setting of 80*C it shouldn't.
Which is cheaper - a new processor or a new motherboard? OR, which will you get more money for, or get you closer to the new component you want to replace, if you sell it on ebay/amazon or put it in your local paper? Probably be better off replacing the motherboard with something that can use that cpu and all the other components you already have.
Really sucks, I know. But choices are limited and it doesn't work as is so that's the only other thing I can think of.
Which is cheaper - a new processor or a new motherboard? OR, which will you get more money for, or get you closer to the new component you want to replace, if you sell it on ebay/amazon or put it in your local paper? Probably be better off replacing the motherboard with something that can use that cpu and all the other components you already have.
Really sucks, I know. But choices are limited and it doesn't work as is so that's the only other thing I can think of.
metroidmen said:
Well, no it turns out my processor is fubar. for some reason it wont even get past the windows logo no matter what I do. It blue screens. I wnat a friggin refund, why cant newegg let me do this?!Newegg doesn't give refunds on processors, only replacements for defective chips. It's in the disclaimer you were forced to click Agree to before you could submit your order.
"Newegg OEM/Retail CPU Return Policy:
Replacement: OEM and Retail Box CPUs must be returned to Newegg within 30 days for REPLACEMENT.
Retail Boxed CPUs must be serviced by the original manufacturer.
Newegg.com will not cross-ship CPUs.
All defective and DOA CPUs will be replaced upon return to Newegg.com, provided they are not physically damaged and are returned within the timeframe stated above.'
You'll see that along with other information if you simply add a processor to your cart and go to check out.
There are three varieties of the PhII 945 --- each is on the CPU support list for the Asus M2N-E. The processor is not the issue, so ....
Pull the plug and remove the battery for a few minutes. Press the power button to discharge the caps. Re-install the battery and power plug.
NOW ... you have said:
If this is the case, reboot, enter the BIOS and *Load Optimized Defaults*.
NOW ... every BIOS I have ever installed or updated defaults LAN PXE to *disabled* (and I have no reason to think yours would be any different) BUT you may want to page through your BIOS screens to verify this. Look for something like *Onboard LAN Boot ROM* and make sure it is disabled.
Also -- check your *Boot Sequence* settings and HDD setup to verify your specific configuration. You may then *F10* save and exit.
NOW .... I don't know what "change Crashfree3 to Crashfree" means from a practical standpoint. I suspect this may require a 're-flash' of v5001 (and the option to change the 'Crashfree' will be offered to you) BUT I really don't know.
Also --- have you done some stuff you are not telling us about? You have gone from booting into Windows with an 'Unknown Processor' to not booting into Windows at all. This does not happen in a vacuum -- hopefully loading the BIOS defaults will repair this.
Pull the plug and remove the battery for a few minutes. Press the power button to discharge the caps. Re-install the battery and power plug.
NOW ... you have said:
Quote:
.... I have bios version 5001, the most up to dateIf this is the case, reboot, enter the BIOS and *Load Optimized Defaults*.
NOW ... every BIOS I have ever installed or updated defaults LAN PXE to *disabled* (and I have no reason to think yours would be any different) BUT you may want to page through your BIOS screens to verify this. Look for something like *Onboard LAN Boot ROM* and make sure it is disabled.
Also -- check your *Boot Sequence* settings and HDD setup to verify your specific configuration. You may then *F10* save and exit.
NOW .... I don't know what "change Crashfree3 to Crashfree" means from a practical standpoint. I suspect this may require a 're-flash' of v5001 (and the option to change the 'Crashfree' will be offered to you) BUT I really don't know.
Also --- have you done some stuff you are not telling us about? You have gone from booting into Windows with an 'Unknown Processor' to not booting into Windows at all. This does not happen in a vacuum -- hopefully loading the BIOS defaults will repair this.
The Bios and windows tells you what your cpu is set at and the cpu-z and occt tells you what it's running at. But I'm with you on the confused part. I have never seen them be different by more than a couple of MB.
I say send it back to newegg as defective for a replacement. Even if it's an exact replacement, that will rule out it being a defective cpu. I did find A LISTING saying that your processor is both of these - CPU part number --HDX945FBK4DGI
- - - - - - Box part number --HDX945FBGIBOX So it's supposed to be compatible as wisecracker says.
So, that said, it should be compatible. Only problem I have is the board has an AM2 socket and that processor is AM2+ & AM3 compatible. I guess the bios patch fixes a hardware compatibility issue? Anyway, I would return the processor for a replacement. Let them check/fix it or send you a new one. Either way that will rule out the cpu as the culprit.
The only other thing I can think it might be, and I've seen it before, is that you will need to reinstall your operating system. That being a major component will most likely require different drivers for it to work correctly. And those drivers will only install during first installation of windows. If you have a different or spare old hard drive lying around and can install windows on that, or a partition on it, you will find that your processor is now up to speed. Or go on ebay and buy a used one for around $20 and use it. Going back to my first statement that would make sense. Your bios and windows sees it as 3.0GHz because those are the correct settings, but it is only running at 803.7MHz without the correct drivers.
I say send it back to newegg as defective for a replacement. Even if it's an exact replacement, that will rule out it being a defective cpu. I did find A LISTING saying that your processor is both of these - CPU part number --HDX945FBK4DGI
- - - - - - Box part number --HDX945FBGIBOX So it's supposed to be compatible as wisecracker says.
So, that said, it should be compatible. Only problem I have is the board has an AM2 socket and that processor is AM2+ & AM3 compatible. I guess the bios patch fixes a hardware compatibility issue? Anyway, I would return the processor for a replacement. Let them check/fix it or send you a new one. Either way that will rule out the cpu as the culprit.
The only other thing I can think it might be, and I've seen it before, is that you will need to reinstall your operating system. That being a major component will most likely require different drivers for it to work correctly. And those drivers will only install during first installation of windows. If you have a different or spare old hard drive lying around and can install windows on that, or a partition on it, you will find that your processor is now up to speed. Or go on ebay and buy a used one for around $20 and use it. Going back to my first statement that would make sense. Your bios and windows sees it as 3.0GHz because those are the correct settings, but it is only running at 803.7MHz without the correct drivers.
Which Windows are you using? If you are using Vista or Windows 7, go to the control panel. Open POWER OPTIONS, Set it to use HIGH PERFORMANCE or click on the current power scheme "Change Plan Settings". Then click on "Change advanced power settings".
Once this menu opens, click the part that says "Change settings that are currently unavailable". If User Account Control pops up, just hit Continue. Now, go down to Processor Power Manager and click on the + to open the tree. Now click on the + to open the tree for MINIMUM PROCESSOR STATE, then set the value in that box to 100%. Now click on the + to open the tree for MAXIMUM PROCESSOR STATE and also set it to 100%. Then click APPLY, OK, close all the windows, then REBOOT.
Also, set the BIOS to defaults on everything and disable Cool 'n Quiet. Then select save changes and exit. After your computer restarts, and you can get into Windows... now check CPU-z or whatever and tell me what it says. If it still says 800MHz, then the CPU driver is not recognized in Windows and you might need a fresh install, or you have a problem with your board or CPU.
Let me know!
Once this menu opens, click the part that says "Change settings that are currently unavailable". If User Account Control pops up, just hit Continue. Now, go down to Processor Power Manager and click on the + to open the tree. Now click on the + to open the tree for MINIMUM PROCESSOR STATE, then set the value in that box to 100%. Now click on the + to open the tree for MAXIMUM PROCESSOR STATE and also set it to 100%. Then click APPLY, OK, close all the windows, then REBOOT.
Also, set the BIOS to defaults on everything and disable Cool 'n Quiet. Then select save changes and exit. After your computer restarts, and you can get into Windows... now check CPU-z or whatever and tell me what it says. If it still says 800MHz, then the CPU driver is not recognized in Windows and you might need a fresh install, or you have a problem with your board or CPU.
Let me know!
All of that is already done, and still nothing...
I went ahead and ordered an AM3 motherbord with some DDR3 RAM and a 1000W power supply. Considering my processor is AM3 and so is that motherboard there shouldnt be any problems at all. I ordered this one http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite... There shouldnt be any problems right?
I went ahead and ordered an AM3 motherbord with some DDR3 RAM and a 1000W power supply. Considering my processor is AM3 and so is that motherboard there shouldnt be any problems at all. I ordered this one http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite... There shouldnt be any problems right? metroidmen said:
Ugh... I dont have to money to get another harddrive and I have way too much stuff to lose...But you have enough money to get a new board, RAM, and PSU? Are you planning on installing your old hard drive with your new board and not re-install Windows? If you do, you might run into more headaches. You should still do a fresh install on either board you are using since you changed CPUs.
Because when you put your old hard drive into your new system, it will have to search drivers for everything. If your old board's chipset is completely different, sometime it might not even load to windows the first time and will just blue screen and do a memory dump. Or everything will go fine, but the old software and drivers for the board you have now could still be running in the background bogging down your performance and causing errors.
It is always best to do a fresh install with any major hardware changes. Also to point out... unless you are running illegally hacked Windows XP, Vista, 7... after you change too many major components Windows will ask you to re-activate. Sometimes they won't let you and you have to call them and complain.
That is how they protect the copyright... if you take the activated windows from an OEM system and put the hard drive in a completely different system, it will prompt for activation, and you will not be able to activate it because it holds an OEM key. If you installed retail Windows yourself, you CAN call and tell them your old PC died and they will let you activate on different hardware.
Just a heads up.
It is always best to do a fresh install with any major hardware changes. Also to point out... unless you are running illegally hacked Windows XP, Vista, 7... after you change too many major components Windows will ask you to re-activate. Sometimes they won't let you and you have to call them and complain.
That is how they protect the copyright... if you take the activated windows from an OEM system and put the hard drive in a completely different system, it will prompt for activation, and you will not be able to activate it because it holds an OEM key. If you installed retail Windows yourself, you CAN call and tell them your old PC died and they will let you activate on different hardware.
Just a heads up.
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