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NVIDIA GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 chipset and 64bit

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September 18, 2011 1:49:53 PM

Hello,
i have a hp a6763w stock and it was purchased refurb with win7 32 bit. i tried to load win vista64 and it wont fly. first of all it loads from dvd super slow and when i get it to the install portion of the program it takes 12 hours to finish and get to desktop. after which it runs super slow. i have a new hard drive and a new stick of ram; only one; and only one dvd drive plugged in. also key board mouse and moitor. any ideas ? why does it run 32 bit great but 64 slowly. i mean real slow
September 19, 2011 4:41:21 PM

first off.. why are you going from 7 to vista? use 7 64bit the keys are the same you can use a 32 windows 7 key to install win7 64. second you may not have the correct drivers. if it shipped with 32 bit then 64 support may be hard to find. install windows 7 64 then go to nvidia.com and download the nforce 4 6150se chipset drivers for 64. thats what you need. vista takes alot more ram and resources than 7 does so just dont use vista
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a c 216 V Motherboard
September 19, 2011 5:08:38 PM

What does the Windows Experience Index rating for your OS version tell you about each subsystem?

Processor
Memory (RAM)
Graphics
Gaming Graphics
Primary hard disk

It may give you an indication of what you should investigate.
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September 23, 2011 7:50:46 PM

ncc74656 said:
first off.. why are you going from 7 to vista? use 7 64bit the keys are the same you can use a 32 windows 7 key to install win7 64. second you may not have the correct drivers. if it shipped with 32 bit then 64 support may be hard to find. install windows 7 64 then go to nvidia.com and download the nforce 4 6150se chipset drivers for 64. thats what you need. vista takes alot more ram and resources than 7 does so just dont use vista


Thanks to everyone, including brandenjaffri for all the help!

This is actually my pc that brandenjaffri is asking about. It is an hp a6763w, which was originally sold with a phenom ii quad, vista x64 and 7GB RAM.

I bought it from a guy on eBay who said that it had 7GB RAM and the phenom quad cpu, and that he had "upgraded" it to Win 7 Ultimate. But when I got the machine, it had Win 7 Ult 32-bit, which doesn't allow for more than 4GB RAM to be used. I went through a bunch of mess trying to get a partial refund through eBay so that I could buy the proper OS to use the full ram, and when eBay offered me a full refund, I stupidly declined, thinking I would be able to get it running myself.

So I bought a Win 7x64 OS and when I tried to install it, the pc ran slower than frozen molasses! When running the 7 32-bit, it booted to desk in 43sec and shutdown in 11sec.

Now, I'm thinking the mobo is shot because the psu fan wasn't spinning for who knows how long, and the pc just turned off by itself. So I got a new generic psu (logysis 480w) and the pc started working again. But in the past few days, it will power off between 1 and 15 seconds after I press the power button to turn it on. Sometimes it will make it to bios, other times nothing. I have tried different ram, keyboard, mouse, and another psu I have (thermaltake heatpipe 350w).

The weird thing is that when it does 'decide' to turn on, boot bios, and load os, it works like a lightning bolt.

I think this all must be related, and I think it must be a bad mobo. On one of the occasions it has booted the bios, I ran a built-in diagnostic, which tests all hardware (cpu, ram, hdd, etc) and every component passed the test ok.

I hope it's not a bad cpu either.

Any thoughts?
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a c 216 V Motherboard
September 23, 2011 8:09:05 PM

Probably all the crap power supplies that you've tried/used.

Try using a real quality power supply unit that actually supplies a clean DC output. Look at Antec, Corsair, Seasonic or XFX.
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September 23, 2011 8:46:02 PM

i would agree with the above assessment. get a real power supply and go download mem86+, run that to test your ram. if you make 7 passes with out error then its solid. after that go download prime 95 and run that for at least 20 hours. if it passes with out error then you are good hardware wise. if you get errors or crashes then its time to start tracking down what is causing it. perhaps a bad stick of ram, hot spot on the cpu, caps failing on the MB, ect.

on a side note if that 32 win 7 was legit then you could have used its product key instead of buying a new os.

I have seen bad drivers cause such issues of slowness before in an os. make sure the proper sata drivers are installed. its hard with these OEM main boards as they can be very quirky when unsupported os's. given that your chipset is a nvidia however you should be fine.
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September 23, 2011 9:29:44 PM

OK, I'll get a better psu.

Thermaltake is crap?? Or is the wattage the issue? I used a professional subscription wattage calculator to find what I would need @90%cpu load and 10%cap aging. It gave me 376w. But a system isn't fully loaded when you turn on the power is it? It should be able to load to desktop on a underpowered psu right?

I thought that thermaltake was a good company for psu and cases.
I've read reviews that very good power supplies also include Coolermaster's Silent Pro Gold series and PC Power and Cooling's Silencer series...and I like the prices and reviews on the xfx brand. I hope xfx is as quiet as the other two I mentioned. I want the pc to be capable of functioning in a music studio, where silence is vital.

The OS the seller installed was indeed bogus (he actually admitted he downloaded it from megaupload or something...UGH!). I had figured this out when I tried to do as you said and activate the same product key on a x64 install. I downloaded the iso from microsoft (can't remember the site that had the link...), and when I tried to activate it on the phone, I ended up spending 2hrs on the phone with tech support. In the end after they even gave me a new product key, I got a message on the computer saying that Microsoft had blocked that key. And so I bought a new legit OS (got a good deal on a OEM Dell disc with win 7 x64. Haven't installed or activated it to the mobo yet, just in case the mobo is bad).

As far as the drivers for the nvidia chipset, can I install them in the current 32-bit OS before attempting to install the 64-bit os? Or will those be lost as soon as I format the hdd for the new install? Brandenjaffri told me I have to download and put the raw driver files on a usb drive to install during the os installation.

It sure would be nice to be able to install them in the functioning 32-bit os and have them stay functional during a new installation (sort of like flashing firmware to the bios). That's my problem. It may take 6 or more hours to even reach the screen where I can click "load drivers". I know very little about how these components work, so it's probably just wishful thinking...

I'm currently building a new machine to replace the faulty one, but if I can get a psu for the hp and get it working, maybe I could sell it or use it for a backup.
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September 24, 2011 4:24:47 AM

you cant upgrade 32 to 64, it will format and loose the drivers. the 350w is what makes it a crap psu, its at the bottom of the rung in power and could be an issue. having said this i have a 350 antec with PCI-E that i have used as a test PSU for 4 years on hundreds of comps. its more an issue of just having enough parts to swap out for process of elimination.

yes you should install the drivers during the install from a usb drive. http://www.megaupload.com/?d=GMFONDXP thats the drivers for 32 and 64 ide and raid. Toshibas had an issue where windows 7 would not accept acpi drivers when upgrading from vista to 7. i solved this by installing vista 64 and then inserting the 7 disk and selecting upgrade. thus reboots the computer with saved drivers into the windows setup process and allows you to install with out needing to load drivers. this is a very round about way to do things and i have only had to do this on certain Toshiba laptops due to them not having digitally signed drivers for 64. you should simply click on load drivers during the setup and select 64bit ide or raid depending on your setup.

the final option if all else fails is to build a custom windows install drive. i use a jump drive to do this but a DVD works just as well. you build a slip stream iso with your computers hardware drivers as well as any additional software you want the windows setup to install for you. i have mostly done this out of efficiency with how many os reinstalls i do but it would solve your issue of not being able to load drivers in windows setup.
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September 24, 2011 12:49:23 PM

Thanks so much. I just bought a new Cooler Master GX 650Watt psu for my custom pc build, but I'll try it in the hp when it arrives.

Is there a thread in these forums on how to slipstream a custom iso? And where can I find a good iso of vista x64? I just want to restore this pc back to it's original specs if possible.
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October 2, 2011 4:53:37 AM

I received the Cooler Master 650w psu today, and tested it. Still the same problem of no post to bios, but the case fan and cpu fan run. The machine came on as soon as I switched on the psu; I didn't have to press the power button (must be a bios setting). If I try to hold the power button to turn the system "off", the fans rev up to max rpm and I have to physically switch the psu off.

Now what? Bad MOBO? Bad RAM?
Maybe I'll check the cpu to make sure its seated properly and has the thermal compound properly applied. I can't imagine that being an issue because it's the stock cpu as spec'd by hp for this model. But maybe the person who sold the machine to me messed with stuff w/o proper knowledge or care.


Help please!

Thanks!!
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a c 216 V Motherboard
October 2, 2011 5:08:18 AM

If your new Cooler Master power supply's model number is RS-650-ACAA-E3 then you just bought another piece of junk.
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October 2, 2011 5:36:14 AM

ko888 said:
If your new Cooler Master power supply's model number is RS-650-ACAA-E3 then you just bought another piece of junk.


What!?!?!?
Why? It's supposedly Bronze rated with a 5-year warranty! It is the model you stated, but I didn't see "-E3" at the end of it. Manufactured January 2011.

I'm getting sick of this bad psu thing. If I drop good money on a brand new, brand name, decent wattage psu, I expect it to work. What brand and wattage would you recommend? A monster like an Antec or PC Power/Cooling 750w? 850w? 1000+w?
The stock psu in the pc was only 350w. How much headroom should I need?

This is maddening.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have!
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October 2, 2011 5:44:55 AM

How am I supposed to trust online reviews if my new psu is bad? Google shopping review results gave 4.5 out of 5 stars average rating. Newegg had 4 eggs out of 5 average feedback. Can't get much better IMO.

One person on newegg had a DOA, and it just "clicked" and did nothing afterward. One person had it stop after about 3hrs. One had it fail after 10 days. At least my mobo is getting power. If there's anyone who has had a knack for buying crap equipment lately, it's me. I base my buying decisions on overall review ratings. What else is there to go by?

What should I get then?
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October 2, 2011 7:19:59 AM

It is my experience that lower end wattage PSU's such as 250/350/450 are generally lower end in reliability as well. I do have a 350w antec that i have used for 5 or so years as a test PSU for clients comps that is still going strong but its not subjected to regular use.

As for your 650W i dont use coolermaster as i consider them a low end brand but that does not mean they dont make components that work. i would be shocked if you got 2 bad PSU's in a row. I would find a replacement CPU as the issues you are describing could be caused by a bad CPU. take your ram if you can and put it in another comp, test to make sure its not bad. the final step is your MB being bad. If your ram checks out and you put a new cpu in with the same issue then its your MB.

The problem with the issues you are having is you cant just load up PC doc and get things working. you can go out and buy a PCI post card (witch i highly recommend) and that will tell you where your MB is halting on the post sequence and thus you will know what parts to start with. In the end tho its a swap out game, try new ram, try new cpu, try new PSU, try new MB, ect, ect.

The logisys PSU you got is complete crap however. I used logisys once and the PSU cough on fire and became a smoke machine not 4 days after turning the system on. I love there acrylic cases tho, they are nice.

Find a local shop or friend with spare parts and see if you can get things swapped out, or if you feel like it go buy some new parts that you can return. the goal here would be to perhaps spend some money up front but not build a whole new comp or have a bunch of spare useless parts lying around when your done.

I use roswill PSU's in all my personal computers. there 1KW multi rail modular PSU's are only 80 bucks. I have never had an issue short of maybe there fan bearing failing but replacing a PSU fan is a 2 min job and a 1 dollar part so im fine with that.

bottom line is dont go buying yet another PSU thinking this brand new one is bad, I think its a CPU or MB issue. If your CPU fan was not spinning then your heat sink thermal compound got cooked, the CPU got heat damage and possibly the MB did as well directly under the CPU. its a pretty common issue when a CPU does not get any cooling. have you replaced the CPU yet? or checked the thermal compound on the chip? if its an old CPU with original goop, then its not uncommon for there to be a hot spot on the CPU and that would account for the system running for a while and then freezing or shutting down.

as for the coolermaster PSU you bought... from a gamers enthusiasts perspective i would say its a poor PSU due to its single rail, low wattage dedicated to +3 and +5v lines and its low amperage output on its main 12V leads. from a normal human being stand point i would say this PSU is 5 times what your comp will pull with out an after market video card in the range of a GTX580... so do not think you need more power, this PSU should do you just fine so long as it does not kick the bucket.
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October 2, 2011 12:39:42 PM

That explanation was very helpful. I will try the things you said. It may take awhile, but I'll post here as soon as I find out more.

Did you mean to say "...I think its a CPU or MB issue"?
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October 2, 2011 1:35:08 PM

why yes i did, i corrected it now.

be sure to test the parts one at a time and run full diagnostics on each part. dont try to rush it and combine parts in your tests. thats a good way to get confused and muddled results.
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a c 216 V Motherboard
October 2, 2011 5:04:55 PM

alanealane said:
What!?!?!?
Why? It's supposedly Bronze rated with a 5-year warranty! It is the model you stated, but I didn't see "-E3" at the end of it. Manufactured January 2011.

I'm getting sick of this bad psu thing. If I drop good money on a brand new, brand name, decent wattage psu, I expect it to work. What brand and wattage would you recommend? A monster like an Antec or PC Power/Cooling 750w? 850w? 1000+w?
The stock psu in the pc was only 350w. How much headroom should I need?

This is maddening. http://luthiersforum.com/forum/images/smilies/headbangwalluf8.gif

Thanks for any suggestions you may have!

Cooler Master has two 650 Watt model power supplies in the GX Series.

The RS-650-ACAA-E3 which I already mentioned that is the piece of junk and the RS-650-ACAA-D3 which is the one you purchased and should be fine.

Read reviews like the following that have full test data results to back it up:

http://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon...

Google shopping reviews and Newegg Feedback are not product test reviews they are opinion pieces because they have no empirical test data and results to back them up. They're really only good as a guide for getting an idea of failure rate (i.e. product reliability) and compatibility issues.
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April 30, 2012 3:50:21 AM

ncc74656 said:
It is my experience that lower end wattage PSU's such as 250/350/450 are generally lower end in reliability as well. I do have a 350w antec that i have used for 5 or so years as a test PSU for clients comps that is still going strong but its not subjected to regular use.

As for your 650W i dont use coolermaster as i consider them a low end brand but that does not mean they dont make components that work. i would be shocked if you got 2 bad PSU's in a row. I would find a replacement CPU as the issues you are describing could be caused by a bad CPU. take your ram if you can and put it in another comp, test to make sure its not bad. the final step is your MB being bad. If your ram checks out and you put a new cpu in with the same issue then its your MB.

The problem with the issues you are having is you cant just load up PC doc and get things working. you can go out and buy a PCI post card (witch i highly recommend) and that will tell you where your MB is halting on the post sequence and thus you will know what parts to start with. In the end tho its a swap out game, try new ram, try new cpu, try new PSU, try new MB, ect, ect.

The logisys PSU you got is complete crap however. I used logisys once and the PSU cough on fire and became a smoke machine not 4 days after turning the system on. I love there acrylic cases tho, they are nice.

Find a local shop or friend with spare parts and see if you can get things swapped out, or if you feel like it go buy some new parts that you can return. the goal here would be to perhaps spend some money up front but not build a whole new comp or have a bunch of spare useless parts lying around when your done.

I use roswill PSU's in all my personal computers. there 1KW multi rail modular PSU's are only 80 bucks. I have never had an issue short of maybe there fan bearing failing but replacing a PSU fan is a 2 min job and a 1 dollar part so im fine with that.

bottom line is dont go buying yet another PSU thinking this brand new one is bad, I think its a CPU or MB issue. If your CPU fan was not spinning then your heat sink thermal compound got cooked, the CPU got heat damage and possibly the MB did as well directly under the CPU. its a pretty common issue when a CPU does not get any cooling. have you replaced the CPU yet? or checked the thermal compound on the chip? if its an old CPU with original goop, then its not uncommon for there to be a hot spot on the CPU and that would account for the system running for a while and then freezing or shutting down.

as for the coolermaster PSU you bought... from a gamers enthusiasts perspective i would say its a poor PSU due to its single rail, low wattage dedicated to +3 and +5v lines and its low amperage output on its main 12V leads. from a normal human being stand point i would say this PSU is 5 times what your comp will pull with out an after market video card in the range of a GTX580... so do not think you need more power, this PSU should do you just fine so long as it does not kick the bucket.


+3V and +5 has 25 amps and +12 has 52 amps, thats not enough?
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April 30, 2012 11:18:00 AM

I'm sorry for not updating this sooner. I purchased an identical MOBO from eBay which demonstrated the same problem as the original mobo. It would not post, however this one also had about 13 capacitors that were obviously bulging, so I bought high-quality capacitors and replaced the bad ones. It instantly posted and was able to fully function in BIOS and quickly load a new OS (Win Vista 32bit for testing purposes only. I never activated the OS). So I have yet to replace the same capacitors in the original MOBO since they never showed signs of bulging. But maybe that would do the job for the original board. That's the one I still need to get working because I have the COA tag for it. I also ordered replacement OS installation discs from HP, which they sent for "free" and charged me $13 for shipping...LOL. Haven't used them yet. I'll eventually try a repair on the original MOBO's capacitors and post an update here. I hope it works... I've got about $600 now in a machine that I probably couldn't sell for more than $300. Oh well. :lol: 

The power supply mentioned above is now in my newly built AMD hex-core machine and is working great. I ran a program that reads all wattage of the pc components and it reads that the entire system idles at around 138W. I haven't tested the wattage using Prime95 yet.

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