Problems After Switching To A New Case

Okay, so I just switched from an AZZA Solano 1000 to the AZZA Hurrican 2000. But now that I got everything inside the new case. I'm getting problems and can't startup.

The only new thing I added to the computer was a Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler.

The very first time I turned on the computer after getting settled in the new case, I was able to log in for maybe 5 mins or so and then it blue screened. I was able to log in one more time. But now, I can't even get to the log in screen. Three things happen. The rarest thing that happens is I get a blue screen while booting for a split second, you wouldn't know you got it if you blinked. The next most common problem is just a averaged lengthed blue screen during boot up. And the third thing that could happen is that the computer doesn't blue screen, and just powers down; somtimes a split second after hitting the power button.

Sometimes it will say overclock failed, even though I never overclocked, or that windows failed to start, and gives me the option to start a "reccommended" diognostic or to start windows normally. If I choose to run the diognostic the computer just shuts down after loading for a bit.

I made sure the CPU cooler in on correctly, and even took it off, and reseated it, and also looked at the CPU for broken pins, and it looked brand new.

I think it's my power supply perhaps dying or not able to power all the hardware and fans.

I have a 750 watt PSU that is now 2 years and 5 months old. I tried using one of those PSU calculators, and I get a reccommended PSU of around 740, but I'm thinking they're not accurate.

My Specs:

ASUS M4N82 Deluxe Motherboard.
2 Sticks of 2GB DDR2 1066 RAM (4GB Total)
ASUS Xonar DS 7.1 Sound Card
AMD Phenom II X4 945 Deneb @3.0GHz
2 PCI Slot Fans, with LEDs (

And thats about it.

The Hurrican 2000 case has quite a bit of fans as well.

4 230mm fans, 2 with LEDs
4 120mm fans, 2 with LEDs

And the Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler has 1 120mm fan, as well as 1 140mm fan.

Dem Fans.

I'm stumped on what the problem is, so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
8 answers Last reply
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  1. Hmm. It's probably your PSU. Try disconnecting all the extra fans and remove the PCI fans.

    Reason: You turned on the PC, the PSU was just on edge. You opened a game or app, power spiked and the PSU crashed, damaging it's caps/filters/chips or whatever. The more you turn it on, the more it gets damaged until it will pop alltogether. Try running your PC with just motherboard, OS HDD, RAM and CPU. If it works, it's definitely your PSU :D
  2. What is the psu? 750w should be fine.
    If it is of poor quality, it could be failing.
    Possibly the leads are not connected fully.
    But, since it worked before, I doubt it is the psu.

    Take everything out of the case and put it on a piece of cardboard.
    Attach only the minimum required to boot and see how you do.

    Since the case is one of the changes, I suspect you may have a short.
    Or, you connected one of the led leads to the reset button my mistake.
  3. Sorry for taking so long to get back everyone. But I must have entered something into the PSU calculator incorrectly, because I reentered my specs, and now its reccommending PSUs upwards of 900 watts, and minimums of around 870 watts.

    I think I may have forgotten about "Capacitor Aging" variable, which I set to 35% this time, seems about right beings my computer is only not 24/7, but around 15 hours, usually playing demanding games, and as I said before 2 and a half years old.

    So, with that, and the fact that I am using up every 4-pin molex connector, or really even more, beings I have several splitters used as well, leads me to believe that it is the power supply.

    Planning on getting an 1100 watt PSU very soon. Thinking about this one, looks nice, reviews seem pretty solid, and its very cheap.


    I think the PSU worked before because it was only powering half the amount of fans. All the LED and power/reset are plugged in correctly. Theyre in the same way as they were in my other case, which was found out from my Mobo manual.
  4. Fans take a negligible amount of power. I doubt that is the reason.

    Your link does not work.
    Tiger direct sells some cheap(ie: not very good) psu's
    Stick with a quality brand.
    Seasonic, Corsair, PC P&C, XFX, and Antec are good, to name a few.
  5. Sorry, looking at my previous post I forgot to mention that when I did unplug eveything other than necassary hardware the computer booted fine. Plugging the fans and video card back in casue the powering off problem to reappear.

    Don't know why the other link didn't work, this one shoud be good.
  6. godsnightmare21 said:
    Sorry, looking at my previous post I forgot to mention that when I did unplug eveything other than necassary hardware the computer booted fine. Plugging the fans and video card back in casue the powering off problem to reappear.

    Don't know why the other link didn't work, this one shoud be good.

    I still suspect you have a short somewhere.

    Try plugging the fans in, one by one.
    You also could have developed a problem in the video card which is the largest power draw, by far.

    If you conclude that you need a new psu, I think you can do better than apevia. It has only 72a on the 12v rails which is poor for a 1100w psu.
    By comparison, the PC P&C silencer 910w unit has 74.
    Here is a link to a review of the 900 unit from jonnyguru:
    My advice is to stay away. Tigerdirect seems to love to sell junk psu's.

    I would suggest something from Corsair, Seasonic, PC P&C, Antec or XFX. Something like this XFX 750w unit would be more than enough:

    Psu calculators are much more accurate than your ability to give them good inputs. Here is a case where I thing a good old ROT(rule of thumb)
    estimate will work out better. For the normal user, mine says get a quality psu with enough 6 and 8 pin pci-e connectors to plug in your video cards. It turns out that a 650w unit will power the strongest single video card made.
  7. godsnightmare21 said:
    Sorry for taking so long to get back everyone. But I must have entered something into the PSU calculator incorrectly, because I reentered my specs, and now its reccommending PSUs upwards of 900 watts, and minimums of around 870 watts.

    Unless you are powering two large video cards, you do not need that much power. System specs?

    For troubleshooting, you are on the right track, but you need to be more systematic.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  8. I had problems like that on a motherboard that was shorting out. It was in my early days of building PCs. I put all the posts into the case with the reasoning they would support the board as I plugged expansion cards in. I put posts in most of the holes behind the motherboard to do so (as you know there are far more than the nine the motherboard requires for attachment to the case). Anyhow, the posts behind the motherboard that had no matching screwholes in the motherboard were causing shorts where the metal from the post touched metal on the motherboard. I realized this after I remounted the motherboard and everything without using all the extra posts.

    I'm just sharing my once-naive stupidity with you in order to offer you a quick possible solution. It's a mistake I haven't made now in 15 years.
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